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Random Stalling?
I think this is my first question to the forum so I will try to do it right and not droll on..
I have a 2010 RT/SE5. Odo shows around 25K miles now, had about 16K on it when I purchased it. I have not replaced anything other than oil and filters since owning it (about 3 years). The fuel cap was a recall item that was replaced.
Yesterday when riding home from work, it began losing power quickly and even though the throttle responded, it was still coasting down to a stop. Got it down to 3rd and the engine quit all together. Pulled off, applied brake and it started back up, nothing unusual in the display. Downshifted to 1st and began home again. About 5 minutes later, same thing happened. It seemed like getting it into 3rd during downshifting actually coincided with the engine shutting off. Restarted, downshifted, took off for home. Got the rest of the way home with no other issues. That was about 20 minute ride at that point.
I checked it at home for codes (running at idle, holding mode and selector simultaneously while depressing turn signal) and nothing came up. Blank screen.
I have worked on a number of two-wheelers but have not tore into this tryke much as of yet. Any ideas or suggestions? Has anyone seen this before? I looked through the forums and nothing jumped out at me.
Thanks all.
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Very Active Member
Fuel filter? Also check the vacuum hoses on the throttle bodies and the rubber boot between the throttle bodies and the engine.
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
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I'm guessing that the vacuum hoses are the culprit... At six years old: they're more than due to be replaced.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Bob Denman
I'm guessing that the vacuum hoses are the culprit... At six years old: they're more than due to be replaced.
It's time to do both the fuel filter and vacuum hoses. So, while your in there, you can give the throttle body boot a visual inspection.
Doug
2023 RT Limited, RT 622, BUDS/BUD2 Megatech/Megatronic
”Freedom is not a loophole”
F4 Customs SWCV, Ultimate, Lidlox, Adjustable Side Vents, Leather Like Grips, SS Grills, Centramatic, Garmin XT2, BajaRon Original Sway Bar w/ Lamonster links, P238
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Visual inspection is the best you can do like others have suggest. Check out for loose wire also. Good luck and let us know.
2012 Spyder RT SE5 Brake pedal mod
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Originally Posted by Bob Denman
I'm guessing that the vacuum hoses are the culprit... At six years old: they're more than due to be replaced.
My 2010 Rt did the same thing as you described and it was cracked vacuum hoses. Once I replaced them no more problems
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Active Member
+1 on the vacuum hoses. I had the same problem, and both hoses were cracked all the way through.
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Jive
Beckley, WV
2012 Pure Magnesium Metallic Spyder RTS SM5, SpyderPops Belt Guard
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Very Active Member
If it is the vacuum hoses make sure you replace them with Silicone tubes as they last a lot longer than the stock hoses. Also make sure the new hoses are the same length as the old ones.
2017 F3 Limited in Intense Red Pearl
2008 Triumph Rocket (SOLD)
2002 Honda VTX 1800 C ( SOLD)
2014 Triumph Thunderbird Commander
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Very Active Member
Little checking..👀
20150726_160909.jpg Tend to look good if not really bad
20150726_160929.jpg but if you bend them you will see the cracking and this is where the leaking begins. Replacing the fuel filter is a good idea as well debris collected can be shuffled on bumpy roads and decrease the fuel flow....
Gene and Ilana De Laney
Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
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