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Active Member
F3 Limited Sway Bar Advice Needed
I just about have/had myself talked into replacing the sway bar on my F3 Limited but looking at the directions from LaMonster I’m going to need to raise the Sypder 18”. Yikes, how to do that? Confession: I’m not very mechanical! But, any dealer is 1.5 hours away. BTW, I would also replace the horn at the same time.
- Good idea, or bad idea, for a noob? I’ve watched a couple Youtube videos and it doesn’t seem that bad.
- If so, should I buy a cheap motorcycle lift or just car stands? LaMonster says I need 20-22 inches clearance below the ‘bottom of the frame member’.
- Should I buy any special tools to make things any easier?
- In the Bob White Youtube video, he removed the bumpskid. LaMonster’s directions don’t seem to say that. But, do I need to do that to replace the horn anyway?
Thanks for the help!
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Very Active Member
I used a couple of ramps made out of 2x10x8' long and leaned them on my utility trailer, but you could put them on any solid surface that is high enough. I secured them so that they would not move when I drove the Spyder up on them. I also reinforced them half way so that they would not break when I drove the Spyder up on them. Once I had the bike all the way up the ramps I put the parking brake on to hold it in place and chalked the rear tire. It didn't move at all and I had plenty of clearance.
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Very Active Member
Just did mine last week, put it on ramps, jacked it higher and put some blocks under the tires. Got it all loose and then jacked it until the old bar came out, stuck the new bar in and let the jack back down so everything was solid on the ramps and bolted everything up. Piece of cake. No need to remove the bumpskid. There is a cover under the horn but I think the bumpskid is in front of that as well.
Last edited by Highwayman2013; 03-29-2017 at 10:01 PM.
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
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Very Active Member
Hard to get better instructions/pics than Highwayman's, Neil. That's exactly the way I did it as well. Just make sure it's nice and solid while loosening/tightening the bolts, and make sure it can't drop on you for the short time it takes to slide the bar out and put the new one in.
Pete
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by bscrive
I put the parking brake on to hold it in place and chalked the rear tire. It didn't move at all and I had plenty of clearance.
You chalked the rear tire and it didn't move? You must have very obedient tires in Canada, bscrive
Harrington, Australia
2021 RT Limited
Setup for Tall & Big.... 200cm/6'7", 140kg/300lbs, 37"inleg.
HeliBars Handlebars
Brake rubber removed to lower pedal for easier long leg/Size 15 EEEEW boot access.
Ikon (Aussie) shocks all round.
Russell Daylong seat 2” taller than stock (in Sunbrella for Aussie heat & water resistance)
Goodyear Duragrip 165/60 fronts (18psi) - provides extra 1/2” ground clearance.
Kenda Kanine rear.
2021 RT Limited , Brake pedal rubber removed for ease of accessing pedal with size 15 boots. Red
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Active Member
Highwayman2013, that's a great answer. I've got the cinder blocks and I can certainly get the lift. Thanks for the picture...better than words!
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Very Active Member
Be Wary of using cinder blocks especially on their side
Cinder blocks are notoriously weak on their side like that, and can fail catastrophically.
I wouldn't get under them and pull or yank on anything.
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Originally Posted by AeroPilot
Cinder blocks are notoriously weak on their side like that, and can fail catastrophically.
I wouldn't get under them and pull or yank on anything.
I agree with the above. The blocks will not take much side load at all. If you must use blocks turn them up as designed to be used and place a piece of wood on top to cover the holes. Still not really safe they can crumble at any time.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Tombstone Sue
I agree with the above. The blocks will not take much side load at all. If you must use blocks turn them up as designed to be used and place a piece of wood on top to cover the holes. Still not really safe they can crumble at any time.
Well, the job is done. No crumbling or collapsing if you have wood use that. As you can see the jack was also there.
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
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