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9500 service.... $350.00 for an oil change??
Hi friends,
I called my local Can-Am dealership and the service manager said he wanted $350 for the 9500 Servicing .... I asked him what that encompasses and he said basically an oil change and inspection of the entire can Am.
The price sounds ridiculous my question is how do I do an oil change?
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Very Active Member
Four steps:
1. Purchase an oil change kit from your dealer or get the parts from BajaRon.
2. Read the owner's manual section on changing the oil.
3. Watch this video. The job is easier if you mut the Spyder on car ramps. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPeb...ature=youtu.be
4. Change your oil and filter.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Oil change
There are videos on YouTube and there was a video on this forum posted by Shawn Smoak on oil changes. You can order your filters and gaskets from Baja Ron. I use Rotella oil synthetic from Walmart. Total approx. cost is $65.00. Oil change is easy if you are just a little mechanically inclined. My 3,000 mile oil change was over $250.00 and after that I do my own. The oil filter is located under a black panel under the painted panel you need to remove. The first time I looked for the filter I needed to look for about 15 minutes to find it. No panels need to be removed from the left side. I also changed my rear tire recently except for removing and reinstalling the tire on the rim. Total cost a little less than $100.00. Dealer cost was 350.00. I also changed by brake fluid recently for approx. $10.00. Dealer cost was $250.00. There is a lot of info on service out there you just need to decide how far you want to go. Service cost is ridiculous on all motorcycles is my experience and I choose to do as much as I can.
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Active Member
If I do my own scheduled maintenance and an issue arises will BRP still honor the warranty?
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Originally Posted by JayBros
Four steps:
1. Purchase an oil change kit from your dealer or get the parts from BajaRon.
2. Read the owner's manual section on changing the oil.
3. Watch this video. The job is easier if you mut the Spyder on car ramps. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPeb...ature=youtu.be
4. Change your oil and filter.
with everything JayBros said. Block off a good half a day the first time you do it so you can take your time. Shawn explains the process very well in his video.
Car ramps help, as JayBros pointed out. I don't have car ramps, so I just raise the Spyder with my motorcycle lift and put it on jackstands. The extra clearance you gain underneath really makes the job a lot easier.
You can pay yourself the $350 (minus costs) you would have paid the dealership.
Pam
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Very Active Member
Just a reminder there is more to a service then the oil change. If you decide to do it yourself. Your owners manual has a list of everything that needs to be inspected, adjusted, retorqued or cleaned. One item that comes up often is the brake light switch not getting cleaned and the brake lights staying on.
There may be a couple items on the list you may not be able to do yourself. O well do the best you can.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by almosthere
If I do my own scheduled maintenance and an issue arises will BRP still honor the warranty?
Under the Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act the dealer would have to prove the part/parts you used, if they were not BRP parts, were the direct cause of a failure they refused to cover under warranty. Regarding DIY oil changes I don't absolutely know but to cover myself I keep copies of parts receipts and write a memorandum note showing the date, mileage and quantity of oil refill during the oil change. Practically, were such cases degenerate to legal proceedings it depends on how deep your pockets are should you choose to litigate. IMO, on a 1330 engine one would have to be careless or totally unqualified to attempt to try a DIY oil change before he/she would muck it up. YMMV.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Very Active Member
Warranty coverage. As long as you can prove that the service was done with materials that meet or exceed the minimum required. Done within the timeframe outlined in the maintenance schedule. Done in a competent manner. So what does that mean. Keep the receipts for the parts. Keep a log of when it was done, date and mileage. If a filter is installed backwards, it's not BRP's fault.
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Very Active Member
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I have a 2013 RS and it is currently at the dealer getting the 14,000 mile maintenance. Have been taking it in for regular services so to have records they were done. Have heard of people doing their own service and down the road something goes wrong and because there's no record of service it would void the warranty. That's just what I've heard but would rather pay a little now than pay big time later on.
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Originally Posted by kmdowney167
I have a 2013 RS and it is currently at the dealer getting the 14,000 mile maintenance. Have been taking it in for regular services so to have records they were done. Have heard of people doing their own service and down the road something goes wrong and because there's no record of service it would void the warranty. That's just what I've heard but would rather pay a little now than pay big time later on.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I hope you got a quote so your prepared. I think it is the RS 14k Maintenance service that runs about 800.00 to 1,100.00
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Very Active Member
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Originally Posted by akspyderman
$300 is ball park for most dealer services. That is one of the downsides of owning a . Most dealers charge $100 plus per hour just for service time. Add parts and labor and it goes up quickly.
