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Went to Mobile 1
Wow, I cannot believe the difference! Went from BRP blended to Mobile 1 4T full synthetic and I immediately noticed a difference. The engine runs quieter and you can barely feel it shift. The old oil has 5k on it and will be sent in for analysis. Let's see if the shearing had ceased like the claims....I'll report back!
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Very Active Member
I just sent my first sample of Mobil 1 4T for analysis with 2,000 miles on it. I intend to send samples at 2K intervals at least through 6K to observe the stabilization of viscosity shear. I agree too that the shifting is noticeably smoother than with the BRP synthetic blend. It also will be interesting to see if the smooth shifting continues as the oil accumulates mileage.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Waiting....
Be interesting to see both your findings. Should keep a record, a graph, a chart for all those oil related questions put it up next to the one that should be made for tires. Ok tires I don't care about but the oil I do....
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Good Stuff
I used Mobil 1 a lot in my 100K Gold Wing and my V-Strom. Always liked it. Would have used it in my 2011 RT if it had a JASO MA-2 rating instead of MA-1. Since the v-twins occasionally had clutch slipping problems. Maybe for the 1330's it will be just fine. I had been using Amsoil JASO MA-2 in the 2011 and now use it in the '14 1330. Let us know if you detect any trace of clutch slippage and the analysis results. Will be interesting. Thanks.
RT and Gold Wing States & Provinces
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Very Active Member
I had the BRP blended tested at 6,000 miles and it sheared down to 20w. I switched to Mobil 1 and had the Mobil 1 10-40 full syn tested at 6,000 miles and it had sheared down to 33w. I then switched to BRP full syn and at 5,700 it also sheared down to 20w. I stayed with BRP full syn for my trip to Alaska and will be sending that in for testing. It has 8,500 miles on it. Once I have that test I will post the full report.
Based on the tests so far I will be changing to Mobil 1 at my next change and sticking with it.
2021 Sea To Sky, 2020 RTL
Isn't it weird that in AMERICA our flag and our culture offend so many people......
but our benefits don't?
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Originally Posted by PW2013STL
I had the BRP blended tested at 6,000 miles and it sheared down to 20w. I switched to Mobil 1 and had the Mobil 1 10-40 full syn tested at 6,000 miles and it had sheared down to 33w. I then switched to BRP full syn and at 5,700 it also sheared down to 20w. I stayed with BRP full syn for my trip to Alaska and will be sending that in for testing. It has 8,500 miles on it. Once I have that test I will post the full report.
Based on the tests so far I will be changing to Mobil 1 at my next change and sticking with it.
Just as another point of reference, I had 8100 miles on my 2011 RT during an Alaska trip. Amsoil 10-40 and it came back from the lab in the high 30's for viscosity -- 12.06 cSt@100C. TBN was good, too, at 6.1.
RT and Gold Wing States & Provinces
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Very Active Member
WELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL
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Very Active Member
Really glad to see the reporting by those of you who test your oil. I've been testing a lot since I got my first RT in '11. Generally, both motors shear about the same. I've got Mobil1 in mine now with 4K on it and will test it at 6K. By then we all should have enough concrete information to see whether the shearing tapers off significantly after the first couple thousand miles. I'm a doubting thomas, but sincerely hope I'm wrong.
Two Wheelers from 1963-2011
Three Wheelers:
2011 RT(Red)
2014 RT(white)
2016 F3T(red)
2022 RT current ride(silver)
__________________
2016 Slingshot
2018 Vanderhall
2019 Slingshot
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Active Member
I watched a video on Youtube University by the factory Amsoil lecturer. So learned a lot about shear. And how synthetic works. Please tell me where to send the oil for testing as I'm about to switch to Amsoil this week and would like to have the original factory installed oil tested with 3,300 miles on it. It's my first change but from my last 4 big bikes (BMW K1200LT) I learned the value of Amsoil. For my Silverado however, I've used Mobil 1 since the first change and that was 125K miles ago. and would never change but for the bikes, Amsoil is it for me. Still would like to test my bike's oil.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by ricford
Please tell me where to send the oil for testing as I'm about to switch to Amsoil this week and would like to have the original factory installed oil tested with 3,300 miles on it... Still would like to test my bike's oil.
Contact a Napa auto parts store and ask for part FIL-4077, cost $13.99, oil analysis kit. Follow the instructions. In my local area not all Napa stores carry them but you can order them online and pick up at your local store. The only additional cost is postage to the lab. Mine goes to Atlanta for less than $3.00.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Any Warranty Issues???????????
Being a NewB(<1000 miles), I'm always looking to learn from the more experienced SLs. My take aways from all this "oil talk" are:
1. The BRP oil is just OK, IF you change every 3-4K
2. There are better alternatives available; but only if you do you own oil changes. The leading brands are:
a. Mobil 1 T4
b. Rotella T6
c. Amsoil
Here's my questions:
1. During the Factory Warranty period, can BRP leave you high and dry if you don't use their oil?
2. Does the BEST warranty care what oil you use?
Thanks for your guidance
2021 Marsala Red Metallic RT Limited
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Very Active Member
WARRANTY
Originally Posted by MikeT
Being a NewB(<1000 miles), I'm always looking to learn from the more experienced SLs. My take aways from all this "oil talk" are:
1. The BRP oil is just OK, IF you change every 3-4K
2. There are better alternatives available; but only if you do you own oil changes. The leading brands are:
a. Mobil 1 T4
b. Rotella T6
c. Amsoil
Here's my questions:
1. During the Factory Warranty period, can BRP leave you high and dry if you don't use their oil?
2. Does the BEST warranty care what oil you use?
Thanks for your guidance
NO & NO........The Moss Magnusson Act protects you from any manufacturer from forcing you to use their products or services to maintain the warranty. But you must document what you do and what you use.....and it must be equal to or exceed their requirements. This may at first sound difficult but it's not......annnnnnnnnnd for them to deny you coverage they have to PROVE what you did was defective and caused the failure...................TO ANYONE WHO KNOWS IT BETTER ...PLEASE MAKE CORRECTIONS .......Mike .............PS, to date I haven't brought my 2014 RT into the dealer yet, but I completed all the warranty requirements
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 07-31-2015 at 09:30 AM.
