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  1. #1
    Active Member ABCtriker's Avatar
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    Default RPM increase. Possible causes?

    I own a 2014 RT SE6 Spyder. I have owned and ridden it from May 2014, right off the dealer lot.
    I started this year with about 17K miles the last month or two I have notice that it is running at higher RPM

    I always shift up at about 2800 to 3000 rpm
    The first two years I owned it that meant, on a straight ride, I would shift to 5th at 43-45 mph and into 6th at 53-55 . I had always been aware that it would chug badly, if I shifted to 6th under 50mph. at 65mph on the highway it would purr along at just over 3K rpm

    This year in 4th gear I am at 3K and shift to 5th at about 38-3; and in to 6th at 3Kfpm around 47 and 48. Highway speed of 65 is run 4K for rpm.

    I talked to service at the dealer and then “checked” and said that Cam Am is “not overly concerned about the higher RPMs” and I should enjoy my ride.

    Is anyone else experiencing this shift to higher RPM?

  2. #2
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    I shift by ear and it is usually in the 3000 - 3500 range. I don't vary the shift point based on which gear its in. This is my "sweet spot" and the shifts are smooth and noiseless. I let the tranny do 99% of the downshifts for me--unless I need to power out of a situation.

    Your okay in the ranges you are shifting though.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  3. #3
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    Did your eyeglass prescription change?
    Are you getting your readings in exactly the same manner, as you did before?
    At 65 mph, I'm normally at just about 3500 rpm. That doesn't match up to either of your readings at that speed.
    (I know that I've got lousy eyebqlls, but the reading has remained consistent.)

    Mt Advice...

    Ride MOre worry less 02.jpg
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  4. #4
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Did your eyeglass prescription change?
    Are you getting your readings in exactly the same manner, as you did before?
    At 65 mph, I'm normally at just about 3500 rpm. That doesn't match up to either of your readings at that speed.
    (I know that I've got lousy eyebqlls, but the reading has remained consistent.)

    Mt Advice...

    Ride MOre worry less 02.jpg
    Likewise with 3500 @ 65 mph in sixth gear. I am guessing that fifth at 65 would give approx. 4000 rpm.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  5. #5
    Very Active Member Sam Mac's Avatar
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    Well if the RPM's have truly increased 500+- to go the same speed something has changed. Off the top of my head, 1: Clutch is slipping, 2: Tach is inaccurate, 3: Speedo is inaccurate.

    Edit: If it's the speedo that is the problem you may want to get it fixed or risk having an up close and personal conversation with the law for speeding.
    Last edited by Sam Mac; 08-03-2016 at 03:30 PM.

  6. #6
    Active Member ABCtriker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Mac View Post
    Well if the RPM's have truly increased 500+- to go the same speed something has changed. Off the top of my head, 1: Clutch is slipping, 2: Tach is inaccurate, 3: Speedo is inaccurate.

    Edit: If it's the speedo that is the problem you may want to get it fixed or risk having an up close and personal conversation with the law for speeding.
    I am reasonably sure that it is not the speedo, husband rides with me and our speeds still are in agreement.

    RPM's still sound the same to me. would I notice the clutch slipping in any other way?

  7. #7
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    If you try accelerating HARD in a lower gear; you should be able to notice the rpm levels climbing MUCH higher than they normally do...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  8. #8
    Very Active Member cuznjohn's Avatar
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    i used to shift by ear, then i started getting ear aches, and my left ear was always red. now i use my nose
    NO BIKE AT THIS TIME

  9. #9
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    If you try accelerating HARD in a lower gear; you should be able to notice the rpm levels climbing MUCH higher than they normally do...
    ^ Any flaring of your RPM like that is one way of checking for clutch slip, but it might be easier or more noticeable to someone not used to watching their revs that way if you find a slight climb & while riding slowly up it, shift up into your highest gear straight away (ie waaaay too early!) and then give the throttle a full on twist & try to force the Spyder to accelerate when it'd normally lug or stall cos it's in too high a gear for pulling away up the hill!!

    ATTENTION: Doing that ^ will pretty much always will reveal a clutch that's on the way out by giving you a marked increase in engine RPM with no corresponding road speed increase! But please, don't go out there trying this ALL the time, cos over time & frequent applications it's pretty much self fulfilling! Sure, do it once or twice (but no more) if you have to check, but only if you already think your clutch is getting iffy - this test will confirm that by slipping or deny it by lugging/stalling PDQ; but don't go out & try it every day or even by giving it a whirl every week!! It IS pretty hard on any clutch, and if you subject your clutch to this sort of treatment too often, it will eventually make even the strongest of clutches show up as becoming weak.... just cos you wore it out by 'testing' it under a 'not normal very high load' condition too much!! It's a 'just the once to confirm or deny' test, & if it denies the clutch is weak, then don't do it again, just get on with riding cos your Spyder is fine!!

  10. #10
    Very Active Member Sam Mac's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    If you try accelerating HARD in a lower gear; you should be able to notice the rpm levels climbing MUCH higher than they normally do...
    Wrong, try accelerating hard in high gear. If the RPM's pick up and the speed does not then the clutch is slipping. High gear puts the maximum load on the clutch.

  11. #11
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    What was I thinking??
    Yes: a higher gear, is the one to choose...
    It must have been time for a snack... Sorry for the confusion!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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