Anyone that has had their Harley serviced by their Harley dealer would not think that $250 to $300 dollars was out of line for a complete service. Goldwings, on the other hand, are much less expensive until you need to have the valves checked and adjusted. That service only happens at about !00,000 miles and then each 100,000 miles after that.
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Very Active Member
Obviously you never owned a TWO Wheel!
AJ
Originally Posted by CanAmIamDavid
Hi friends,
I called my local Can-Am dealership and the service manager said he wanted $350 for the 9500 Servicing .... I asked him what that encompasses and he said basically an oil change and inspection of the entire can Am.
The price sounds ridiculous my question is how do I do an oil change?
2014 RT-S
Akrapovic Exhaust & Cat Bypass
Bajaron Sway Bar w/links / Sena SM-10/Garmin 660
Comfort Seat w Adjustable Backrest
Decals by Purple Harley / Magic Strobe
Kuryakyn Black Widow Pegs Rivco Highway Brackets
Rivco Trunk Mounted Double Flag Holder
FOBO / Spyder Cuff / XM Radio w MC Antenna
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They did quote me $460 so hopefully it stays there.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Originally Posted by Tazzel
I hope you got a quote so your prepared. I think it is the RS 14k Maintenance service that runs about 800.00 to 1,100.00
They did quote me $460 so hopefully it stays there.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Very Active Member
After having changed the oil myself, I have an unpopular view.
$350 ? Damn cheap.
It's about $75 for the parts.
That leaves $275 in labor. Figure it takes about 4 hours. Start to finish. Pulling the bike out, getting the tools, set up, breakdown and putting everything away.
First start and run the bike until it's up to operating temperature.
This also includes, figuring out how to raise the spyder, then raising the spyder and blocking it up safely while you are under it.
Removing a few of the plastic panels to get access.
Put a pan in place.
Remove the oil. Don't forget, you'll need to figure out if you have allen wrench plug or torx head plugs. or Both. Then be sure to have the rigt size allen screws or torx bits available. Remove the oil filter. Drain the oil filter. Don't forget the transmission filter, if you have the SE model.
Be careful not to burn yourself while draining the oil.
Collect all the old oil.
Next replace the oil filter and transmission filter if required. Replace the oil plugs, hopefully they weren't stripped when they were removed. If you had the forethought, you should get hex head oil plugs from dimple products, and use the hex head plugs as replacements
Put in the the new oil. Unblock the spyder and take it down to grade, removing any ramps or blocks used to support it.
Turn on the spyder, let it run until the temperature increases to normal.
Check for leaks, tighten up any connections that are found leaking.
Go into limp mode, because the amount of oil is too low.
After the operating temperature is achieved, top off the oil.
Go for a ride of about 20 minutes with the correct oil level to reset the limp mode back to normal.
Dispose of the old oil and clean the pan.
Dispose the rags you used to clean the pan.
Clean and place all the tools back in their storage position.
Dispose the rags you used to clean the tools.
Clean up the floor under the area where you worked.
Dispose the rags you used to clean the floor.
Replace the ramps where you found them.
For all of this time and effort, you've saved about $250, that's roughly $60 an hour. You were also unable to do anything else during that 4 hours. like mow the lawn or make love to your wife, or even watch Netflix.
Oh, and after you've done this work, you've merely changed your oil.
You have not:
Checked the condition and tightness of the front and rear drive sprocket
Checked the belt tension
Checked belt alignment
Checked condition of tires and brakes.
Did not connect the ECM to buds to review potential performance issues
Did not download any potential firmware updates/performance enhancements.
Did not review any technical bulletins/recalls for product upgrades.
Admittedly, the oil changes on the 998 were too expensive and too often (three times a season) to make sense.
The oil changes for the 1330 are once a season, and I'm way OK paying my dealer for the work. Of course I trust my dealer implicitly.
If you don't trust your dealer, all bets are off.
So $350 for an oil change testing all that stuff.................That's OK by me.
Just my opinion, I could be wrong. And if I am, I'm certain beyond doubt that someone on this forum will let me know about it
Last edited by ThreeWheels; 06-20-2016 at 02:23 AM.
If it ain't broke, don't break it.
IBA #47122
2020 RT Limited Asphalt Grey
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I got to go with ThreeWheels on this.
it's a nice 65 miles to the dealer, then I get to watch the world go by, then
a nice ryde home.
