-
Lubricating cables
No owners manual.. can someone describe how to lubricate the cables on an (pre 2013) RS please? Specifically the seat latch seems to be sticking and I've already adjusted the pin height. But the key seems to meet with resistance. How much disassembly of the key module is needed. While I'm at it I might as well lube the throttle and clutch cables too.
Last edited by asp125; 03-28-2016 at 01:58 PM.
When life throws you curves, aim for the apex
Current stable: 09 Thruxton / 09 FZ6
Sold List: 97 Ninja500R, 03 SV650K3, 01 Ducati 750Sport Dark, 73 CB350/4, 03 F650GSA, 08 Gixxer600, 03 Gixxer600, 91 VFR750F, 09 KLX250, 06 Thruxton 900, 08 Spyder RS , 12 Street TripleR, 15 RC390, 02 VFR800, 09 KLX250S, 10 F650GS
JLohPhotos
... Motorcycles are kind of like Baskin Robbins... You're looking at 31 flavors of ice cream, don't you kind of want to know what they all taste like?...
-
For lubing cables use liquid graphite, crushed pencil led in suspended fluid any good hardware store also for padlocks
Sent from my GT-P5113 using Tapatalk
-
I have some good graphite cable lube, just don't know if there is a proper method to disconnect the cables, or if I should just wing it.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Xparent Skyblue Tapatalk 2
When life throws you curves, aim for the apex
Current stable: 09 Thruxton / 09 FZ6
Sold List: 97 Ninja500R, 03 SV650K3, 01 Ducati 750Sport Dark, 73 CB350/4, 03 F650GSA, 08 Gixxer600, 03 Gixxer600, 91 VFR750F, 09 KLX250, 06 Thruxton 900, 08 Spyder RS , 12 Street TripleR, 15 RC390, 02 VFR800, 09 KLX250S, 10 F650GS
JLohPhotos
... Motorcycles are kind of like Baskin Robbins... You're looking at 31 flavors of ice cream, don't you kind of want to know what they all taste like?...
-
Very Active Member
-
Try this..
Most bike shops sell a tool and a cable lube spray can with instructions. This is the best way to lube the whole cable. Applying to the ends will do nothing for the center where many cables dry out... I have seen kits and sold seperately. Just ask for a cable lumber and cable lube it will be a spray can with a thin tube...
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
-
Originally Posted by IGETAROUND
This is a great tool! Use on all my cables on all my power equipment. Lasts about 2 years.
Mike
-
-
Lubricating cables
Consider also mounting an expanding spring to the latch pin. I have one on the seat and frunk pins, secured with RTV, that cause the frunk lid and seat to pop up when released.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
-
My issue first surfaced on my 2010 RT where the key release would not work at all for the seat (broke) and was stiff for the frunk release. I disassembled what I could, to get at the mechanism up by the key but had no success in getting at the problem spot. I believe that through washing, the upper ends of the two cables received water and simply rusted and seized.
I bypassed each of the cables by using some generic MC cables to each (seat & frunk) latch and activating with a custom lever, down by the oil check opening. It worked fine.
My 2013 has now acted up the same way and I'd really like to lube the cables BEFORE one breaks. We must get right to the source of the problem, up at the ignition assembly. I'm not sure how to do it. All I need is a little info. Can anyone offer a tip?
-
Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Since08
My issue first surfaced on my 2010 RT where the key release would not work at all for the seat (broke) and was stiff for the frunk release. I disassembled what I could, to get at the mechanism up by the key but had no success in getting at the problem spot. I believe that through washing, the upper ends of the two cables received water and simply rusted and seized.
I bypassed each of the cables by using some generic MC cables to each (seat & frunk) latch and activating with a custom lever, down by the oil check opening. It worked fine.
My 2013 has now acted up the same way and I'd really like to lube the cables BEFORE one breaks. We must get right to the source of the problem, up at the ignition assembly. I'm not sure how to do it. All I need is a little info. Can anyone offer a tip?
It's a real pita to do but if you unhook the cable from under the key switch then use one of those cable lubers that the person above suggested you will be able to shoot the lube down the cable! I don't know if you would be able to disconnect from the other end and shoot it up from there, if it had enough pressure to do that I don't know! What I do know after changing my seat cable in my 2012rtl if it happens again I will do the retro that you did to your other bike and the pull cord, it's easyer and you'll save a lot of blood from skun knuckles!! Good luck OH Ya this was a old post from 2016!!!
-
I use an air nozzle to force the lube through the cable. Snowmobiles will get water (melted snow) in the cables that needs blown out. Cable lube will help corrosion also. I have a friend who ran a snowmobile into the side of his car from a frozen cable.
-
I like the tool that is listed above from Amazon, it simplifies life greatly, but I have used the air trick for decades, the tool is neater and cleaner too.
2012 RS-S , Baja Ron Plug Wire Kit and NGK Iridium Plugs Grey and Black
-
Member
Originally Posted by lawson001
Consider also mounting an expanding spring to the latch pin. I have one on the seat and frunk pins, secured with RTV, that cause the frunk lid and seat to pop up when released.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Could you please post a pic of this. I think this would be a great mod! Thanks in advance!
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|