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Active Member
 Another MAYDAY!
Went out to start up my 2010 RT this morning. displays came up normally, got the normal "read...select mode switch" etc. Made sure kill button was on run and hit the starter. had a click and displays went dead. Thought "Hmmm, battery." hooked up the battery charger and after about 10 minutes went out to check the charge and the charger indicated green-charged. thought  .
Inserted key, displays up normal, right up to the "select mode switch" etc. The displays went absolute ape ! analog needles swinging full range, warning indicators rapid flashing, then all went black.
Spent the last 30 minutes searching posts trying to find the same situation but no joy. HELP!
Jim
Kraut “Not all who wander are lost” – J.R.R. Tolkien
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Active Member
 Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Is this the original battery that came with the bike? 
If it is; I'd bet that you just need to replace it.
Otherwise; start checking for nice and tight connections at the battery...
Good Luck! 
It is the original battery. The problem is that it charged up quickly if that means any thing. I'll check the connections.
Kraut “Not all who wander are lost” – J.R.R. Tolkien
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I would guess that it actually isn't charged-up... 
It initially acted just like they all do, when they're reaching the end of their useful lives...
If you can; take it to a place where they can Load-Test it... I hope that I'm wrong, but I bet that it doesn't pass muster...
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Something similar like this happened to me with my '11 RT with original battery. I jump started it, went on a nice ride (50 miles or so) which charged up the battery. Haven't had any issues since. I will be replacing the battery after this riding season. Good Luck!
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
I would guess that it actually isn't charged-up...
It initially acted just like they all do, when they're reaching the end of their useful lives...
If you can; take it to a place where they can Load-Test it... I hope that I'm wrong, but I bet that it doesn't pass muster...
Thanks Bob. I'll do that. Really hoped to avoid taking the left side of the scoot apart to get to the battery.
Kraut “Not all who wander are lost” – J.R.R. Tolkien
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Active Member
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
Ooh... That's right; it's a 2010... 
Take your time, and keep a clean rag handy; to chew on! 
Thanks-I guess. just came back in from dry running the panel removal. May not be as bad as I envisioned. Got to do it some time.
Kraut “Not all who wander are lost” – J.R.R. Tolkien
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It isn't difficult to remove the panels and there are some videos that will show you step by step. Just remember that it is like a puzzle and the first piece is removing the mirrors.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Very Active Member
One funny thing about batteries is, if they charge up quickly, they will discharge quickly. I've been down that road before. If you take the old battery to a Batteries Plus store or something like it, they will test it for you, but be prepared to buy a new one. You most likely will need it.
2011 RTS (Sold to a very nice lady)
1998 Honda Valkyrie
2006 Mustang GT. Varooooom!
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Experience is recognizing the same mistake every time you make it! 
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Very Active Member
If you have a volt meter put it on the battery with the key off, should be 12+ volts, then turn the key on and see what happens. It's either the battery or connections.
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You can remove the mid panel without removing the mirrors and all the other panels.
See my Battery video in the DIY section and it shows how.
Bob
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Been there. Same routine
I'm betting you need new battery
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Very Active Member
Bad battery. The fact it charged up quickly from a dead condition means it can't absorb a lot of electricity, hence it doesn't store enough to start the bike.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Body panel removal
I hope that this gives you some helpful tips...
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Here's the thing..!!
A quick charge usually means a surface charge. Flip on a switch and its gone. Try the jumper first but this is going to put doubts in your mind so go for the new battery...imo.
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Active Member
Got the panels off with no problems.The hardest part was getting the battery cover panel off and the battery out. It was gone ( the battery was shot not missing) so a new battery is sitting next to Scoot3r ready to go in after work tomorrow. Thanks guys-It is reassuring when you get a bunch of responses and they all concur.
Jim
Kraut “Not all who wander are lost” – J.R.R. Tolkien
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Thanks for keeping us updated, and we're glad to hear that the "Fix" is progressing along nicely! 
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Active Member
Got my new battery in. Got the panels back on. No leftover bolts, grommets, no left over nothings. For me this is a major accomplishment since I am about as technical as my dog. When I was a test range air controller the techs wouldn't even leave a screwdriver near me. Thanks for all the help and encouragement Folks-I appreciate it!
Jim
Kraut “Not all who wander are lost” – J.R.R. Tolkien
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