-
Last edited by ataDude; 12-22-2008 at 11:28 AM.
-
-
New grips and grip heaters...
... Well, those of you who bought Grip Puppies because of me, uh, well, uh....
I accidentally ran across a new grip while ordering stuff for my grip heaters. They are the Sunline Grand Touring grips from California Sport Touring. I used these over the heating elements and I love them. Not too hard, not too soft... shaped just right! $11. (I had previously lost one of the stock grip end-caps... I didn't need to replace it due to these closed-end grips)
Heat-Troller:
This will be the third install of the Symtec Grip Heaters, also from CA Sport Touring. They're about $30. Look closely at the above pic and you can see the wiring exiting from under the grip and tied to the existing cables/wires.
I prefer an infinitely-variable control to an on-off switch. So... as with the past installations, I chose Heat-Troller - a solid state device. It controls the voltage to the grips by pulsing it - not by "burning off" the excess in a resistor. The Heat-Troller is about $55 from the same place.
Use caution concerning other cheaper, non-solid-state controllers... they're variable resistors which get really hot!
BTW, I've never liked the low/off/high switches... the grips, when in use, were always too cool or too hot.
I've never had problems with either part of this set up. However, I suggest you use HIGH TEMP RTV to put the grips back on over the heating elements.
<< Disclaimer: I'm not associated with CST but wish I was on commission. >>
Did you notice that the Spyder is yellow this week?
.
Last edited by ataDude; 10-29-2008 at 02:04 PM.
-
Originally Posted by ataDude
I have used Hyper-Lites << for brakes >> on most of my previous bikes. On my customized Valk, I even use them as << turn signals >>.
Other folks can see these from as far as a mile away. I opted to mount just one on the Spyder... high and in the middle... with a home-made "U bracket" made from .020" thick x 1" wide stainless. The mount is fairly "invisible" unless you look from underneath.
After complaints from some of my riding buds, I now "snip the green HL wire" so that they blink for about five seconds instead of constantly.
Thanks for all you postings! These mods show me that "do it yourself" mods can look good! Yours look GREAT!
-
Originally Posted by katnapper
Thanks for all you postings! These mods show me that "do it yourself" mods can look good! Yours look GREAT!
Thanks!
.
-
Evoluzion Oxygen Sensor Eliminator...
If you don't want to possibly affect your emissions, skip this post!
My Spyder as had an annoying lean idle surge of about 200 RPM since new... BUDS said nothing was wrong... everything in spec. Well, that wasn't the right answer.
I installed the Evoluzion O2 Eliminator this afternoon to see what it would do. The theory is that the "black box" tricks the Spyder's fuel injection processor into making the fuel mixture a little richer.
It apparently works... and works well. As soon as I fired the Spyder up, the idle was consistently at 1400 RPM with no more than a 50 RPM variation... all the way up through five bars on the temperature gauge. No more wild swings... it's not even noticeable now.
It's a relatively painless install if you read the instructions. I did not.... again. You'd think I'd learn... finally. I made it more work than necessary. This should be about a 30-45 minute job at worst.
The kit contains a plug for the O2 sensor in the header pipe. It is in the center of the bike just ahead of where the 90* muffler pipe connects to the header... and points toward the front of the bike. Remove the O2 sensor and insert the plug with the provided gasket/washer. No big deal. And yes, you do want to use the plug as Evoluzione has stated that the stock O2 sensor can be damaged by just using it as a plug. Package it up and store it in case you ever want to go back to stock configuration!
The electrical connection is accessible by removing the flat black plastic fender panel under the seat... the one that the two glossy side panels connect to... the one just above the tire... the one with the three Torx-head bolts on each side. You don't have to remove the side panels!
Once that single panel is removed, you'll find two stock plug connections behind the battery... one two-wire and one four-wire. The four-wire connection is the target. Unplug, plug in the eliminator, attach the eliminator to the frame with the provided 3M dual lock fastener, and button the bike back up. You're good to go.
Update 8/16/2008: Logged about 300 miles today in all driving conditions... slow, fast, city, country. The 200 rpm surge is back. However, the seat-of-pants dyno thinks the bike runs stronger.
