Compressor/Airbag system

[trikermutha]

And I remember when he hit 60k..

Now back to the thread..Really good reading/Discussion..

[Windagetray]

When my air comp. failed this summer I could air up the air bag with the valve under the seat but as soon as I started the machine it would exhaust all the air...With the help of someone on this forum, they said to unplug the single wire going to the dump valve...Unplugging this wire required the use of most of my four letter word vocabulary, but it worked...I was able to air up the system and ride until my dealer made the repairs...

Over the winter I plan on making a disconnect that is accessible under the seat so when this happens the next time I can easily unplug this and air up the bag manually with the small air comp. I carry in the trunk...

If any company is going to make a retrofit kit for our Spyders I would like to have one in stock for the next failure...Please keep me advised...

larryd 2014 RTS

Anyone know if there is a fuse that would prevent discharge of manually input air from the A/B system from the Spyder's control of the system without disabling something else? Disabling the compressor would be OK because we assume if you are adding air manually, the compressor is shot anyhow.

[larryd]

Anyone know if there is a fuse that would prevent discharge of manually input air from the A/B system from the Spyder's control of the system without disabling something else? Disabling the compressor would be OK because we assume if you are adding air manually, the compressor is shot anyhow.

Windagetray, You have a PM...

[oldguyinTX]

My compressor died last August, and both it and the (leaking) bag were replaced under warranty. The new compressor died in late September. Back to the dealer. He orders a new one, installs it and guess what - IT'S DEFECTIVE! I mean, really? So, he has ordered yet another one which he will test before he installs it. I have found during 3 years owning this bike that there are a LOT of cheap parts from both China & Mexico on these machines. Yet we pay top dollar for both these machines & OEM parts. Come on, BRP, get a clue.

[Windagetray]

My compressor died last August, and both it and the (leaking) bag were replaced under warranty. The new compressor died in late September. Back to the dealer. He orders a new one, installs it and guess what - IT'S DEFECTIVE! I mean, really? So, he has ordered yet another one which he will test before he installs it. I have found during 3 years owning this bike that there are a LOT of cheap parts from both China & Mexico on these machines. Yet we pay top dollar for both these machines & OEM parts. Come on, BRP, get a clue.

I agree 100%. I have spent WAY too much money on my machine to have to basically buy it again IMMEDIATELY upon the warranty expiring. I've always been a believer in the thought that if a product is so poorly made or made of such poor quality components that and "extended warranty" make sense... what you have there is a product that us such a piece of crap that no one in their right mind should buy it anyhow. My 2014 RTS SE6 is exactly such a product. Why?

Riding 2 up on the STOCK bike was HORRIBLE with the front end bottoming out and the sloppy handling. It's nothing that appropriate front shock adjusters and an appropriately sized anti-sway bar wouldn't fix. SO, many hundreds of dollars and many after-market parts later, it's handling and riding the way it should have from the beginning.

Rear tire dead after 6,000 miles/1 season of riding and dealer will do nothing but install the same crappy tire for MANY hundreds of $$$'s

Drive belt- stone punch through because BRP doesn't have it properly protected. With 2 front tires positioned as they are it is LIKELY that stones shooting off the inside of the right front tire head directly to the belt-sprocket junction. DUH. Dealer does NOTHING. I spend $300+ on a new belt plus and after market "missing belt guard" which is very good but, alas not good enough. SO....looks like I'm spending another $300+ on a new belt and then must engineer a perfect belt guard.

The dealer from which I bought my brand new Spyder claims to have the laser alignment system. I don't know if they bothered to use it on brand new Spyders leaving their dealership but, after 8,000 miles, the front tires are cupping badly. I don't know what will have to be done about this but, once again, I'm sure it will cost ME more money and time making it right.

The crappy air bag system has died and once again am I out riding my new Spyder? NOPE. It sits until I get the HUNDREDS of dollars of new part to include upgrades and rock guards, better hose and connectors, etc. because BRP FAILED to make a quality machine.

HELL, I can hardly wait for the front windshield bracket to crack, for the computer to start throwing all kinds of crazy codes I'll have to spend THOUSANDS of dollars to have a dealer track down, to get all kinds of crazy "mystery vibrations", for it to start overheating or having the Throttle Pos sensor die, or start hearing those "crunching gears", or the speakers to die.......

I really like riding it WHEN....I can actually ride it. When I'm not saving up money for needed parts or waiting for mail-order parts or waiting until I can devote time to making my Spyder "right". I sorta assumed that's what my $30,000.00 was getting me. If I could go back and advise myself on what to buy, I would advise myself NEVER buy one of these machines. I waited a long time....salivating at how cool they looked and "supposedly" performed. I would have thought all the "bugs" were worked out by now. NOT!!

[Ben Burped]

I agree 100%. I have spent WAY too much money on my machine to have to basically buy it again IMMEDIATELY upon the warranty expiring. I've always been a believer in the thought that if a product is so poorly made or made of such poor quality components that and "extended warranty" make sense... what you have there is a product that us such a piece of crap that no one in their right mind should buy it anyhow. My 2014 RTS SE6 is exactly such a product. Why?

