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Mounting brackets for driving lights higher up.
I've been looking to add more lighting both to be seen and to see. From everything I know about driving lights, the higher they are mounted, the greater effective distance a given lamp will throw the light. Many on here mount them on the A-arms or fenders, but for my purpose that is too low to the ground. So, I'm going to try mounting them up higher using existing strong attachment points and hopefully avoiding modification of the body panels in any way.
I decided on the Denali DR2 lights. Got them on sale at Twisted Throttle (they're 2015 models). Great build quality and heavier than I expected. I want to mount them higher than the A-arms and thinking about two locations (see pics). Has anyone used either of these locations and if so, what did you use for a bracket? My metal fabrication skills are practically nonexistent.
Denali 1.jpg Denali 2.jpg Denali 3.jpg
Last edited by UtahPete; 12-18-2017 at 12:21 PM.
Reason: Add pictures
2014 RTL Platinum
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I’m looking st your picture on my phone and I can’t tell exactly where you’re wanting to mount them but I’d warn you to pick a spot that won’t interfere with panel removal for oil changes.
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Ooops...!
I think you forgot to upload the pictures. You would need a solid mounting place and hard to find the higher you go. Most cars run them above the bumper or on a light bar.
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I see and understand where you are considering mounting. Is the height on your Spyder where you are thinking about mounting going to cause you any problems with oncoming motorists if the lights are bright enough to be assumed by the motorist to be high beam headlights? What does UT motor vehicle law say about placement of such lights?
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You could mount them directly to those lower deflectors......the ones that are down and behind the windshield. Just pop a couple holes in each one. Then if it doesn't work out there, those are easily replaced....Just not sure how solid those are mounted though
2021 RT Limited
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Originally Posted by JayBros
I see and understand where you are considering mounting. Is the height on your Spyder where you are thinking about mounting going to cause you any problems with oncoming motorists if the lights are bright enough to be assumed by the motorist to be high beam headlights? What does UT motor vehicle law say about placement of such lights?
Good question; I don't have the answer. But, judging from all the jacked-up pickup trucks around here with their super-bright driving and fog lights above where I'm going to be mounting them, I don't think that's an issue!
As far as oncoming drivers go, I will have the ability to turn these off or dim them when I'm in traffic. My big concern is night riding on secondary roads.
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HIGH MOUNTED LIGHTS
Originally Posted by Mazo EMS2
You could mount them directly to those lower deflectors......the ones that are down and behind the windshield. Just pop a couple holes in each one. Then if it doesn't work out there, those are easily replaced....Just not sure how solid those are mounted though
, but My first thought , since you didn't want to make any holes in the OEM pieces was to make a 24 Ga sheet metal that would go between the side mirror and the body ..... But imho attaching a bracket to the mirror " underside " would work better and the holes would not be noticed if you removed them ...the led's would have to lightweight tho ..... Mike
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KISS principle
HI Pete,
A piece of steel strip about 3.5" with 3 holes and 2 spacers about 3/4" dia an 1" long.
Remove the bolts that hold the wind deflectors below the mirrors and install the strip using the 2 outer holes and spacers.
Install the light mount bracket in the center hole, run electrical.
Rinse, Repeat.
Lew L
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
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To thin
Honestly Pete, I think that the pictured metal is thin and will allow the light to vibrate. I would think a minimum of 1/8" steel or 3/16" aluminum would be much better. I think Lowes has the spacers I mentioned, in plastic. They might also have 1" wide strip metal but there has got to be some scrap around.
I used to have an old pancake griddle ( 1/8" aluminum) that I used for many a project.
Lew L
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
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How about a piece of stainless between the headlight bezel, and the upper panel? Stainless is good and strong, and thin too. The proper bends and it might work to use the upper body panel mounting screw just under the mirror. It would be hard to drill and fab with, but it would be thin and strong to slip under body panels......
2021 RT Limited
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Originally Posted by Mazo EMS2
How about a piece of stainless between the headlight bezel, and the upper panel? Stainless is good and strong, and thin too. The proper bends and it might work to use the upper body panel mounting screw just under the mirror. It would be hard to drill and fab with, but it would be thin and strong to slip under body panels......
I've considered that. Aluminum is too thick for the strength I need and zinc-plated steel would need painting. Is there a source for stainless steel stock that you know of? Home Depot is where I've been shopping so far.
2014 RTL Platinum
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Originally Posted by Mazo EMS2
How about a piece of stainless between the headlight bezel, and the upper panel? Stainless is good and strong, and thin too. The proper bends and it might work to use the upper body panel mounting screw just under the mirror. It would be hard to drill and fab with, but it would be thin and strong to slip under body panels......
I'm really ignorant when it comes to metal fabrication. Is this thick enough do you think?
https://www.metals4uonline.com/stain...metal-304-10ga
Or, should I be looking at plate rather than sheet metal? That probably is not something I could bend with hand tools...
https://www.metals4uonline.com/stain...304-2b-3_16ths
Last edited by UtahPete; 12-20-2017 at 10:58 AM.
