Remeinder.. That "parking" brake - really isn't.

[Many brands]

I really a "Brake" - brake. ca-am dirt road 3.jpg

[Chupaca]

If your going to park like that it will not much matter... not a good road for belt drives....

[Bob Denman]

This may just be the time when the term, "Parking Break" applies!

[Cruzr Joe]

very poor photo shop

[Fatcycledaddy]

I really a "Brake" - brake. ca-am dirt road 3.jpg

And the point of this post is what?

[JimVonBaden]

If your going to park like that it will not much matter... not a good road for belt drives....

People keep saying that, but there are plenty of examples of belt drive bikes that survive dirt roads just fine. Is the Spyder particularly delicate?

[jaherbst]

Only if you get a rock between the belt and one of the sprocket's. New belts are $360, not sure about

sprockets.

Jack

[Bob Denman]

People keep saying that, but there are plenty of examples of belt drive bikes that survive dirt roads just fine. Is the Spyder particularly delicate?

The length of the belt, and it's lowness to the ground DOES make it a bit more susceptible to picking up road debris...

[Tazzel]

I really a "Brake" - brake. ca-am dirt road 3.jpg

Really, I cant move mine when my parking brake is engaged.

[Devious56]

Mine works pretty well, I've parked in some fairly steep parking lots. And, I live on a dirt/gravel road that is about a mile to my house from the paved road. I go up and down it almost daily and have for the past year with no troubles, and don't hesitate riding on dirt roads and across fields if I want.

David

[billybovine]

The Spyder is no different than any other drive belt equipped motorcycle. The belt is just as reliable and rugged and not likely to be damaged by gravel. No matter how much the fear mongers keep repeating that it is. Sure it can be damaged by a stone. A couple times a year someone posts just that, out of the 22,000 plus members on this board. So please curb the irrational fears. I drive a couple hundred miles on gravel every year and have yet to see any damage. I have several friends that do the same and no problems ether. Last year I was into a large Spyder dealership. I asked the service manager how many belts he has had to change because of damage from gravel. He said 1. Also added that the damage was so minor that it was recommended to the owner not to change it out. The owner decided to change it anyway. The exception to this is fresh tar and chip. The fresh tar glues the gravel to the sprockets. Grinding away on the belt. That should be avoided because failure is almost guaranteed.

[StanProff]

Really, I cant move mine when my parking brake is engaged.

Mine is not much of a parking brake. It is fine on level ground but on a slope I don't trust it. I have adjusted it and will check it out again soon.

[JimVonBaden]

Which is better, the electric or foot parking brake?

[Peter Aawen]

JVB, the 'park brake' units use the same devices (ie, the actual callipers, pads, & discs) & the mechanical components will make them 'grip' equally as hard once they are activated; so there is no real difference at all if the component/s between your foot/the switch & the brake applying either is/are working properly..... and they both work on an ON or OFF basis.

So if your park brake isn't working properly, either your rear brake calliper/pads aren't working properly (which means you'll have a dodgy application of the rear foot brake too) or your 'actuation device' (pedal or switch solenoid etc) isn't working properly!! Either or both actuation devices working correctly should mean your rear wheel won't move much at all once the park brake is set to on!!

[Bob Denman]

They are both just different versions of the same song...

[JimVonBaden]

JVB, the 'park brake' units use the same devices (ie, the actual callipers, pads, & discs) & the mechanical components will make them 'grip' equally as hard once they are activated; so there is no real difference at all if the component/s between your foot/the switch & the brake applying either is/are working properly..... and they both work on an ON or OFF basis.

So if your park brake isn't working properly, either your rear brake calliper/pads aren't working properly (which means you'll have a dodgy application of the rear foot brake too) or your 'actuation device' (pedal or switch solenoid etc) isn't working properly!! Either or both actuation devices working correctly should mean your rear wheel won't move much at all once the park brake is set to on!!

Thanks. Mine is working fine, I was just curious if there were differences, or adjustments.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Mine is not much of a parking brake. It is fine on level ground but on a slope I don't trust it. I have adjusted it and will check it out again soon.

What year is your Spyder? The 2014 models had a problem with the parking brake motor developing slack between the shaft and pulley. Mine was replaced under warranty during Spyderfest last spring. It quit holding altogether. Adjusting didn't help.

[youngers]

mmmmm , now how about , parking brake , plus put it in first gear , when you cut the machine off ?

[Buckeye Bleau]

The Spyder is no different than any other drive belt equipped motorcycle. The belt is just as reliable and rugged and not likely to be damaged by gravel. No matter how much the fear mongers keep repeating that it is. Sure it can be damaged by a stone. A couple times a year someone posts just that, out of the 22,000 plus members on this board. So please curb the irrational fears. I drive a couple hundred miles on gravel every year and have yet to see any damage. I have several friends that do the same and no problems ether. Last year I was into a large Spyder dealership. I asked the service manager how many belts he has had to change because of damage from gravel. He said 1. Also added that the damage was so minor that it was recommended to the owner not to change it out. The owner decided to change it anyway. The exception to this is fresh tar and chip. The fresh tar glues the gravel to the sprockets. Grinding away on the belt. That should be avoided because failure is almost guaranteed.

BRAVO, another advocate for the positives of the Spyder.
We will not let the whiners bring us down!

Joe

[meljr]

I live on a dirt road so there's no avoiding it. I check the belt for rocks, or whatever may get in there. A few years ago, I was riding in Canada. Many of their roads are dirt. People there drive fast, very fast on these roads. In Canada I saw many Spyders, duh yea since that's where they come from. People definitely love their Spyders there. The dirt roads did not slow them down. They were passing me like I was standing still, so I picked up the speed. I did it slowly for fear I'd slide off. They have nice dirt roads, looked like something is mixed with the dirt though. Not like this road I live on, where I can barely go 5 MPH without bouncing off the bike.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

mmmmm , now how about , parking brake , plus put it in first gear , when you cut the machine off ?

Hydraulic clutch on SE models is not engaged when stopped.

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[wanderingman]

The Spyder is no different than any other drive belt equipped motorcycle. The belt is just as reliable and rugged and not likely to be damaged by gravel. No matter how much the fear mongers keep repeating that it is. Sure it can be damaged by a stone. A couple times a year someone posts just that, out of the 22,000 plus members on this board. So please curb the irrational fears. I drive a couple hundred miles on gravel every year and have yet to see any damage. I have several friends that do the same and no problems ether. Last year I was into a large Spyder dealership. I asked the service manager how many belts he has had to change because of damage from gravel. He said 1. Also added that the damage was so minor that it was recommended to the owner not to change it out. The owner decided to change it anyway. The exception to this is fresh tar and chip. The fresh tar glues the gravel to the sprockets. Grinding away on the belt. That should be avoided because failure is almost guaranteed.

I am very quick to agree with this. Actually this applies to all vehicles. Tar and chip got on my truck. I had to travel on it for 2 or three miles. Must have added 100's of pounds and impossible to get off from many areas such as inside of bumpers.