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  1. #1
    Very Active Member zuni's Avatar
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    Default Front Sprocket Failure

    Trust you gut folks, sometimes you get a feeling that something is not quite right. Take a second to check it out. Jumping around on either RT or F3s or F3t left me questioning if I could feel something or it was imagination. Yesterday the splines on the front sprocket had finally worn enough that it spun on the shaft. Less than 9,000 miles. Not happy but the timing could have been worse, much worse. Had I been trying to pass on a two lane road or make a left turn across traffic when it failed I would have been left hanging. It is something worth keeping an eye on. Take a small flashlight and peek behind the cover that is in front of the rear sprocket. There is a small pan underneath that filing will collect on. Additionally since the shavings have become "charged" they stick to other metal parts and will even stand up in the tray. A one minute check could give you an idea if you have a problem or need a closer examination. The failure also explained why my belt kept creeping and needing adjustment.
    Now the waiting game. No dealer appointments until a week from tomorrow and they won't order parts until they see it and verify with BRP that it is warranty. Wonder if this is a part or build issue. This was the first F3s delivered in FL. I only have 9k on it and I know others have more. Curious.

    CJ JAX20160818_111807.jpg20160818_110235.jpg20160818_111725.jpg

  2. #2
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    Thanks for the warning...
    I'm glad to hear that it didn't let go at an "inopportune time"...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  3. #3
    Very Active Member SPYD3R's Avatar
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    Default YUP, YUP & YUP

    HAPPENED TO ME WHEN I TURNED INTO THE PARKING LOT OF MY CREDIT UNION......
    happened to 2 others that i know.... all 3 of us had it fail around 17,000 miles.... yours was an early-bird....

    after the R&R was performed, i looked at my old one, and it looked like 'pot' metal; aka, junk.... i'm a retired engineer, and i'm here to tell you that 'low bidder' parts are 'low quality' parts.... there are just some things that shouldn't be purchased from those people...

    best of luck, and ride safely....
    SPYD3R

  4. #4
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    Looks like a good aftermarket part in the making.. I would buy if not too overpriced! What about it Lamonster?

    Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by zuni View Post
    Trust you gut folks, sometimes you get a feeling that something is not quite right. Take a second to check it out. Jumping around on either RT or F3s or F3t left me questioning if I could feel something or it was imagination. Yesterday the splines on the front sprocket had finally worn enough that it spun on the shaft. Less than 9,000 miles. Not happy but the timing could have been worse, much worse. Had I been trying to pass on a two lane road or make a left turn across traffic when it failed I would have been left hanging. It is something worth keeping an eye on. Take a small flashlight and peek behind the cover that is in front of the rear sprocket. There is a small pan underneath that filing will collect on. Additionally since the shavings have become "charged" they stick to other metal parts and will even stand up in the tray. A one minute check could give you an idea if you have a problem or need a closer examination. The failure also explained why my belt kept creeping and needing adjustment.
    Now the waiting game. No dealer appointments until a week from tomorrow and they won't order parts until they see it and verify with BRP that it is warranty. Wonder if this is a part or build issue. This was the first F3s delivered in FL. I only have 9k on it and I know others have more. Curious.

    CJ JAX20160818_111807.jpg20160818_110235.jpg20160818_111725.jpg

    great pics but I have no idea what I am looking at.

  6. #6
    Very Active Member zuni's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tazzel View Post
    great pics but I have no idea what I am looking at.
    Left side of the bike below the front sprocket. My collection of metal shavings that should have made up the splines of the sprocket.

    CJ JAX

  7. #7
    SpyderLovers Sponsor cptjam's Avatar
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    Default Buttercup had that, too!

    A mild jerk in the drive chain. The good news is the front pulley is softer than the output shaft, so it goes first. It is much easier to change!
    Joe Meyer



    Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system

  8. #8
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    Yamaha Warrior from 02 - 05 had this problem it turned out that the pulley lock nut was the problem it was fix in 06, but it usually took the shaft with it. Knowing this I check mine for filings or dust whenever I think of it, also when I got it my belt was at 240, I dropped it to 200, after reading all the posts about what it should be I went to 180, didn't think I wanted that much tension on the drive pulley, also my vib went from 55-60 to just a little bit around 70. So if a few have had this problem it would probably be a good idea to check it every so often, if you reach up behind the cover you can feel the pulley if your fingers come out with black dust better check further.

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    I had it happen on my 08. I keep an eye on the bolt and check it for tightness every 1000 miles. It will come loose. Someplace there is a bulletin from BRP to look out for that.

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Wildrice's Avatar
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    Default Drive Pulley Torque

    Quote Originally Posted by Lastchance View Post
    Yamaha Warrior from 02 - 05 had this problem it turned out that the pulley lock nut was the problem it was fix in 06, but it usually took the shaft with it. Knowing this I check mine for filings or dust whenever I think of it, also when I got it my belt was at 240, I dropped it to 200, after reading all the posts about what it should be I went to 180, didn't think I wanted that much tension on the drive pulley, also my vib went from 55-60 to just a little bit around 70. So if a few have had this problem it would probably be a good idea to check it every so often, if you reach up behind the cover you can feel the pulley if your fingers come out with black dust better check further.
    My manual shows 92 # torque for my 2015 F3's. I think CanAm must have some some strong people on the assy line--they show 166 # on the axle nut that has a cotter pin to prevent the nut from falling off. Other than the clutch pack on my motorcycles I've never seen over 90 # torque.
    Darrell
    2015 F3's , two 12 volt power outlets Orange & Black

