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alignment specifications
I'm new to Spyders and have noticed many posts about laser alignment. Does anyone know what adjustments can be made to the spyder? I,m sure toe in is adjustable but caster and camber adjustments are not obvious. What is the correct toe in setting?
When people had laser alignments, do they know what setting was off?
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Originally Posted by saber504
I'm new to Spyders and have noticed many posts about laser alignment. Does anyone know what adjustments can be made to the spyder? I,m sure toe in is adjustable but caster and camber adjustments are not obvious. What is the correct toe in setting?
When people had laser alignments, do they know what setting was off?
Toe is the only adjustable setting. Laser alignment aligns the front wheels to the rear wheel. When the laser targets are set in place you can easily see and measure (toe in or out and how much) exactly where the front tires are pointing.
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What is the correct toe in / out spec, then?
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Originally Posted by asp125
What is the correct toe in / out spec, then?
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That is not a question that can be answered easily. It is dependent on the track width of the Spyder and the distance that your targets are set and other variables.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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I would assume you could clamp a laser level to the rear wheel and point to to a target lets say 10 feet in front of the spyder. Then take measurements to see where the center of the wheel is. Then its a matter of taking measurements where the line crosses the front end to get everything square and extend the lines forward to the target. I could probably figure it out but do not have the buds system to re program the computer. If you change where it is set now you run the risk of the computer going into limp mode.
After you get all the equipment and spend a day figuring everything out, You would be better off leaving it to a pro.
Last edited by AY4B; 05-25-2016 at 05:47 AM.
2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
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The factory uses the frame as the reference point line, Rolo uses the rear wheel. It would be interesting to make 2 lines on the floor and compare the 2, then try to see if their is a way to align the rear wheel to the frame first. It would probably put the belt alingment off though.
or I would guess that the belt and sprocket gap would be touching.
Last edited by AY4B; 05-25-2016 at 06:04 AM.
2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
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AY48, leave it to the pros.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Very Active Member
I always check camber on Spyders as well. While its not adjustable, it quickly points out worn or bent suspension components or frame that will prevent a proper alignment from happening. I got in the habit when I started doing the Slingshot alignments using TruLaser as well. They have camber to figure in to the alignment angles where the Spyders are very nearly zero.
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Originally Posted by AY4B
The factory uses the frame as the reference point line, Rolo uses the rear wheel. It would be interesting to make 2 lines on the floor and compare the 2, then try to see if their is a way to align the rear wheel to the frame first. It would probably put the belt alingment off though.
or I would guess that the belt and sprocket gap would be touching.
So it would be smart to be sure the belt was aligned properly first as changing that changes the way the rear wheel is pointed.
The laser alignment described in this post reminds me of a snowmobile alignment. Where the skis are centered to the track first then toe in is set. Sure seems like you could measure toe in and its relation ship to the rear tire with equipment in your own garage. Why does the buds system need to be recalibrated? Is there a sensor that tells the computer where the handle bars are positioned? Does this impact the power steering or just the nanny systems? Seems like a minor tow adjust would not be significant to the nanny.
Does anyone know the tow in spec including the +-
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Originally Posted by saber504
So it would be smart to be sure the belt was aligned properly first as changing that changes the way the rear wheel is pointed.
The laser alignment described in this post reminds me of a snowmobile alignment. Where the skis are centered to the track first then toe in is set. Sure seems like you could measure toe in and its relation ship to the rear tire with equipment in your own garage. Why does the buds system need to be recalibrated? Is there a sensor that tells the computer where the handle bars are positioned? Does this impact the power steering or just the nanny systems? Seems like a minor tow adjust would not be significant to the nanny.
Does anyone know the tow in spec including the +-
Yes similar to a snowmobile. Align the track first. then move on to the skis.
The steering angle sensor should be reset after alignment. It comes into play for the power steering, vehicle stability control and turn signal cancellation. Also the steering force sensor should be zeroed out. Not that the alignment changes anything but the calibration will drift over time.
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Laser Alignment
Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01
AY48, leave it to the pros.
I agree with Ann totally, I watched them do 17 spyders last year (Including Mine) and every single one were significantly out of tolerance by quite a bit, and every owner raved about the difference in their bike.
I have 12-14 more for them to do in June while they are here and they can't wait to get to get it done. Squared Away is fantastic to work with and can't wait to see them!