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"Admittedly, the oil changes on the 998 were too expensive and too often (three times a season) to make sense"
I am a newbie and I am looking at buying a 2012 Spyder RT-S SM5, so are you saying I have to change the oil three time a season? What does the manual say?
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by bangthemup
"Admittedly, the oil changes on the 998 were too expensive and too often (three times a season) to make sense"
I am a newbie and I am looking at buying a 2012 Spyder RT-S SM5, so are you saying I have to change the oil three time a season? What does the manual say?
The 2012 998 requires an oil change every 3,000 miles, roughly 3 times a season. Of course if you only drive 3000 miles a year that's only once per season.
The 1330 requires an oil change at 9,300 miles.
If it ain't broke, don't break it.
IBA #47122
2020 RT Limited Asphalt Grey
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Active Member
I thought BRP bumped out the 998 oil changes to 4600?
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I agree
Originally Posted by vided
I got to go with ThreeWheels on this.
it's a nice 65 miles to the dealer, then I get to watch the world go by, then
a nice ryde home.
The ride to Kurtz Motorsports in Watsontown pa is 69 relaxing miles away. There is a great italian restaurant down the road or Rita's italian ice on the way back home. The wife and I make a date of it. You know, just one of our rides. After all , isn't that why we bought it.
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Originally Posted by ThreeWheels
After having changed the oil myself, I have an unpopular view.
$350 ? Damn cheap.
It's about $75 for the parts.
That leaves $275 in labor. Figure it takes about 4 hours. Start to finish. Pulling the bike out, getting the tools, set up, breakdown and putting everything away.
First start and run the bike until it's up to operating temperature.
This also includes, figuring out how to raise the spyder, then raising the spyder and blocking it up safely while you are under it.
Removing a few of the plastic panels to get access.
Put a pan in place.
Remove the oil. Don't forget, you'll need to figure out if you have allen wrench plug or torx head plugs. or Both. Then be sure to have the rigt size allen screws or torx bits available. Remove the oil filter. Drain the oil filter. Don't forget the transmission filter, if you have the SE model.
Be careful not to burn yourself while draining the oil.
Collect all the old oil.
Next replace the oil filter and transmission filter if required. Replace the oil plugs, hopefully they weren't stripped when they were removed. If you had the forethought, you should get hex head oil plugs from dimple products, and use the hex head plugs as replacements
Put in the the new oil. Unblock the spyder and take it down to grade, removing any ramps or blocks used to support it.
Turn on the spyder, let it run until the temperature increases to normal.
Check for leaks, tighten up any connections that are found leaking.
Go into limp mode, because the amount of oil is too low.
After the operating temperature is achieved, top off the oil.
Go for a ride of about 20 minutes with the correct oil level to reset the limp mode back to normal.
Dispose of the old oil and clean the pan.
Dispose the rags you used to clean the pan.
Clean and place all the tools back in their storage position.
Dispose the rags you used to clean the tools.
Clean up the floor under the area where you worked.
Dispose the rags you used to clean the floor.
Replace the ramps where you found them.
For all of this time and effort, you've saved about $250, that's roughly $60 an hour. You were also unable to do anything else during that 4 hours. like mow the lawn or make love to your wife, or even watch Netflix.
Oh, and after you've done this work, you've merely changed your oil.
You have not:
Checked the condition and tightness of the front and rear drive sprocket
Checked the belt tension
Checked belt alignment
Checked condition of tires and brakes.
Did not connect the ECM to buds to review potential performance issues
Did not download any potential firmware updates/performance enhancements.
Did not review any technical bulletins/recalls for product upgrades.
Admittedly, the oil changes on the 998 were too expensive and too often (three times a season) to make sense.
The oil changes for the 1330 are once a season, and I'm way OK paying my dealer for the work. Of course I trust my dealer implicitly.
If you don't trust your dealer, all bets are off.
So $350 for an oil change testing all that stuff.................That's OK by me.
Just my opinion, I could be wrong. And if I am, I'm certain beyond doubt that someone on this forum will let me know about it
I have to agree for all they do it,s not that bad.I do my own as i have been an auto tech for 40 plus years.But remember if you don,t do this often and leave a plug loose or filter not tight this can get exspensive real quick.Plus they know what they are looking for on items that are known to fail.
Bill
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I agree also, it's about 50 miles to the dealer and they give me a loaner to bomb around town. Then you have nice ride home. And with a few different routes of getting there nothing says you have to go right home.
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