Riding 2 up on the STOCK bike was HORRIBLE with the front end bottoming out and the sloppy handling. It's nothing that appropriate front shock adjusters and an appropriately sized anti-sway bar wouldn't fix. SO, many hundreds of dollars and many after-market parts later, it's handling and riding the way it should have from the beginning.

Rear tire dead after 6,000 miles/1 season of riding and dealer will do nothing but install the same crappy tire for MANY hundreds of $$$'s

Drive belt- stone punch through because BRP doesn't have it properly protected. With 2 front tires positioned as they are it is LIKELY that stones shooting off the inside of the right front tire head directly to the belt-sprocket junction. DUH. Dealer does NOTHING. I spend $300+ on a new belt plus and after market "missing belt guard" which is very good but, alas not good enough. SO....looks like I'm spending another $300+ on a new belt and then must engineer a perfect belt guard.

The dealer from which I bought my brand new Spyder claims to have the laser alignment system. I don't know if they bothered to use it on brand new Spyders leaving their dealership but, after 8,000 miles, the front tires are cupping badly. I don't know what will have to be done about this but, once again, I'm sure it will cost ME more money and time making it right.

The crappy air bag system has died and once again am I out riding my new Spyder? NOPE. It sits until I get the HUNDREDS of dollars of new part to include upgrades and rock guards, better hose and connectors, etc. because BRP FAILED to make a quality machine.

HELL, I can hardly wait for the front windshield bracket to crack, for the computer to start throwing all kinds of crazy codes I'll have to spend THOUSANDS of dollars to have a dealer track down, to get all kinds of crazy "mystery vibrations", for it to start overheating or having the Throttle Pos sensor die, or start hearing those "crunching gears", or the speakers to die.......

I really like riding it WHEN....I can actually ride it. When I'm not saving up money for needed parts or waiting for mail-order parts or waiting until I can devote time to making my Spyder "right". I sorta assumed that's what my $30,000.00 was getting me. If I could go back and advise myself on what to buy, I would advise myself NEVER buy one of these machines. I waited a long time....salivating at how cool they looked and "supposedly" performed. I would have thought all the "bugs" were worked out by now. NOT!!

This is only a suggestion, but I suggest that you consider selling the motorcycle. It is not giving you pleasure and is causing you emotional pain. No machine is worth what you are going through. You made an assumption about a $30,000.00 machine and it apparently hasn't lived up to your expectations. Face it. It's time to sell.

[Windagetray]

This is only a suggestion, but I suggest that you consider selling the motorcycle. It is not giving you pleasure and is causing you emotional pain. No machine is worth what you are going through. You made an assumption about a $30,000.00 machine and it apparently hasn't lived up to your expectations. Face it. It's time to sell.

LOL! NO....it did NOT live up to my expectations and I sense that MANY on this board are not 100% satisfied with the effort, engineering, techniques and materials BRP used to create them. BUT....I just about have it re-manufactured to where it SHOULD have been in the first place. Had I know then what I know now, the dealer could have kept the damn thing. By next spring after all the emotional, and financial pain, I'll have the machine for which I THOUGHT I had already paid! No time soon....but ONE DAY...someone is going to be able to buy one hell of a good 2014 RTS!

People should know that one of these machines will end up costing them at least 30% more than the purchase price within the first three years of ownership. For what it's worth...do YOU think my machine (assuming I have not lied or exaggerated about the misgivings) would be living up to YOUR expectations?

[Roadster Renovations]

LOL! NO....it did NOT live up to my expectations and I sense that MANY on this board are not 100% satisfied with the effort, engineering, techniques and materials BRP used to create them. BUT....I just about have it re-manufactured to where it SHOULD have been in the first place. Had I know then what I know now, the dealer could have kept the damn thing. By next spring after all the emotional, and financial pain, I'll have the machine for which I THOUGHT I had already paid! No time soon....but ONE DAY...someone is going to be able to buy one hell of a good 2014 RTS!

People should know that one of these machines will end up costing them at least 30% more than the purchase price within the first three years of ownership. For what it's worth...do YOU think my machine (assuming I have not lied or exaggerated about the misgivings) would be living up to YOUR expectations?

Running my own automotive shop since 1999, I have seen some really pitiful engineering from some car manufacturers and it seems they all will use shortcuts and less-than-the-best quality parts. So, it's not uncommon.

I just purchased a '17 F3 Daytona AFTER having owned a '14 RT for over 2 years. Even knowing that yeah, they come with crappy tires, the side case hinges aren't as strong as they should be, and the airbag system, don't get me started..... I bought because that 1330 engine and transmission have been rock solid. I can fix and make better the other stuff. I want the strong Can Am frame, and that awesome power plant and transmission. That is something I can build on. That's why I bought Can Am again. And I would do it again in a heartbeat. They put the quality where it counts.

