Oil Drain Plug Removal

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I realize this is an old thread but I've discovered that at some point since 2019, they apparently replaced the 6mm hex drain plug with a T40 torx. Not any easier to get out though......I'm struggling now with the little bolts that hold the plastic cover on, one of them is so close to what appears to be a ground point that I can't get a box wrench on it! Taking a break now to restore some sanity. This my first oil change at 2000 miles (I know, there is no need to do it now but I want to!) and everything is factory tight!

This will not be helpful now .... but in the future ALWAYS set your Ratchet BEFORE you try to use it ..... and with oil related plugs ALWAYS put the tool in ( socket or Torx ) and give it a good Rap with a hammer .... This will help break the Varnish seal that oil + heat creates ...... good luck .... mike

[Wmoater]

I had a skidoo sled 5-6 years ago that I had the same problem. The dealer must have used the wrong bit and over tightened it the first year and also rounded the bolt. I had to take a snap on torx socket bit next size larger and beat it in to fit. I then heated the socket bit directly. It was pretty much red. Beat it again with ratchet attached and it came out with little effort. Little to say snap on replaced my bit! Ratchet was fine. I had to beat the bolt to pieces once out to get the socket out.

[robtdonna]

You would think the dealer knows what bit to use but not necessarily so. A friend just last month purchased a 2015 F3-S. Original owner had all his maintenance done by the dealer (and had receipts proving thus). It was due for an oil change and I said I'd help her out and do it for her. The 6 mm Allen had obviously had a torx used before. It did come out with the Allen but it wasn't super tight or it may have been a different story. Replaced it with a Gold Plug.

[robtdonna]

Snug it up. Leave overnight....floor clean u r good to go. See oil, snug just a tad more. Easy Peasy.

[jcthorne]

I realize this is an old thread but I've discovered that at some point since 2019, they apparently replaced the 6mm hex drain plug with a T40 torx. Not any easier to get out though......I'm struggling now with the little bolts that hold the plastic cover on, one of them is so close to what appears to be a ground point that I can't get a box wrench on it! Taking a break now to restore some sanity. This my first oil change at 2000 miles (I know, there is no need to do it now but I want to!) and everything is factory tight!

On ALL 1330 engines 2014 to 2021, the engine side plug is torx and the trans is 6mm hex. There has been no change since the start of production to current.

On the 998, the trans side is also hex (same plug by the way) but the engine side (oil tank) is hex on some years and torx on later years. You have to LOOK before inserting the tool.

[McRuss]

If you can't get a good hold with vise grips then I think a drill and easy out is next. Good luck.

I'm going to raise the rear to get more clearance, then a better shot at the beast with the vice grip. AND I'm going to bring it up to operating temp to heat the oil and therefore, maybe, the plug.....I may also try the cold chisel on it, seems soft enough to get a good bite. At this point anything to get it out. The only good thing about the OE plug is there is a nice hole to start the drill for the easy out!

[Wmoater]

McRuss nice travel map. Did you hit all those states with the spyder or just general travel? 49 on spyder is awesome. Good for you if that’s the case. I only mark the states my spyder has been in on this site.

[McRuss]

McRuss nice travel map. Did you hit all those states with the spyder or just general travel? 49 on spyder is awesome. Good for you if that’s the case. I only mark the states my spyder has been in on this site.

No, the travel map is from traveling on two wheels over a period of about 30 years (I rode motors for over 60 years but didn't get out of Colorado until 'late i life.') I'm ashamed to say that my Spyder states total 2, one of those with my Ryker and one with the F3. BUT this summer the F3 will get to see a lot of states and hopefully, several Canadian provinces. +1 for only Spyder states...but my question is, how did you manage Colorado, Wyoming and North Dakota without crossing those 'flyover' states? I rode to all 49 from homes in CO, AZ and TX, no trailers were involved. Oh, by the way, a sharp chisel and a few blows with a ball peen hammer and the drain plug is out!

