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Seat release problem
Hey all --
Pulled up to a fuel pump a few days ago and the ignition key would NOT release the season my 2012 RT Limited. Generally, when the key is pushed down and turned to the right there is some spring resistance. Now there is none. An extra long screwdriver worked the seat latch so I was able to refuel. I have removed the stainless plunger from the bottom of the seat that is grabbed by the latch so that I don't do permanent damage with the screwdriver. Anybody know how these things work and what's involved in correcting it?
Thanks in advance. Have a happy and safe Independence Day weekend!
punji
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Oops -- typo
Sorry. "Season" should have read "seat." Sloppy proofreading.
punji
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I believe that the seat release is cable-operated... Can you follow that cable back from the latch, and see if it has just come loose?
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Very Active Member
THE CURE
I had some real concerns about breaking the KEY in the ignition ( this is about $300 ).because of the amount of pressure needed release the seat with the KEY. So I wired the latch partially open. I just pull up on the seat and it comes up..........Please don't tell me about people stealing my or your GAS.....Not going to happen.................Mike
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when i had the problem i found turning the wheels lock to lock helped release it
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why lock the seat?
Why bother puttting the plunger back? I took mine out long ago so I would never have a problem with the seat getting stuck down and locked. I don't keep any valuables under the seat, so whats the point of having it lock down?
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Very Active Member
I keep my seat locked, prevent the theft of my BRP backrest.
Cruzr Joe
2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
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... Or the toolkit...
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i wouldn't miss the tool kit, i have no clue if i have one
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seat latch
Remove the latch, do not let bad people make your life miserable. The chances of some stealing anything are almost zero. Not worth the aggravation thief's have no use for your tool kit or backrest.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by kbwitt
Remove the latch, do not let bad people make your life miserable. The chances of some stealing anything are almost zero. Not worth the aggravation thief's have no use for your tool kit or backrest.
Tell that to the Spyder Owner that had his backrest stolen at the Owners Event in Maggie Valley, probably by another Spyder owner/Rider (Spyder Owners/Riders were the only ones allowed on the field).
Cruzr Joe
2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe
Tell that to the Spyder Owner that had his backrest stolen at the Owners Event in Maggie Valley, probably by another Spyder owner/Rider (Spyder Owners/Riders were the only ones allowed on the field).
Cruzr Joe
I don't know how it is on other spyders, but, it takes all of 2 seconds to get the backrest off of my GS.
Last edited by wyliec; 07-01-2015 at 08:22 PM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe
I keep my seat locked, prevent the theft of my BRP backrest.
Cruzr Joe
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Good thinkin Abe Lincoln. At $449.99 or just round it out to $450 is a very expensive replacement.
I must admit once I thought my seat was stuck and was beginning to pull on it hard and still would not open and then I remembered to push the key down and TURN IT "RIGHT" who would have guest, it opened just fine. Glad I did not break something trying to get it open. It is called operator error.
Jack
All my life I wanted to be somebody, now I realize I should have been more specific.
2019 Specialized E-Bike COMO 2.0
2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland
2018 Tiffin Phaeton 37BH Motorhome
2015 BMW R1200R LC
2014 RTL SE6 Pearl White
2012 RT-622 trailer viper red
2014 Look 7x12 motorcycle trailer silver and black
2011 Polaris Ranger green
2013 GMC Yukon Denali XL silver oak
2016 Can Am Maverick
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if there is one thing that bothers me the most, it has to be stealing. i never locked my helmet up or i would always leave the key in the bike, till one day i had a pair of gloves stolen from me on a cold day. since that day and now with this bike i carry extra gloves and a extra helmet. i also got into the habit of locking my helmet in the front frunk, and took the IPS cover off the key so i can put the key in my pocket.
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In the UK that is considered to be normal behaviour!
If it isn't locked/secured/nailed to the floor it will walk!
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Very Active Member
INFAMUOS TOOL
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Had the same problem on my 2012 RTL. So for peace of mind I put a long tie wrap on the release & ran it out at the front of the seat put a little electrical tape on the end so it wouldn't scratch the paint. Always opened mine like a charm. If you decide to do this test it a couple of times before you put the seat down. Also look how you run it out checking so it won't hang up. Got this idea from another SL.
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Very Active Member
Lube it
After reading the first couple of posts in this thread I knew what to do. Got the trusty teflon lube and put a few drops on all the latches and into the cable ends. It now works much, much easier ( even though my is fairly new).
Kaos
Kaos----- Gone but not forgotten.
2014 RTS in Circuit Yellow, farkle-ing addiction down to once every few months. ECU FLASH IS GREAT.
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Thanks, all for the responses
Think I'll just leave the latch post off and use the seat unlocked. Like many have pointed out, there's nothing worth stealing anyway. At CanAm labor rates through the dealers (after a 2-hour drive) it could end up being extremely pricey.
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I have experienced the same problem. What I found was that the switch body contains a plastic cam that turns when you press down on the key and turn. One direction it opens the seat and the other opens the fronk. The cam works the cables to the seat and fronk. It broke! The problem is that BRP does not sell internal parts to the switch body assembly and the replacement switch body and key's probably cost 300 plus dollars. It is the same switch unit that you would need to replace if you lost your keys. I lucked out and a dealer gave me a assembly from a lady's Spyders that lost her keys. I used that part to fix my switch. I cut open her switch unit and pulled the cam out of hers to fix my switch. That way I did not have to re key my bike and trailer. If you have it repaired or if you had lost your keys the charge is over $800.00 at a dealer.
The removal of the switch housing is a large job. Nearly the same work needed in installing the Tri-axial handlebars. Not saying that this is what is wrong with your ride but it is one of the possibilities. Until I fixed the switch I removed the seat lift cylinder and wired the latch open. Worked for me. I carried a rod to hold open the seat when refueling the Spyder. Good luck. Can not get out of my rain suit! Where is the sun? Bob
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Very Active Member
YEP A ROOOOO
Originally Posted by recordingguy
I have experienced the same problem. What I found was that the switch body contains a plastic cam that turns when you press down on the key and turn. One direction it opens the seat and the other opens the fronk. The cam works the cables to the seat and fronk. It broke! The problem is that BRP does not sell internal parts to the switch body assembly and the replacement switch body and key's probably cost 300 plus dollars. It is the same switch unit that you would need to replace if you lost your keys. I lucked out and a dealer gave me a assembly from a lady's Spyders that lost her keys. I used that part to fix my switch. I cut open her switch unit and pulled the cam out of hers to fix my switch. That way I did not have to re key my bike and trailer. If you have it repaired or if you had lost your keys the charge is over $800.00 at a dealer.
The removal of the switch housing is a large job. Nearly the same work needed in installing the Tri-axial handlebars. Not saying that this is what is wrong with your ride but it is one of the possibilities. Until I fixed the switch I removed the seat lift cylinder and wired the latch open. Worked for me. I carried a rod to hold open the seat when refueling the Spyder. Good luck. Can not get out of my rain suit! Where is the sun? Bob
This is what I said in Post # 4 .......Mike
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Originally Posted by Cruzr Joe
I keep my seat locked, prevent the theft of my BRP backrest.
Cruzr Joe
Good one, I am wondering what the wild eyed evil villian is going to look like after the beat down they would recieve.
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