Belt tension question - One more time

[bghancock]

I know this question has been asked several times. I need to have some clarification. I have a 2012 RS-S. It appears that there are different belt tensions depending on the model year. I have a Crickit II gauge and I set my tension to 180. Is this the correct tension? The vibration around 5000 RPM before that was driving me nuts. At the higher setting that I have now (180) it seems to have helped a lot. Now with further reading I wonder if I should have loosened the belt. I don't want to damage anything by having my year model too tight. Any advice would be appreciated.

[bghancock]

Anybody have any advice on this? It would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[GearHd]

The only reason the spec was lowered was to try to get rid of vibration. If you don't have vibration at 180 then you're fine.

[Chupaca]

will vary but I have a 2012 RS and run the tension between 160 to 180. Seems the lower side works better but your at a good place and if it helped go with it...

[bghancock]

Thanks for the advice. I may try the lower side just to see how it does.

[Stephenaspr]

On my 2011 RSS, 170 works fine, no vibration.

[Lurker]

Anybody have any advice on this? It would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I do work on all bikes with belt drive and in general 99% are way over tightened. The belts are really kevlar chains and should be treated like a chain. Most people feel tighter is better but this is what causes rear hub damage, sprocket failure and even transmission bearing failure as the belts do not stretch and can exert thousands of pounds of pressure on the running components if over tightened. General rule is loose is better and in the case of the F3 belt vibration this is especially true. There is not such thing as too loose as the belt will not slip or climb as it is setup just like a chain. The loose limit is where the belt starts to rub on the guard or frame so in general at least one inch of looseness up to two is about right. Once set to this spec gravel is no longer an issue and an RT is a perfect gravel running machine.

[jroberts650]

I do work on all bikes with belt drive and in general 99% are way over tightened. The belts are really kevlar chains and should be treated like a chain. Most people feel tighter is better but this is what causes rear hub damage, sprocket failure and even transmission bearing failure as the belts do not stretch and can exert thousands of pounds of pressure on the running components if over tightened. General rule is loose is better and in the case of the F3 belt vibration this is especially true. There is not such thing as too loose as the belt will not slip or climb as it is setup just like a chain. The loose limit is where the belt starts to rub on the guard or frame so in general at least one inch of looseness up to two is about right. