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Great news..!!
Now that will be nice...good luck..
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys
Working on a metal version.............
When you have a metal version are you aiming to make them available? If so can I order my pair now?
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Active Member
I'll bite. What is it. I don't remember seeing anything like that.
Stan
Happy owner of 2014 White RTS - SE6
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Very Active Member
Artillery lends dignity to what would
otherwise be a vulgar brawl.
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Cognac 2014 RT-S
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Aluminum!
I would also make the area the slides over the ball stud a little thicker in order to get rid of the play. I use a little black tape around the end of the ball stud now and it works great. These clips can also be used on 2013 RT's you just need to replace the top ball stud with 2014 part number.
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Very Active Member
Metal replacement not advised. This inexpensive and easy to replace clip is intended to be the weak link in the connection. If you replace with a metal version, the housing where the clip screws in to the mirror will break off instead. Don't ask how I know. This clip is FAR cheaper to replace than the black inner mirror housing.
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Originally Posted by jcthorne
Metal replacement not advised. This inexpensive and easy to replace clip is intended to be the weak link in the connection. If you replace with a metal version, the housing where the clip screws in to the mirror will break off instead. Don't ask how I know. This clip is FAR cheaper to replace than the black inner mirror housing.
So you're thinking of the plastic clip as a "shear pin"; right?
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Originally Posted by jcthorne
Metal replacement not advised. This inexpensive and easy to replace clip is intended to be the weak link in the connection. If you replace with a metal version, the housing where the clip screws in to the mirror will break off instead. Don't ask how I know. This clip is FAR cheaper to replace than the black inner mirror housing.
You are right that it is the weakest point and we may have to strengthen the housing, but I think that thin flexable steel will just bend rather than break. Then it would just be a simple matter of taking it off and straightening it over and over.
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I LIKE the idea of having a couple of these as spares...
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i mentioned this a couple of week's back, great idea
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Very Active Member
The plastic "Upper Pellets" as they are called in the BRP parts catalogue are $12.99 each. To me, that is not cheap. I recently bought 2 left hand & 2 right hand so I could have one of each to carry with me on the Spyder, and one of each to have at home in my tool box. The total with shipping was $62.69. I have replaced these three times now. Yes, they are a LOT cheaper than a mirror assembly, which is why I carry spares. I also zip tie the electrical connectors together to keep the mirror from completely falling off in case the "pellet" fails. That saved BOTH of my mirrors when I was unable due to traffic to avoid hitting a large pothole and both mirrors fell off. Glad I was carrying spares.
"A Wise Man Once Said, I Should Ask My Wife."
2017 Champagne Metallic RT-S SE-6 Rivco Dual Flag Holders; Slingmods Highway Pegs; (Hate Them) Airhawk Seat Cushion; Show Chrome Black Touring Rack w/ Risers & Touring Windshield; RAM X Mount For TXTAG; TackForm Phone Mount; Lidlox; Magic Mirror Mounts; Guardian Bells; WOLO "Bad Boy" Air Horn; Dual USB Power Outlet With Voltmeter; 12V outlet for misc. stuff; Spyderpops Full View Mirror Turn Signals; Large Brake Pedal; Kott Grilles; Large Mud Flap; BajaRon 3 Piece Sway Bar, Last But Not Least, Kuhmo Rear Rire, Vedrestien Fronts.
2017 RT-S , Brake pedal extender is twice the size of the stock pedal. Champagne Metallic
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Y-Ryder
I would also make the area the slides over the ball stud a little thicker in order to get rid of the play. I use a little black tape around the end of the ball stud now and it works great. These clips can also be used on 2013 RT's you just need to replace the top ball stud with 2014 part number.
Not sure if that is possible. I looked into it and with how the mirror must be slapped to remove it, that creates an angle which requires a loose fit.
Tape is probably the simplest solution.
PK
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Y-Ryder
I would also make the area the slides over the ball stud a little thicker in order to get rid of the play. I use a little black tape around the end of the ball stud now and it works great. These clips can also be used on 2013 RT's you just need to replace the top ball stud with 2014 part number.
Looks like the same clips as on a 2012 RT.
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
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Very Active Member
REALLY BOB
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 07-15-2015 at 06:54 PM.
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Very Active Member
MIRROR CLIPS
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I made some out of large metal washers that work great
I am thinking of making some out of spring steel
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So, in actual practice, what is it that causes these clips to fail. Is it the frequent "whacking" of the mirror housing to get it on and off, or would it take a more severe shock than that, like a large pot hole (or both)?
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Very Active Member
CAUSES
Originally Posted by robmorg
So, in actual practice, what is it that causes these clips to fail. Is it the frequent "whacking" of the mirror housing to get it on and off, or would it take a more severe shock than that, like a large pot hole (or both)?
From what others have commented , both have occurred with these......Mike
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What I want to see is the "keyhole" type for all 3 mounts and then some sort of locking mechanism to keep it from hopping off. That way the are easy to put on and take off and no more smacking the mirrors and potentially breaking stuff to get them on and off...
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Originally Posted by robmorg
So, in actual practice, what is it that causes these clips to fail. Is it the frequent "whacking" of the mirror housing to get it on and off, or would it take a more severe shock than that, like a large pot hole (or both)?
Sometimes someone will bump them, walk up and learn on the mirror (a big no-no), etc. etc.
The system is not ideal. Especially when they fall off going down the road.
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Originally Posted by Doc Humphreys
I was putting the RT back together and decided that I would use the new clips that I have been carrying around for over a year in case one broke. Upon closer examination I see that they have been modified from the original. First, they are side contingent. So you will have to carry one for each side. They also have put slots in for added flexibility. Not sure that I like these new ones. They seem even more fragile. I am going to try them and get one of the originals to my machinist. I know that to be fabricated correctly, they will have to have some tight tolerances. Beyond what I can do in my shop. Half the battle with this stuff is knowing what you can and can't do.
I did not use tight tolerances on the ones I made
I just eyeballed them and cut the metal washers with a dermal
They work fine
Don
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