Before the heat recall on my 2013 RTL, I had deleted the CAT, wrapped the headers & bypass pipe, and shielded the fuel tank and the hottest panels (including the two under the seat) with heat reflective tape. Doing this rectified the worst of the original heat. So after the recall of last summer, all of my heat problems were history! - EXCEPT for that pesky dragon's mouth down by my right foot - especially when I placed my feet up on the highway pegs.
But no more.... The right foot heat is GONE!! Here's how I finally conquered it (with a bit of help from my dealer):
I had already added the 2014 radiator grill with the lower block-off plate. But while it made the Spyder look nice, it did little to stop any foot heat. The 2013 RT is unique, among 998 RT's, in that it has a radiator fan shroud that is completely enclosed and open only at the "dragon hole" forcing 100% of the radiator heat out those two vents. Therefore simply removing the bottom skid plate and adding block-off plates over the vents doesn't work because the heat would still be blocked from going out the bottom. You can see that fan shroud in the picture below (the holes in it are new)...
So what I did was this.. (The following steps correspond to the attached pictures below in the order which they appear. You can click on each of them to see the larger pictures.
1. I had my dealer remove the back half of the right bottom skid plate - the part that was directly under this fan compartment. This picture is taken from under the bike. (Dealer did it because it is difficult for me to work under the bike.)
2. Then I had them cut eight holes - approx. 2" wide - in the floor of the fan shroud, so the heat could escape through those holes, and then down through the removed portion of the skid plate. This is now how 90% of the radiator heat escapes. There is no access for it to get back into the engine compartment. Other than these eight holes, the shroud is still intact.
3. I then took my 2014 grill and molded a sheet of aluminum to the back grill contour. The aluminum blocking plate was then painted flat black and riveted to the back side of the grill. At the same time, I trimmed a small section off the bottom edge of the bottom block-off plate to allow the remaining 10% of heat to escape below it (which also happens to be slightly below the floorboard). Pictures 3 & 4 below show the front and back of this grill.
4. Picture 5 below shows what the covered grill looks like with it in place, before re-installing the right middle side panel.
The finished result, as viewed from the outside, is shown in the top picture of this post. I now can ride all summer, and even put my feet up on the pegs, without my right foot and ankle burning up.
Before the heat recall on my 2013 RTL, I had deleted the CAT, wrapped the headers & bypass pipe, and shielded the fuel tank and the hottest panels (including the two under the seat) with heat reflective tape. Doing this rectified the worst of the original heat. So after the recall of last summer, all of my heat problems were history! - EXCEPT for that pesky dragon's mouth down by my right foot - especially when I placed my feet up on the highway pegs.
But no more.... The right foot heat is GONE!! Here's how I finally conquered it (with a bit of help from my dealer):
I had already added the 2014 radiator grill with the lower block-off plate. But while it made the Spyder look nice, it did little to stop any foot heat. The 2013 RT is unique, among 998 RT's, in that it has a radiator fan shroud that is completely enclosed and open only at the "dragon hole" forcing 100% of the radiator heat out those two vents. Therefore simply removing the bottom skid plate and adding block-off plates over the vents doesn't work because the heat would still be blocked from going out the bottom. You can see that fan shroud in the picture below (the holes in it are new)...
So what I did was this.. (The following steps correspond to the attached pictures below in the order which they appear. You can click on each of them to see the larger pictures.
1. I had my dealer remove the back half of the right bottom skid plate - the part that was directly under this fan compartment. This picture is taken from under the bike. (Dealer did it because it is difficult for me to work under the bike.)
2. Then I had them cut eight holes - approx. 2" wide - in the floor of the fan shroud, so the heat could escape through those holes, and then down through the removed portion of the skid plate. This is now how 90% of the radiator heat escapes. There is no access for it to get back into the engine compartment. Other than these eight holes, the shroud is still intact.
3. I then took my 2014 grill and molded a sheet of aluminum to the back grill contour. The aluminum blocking plate was then painted flat black and riveted to the back side of the grill. At the same time, I trimmed a small section off the bottom edge of the bottom block-off plate to allow the remaining 10% of heat to escape below it (which also happens to be slightly below the floorboard). Pictures 3 & 4 below show the front and back of this grill.
4. Picture 5 below shows what the covered grill looks like with it in place, before re-installing the right middle side panel.
The finished result, as viewed from the outside, is shown in the top picture of this post. I now can ride all summer, and even put my feet up on the pegs, without my right foot and ankle burning up.
.
I purchased my RT brand new last year no miles. I have done very similar mods on mine. I cut a large rectangle hole in the same area you had the dealer cut those 8 holes. I removed the bottom skid plates completely. Easier for maintenance not having them there. I blocked both holes where you put the '14 plate. I did something different, but looks almost the same really. You have commented on my posts before for my boiling fuel issue post recall. I appreciate the input. I currently have my bike at a different dealer for those fuel vapor issues. EVERY dealer I spoke with in my area of Virginia absolutely WILL NOT modify the Spyder in any way shape or form that is not BRP approved. These are not BRP approved solutions, according to BRP and every dealer I spoke with. I was just told by the dealer that with the new EPA rules around the corner there will be random checks by police enforcement making sure there is a catalytic converter mounted on the bike. Also proper stickers on the frame. In addition, possible emission checks at the dmv upon registration renewal. No removal of cat or pipe wrapping is permitted. This changes the overall emission performance of the motor according to BRP. I still get a little hot foot with my summer riding shoes. My thicker multi season boots are better. The EPA is cracking down and BRP is taking it seriously. I hope and pray this new dealer finds something wrong with the recall work from the other dealer. He told me he has never had anyone come back for a fuel vapor issue after he has done the recall work. Just have to wait and see.
