-
I need brake pads
Where does one purchase brake pads for the Spyder? From BRP? From dealer?
Also, are there any video tutorials out there on changing brake pads ?
Thanks,
Pam
-
Very Active Member
BajaRon, who else??
2017 F3 Limited in Intense Red Pearl
2008 Triumph Rocket (SOLD)
2002 Honda VTX 1800 C ( SOLD)
2014 Triumph Thunderbird Commander
-
Originally Posted by Ex-Rocket
BajaRon, who else??
OH I didn't know he sold them. Yes Ron of course
Thanks
Pam
P.S. I just ordered the pads from Ron. I still need to find a tutorial on how to change them.
Last edited by Pampurrs; 06-18-2016 at 02:44 PM.
-
How about the Green Manual? Should help show how to change the brakes
-
Originally Posted by trikermutha
How about the Green Manual? Should help show how to change the brakes
Yeah, it does and I can probably go with it, but I'm a fan of watching other people do it also. I love videos.
Pam
-
Very Active Member
EBC
AMAZON.... look for EBC brake pads....
cheapest price for the BEST pads...
fronts are a breeze to change... i did my F3 in under an hour...
good luck...
-
SpyderLovers Sponsor
EZ
Front: remove wheel, two bolts hold caliper. Remove caliper. Remove/replace pads. Install caliper. Install wheel. Do other side.
Rear: jack up rear. Two silver bolts hold caliper on. Remove caliper. Remove pads. Use a standard set of needle nose pliers to put in the two divots in the piston. Push hard while turning clockwise. Piston will retract until flush. Put new pads in. Replace caliper. Use lock tite on caliper bolts, front and rear. Remove from jack, start bike, pump brake pedal until firm. Test drive. All set!
Call if you get stuck! Joe
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
-
Originally Posted by cptjam
Front: remove wheel, two bolts hold caliper. Remove caliper. Remove/replace pads. Install caliper. Install wheel. Do other side.
Rear: jack up rear. Two silver bolts hold caliper on. Remove caliper. Remove pads. Use a standard set of needle nose pliers to put in the two divots in the piston. Push hard while turning clockwise. Piston will retract until flush. Put new pads in. Replace caliper. Use lock tite on caliper bolts, front and rear. Remove from jack, start bike, pump brake pedal until firm. Test drive. All set!
Call if you get stuck! Joe
Thanks Joe, you're awesome!
No bleeding brakes?
What color locktite?
Pam
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Pampurrs
Thanks Joe, you're awesome!
No bleeding brakes?
What color locktite?
Pam
Pam:
You only need to bleed the brakes if you open a brake line. This should not be the case if just replacing pads.
Use blue loctite.
Get your pads from Ron; keep it in the family.
2011 RTS (Sold to a very nice lady)
1998 Honda Valkyrie
2006 Mustang GT. Varooooom!
US Navy Veteran
SC Law Enforcement Boat Captain
CNC Machine Service Technician
President: Rolling Thunder SC1
Member: Disabled American Veterans, Rock Hill, SC
Member: American Legion
Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it!
-
Originally Posted by Grandpot
Pam:
You only need to bleed the brakes if you open a brake line. This should not be the case if just replacing pads.
Use blue loctite.
Get your pads from Ron; keep it in the family.
Yup, I ordered from Ron. I didn't realize he sold pads until someone mentioned it.
Thanks for the tips.
Pam
-
Very Active Member
Last edited by BajaRon; 06-18-2016 at 05:37 PM.
-
I got it!
Ok, I ordered the pads from BajaRon, they should be on their way soon...
I found this video on how to change brake pads on a motorcycle, which is really helpful to me. Although the demo is on a two wheel motorcycle and removal of the wheel isn't necessary as it is on the Spyder, the basic concepts are the same. Between this video, my Green Manual, and the tips I received from members here, I should be able to conquer this challenge.
Here's the video....
Pam
-
Best place
Originally Posted by Pampurrs
Where does one purchase brake pads for the Spyder? From BRP? From dealer?
Also, are there any video tutorials out there on changing brake pads ?
Thanks,
Pam
Bajaron
-
Originally Posted by Pampurrs
Where does one purchase brake pads for the Spyder? From BRP? From dealer?
Also, are there any video tutorials out there on changing brake pads ?
Thanks,
Pam
Pam, how many miles do you have on them, were they worn evenly front and rear?
-
Originally Posted by Pampurrs
Yeah, it does and I can probably go with it, but I'm a fan of watching other people do it also. I love videos.
Pam
I Hear ya..That visual does help at times before tackling a project..
-
Originally Posted by Harmony 44
Pam, how many miles do you have on them, were they worn evenly front and rear?
I have a little over 21,000 on the original pads. I haven't been able to closely examine them yet, but I will let you know how evenly they wore after I change them out.
Pam
-
Very Active Member
Here's a pretty good Youtube video that might be of benefit.