Greetings from Idaho
2014 RT-S,
Barjaron swaybar, chome luggage rack, Ram Mount GPS, 12 volt dash outlet, spyderflap mudflap, Rivco flag mounts, drink2go and custom handlebar drink holders,Driver Backrest,Tri-Axis Handlebars, TRICLed turn signal lights. Custon Dynamic Magic Strobe Brake Modulator, Triple Dash Pouches, "Squared Away" Laser Alignment, Spyderpops Bumpskid, TricLed "Knightrider" LED
2014 RT , White (Mine) Cognac (wifes)
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Originally Posted by saber504
So it would be smart to be sure the belt was aligned properly first as changing that changes the way the rear wheel is pointed.
That is correct.
Originally Posted by saber504
The laser alignment described in this post reminds me of a snowmobile alignment. Where the skis are centered to the track first then toe in is set. Sure seems like you could measure toe in and its relation ship to the rear tire with equipment in your own garage. Why does the buds system need to be recalibrated? Is there a sensor that tells the computer where the handle bars are positioned? Does this impact the power steering or just the nanny systems? Seems like a minor tow adjust would not be significant to the nanny.
Does anyone know the tow in spec including the +-
As billy has said, it is similar to snowmobile alignment. If I was in an area where snowmobiles were used I would be getting with Spydercomfort to figure out adapters to use with them because it would be so much easier than the manual way I learned. The steering angle sensor basically tells the system what straight is. If you change the alignment without resetting the SAS and DPS you can wind up fighting the system as you ride.
The specs used by the ROLO alignment are specific for that procedure. If you are really curious about how the BRP system works you can find the procedure in the service manual (spec of 0 +/- 5mm). Keep in mind though, that the overwhelming majority of ryders have found that procedure to produce unsatisfactory results.
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Originally Posted by cyclekid58
I agree with Ann totally, I watched them do 17 spyders last year (Including Mine) and every single one were significantly out of tolerance by quite a bit, and every owner raved about the difference in their bike.
I have 12-14 more for them to do in June while they are here and they can't wait to get to get it done. Squared Away is fantastic to work with and can't wait to see them!
Wow! all 17 significantly out of alignment. Were they all having problems and had the alignment checked because of it. Were they a certain model or year?
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Originally Posted by saber504
Wow! all 17 significantly out of alignment. Were they all having problems and had the alignment checked because of it. Were they a certain model or year?
Very few, far less than 5% of Spyders produced are correctly aligned as delivered from BRP. A very few dealers include a proper laser alignment as part of the new vehicle sales and make ready process. IE I would have been surprised if even one in the 17 that signed up for alignment was anywhere close to correct. If yours has not been laser aligned, its very likely not correct. Many folks that do not think they have any problems what so ever with their bike are amazed at the improvement after a proper alignment.
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Alignment
Originally Posted by saber504
Wow! all 17 significantly out of alignment. Were they all having problems and had the alignment checked because of it. Were they a certain model or year?
They were various models from 2008 through 2015, ST, RT, and a New F3. They basically put them together at the factory for shipping, the dealer does the set-up and get ready for the customer. Most Dealers do not have the laser alignment systems, in this area we have a couple over toward the coast that is anywhere from 400 to 600 miles away. Putting on the aftermarket BajaRon swaybar and links helps, but the laser alignment tops it off and makes it handle like a far different machine, we had several that were a half inch out on toe-in on one side and as much as 2 inches on the other side so it basically crabbed when driving. Dealers who have the Rolo laser systems will usually do a laser alignment before a customer ever recieves a machine. Areas that don't have it sometimes can schedule a time period with a Laser alignment business such as Squared Away that travel to various festivals and spyder events, or in our case manage to get them to stop on their way to an event if we get enough bikes. So to us it is worth the $130 for better handling, better tire wear and is easier on the body for handling the bike where we can sit back, smell the posies and enjoy the ride.
Greetings from Idaho
2014 RT-S,
Barjaron swaybar, chome luggage rack, Ram Mount GPS, 12 volt dash outlet, spyderflap mudflap, Rivco flag mounts, drink2go and custom handlebar drink holders,Driver Backrest,Tri-Axis Handlebars, TRICLed turn signal lights. Custon Dynamic Magic Strobe Brake Modulator, Triple Dash Pouches, "Squared Away" Laser Alignment, Spyderpops Bumpskid, TricLed "Knightrider" LED
2014 RT , White (Mine) Cognac (wifes)
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We have done over 700 alignments and have found less than 1% to be in spec.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
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Tire inflation
I've heard tire inflation is also important when getting a laser alignment.