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by zuni View Post
    Trust you gut folks, sometimes you get a feeling that something is not quite right. Take a second to check it out. Jumping around on either RT or F3s or F3t left me questioning if I could feel something or it was imagination. Yesterday the splines on the front sprocket had finally worn enough that it spun on the shaft. Less than 9,000 miles. Not happy but the timing could have been worse, much worse. Had I been trying to pass on a two lane road or make a left turn across traffic when it failed I would have been left hanging. It is something worth keeping an eye on. Take a small flashlight and peek behind the cover that is in front of the rear sprocket. There is a small pan underneath that filing will collect on. Additionally since the shavings have become "charged" they stick to other metal parts and will even stand up in the tray. A one minute check could give you an idea if you have a problem or need a closer examination. The failure also explained why my belt kept creeping and needing adjustment.
    Now the waiting game. No dealer appointments until a week from tomorrow and they won't order parts until they see it and verify with BRP that it is warranty. Wonder if this is a part or build issue. This was the first F3s delivered in FL. I only have 9k on it and I know others have more. Curious.

    CJ JAX20160818_111807.jpg20160818_110235.jpg20160818_111725.jpg
    This was a common faliure in the 08 era turns out a lot of the problem was way to high of belt tension BRP lessened the specs and I mostly fixed the problem
    2 happy happy spyders

  12. #12
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    The failure is the bolt coming loose. Its not the pulley that is the problem. Once the bolt is loose, either the pulley or the shaft is going to fail, the pulley is the easy to replace part so designed to fail first.

    Check the bolt torque on that pulley every oil change.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
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  13. #13
    Very Active Member zuni's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    The failure is the bolt coming loose. Its not the pulley that is the problem. Once the bolt is loose, either the pulley or the shaft is going to fail, the pulley is the easy to replace part so designed to fail first.

    Check the bolt torque on that pulley every oil change.
    Bolt is tight. Sprocket part number is superseded by new number. Guessing they made a change.

    CJ JAX

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    My '17 RTL is on version 3 of the sprocket. Each one has been replaced under warranty and the last one was replaced this year.

    For those of you who have paid for this yourself, contact BRP for a reimbursement of your part and labour.

    These forums are littered with reports of these failing, my latest one was replaced at 60'000kms and started making a noise less than 5000kms later...

    While I've heard many reports from BRP Tech and others as to the cause I'm not convinced the Bolt tension is the issue, nor belt tension.
    2017 RTL
    2017 RTL , White

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    The failure is the bolt coming loose. Its not the pulley that is the problem. Once the bolt is loose, either the pulley or the shaft is going to fail, the pulley is the easy to replace part so designed to fail first.

    Check the bolt torque on that pulley every oil change.
    What is the correct torque?

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  16. #16
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    A Las Vegas 15 F3 just had this happen to him. Took the dealer forever to figure out the issue.
    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
    2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
    2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
    2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
    2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
    2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
    2010 RT- 622

  17. #17
    Very Active Member spyderCodes's Avatar
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    I have been doing a search for part numbers and I can find no superseding part num for the original:
    POULIE 28 DENTS*SPROCKET 28 TH
    705502134

    Are my sources out of date?


    POULIE 28 DENTS*SPROCKET 28 TH
    705502134

    The Power of Logic.
    Start Thinking.

  18. #18
    Active Member KID Ryker's Avatar
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    Default Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    The failure is the bolt coming loose. Its not the pulley that is the problem. Once the bolt is loose, either the pulley or the shaft is going to fail, the pulley is the easy to replace part so designed to fail first.

    Check the bolt torque on that pulley every oil change.
    Thanks good ideal. Checked 3 - f3. 2 f3s with 5000 miles 1 was loose. 1 f3t 400 mile was good. Will do as you said. Check the bolt torque on that pulley every oil change. Great ideal

  19. #19
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    Finally found the front sprocket area, mine is clean as a whistle. I have my 9300 maintenance scheduled for the end of the month, I will have them double check the sprocket condition.

  20. #20
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    Is this happening to mostly 2015 models?

  21. #21
    Active Member RudyB's Avatar
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    Ok so you check the torque everything is tight but you have some rust now what

  22. #22
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    I would order a sprocket and bolt and plan on a few hours to swap it out. Easy to do, just takes time. 2wheelpros.com has free shipping and is $20 cheaper than cheapcycleparts on this item. Mine just blew up - went from quiet to major loud rattle thinking the bike was gonna blow up in about 100 miles! Attached my pic - if yours looks like mine replace it ASAP and be safe! Be sure to use fresh bolt. There are instructions floating around on this forum about how to change, by taking out the shock bolt and jacking up so belt gets loose.

    I checked mine 1000 miles ago while replacing the sensor behind it, was perfect as far as I could tell (no chips or cracked grooves, no wobble, etc.), but had red on it like in the pic. My guess it they get fatigued and fail (quickly).

    2wheelpros.jpg

    sprocket.jpg

  23. #23
    Very Active Member jcthorne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RudyB View Post
    Ok so you check the torque everything is tight but you have some rust now what
    If there is red oxide dust on the pulley face, the splines are failing and the Sprocket needs to be replaced. The current method BRP recommends is moly spline lube not loctite on the splines. You will need a new bolt (and washer if yours is not integral) as well.

    Blue Flame Spyder F3-S
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  24. #24
    Active Member RudyB's Avatar
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    What is the correct torque on front pulley bolt

  25. #25
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    Default Torque spec

    Quote Originally Posted by jcthorne View Post
    The failure is the bolt coming loose. Its not the pulley that is the problem. Once the bolt is loose, either the pulley or the shaft is going to fail, the pulley is the easy to replace part so designed to fail first.

    Check the bolt torque on that pulley every oil change.
    Hey JC, I just replaced my sprocket. What is the correct torque?

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