[bostondick]

I solved the problem for about .30 cents and no more problem. I bypassed the compressor and run a air line from the schrade valve to the air bag, not a big job.
I can adjust the air to whatever pressure I want but normally run at 85# as I run two up 99% of time. I never have to adjust it the whole riding season. I just did it on my friends 2012 RTL and he is very pleased. I purchased a compressor at Fred Myers for $15.00 and works great and also good for tire emergencys.
Anybody interested I will explain everything to do.
Roger

Hi roger i have a 2012 rt on second bad compressor, i want to do the bypass you describe can you post or email me how you did it. Thanks Dick

[Saluda]

....... I bought because that 1330 engine and transmission have been rock solid. I can fix and make better the other stuff. I want the strong Can Am frame, and that awesome power plant and transmission. That is something I can build on. That's why I bought Can Am again. And I would do it again in a heartbeat. They put the quality where it counts.

The quality should not end there, if it really does then they should reduce their price. Unfortunately today quality is being sacrificed for profit. Things are not made to last as they used to.
Shouldn't be too hard on that person with complaints (issues). I'd be upset too. Selling, you usually take a hit.

[harrisrljc]

I solved the problem for about .30 cents and no more problem. I bypassed the compressor and run a air line from the schrade valve to the air bag, not a big job.
I can adjust the air to whatever pressure I want but normally run at 85# as I run two up 99% of time. I never have to adjust it the whole riding season. I just did it on my friends 2012 RTL and he is very pleased. I purchased a compressor at Fred Myers for $15.00 and works great and also good for tire emergencys.
Anybody interested I will explain everything to do.
Roger

I have a 2014 RTs and I'm having the same problem. I assume the procedure should be somewhat similar. Please tell me how you did yours.
thanks

[irvin48]

can anyone verify that brp has a new updated compressor out now? i dont know what
the old part # was, but the dealer says my friend just got his 4th compressor in his
14[one new one was even junk] and brp told him it is a new design and improved compressor.
i sure would like to get the facts. i too put docs rock guard on. cheap insurance!--irv

[k7xi]

Well, the compressor died. And you know, the warranty expired about 3 months ago. I watched it being done on you tube a few times. So I ordered a Viair 098. Looking at the specs, it looked like a better fit than the 097. Anyway I took the bike all apart on Saturday and finished on Sunday. Now I work pretty slow and don't start early, so I think it could be done in a day. Hard part seemed to be getting the new compressor to fit in the rubber while holding the 2 clamps while trying to put a bolt through while standing on your head. 3 handed monkey stuff. I did have to change the compressor output, the wire connection and had to use longer bolts to hold the compressor in the bracket, just as stated in the videos. Almost had a heart attack until I put it in gear and released the e-brake.......working now!! My thanks to all of you who went down the path ahead of me.

[Roadster Renovations]

Hey, guys, I put a $75 Viair 98C air compressor on my 14 RT in early 2015. I had a pin hole leak in the bottom of the air bag. I put 4oz of Green Slime, theyn put a Air Ryde Rock Armour cup on the bottom of the airbag. Problem solved. Still running after 2 years and 30k miles. Works like brand new.

[larryd]

We just finished our first two days of riding this year and my BRP 2nd air compressor is not sounding good...I want to order a Viair compressor but I see there are two different part number compressors being used...What is the difference between the 97C and the 98C??? One better than the other???

[Grandpot]

I don't know the difference, but the 97c worked for me.

[irvin48]

mine is going in this week for the orange screen of death. the warranty[brp]has 3 weeks left. put away working
and first ride this year its gone.

[Roadster Renovations]

They are both the same. The 98C comes with an Omega bracket is the only difference I see. Need to change the outlet orientation 180 degrees.

[sboxster986]

Did you ever find out how to connect the schrade valve to the air bag. I see a couple have asked someone to explain but find no one that has told us how to do this "easy" fix. Sure would like to know. TIA

[Peter Aawen]

Sboxster, if you lift the seat you can see the Schrader valve. Underneath that fitting, there's an air hose that runs pretty much straight down to the air bag, only there's a tee fitting part way down that length of hose which tees in the compressor so it can add air & also connect the release valve so it can bleed excess air out when triggered.

All you need to do in order to by-pass all that and connect up the schrader valve directly to the air bag is to replace that tee fitting with a straight thru connector; or better yet, simply replace the entire OE length of hose, tee and all with a one piece length of hose about 2-300mm long - going straight from the schrader valve direct to the top of the air bag. You can go in via removing the RH side tupperware, or by dropping the rear tire & removing the mud-guard liner, altho some have said they've managed without doing either.... Regardless, it's really a Simple as task.....

You will probably also want to unplug the electrical connectors to the compressor & the bleed valve too, just so they don't keep on trying to do their thing despite no longer being connected into the air line between the schrader valve & the air bag. Job done.

Cheers

[larryd]

Just Like Peter Aawen said...Yes, you'll need to unplug the dump valve...