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Originally Posted by SteveLaoyster
I've heard tire inflation is also important when getting a laser alignment.
Tire inflation is important for overall riding stability. If you get too big a difference between the inflation of the two front tires it will severely impact your handling. Ideally they should be exactly the same, but no more than 1/2 pound of difference between them.
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Originally Posted by cyclekid58
They were various models from 2008 through 2015, ST, RT, and a New F3. They basically put them together at the factory for shipping, the dealer does the set-up and get ready for the customer. Most Dealers do not have the laser alignment systems, in this area we have a couple over toward the coast that is anywhere from 400 to 600 miles away. Putting on the aftermarket BajaRon swaybar and links helps, but the laser alignment tops it off and makes it handle like a far different machine, we had several that were a half inch out on toe-in on one side and as much as 2 inches on the other side so it basically crabbed when driving. Dealers who have the Rolo laser systems will usually do a laser alignment before a customer ever recieves a machine. Areas that don't have it sometimes can schedule a time period with a Laser alignment business such as Squared Away that travel to various festivals and spyder events, or in our case manage to get them to stop on their way to an event if we get enough bikes. So to us it is worth the $130 for better handling, better tire wear and is easier on the body for handling the bike where we can sit back, smell the posies and enjoy the ride.
Why should I think that your "laser" method is any better than say the factory recommended method? How do I know that your attachment method puts the light beam perfectly parallel to the plane of the wheel? Sounds like a great sales gimmic
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Originally Posted by saber504
Why should I think that your "laser" method is any better than say the factory recommended method? How do I know that your attachment method puts the light beam perfectly parallel to the plane of the wheel? Sounds like a great sales gimmic
Because the factory engineering staff published a bulletin for all dealers stating that the Rolo laser alignment system is the best way to align Spyders. Because the inventor, Mike Loescher, has a patent on the device. Because thousands of people have had it done and are totally satisfied. Because the lasers connect to the center of the wheel. Because it is based in math. Why not read up on it? See Spydercomfort.com. Click on NY dealers. Find one near you. Most check it for free. We do. If it is within spec, it is free. If not, it is plain to the naked eye how far off it is. Get it aligned. Go ride it. Feel the difference! Three of the most knowledgeable men I know (Lamont, Spyderpops, Len) all have and use this system. In fact, I asked them if I should get one. All agreed: it is the best way to align a Spyder. Less than 1% are within spec, from the factory, in my experience.
Joe Meyer
Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system
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Originally Posted by saber504
Why should I think that your "laser" method is any better than say the factory recommended method? How do I know that your attachment method puts the light beam perfectly parallel to the plane of the wheel? Sounds like a great sales gimmic
Cptjam gave you good reasons. You could also do a search of the forums (if you have a week or two to spare) for laser alignments and see just how many ryders on here brag on what a difference the laser alignment made to their ride.
If you do that you will also see some posts with pictures of tires worn badly on one side or the other because of poor alignment from the factory.
If you attend an event where one of the vendors is aligning bikes, go watch. You can see, in person, that the laser is aligned perfectly with the wheel. The developer of this system adapted it from his NASCAR alignment system.
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Originally Posted by saber504
Why should I think that your "laser" method is any better than say the factory recommended method? How do I know that your attachment method puts the light beam perfectly parallel to the plane of the wheel? Sounds like a great sales gimmic
The factory has recommended the laser alignment for 3 years running now. The factory does not recommend any other method. Search Rolo alignment for details on how it works before declaring it a gimmick.
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Originally Posted by cptjam
Because the factory engineering staff published a bulletin for all dealers stating that the Rolo laser alignment system is the best way to align Spyders. Because the inventor, Mike Loescher, has a patent on the device. Because thousands of people have had it done and are totally satisfied. Because the lasers connect to the center of the wheel. Because it is based in math. Why not read up on it? See Spydercomfort.com. Click on NY dealers. Find one near you. Most check it for free. We do. If it is within spec, it is free. If not, it is plain to the naked eye how far off it is. Get it aligned. Go ride it. Feel the difference! Three of the most knowledgeable men I know (Lamont, Spyderpops, Len) all have and use this system. In fact, I asked them if I should get one. All agreed: it is the best way to align a Spyder. Less than 1% are within spec, from the factory, in my experience.
Had not read that BRP engineering published that statement. That makes all the difference to me. BRP must love you for saying 99% of Spyders are out of spec from the factory.
Turns out my local dealer has a laser unit.
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