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HELP fAST
Pirre contact info spyder accessories link or a phone number please.. my hitch shaft came apart don't know how I made it home.
Last edited by MOSESS; 03-09-2017 at 07:19 AM.
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OR......🤔
You can reach him through spydertv.com...
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Very Active Member
Try this for a phone number. Pierre will want to hear about your problems.
450 586 9608
Happy TRAils/NSD
Paul
2012 RT L
AMA 25 years Life Member
TRA
PGR
Rhino Riders Plate #83
Venturers #78
TOI
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Its crazy
I went out for a ride and returned home and I smelled rubber, I found the shaft had sheared off on the right side. Yes I am talking about Pierre, He is a cool guy I am sure he would want to know what happened. But I need a shaft and nut along with the cotter pin asap...
Last edited by MOSESS; 02-19-2017 at 08:04 PM.
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Originally Posted by MOSESS
I went out for a ride and returned home and I smelled rubber, I looked further and found the shaft had sheared off on the right side. Yes I am talking about Pierre, He is a cool guy I am sure he would want to know what happened. But I need a shaft and nut along with the cotter pin asap...
Is that on a F3S?
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Hi there.
Hi Doc this is on a 15 RT-s. When I arrived home and saw the bolt sticking out the left side I very upset but glad I made it home, this could have been a very bad day for me, Has this happen to any one else ...
Last edited by MOSESS; 02-19-2017 at 08:10 PM.
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Originally Posted by MOSESS
Hi Doc this is on a 15 RT-s. When I arrived home and saw the bolt sticking out the left side I very upset but glad I made it home, this could have been a very bad day for me, Has this happen to any one else ...
Wow, that is very rare. Never heard of it happening before. Who installed the hitch?
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okay
Pierre installed it at spyderquest . while he was doing that I was looking at your bag that you had mounted on your rack. Any way I don't know if this is a freak incident but scary all the same. if that shaft had come out while I was riding , You know the rest I don't think I would be here .
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Well, thank God you are OK. Might want to have the dealer check for possible bearing damage. You may be OK, but I would still check. If memory serves me correct, that is torqued at 180 ft. lbs., I think.
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Very Active Member
SHAFT & NUT
Originally Posted by MOSESS
I went out for a ride and returned home and I smelled rubber, I found the shaft had sheared off on the right side. Yes I am talking about Pierre, He is a cool guy I am sure he would want to know what happened. But I need a shaft and nut along with the cotter pin asap...
Try Home Depot , Lowe's or Fastenal ( in that order ) they will have the size threaded rod you need and the LOK-Nuts ,..... you won't find a Bolt that long ........ Mike
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This would be the hitch axle and not the wheel axle correct?. If so it makes me wonder why it broke?
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Very Active Member
Seems simple
Wel that certainly seems simple enough to install.
Greg Kamer
"It's better to be not riding and wishing you were than be riding and wishing you weren't."
USAF, 20 years, retired
Sheriff's Office, 23 years, retired
2018 Can Am Spyder RT-Limited
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Now that I've seen that video of his hitch being installed: I LIKE it!
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Very Active Member
That (no axle removal) installation is very much like the one for the show chrome hitch. That is the reason I wanted one that did not remove the axle. I did see one on this forum where the rod within the axle came out, but the axle rod itself, remained intact. I check mine every so often (visually), just to make sure the nut on the end of the rode is still in place. The problem with the one on the show chrome kit is that they actually suggest using a lock washer on the bolt side and the nut side. When I did that, the lock washer on the head of the bolt split and fell out (because the washer was too close to the size of the hole in the hitch). This allowed the rod to shift towards the nut side and the nut could have loosened. I removed the rod and put a larger, thicker washer at the head of the bolt and have not had any problems since. I do not pull a trailer, but I used it with Doc Humphries rack and it was perfect.
2021 RTL , brake pedal from "Web Boards" chalk white
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Crazy
After talking with Pierre I did an inspection and every thing appears to be fine. He is heading to his vendor, great guy, any way ill test ride the Rt later today .Ill keep you informed as this develops.
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I realized last night we were talking about the inner bolt and not the axle bolt. I don't think they are a hardened bolt. Still hard to believe that it broke. Please disregard my previous post. That was for the axle bolt and nut.
Wonder what a bolt like that would cost? And, all thread is pretty soft. Don't know how it will hold up over time.
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Is there a way to figure out what grade that bolt is, and perhaps find something tougher?
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Is there a way to figure out what grade that bolt is, and perhaps find something tougher?
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Being a mechanic for so many years it has become a habit that if I pull a bolt out I will look at the grade and as near I can remember it had no grade markings.
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If the bolt isn't marked: can you draw any inferences from that?
If you were picking a bolt based upon it's grade: what would you choose?
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it looks like the same bolt as the BRP hitch uses. The one post above mentions broken lock washer which could create a gap and cause the axle to shift until broken.
Just speculation on my part.
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Very Active Member
THE OP PROBLEM
Post #11 answered this problem ............. and because there is little or no stress on ROD it can a grade #5 ,,, 5/8 dia. using Lok-nuts .......... this rod goes thru the OEM axel ..... the AXEL is what's taking the load ..... the rod only holds the Hitch plates firm to the swing arm sides .......... Mike
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So if it's a Grade 5: is there any extra peace of mind afforded, by going to a Grade 8?
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
If the bolt isn't marked: can you draw any inferences from that?
If you were picking a bolt based upon it's grade: what would you choose?
Most all thread is no grade or 1 or 2. I did find this:
http://catalog.interstatethreadedpro...ds-grade-8-atr
If that was a good steel I would go with this if it wasn't too expensive.
One factor to consider is unless you get stainless steel (low grade) since it is not anodized it will rust. Painting with a Rustoleum might prevent that. Here is a link for more info on all thread than you will ever need.
Last edited by Roadster Renovations; 02-20-2017 at 12:12 PM.
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Very Active Member
To me the grade bolt would be important as well as the diameter of the bolt. I have never heard of this happening on a can am hitch. Anyone else? I believe the can am factory hitch is sleeved where the bolt slides through. I can't see it this one is sleeved or has edges where the bolt slides through.
Happy Spyderlovers
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