[McRuss]

This will not be helpful now .... but in the future ALWAYS set your Ratchet BEFORE you try to use it ..... and with oil related plugs ALWAYS put the tool in ( socket or Torx ) and give it a good Rap with a hammer .... This will help break the Varnish seal that oil + heat creates ...... good luck .... mike

Well, I DO always check my 'lefty loosey, righty tighty' before trying to use it. Not sure what you mean by "in the future". Where did I say I tried turning it the wrong way? AND I did smack it with a hammer, several times! This sucker was not coming out without a fight! But chisel one, drain plug zero.

[Wmoater]

No, the travel map is from traveling on two wheels over a period of about 30 years (I rode motors for over 60 years but didn't get out of Colorado until 'late i life.') I'm ashamed to say that my Spyder states total 2, one of those with my Ryker and one with the F3. BUT this summer the F3 will get to see a lot of states and hopefully, several Canadian provinces. +1 for only Spyder states...but my question is, how did you manage Colorado, Wyoming and North Dakota without crossing those 'flyover' states? I rode to all 49 from homes in CO, AZ and TX, no trailers were involved. Oh, by the way, a sharp chisel and a few blows with a ball peen hammer and the drain plug is out!

We have 2 toyhaulers. A small 26’ work and play that we run for short weekend trips (east coast) and a 38’ fuzion fifth for long trips. We spend a lot of time in the summer in Colorado and Wyoming at my sisters. So we take the fuzion out for 4 weeks or so. Sometimes we’ll take the spyder sometimes the SXS. (Wish I could fit both but that’s not going to happen) wifey likes the camper sleep at truck stops or primitive spots no tents! Since I never drop the gate and ride in those “flyover or drive through” states on the spyder I don’t count it on the spyderlovers. My fifth wheel has been in every lower 48. So on my RV forum I have them all marked off. Now that both kids finally moved out 2 years ago time to drop the gate more often. Were planning on that last summer but COVID hit. My parents have a winter house outside Moab Arizona and we take the SXS out there sometimes. Kids loved it. Never took the spyder down there though. This summer we’re pulling to Colorado, leaving the toy hauler there, do the loop around Utah canyon county (arches,Bryce, Zion, grand, flagstaff and end in Moab) been there many times in the truck and camper just not on bike. She’s going to try the tent thing, we’ll see. We love riding norther central Colorado and western Wyoming but with all the burn outs last year doing something different. So unless I literally ride the spyder on a road in the state I don’t count it on spyderlovers. Last 2 trips though had to drop the gate at the black hills so that’s how South Dakota got checked off.

[Gwolf]

F3-S, you can remove the plastic cover under the sump. There is only about 3 small bolts holding it on. Once the plastic is removed, jack it up high enough you can use a hammer under there. Put a small cold chisel on the edge of the plug and tap with a small hammer .......... in the direction to remove the plug. Don't need to tap real hard. The plug will begin to loosen with just a few taps. Replace the plug with one of the hex head plugs that you can get on with a socket. Pinging it out with a chisel won't damage the plug. It will just make a few shallow marks on the edge of it.

[McRuss]

And that is just what I did although it took more than a 'gentle tap'. My plug was STUBBORN! However, a word of warning to other Ltd owners: the third bolt that holds the plastic piece is behind the 'drive pulley' and not accessible. My plastic piece did come off though and now has a new third attachment system.

[Rattlebars]

"Facts" like the old style propane hose connectors (left hand thread). When I had my grandson working with me I told him "that connector s left hand thread". The second time I said "that connector is left hand thread" he said "I know. You told me that." My reply, "Well now you'll remember."

[Gwolf]

"Facts" like the old style propane hose connectors (left hand thread). When I had my grandson working with me I told him "that connector s left hand thread". The second time I said "that connector is left hand thread" he said "I know. You told me that." My reply, "Well now you'll remember."

Oxygen right hand threads...... Acetylene is left hand threads. Impossible to cross hook the hoses on a cutting torch.