.
...The EPA is cracking down and BRP is taking it seriously. I hope and pray this new dealer finds something wrong with the recall work from the other dealer. He told me he has never had anyone come back for a fuel vapor issue after he has done the recall work. Just have to wait and see.
You should ABSOLUTELY have no boiling fuel/fuel vapor issue after the recall. You may want to have your new maintenance dealer print you out a copy of that recall for you to read. You will see that the entire fuel system was changed in order to fix the problem.
As for new EPA rulings and random spot checks, I have to say that I'm a little skeptical about that. But interviews I have seen from various members of the BRP design staff lead me to believe that they do take "greenhouse gasses" rather seriously. I'm inclined to believe, however, that one farting cow is probably more dangerous to the environment than one motorcycle without a catalytic converter. That is precisely why, when I had my dealer remove my cat, I also pledged to eat more beef. I believe it should be a net gain.
Rob,
What is the bronze or gold looking colored adjustment thing by your radiator hose used for? Their is one on each side of my 2013, and I was wondering what does this adjust, or what is it used for?
Originally Posted by robmorg
Before the heat recall on my 2013 RTL, I had deleted the CAT, wrapped the headers & bypass pipe, and shielded the fuel tank and the hottest panels (including the two under the seat) with heat reflective tape. Doing this rectified the worst of the original heat. So after the recall of last summer, all of my heat problems were history! - EXCEPT for that pesky dragon's mouth down by my right foot - especially when I placed my feet up on the highway pegs.
But no more.... The right foot heat is GONE!! Here's how I finally conquered it (with a bit of help from my dealer):
I had already added the 2014 radiator grill with the lower block-off plate. But while it made the Spyder look nice, it did little to stop any foot heat. The 2013 RT is unique, among 998 RT's, in that it has a radiator fan shroud that is completely enclosed and open only at the "dragon hole" forcing 100% of the radiator heat out those two vents. Therefore simply removing the bottom skid plate and adding block-off plates over the vents doesn't work because the heat would still be blocked from going out the bottom. You can see that fan shroud in the picture below (the holes in it are new)...
So what I did was this.. (The following steps correspond to the attached pictures below in the order which they appear. You can click on each of them to see the larger pictures.
1. I had my dealer remove the back half of the right bottom skid plate - the part that was directly under this fan compartment. This picture is taken from under the bike. (Dealer did it because it is difficult for me to work under the bike.)
2. Then I had them cut eight holes - approx. 2" wide - in the floor of the fan shroud, so the heat could escape through those holes, and then down through the removed portion of the skid plate. This is now how 90% of the radiator heat escapes. There is no access for it to get back into the engine compartment. Other than these eight holes, the shroud is still intact.
3. I then took my 2014 grill and molded a sheet of aluminum to the back grill contour. The aluminum blocking plate was then painted flat black and riveted to the back side of the grill. At the same time, I trimmed a small section off the bottom edge of the bottom block-off plate to allow the remaining 10% of heat to escape below it (which also happens to be slightly below the floorboard). Pictures 3 & 4 below show the front and back of this grill.
4. Picture 5 below shows what the covered grill looks like with it in place, before re-installing the right middle side panel.
The finished result, as viewed from the outside, is shown in the top picture of this post. I now can ride all summer, and even put my feet up on the pegs, without my right foot and ankle burning up.
Rob,
What is the bronze or gold looking colored adjustment thing by your radiator hose used for? Their is one on each side of my 2013, and I was wondering what does this adjust, or what is it used for?
There is one of these on the left and right sides under the lower panels. They are used to adjust the headlights. Ever get flashed at night by oncoming drivers? That means that your headlights - probably low and high - are aimed too high. There is a procedure to adjust them in the Owner's manual. Not hard, just time consuming with small adjustments.
"A Wise Man Once Said, I Should Ask My Wife."
2017 Champagne Metallic RT-S SE-6 Rivco Dual Flag Holders; Slingmods Highway Pegs; (Hate Them) Airhawk Seat Cushion; Show Chrome Black Touring Rack w/ Risers & Touring Windshield; RAM X Mount For TXTAG; TackForm Phone Mount; Lidlox; Magic Mirror Mounts; Guardian Bells; WOLO "Bad Boy" Air Horn; Dual USB Power Outlet With Voltmeter; 12V outlet for misc. stuff; Spyderpops Full View Mirror Turn Signals; Large Brake Pedal; Kott Grilles; Large Mud Flap; BajaRon 3 Piece Sway Bar, Last But Not Least, Kuhmo Rear Rire, Vedrestien Fronts.
2017 RT-S , Brake pedal extender is twice the size of the stock pedal. Champagne Metallic