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METAL BRACKET
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 12-20-2017 at 11:43 AM.
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Mike, are you referring to the sheet or plate?
I agree the price is over the top. Where to buy?
What do you use to 'glue' pieces of sheet metal together?
2014 RTL Platinum
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Very Active Member
BRACKET METAL
Originally Posted by UtahPete
Mike, are you referring to the sheet or plate?
I agree the price is over the top. Where to buy?
What do you use to 'glue' pieces of sheet metal together?
YOU - posted a LINK to both !!! ... the SS is " sheet " ...the other is soooo thick it would called " plate " ........... " Where to buy " - re-read my post !!!!!! ............. " glue " their are dozens of types that work with Metal ....read the labels, and pay attention to the DRYING times ................ Mike
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SS
Originally Posted by UtahPete
I haven't been able to find stainless steel sheet metal at my local Home Depot or Lowe's, which is why I was asking about sourcing it.
SS is not normally used for much .... so if you don't have a Metal Yard business in your area ....On-line is probably your only choice .... I have access to a YARD nearby in a City of only 12,000 people !! .... Why do you want to use Stainless, it's pretty brittle, so bending it may be a problem for you ..... Are you concerned about ...RUST .... if so just use a paint for metal - and after it dries to the touch - put the part on a piece of wood and put it your oven at 325* for about 10min ....... this HARD cures the paint, bakes out any AIR moisture from the metal surface, and makes the paint about twice as abrasion resistant.....This also allows you to have your part in any color you want ...... I'm posting this because someone else may benefit from the info ....... annnnnnnnnnnd ....Merry Christmas ....... Mike
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Active Member
You won't find any SS at one of the big box stores. Your best bet would be to see if there is a metal fab shop somewhere in the area. I used to own an older Airstream and on several occasions needed parts made that were beyond my journeyman metal skills. They have the machines to cut and bend the metal as well as good supplies of stock material to choose from. The prices I paid were pretty reasonable even considering the cost of materials and my time.
I would look at mounting it with a bracket that sits under the lower clear air deflector or look at fabbing something that lets it mount to the inner side of the front fenders. If you mount to the fenders then the lights would follow the bends in the road which may be better for dark rural roads.
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Very Active Member
Give Dallas Thacker in Oakley a call. Tell him Paul DeGrey sent you. Show him what you want and ask him if will make it and how much. If he wont ask him if he has any suitable metal he will sell you.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by UtahPete
I haven't been able to find stainless steel sheet metal at my local Home Depot or Lowe's, which is why I was asking about sourcing it.
Do you have tractor supply stores in your area? they have what your looking for
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A word of caution. If mounting on the A frame bars, don't get wiring to close to the radiators. Installed my lights when the 2014 was new. Two years, and the system had fried. I went to a lighted Bumpskid after that.
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Originally Posted by UtahPete
Dallas is my neighbor and plows my drive. Great guy. I'm in Hurricane at this time, unfortunately, or I'd take that suggestion and run with it. How do you know Dallas?
His wife and my 1st wife were collage roommates at BYU. I have known them since the day they were married. Thais (1st wife) was Janet's Matron of Honor when they were married.
Small world.
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
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I have a simple idea
Hi Pete,
If you haven't solved the mounting problem I have a simple idea:
I'll try to explain-----
With two spacers extending from the two holes that hold the deflectors under the mirrors ------ a 3 and 1/2 inch pc of aluminum strip with 3 holes. One in the center to mount the lights and 2 more ( one near each end ) ------- mounted to the Spyder with longer bolts in the in original holes.
I'll be happy to make the spacers ( they are different lengths) AND the mounting plates. I would leave it to you to get the longer bolts and paint.
Let me know-----
BTW What kind of lights did you get? LED lights?
ANNND: Do the new scoops get in the way of the air deflectors ???
Lew L
Last edited by Lew L; 12-29-2017 at 07:59 PM.
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
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My mounting idea will NOT work with the scoops. Might they fit inside the scoop after cutting a hole in the grill???
Lew L
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
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Very Active Member
ADDED LIGHTS
Originally Posted by UtahPete
Lew, the lights are dual intensity driving lights from Twisted Throttle http://www.twistedthrottle.com/denal...8-mount-chrome
I've attached two new photos showing the area around the mirrors where I'm thinking I'd like to mount the lights. One possibility is the small deflectors directly behind the windshield. The other is below the mirror but as you can see the lower wind deflector has been co-opted by the air scoops.
it and the mirror bottom... Pete, looking at pic#2, I don't have the scoops so ---- How sturdy are they annnnnnnnnnd are they firmly mounted to the Spyder ??? .... If sturdy - why not attach a piece of flat stock to the top of the scoop between it and the mirror bottom ...... sticking out far enough so the lamp could be attached to that ????? ................. Any thing is possible if you at it long enough ....... Mike
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