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Active Member
Gas cap issue...suggestions?
Stopping for gas has become an adventure with my F3-T..
It takes a lot of downward force to firmly close the cap to be able to remove the key. I have tried different positions with my thumbs to exert downward pressure but it is always difficult.
I have read an older thread on this issue but no "fix" was posted. Any suggestions?
Last edited by Vegasf3t; 09-24-2016 at 11:17 PM.
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Very Active Member
Let's see....
Many have put some silicon lube on the seal to help. I have always found two thumbs, one on either side of the key towards the seat will pop the key to center so you can remove it...do not try closing while holding the key. From your explanation your not so try the lube...
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Originally Posted by Chupaca
Many have put some silicon lube on the seal to help. I have always found two thumbs, one on either side of the key towards the seat will pop the key to center so you can remove it...do not try closing while holding the key. From your explanation your not so try the lube...
Thanks! Will try this. Hard to believe BRP hasn't replaced these caps.
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On the otherhand you really don't want fuel leaking down to your crotch area....gives a new meaning to crotch rocket...😲😆
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Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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Active Member
I sprayed silicone on my gas cap as well which makes things work much easier. Ive also sprayed silicone on the glove box latch and the Saddle bag latches. BRP should include a can with the owners manual
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Mine's the same, I use the two thumbs technique. Works every time. TBH, a slightly stiff gas cap is not what i consider a major issue.
| 2015 F3-S | Heated Grips | USB Ports | RAM X-Grip | RT Sway Bar | '2 Up' Rear Shock | SHAD Bag Kit | Oxford Aqua 50 Dry Bag | BRP Rider Backrest |
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Question: is this a problem that disappears over time?
Do the parts eventually "wear-in", and start working together a bit easier?
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Originally Posted by monkeyboymorton
Mine's the same, I use the two thumbs technique. Works every time. TBH, a slightly stiff gas cap is not what i consider a major issue.
If it was just "slightly" stiff I would be happy.
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Very Active Member
The problem is not the rubber seal. Its the sliding latch bar in the lock mechanism. Spray silicone lube on the latch bar and work the key back and forth to work the lube into the slide mechanism. It will work smooth as can be. Mine works smooth for a few months and it needs to be lubed again. I am trying some newer high tech teflon based spray lube now and its been on there for 6 months and have not had to re-apply yet.
Do NOT use the key to attempt to close the fuel cap. Push down ONLY on the cap, the lock will latch and then allow you to remove the key.
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Baloo is my name. Spyders are my game. Well, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, yes, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, I mean a doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee-dee-doo. And, well, now. Ha ha! What have we here?
2020 Petrol Blue Metallic RTL
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Update
Applied lube to gasket and latch Now firm but doable!
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Sailkote
Originally Posted by jcthorne
The problem is not the rubber seal. Its the sliding latch bar in the lock mechanism. Spray silicone lube on the latch bar and work the key back and forth to work the lube into the slide mechanism. It will work smooth as can be. Mine works smooth for a few months and it needs to be lubed again. I am trying some newer high tech teflon based spray lube now and its been on there for 6 months and have not had to re-apply yet.
Do NOT use the key to attempt to close the fuel cap. Push down ONLY on the cap, the lock will latch and then allow you to remove the key.
If there is a marine store around where you live, get a lube called Sailkote, it's a dry lube designed for sailboats. I've used it on a number of things exposed to the weather and it outlasts anything else. It's pricey, but worth it.
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In time
Mine was really difficult in the beginning but over a couple of months it has eased up A Lot!
White 2013 Spyder RT Limited. BajaRon Swaybar, Custom Dynamic Third Brake Light. Ultimate Custom Black and White seat with driver and passenger back rest. Gloryder Led Wheel lights.Custom Dynamics Led Bright sides, Amber and Red Fender lights, and Saddle Bag Bright sides.
2016 F3 Limited Intense Red Pearl. Lidlox, BRP Driver Back Rest, BRP Passenger Back Rest,Fog Lights, GPS, Signature Light! Custom Dynamics LED Bright Sides, Amber and Red Fender lights, and Saddle Bag Bright Sides.
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What I do....
I don't know whether or not the OP is doing this but I was having a similar problem with my F3S.
When I close the cap now I turn the key clockwise with my right hand while pushing down on the
cap with my left hand....it's still a two-handed operation but it works OK. I also have lubed the lock mechanism
with silicone spray and smeared a little light grease (Vaseline petroleum jelly) around the sealing ring.
Talking about getting gas in your crotch....I managed that on one of my bikes three hours from home and it's not a pleasant thing
to do!! My "man bits" were very, very sore for a week!
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I have a F3-S and have had the issue since day1. My trick is with my left thumb push down on the left side of the key hole as hard as possible and to turn the key with my right hand. Seems to be an issue with the left side of the key mechanism.
God bless those who serve/served our country!
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Obviously this is not an isolated issue. I'm left wondering about the quality control at BRO. Did they not realize that this was a problem? For $25,000 I shouldn't have to troubleshoot a new bike .
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gas cap problem on 2015 F3S
I have the same problem closing the gas cap. It took two persons to close it. Will try the lubrication on the slide.
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Originally Posted by stevea41
I have the same problem closing the gas cap. It took two persons to close it. Will try the lubrication on the slide.
Just didn't get it the first two times after refueling my f3s is all I had to do was press firmly down on the cap at the lower portion at the latch area with both thumbs until the slight click is heard. Has worked EVERYTIME since then. Before this was realized, I thought it would be necessary to get some help from another customer because it was so difficult. TRY it the next time and share your thought/success.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Vegasf3t
Obviously this is not an isolated issue. I'm left wondering about the quality control at BRO. Did they not realize that this was a problem? For $25,000 I shouldn't have to troubleshoot a new bike .
I just don't get it. Since when is simple lubrication of a mechanical part so it works smoothly a QC problem or the need for troubleshooting a new bike? Its simple and basic maintenance.
I lubricate the fuel cap on every F3 that I perform a annual or oil change on.
It IS unfortunate that the dealer service departments are so incapable of handling basic items like this.
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Active Member
simple solution
Originally Posted by jcthorne
I just don't get it. Since when is simple lubrication of a mechanical part so it works smoothly a QC problem or the need for troubleshooting a new bike? Its simple and basic maintenance.
I lubricate the fuel cap on every F3 that I perform a annual or oil change on.
It IS unfortunate that the dealer service departments are so incapable of handling basic items like this.
It is an issue that requires attention, so it might annoy some people. But I agree that the fix is so minor that it should just become part of regular maintenance.
I was part of the crowd that was cursing the design, till I lubed the sliding mechanism. Now I don't think about it.
Last edited by Yukonf3; 10-01-2016 at 11:00 PM.
2015 F3 SM6
Windscreen, bags, backrest, cowl, BajaRon anti-sway bar
Two Bros exhaust
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