Don't forget to squeeze in the caliper pistons before removing the old brake pads. However, before you do that, pop up the seat and look at the rear master cylinder reservoir (that is for the front brakes) to make sure that it's not totally full. Because when you compress the pistons, it will push the fluid back up into the reservoir and you don't want to have brake fluid overflow all over the place. When pushing in the old pads, push them in all of the way flush with the caliper, but DON'T go too far. If your hands are strong enough, you should be able to do it with your hands, but like the Youtube video shows, you can do it with a wedge.
I can't remember, but there are 1 or 2 pins that hold the brake pads in place. Brembo uses a small circlip type thing that pushes into the pins to lock them in place. You first remove that small spring circlip and then unthread the pin(s). I don't remember which, but it is either torx or allen, but make sure you use the correct head to unthread the pins, otherwise you'll make a mess of those pins. They aren't that strong and are not hardened steel.
There is also a steel spring that keeps pressure on the pads and holds them in proper alignment. Just make a mental note about their orientation, because sometimes they can be put in backwards or upside down.
When reassembling, make sure those pins are very clean and smooth. I recommend using some small amount of brake grease on those pins to make sure the pads move freely on them, and on the threads on the pins as well. Also, a tiny amount of that grease can be placed onto the caliper where the pads slide in the grooves. Just make sure that none of the grease gets onto the pads or the disc.
Reassembly is in reverse order with blue loctite recommended for the caliper mounting bolts. Then gently push the brake peddle several times to seat the pads. Once the pads are seated, check the master cylinder reservoir.
HTH
2020 RTL SE6
Previously 2008 GS SM5 and 2014 RT SE6
-
Originally Posted by Pampurrs
I have a little over 21,000 on the original pads. I haven't been able to closely examine them yet, but I will let you know how evenly they wore after I change them out.
Pam
Thanks
-
Very Active Member
Don't forget to apply anti-squeal to the back of the brake pad prior to reassembly. I have a 2013 with Brembo brakes and did not have to remove the calipers, just remove the locking pins.
-
Thanks BajaRon
My brake pads were delivered today. Thanks BajaRon for your usual expeditious service.
Thanks also to everyone who gave me pointers. I'm feeling very confident that I can handle this task.
Gonna install the TricLED fender lights while I have the front wheels off.
Pam
-
Update?
Originally Posted by Pampurrs
My brake pads were delivered today. Thanks BajaRon for your usual expeditious service.
Thanks also to everyone who gave me pointers. I'm feeling very confident that I can handle this task.
Gonna install the TricLED fender lights while I have the front wheels off.
Pam
Hi Pam... How 'bout an update on your brake job. Did it happen yet and how smooth did it go for you?
-Rick
-
Originally Posted by Upstater
Hi Pam... How 'bout an update on your brake job. Did it happen yet and how smooth did it go for you?
-Rick
Hi Rick,
The fronts were fairly easy to do, but the rear caliper bolts were a b*tch to get loose. The assemblers at the BRP factory must love to drench the bolts in industrial strength threadlocker. Even with an impact wrench, they were difficult to get loose. The front caliper bolts were difficult to get out also, but at least they were more accessible.
Other than that, changing the pads was a routine job with no difficulties. I remounted all the calipers using blue Loctite on the bolts, so the job should be a bit easier next time.
Pam
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Pampurrs
Hi Rick,
The fronts were fairly easy to do, but the rear caliper bolts were a b*tch to get loose. The assemblers at the BRP factory must love to drench the bolts in industrial strength threadlocker. Even with an impact wrench, they were difficult to get loose. The front caliper bolts were difficult to get out also, but at least they were more accessible.
Other than that, changing the pads was a routine job with no difficulties. I remounted all the calipers using blue Loctite on the bolts, so the job should be a bit easier next time.
Pam
I know you asked about bleeding which is not necessary as mentioned, BUT, are you 2 years into ownership? If so, brake fluid should be flushed(replaced) every 2 years.... Just food for thought if you weren't.
2015 F3-S , Pure Magnesium Metallic/Steel Black Metallic
-
Originally Posted by hypurone
I know you asked about bleeding which is not necessary as mentioned, BUT, are you 2 years into ownership? If so, brake fluid should be flushed(replaced) every 2 years.... Just food for thought if you weren't.
At the time I replaced the pads, I had just passed one year since purchasing the Spyder, so I expect the need to flush the brake fluid next June. I'll probably be ready for another set of pads by then.
Thanks for the heads up!
Pam
-
Originally Posted by Pampurrs
Hi Rick,
The fronts were fairly easy to do, but the rear caliper bolts were a b*tch to get loose. The assemblers at the BRP factory must love to drench the bolts in industrial strength threadlocker. Even with an impact wrench, they were difficult to get loose. The front caliper bolts were difficult to get out also, but at least they were more accessible.
Other than that, changing the pads was a routine job with no difficulties. I remounted all the calipers using blue Loctite on the bolts, so the job should be a bit easier next time.
Pam
Thanks Pam!!
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|