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  1. #1
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    Default The Next Upgrade



    Working on a metal version.............
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    Default Great news..!!

    Now that will be nice...good luck..
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys View Post
    Working on a metal version.............
    When you have a metal version are you aiming to make them available? If so can I order my pair now?

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    Active Member Spyderjuice's Avatar
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    I'll bite. What is it. I don't remember seeing anything like that.
    Stan
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  5. #5
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    Mirror Clips?
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Mirror Clips?
    Known in the parts manual I believe as Housing, PN 219800158, for RT mirrors.
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    Default Aluminum!

    I would also make the area the slides over the ball stud a little thicker in order to get rid of the play. I use a little black tape around the end of the ball stud now and it works great. These clips can also be used on 2013 RT's you just need to replace the top ball stud with 2014 part number.

  8. #8
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Metal replacement not advised. This inexpensive and easy to replace clip is intended to be the weak link in the connection. If you replace with a metal version, the housing where the clip screws in to the mirror will break off instead. Don't ask how I know. This clip is FAR cheaper to replace than the black inner mirror housing.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Y-Ryder View Post
    I would also make the area the slides over the ball stud a little thicker in order to get rid of the play. I use a little black tape around the end of the ball stud now and it works great. These clips can also be used on 2013 RT's you just need to replace the top ball stud with 2014 part number.

    So; a little bit of tape tightens things up?
    Nice!! Thanks!
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    Metal replacement not advised. This inexpensive and easy to replace clip is intended to be the weak link in the connection. If you replace with a metal version, the housing where the clip screws in to the mirror will break off instead. Don't ask how I know. This clip is FAR cheaper to replace than the black inner mirror housing.
    So you're thinking of the plastic clip as a "shear pin"; right?
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    Metal replacement not advised. This inexpensive and easy to replace clip is intended to be the weak link in the connection. If you replace with a metal version, the housing where the clip screws in to the mirror will break off instead. Don't ask how I know. This clip is FAR cheaper to replace than the black inner mirror housing.
    You are right that it is the weakest point and we may have to strengthen the housing, but I think that thin flexable steel will just bend rather than break. Then it would just be a simple matter of taking it off and straightening it over and over.

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    Default

    I LIKE the idea of having a couple of these as spares...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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    i mentioned this a couple of week's back, great idea

  14. #14
    Very Active Member oldguyinTX's Avatar
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    The plastic "Upper Pellets" as they are called in the BRP parts catalogue are $12.99 each. To me, that is not cheap. I recently bought 2 left hand & 2 right hand so I could have one of each to carry with me on the Spyder, and one of each to have at home in my tool box. The total with shipping was $62.69. I have replaced these three times now. Yes, they are a LOT cheaper than a mirror assembly, which is why I carry spares. I also zip tie the electrical connectors together to keep the mirror from completely falling off in case the "pellet" fails. That saved BOTH of my mirrors when I was unable due to traffic to avoid hitting a large pothole and both mirrors fell off. Glad I was carrying spares.
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    Very Active Member PMK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y-Ryder View Post
    I would also make the area the slides over the ball stud a little thicker in order to get rid of the play. I use a little black tape around the end of the ball stud now and it works great. These clips can also be used on 2013 RT's you just need to replace the top ball stud with 2014 part number.
    Not sure if that is possible. I looked into it and with how the mirror must be slapped to remove it, that creates an angle which requires a loose fit.

    Tape is probably the simplest solution.

    PK

  16. #16
    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y-Ryder View Post
    I would also make the area the slides over the ball stud a little thicker in order to get rid of the play. I use a little black tape around the end of the ball stud now and it works great. These clips can also be used on 2013 RT's you just need to replace the top ball stud with 2014 part number.
    Looks like the same clips as on a 2012 RT.
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  17. #17
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default REALLY BOB

    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Mirror Clips?
    ...Holy cr*p.....why don't you just take a PIC of the ones I sent you LAST YEAR.....Mike ........................I know He reads everything ...and I'll bet He doesn't respond to this post
    Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 07-15-2015 at 06:54 PM.

  18. #18
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    Default MIRROR CLIPS

    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys View Post


    Working on a metal version.............
    .....Not really difficult to make ...I made a bunch last year and gave them away to friends ( and Bob )....I'm curious to know what they are worth retail ???.....If you need any help PM me .....Mike

  19. #19
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    Default

    I made some out of large metal washers that work great
    I am thinking of making some out of spring steel

  20. #20
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    I was putting the RT back together and decided that I would use the new clips that I have been carrying around for over a year in case one broke. Upon closer examination I see that they have been modified from the original. First, they are side contingent. So you will have to carry one for each side. They also have put slots in for added flexibility. Not sure that I like these new ones. They seem even more fragile. I am going to try them and get one of the originals to my machinist. I know that to be fabricated correctly, they will have to have some tight tolerances. Beyond what I can do in my shop. Half the battle with this stuff is knowing what you can and can't do.
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    Very Active Member robmorg's Avatar
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    So, in actual practice, what is it that causes these clips to fail. Is it the frequent "whacking" of the mirror housing to get it on and off, or would it take a more severe shock than that, like a large pot hole (or both)?
    Rob
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  22. #22
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default CAUSES

    Quote Originally Posted by robmorg View Post
    So, in actual practice, what is it that causes these clips to fail. Is it the frequent "whacking" of the mirror housing to get it on and off, or would it take a more severe shock than that, like a large pot hole (or both)?
    From what others have commented , both have occurred with these......Mike

  23. #23
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    What I want to see is the "keyhole" type for all 3 mounts and then some sort of locking mechanism to keep it from hopping off. That way the are easy to put on and take off and no more smacking the mirrors and potentially breaking stuff to get them on and off...

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by robmorg View Post
    So, in actual practice, what is it that causes these clips to fail. Is it the frequent "whacking" of the mirror housing to get it on and off, or would it take a more severe shock than that, like a large pot hole (or both)?
    Sometimes someone will bump them, walk up and learn on the mirror (a big no-no), etc. etc.

    The system is not ideal. Especially when they fall off going down the road.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys View Post

    I was putting the RT back together and decided that I would use the new clips that I have been carrying around for over a year in case one broke. Upon closer examination I see that they have been modified from the original. First, they are side contingent. So you will have to carry one for each side. They also have put slots in for added flexibility. Not sure that I like these new ones. They seem even more fragile. I am going to try them and get one of the originals to my machinist. I know that to be fabricated correctly, they will have to have some tight tolerances. Beyond what I can do in my shop. Half the battle with this stuff is knowing what you can and can't do.
    I did not use tight tolerances on the ones I made
    I just eyeballed them and cut the metal washers with a dermal
    They work fine
    Don

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