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Very Active Member
As long as you use an oil meeting the API service classification listed in your Operator's guide you meet the requirement. Remember, as Steve from BRPcare explained the oil viscosity shears down 20-30% within 1,000 - 1,500 miles and then stabilizes. What I believe most of us are looking for, at least I am, is the approximate stabilization mileage point and the viscosity at that point.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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Cognac 2014 RT-S
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I the early days of this forum, the motorcycle blend of Mobil-1 was reported to have caused clutch slippage, resulting in costly repairs. I remember Scotty (Nancy'sToy) recommending it not be used. I don't recall which Mobil-1 was used, V-Twin or the one mention by the OP of this thread. I have used the 4T on my GL1800A for years without a problem.
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Mobil 1 life member
I've used Mobil 1 car oils in just about every vehicle I was licensed to drive or ride. Back in the 70's I owned a Honda 750k that had a "dry sump" and my dad and I noticed with regular auto oils that when you pulled the dip stick, the oil would be very foamy but when we changed to Mobil 1 the oil would be totaly in fluid form. So ever since then I've stuck with it. Used it in "hotted-up" VW sand rails and 4 stroke race bikes and I've never blown one of them up(hope I just d/n jinx myself). Have noticed that my RT did not burn a drop on our 5000 mi. trip and I have to agree it does seem to shift better.
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Very Active Member
WHERE
WHERE DO YOU GUYS GO TO HAVE YOUR OIL 'TESTED'.....?
HOW MUCH DO YOU GIVE THEM FOR THIS TEST...?
HOW MUCH DOES THIS TEST COST...?
PLZ keep us informed... i for 1 am VERY INTERESTED....
NOTE: does any1 out there really believe that the new 1330's can go over 9000 miles between oil changes without a risk....?
Dan P
Easley, SC
SPYD3R F3-S
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Very Active Member
Dan, see post #11.
The analysis is what we hope will give us some confidence in what BRP is telling us about the 9,300 mile change interval.
Last edited by JayBros; 07-31-2015 at 07:10 PM.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Very Active Member
SOME ANSWERS
see above in red.....Mike
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Very Active Member
OIL
Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
see above in red.....Mike
MIKE;
LET ME RE-STATE MY QUESTION BETTER....
HOW MUCH 'OIL' DO YOU GUYS GIVE THEM FOR THIS TEST?
DAN
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Very Active Member
The Napa kit contains a small plastic bottle the instructions say should be 3/4 full, that's 3-4 oz. The instructions also say the sample should be taken within 30 minutes of turning off the engine. On the information sheet you send with the sample they want to know, inter alia, the miles on the unit, the miles on the oil and if the oil filter was changed at the time the engine was filled with the oil being sampled.
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
******************************
Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Very Active Member
SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOORRY
Originally Posted by SPYD3R
MIKE;
LET ME RE-STATE MY QUESTION BETTER....
HOW MUCH 'OIL' DO YOU GUYS GIVE THEM FOR THIS TEST?
DAN
........SEE POST # 21..........Mike
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FWIW
I just switched to Rotella 15W40 "dino" oil. I previously had the OEM blend first and then Rotella T6. I changed from the OEM blend to Rotella T6 at 1,500 miles (early) because that is just what I do. I switched from the Rotella T6 at 3,000 miles due to less-than-ideal shifting. (I am very picky I guess?)
I switched to Rotella 15W40 because I plan to change it every 3,000 miles. Almost any oil (of the proper viscosity) will perform adequately for a small interval like that. Rotella 15W40 is JASO MA2 certified. The biggest issue (for me) with intervals beyond 3,000 miles is (shared sump) shearing. I would use the Rotella T6 but it shifts noticeably rougher with it. The Rotella 15W40 is slicker shifting and it is easier to find neutral. I can get the Rotella 15W40 for under $15 a gallon if I look a little. I will replace the filter every 9,000 miles. (I changed the filter at 1,500.) I will replace the two metal crush washers every 3,000 miles. I will examine the sump plug o-rings with a magnifying glass and if they look fine I will reuse them, but I will replace them every 9,000 miles. I like the smaller viscosity spread of 15W40 than 5W40. I don't mind changing oil. I find it relaxing and I like to work on my stuff. I recycle the oil so I am not hurting the environment. I am not worried about the engine warranty. This is not my first rodeo.
YMMV
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Very Active Member
WELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL
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Better gas mileage?
It seems my gas mileage has improved 3-5 mpg since putting in the M1. The bike is also starting right up. It had always cranked for a few seconds before. Now it starts right up. Since the oil is the only thing I've done, it pretty much has to be it.
And Mike T, after you get your initial break-in service is done, I'll change your oil for you. You watch me a few times, you will be doing your own in no time if you want. With the lift, it is a piece of cake!
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