Update 12/2008: The surge was caused by a faulty Gear Position Sensor. See this thread for what else was affected... and cured. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=7831
Update 8/20/2008: I uninstalled the eliminator today during a throttle-body sync. No difference. Using a TwinMax synchronizer, I found the TBs right on in terms of adjustment.
Project difficulty: On a scale of 1-10 (10 being most difficult), this is a "2" assuming you read the directions.
Happier motoring!
Click here for http://evoluzione.net/evo-cycle.htm
Last edited by ataDude; 03-28-2009 at 10:11 PM.
-
Originally Posted by ataDude
... if you haven't ordered your axle caps yet, you're missing a good trim piece.
As others have already stated, they're standard on the newer roadsters being built. The MSRP: A total of $7 and change including tax. Part numbers 705501022 and 705501081 as was mentioned in another thread by the pioneer. Thanks!
Ok, got the part numbers but where do I get them?
-
Originally Posted by katnapper
Ok, got the part numbers but where do I get them?
Your Can-Am dealer. I just sent mine an email and four days later I had 'em.
-
-
-
The Grip Puppies assist in softening and enlarging the grips for comfort. All were "in stock" from other bike mods. I'll use these until I decide what to do for heated grips. They are, however, a "bear" to install even using soap and water.
The nest time you want to install a set of Grip Puppies, try using compressed air. Simply put the nozzle in the open end while pushing the other end onto the existing grip. Then squeeze the remainder of the grip around the nozzle, and squeeze trigger to allow air to flow - lots of air to flow. The air blast will swell the grip puppy and allow you to push it onto the existing grip. Hope this helps.
-
Originally Posted by Spyderman62
...try using compressed air....
Thanks.
.
-
-
Originally Posted by brooklyn z
Nice mods.
Thanks!
.
-
Scotty - any other ideas? I checked the throttle bodies sync today with a TwinMax and they were right on. Even tweaked them a little but wound up right back at the factory settings.
BTW, read the BMW forums about their syncs. On the Spyder, there is no adjustment to sync the butterflies... they're on the same pivot rod that runs through both TBs. Also, there's only one pull cable to that pivot rod. And one butterfly "stop" for the same rod. I took pics and may get them up in the next couple of days.
I also replaced the plugs while I had it apart. Did you guys know that the plug on the right side can only be accessed by completely removing the airbox... not just the top cover? This is another one of those hidden, fairly-limited-space-thingies... like the handlebar cover... to get to the six Torx-head bolts holding the housing to the TBs.
Ideas? (Already done the processor reset multiple times).
Originally Posted by NancysToy
Sounds like a throttle body sychronization problem. The BMW R1100RT and R1150RT models are renowned for throttle surge. The best way around it is to make sure the throttle bodies are absolutely synchronized, and that the throttle cables are both exactly at zero play, or very close to it. There is more discussion of this on the BMW forums. Get somebody who is experienced with tuning throttle body injection, and have them play with it a bit. BTW, our Spyder has never shown a surge, but it has stock exhaust.
-Scotty
Last edited by ataDude; 08-20-2008 at 09:07 PM.
-
Originally Posted by ataDude
Scotty - any other ideas? I checked the throttle bodies sync today with a TwinMax and they were right on. Even tweaked them a little but wound up right back at the factory settings.
BTW, read the BMW forums about their syncs. On the Spyder, there is no adjustment to sync the butterflies... they're on the same pivot rod that runs through both TBs. Also, there's only one pull cable to that pivot rod. And one butterfly "stop" for the same rod. I took pics and may get them up in the next couple of days.
I also replaced the plugs while I had it apart. Did you guys know that the plug on the right side can only be accessed by completely removing the airbox... not just the top cover? This is another one of those hidden, fairly-limited-space-thingies... like the handlebar cover... to get to the six Torx-head bolts holding the housing to the TBs.
Ideas? (Already done the processor reset multiple times).
Boy, you have me on this one. I must admit that most of my experience is limited to carbs on vintage bikes, so I'm no expert. It is possible that it could be sensor related, I suppose. I understand the idle speed is controlled by the computer. I will say that not all of them do this. Ours runs very smoothly, and I am very familiar with throttle surge. I think you may need to keep leaning on the dealer, until they switch out all the possible culprits, or request assistance from BRP. Sorry I couldn't help more.
-Scotty
-
Originally Posted by NancysToy
Boy, you have me on this one. I must admit that most of my experience is limited to carbs on vintage bikes, so I'm no expert. It is possible that it could be sensor related, I suppose. I understand the idle speed is controlled by the computer. I will say that not all of them do this. Ours runs very smoothly, and I am very familiar with throttle surge. I think you may need to keep leaning on the dealer, until they switch out all the possible culprits, or request assistance from BRP. Sorry I couldn't help more.
-Scotty
Thanks! The only other thing I've come up with is one other example of bad header gaskets causing a similar symptom. I'll let the dealer check it again on the next service.
-
Thanks for sharing all your great mods and ideas
We all appreciate new ideas and new ways of doing things. It encourages me to tackle things I wouldn't otherwise do. Thanks again.
-
Thanks for sharing all your great mods and ideas
Thanks for sharing all your ideas and mods. It helps me to do other things that I wouldn't normally do. It's very encouraging. Thanks again.
-
Originally Posted by Ibeebuzn
Thanks for sharing all your ideas and mods. It helps me to do other things that I wouldn't normally do. It's very encouraging. Thanks again.
No problem. Most may be "original" for the Spyder but not for motorcycles. Some I have done repeatedly on the 27 or so bikes I've owned in the past.
.
-
Originally Posted by retread
I sit here and take notes, do comparisons, choose what I want, buy the stuff and add it to the shelves to keep cabin fever away this winter. (if I'm busy, I don't notice the snow and ice). I'm beginning to womder if I can afford all the things I'm finding. Ah, well, told the kids my will reads "being of sound mind and body, I spent it, go make your own!"
Funny - sounds like you need to get a snowmobile for the winter. I got my Spyder because it's the next best thing to snowmobiling. (Well, they're tied now)
-
NICE PIPE, HAVE ONE ON ORDER, CANT WAIT
-
Originally Posted by spydeebike
NICE PIPE, HAVE ONE ON ORDER, CANT WAIT
You might want to re-think that unless you're willing to have the pipe and muffler ceramic-coated. I can't keep paint on the pipe... even 1200* paint... and the paint on the muffler discolors at the front and rear from the heat.
.
-
Warrior pipe...
... Exhaust, chapter 4:
I just finished the cut/weld/grind necessary to install the Yamaha/Star Road Star Warrior exhaust... thanks to the ideas of Lamont and a few others!
This can is chrome plated... I prefer black... but it is suitable and different... I like different. I also had a Midnight Warrior (black) exhaust to experiment on... it had a small dent from shipping in just the wrong spot.
I also like the construction of the muffler... my crappy welding job is well hidden after the reassembly of the various muffler parts. < BJT and Lamont can't make fun of my welding... they can't see it! >
I used the Magic Man 90* pipe in conjunction with a standard 2.5" x 2.25" exhaust pipe reducer. The reducer was welded onto the muffler after chopping the stock inlet off with a die grinder.
Sound? ... very much like stock... it may, in fact, be a little quieter.
Size? It's probably a little bigger and heavier than stock... it was, after all, made for a 1700cc twin.
A hangar was made from 1/8" x 1" mild steel with holes on 8" centers. That then bolted right up to both the muffler and the frame without trouble.
A ride report will be forthcoming tomorrow after the high-temp RTV (joint seal) is cured.
Ride update, 19-Sep: I like it... will be a great touring muffler as it is quieter than the stock. It is about the size, however, of a 155mm howitzer.
I came out of a cafe today after a late breakfast to find 15 folks (the most I've seen so far) gathered around. Among the positive comments: "Man, that's a huge muffler".
So far, so good on the crappy welding job!
Last edited by ataDude; 10-29-2008 at 02:12 PM.
-
Very Helpful Member
Ahhh...... This brings back memories of when I first joined SpyderLovers and lamonster and others were just starting to add mods to their Spyders. Those Warrior pipes were all the rage for a short time on SpyderLovers.
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
|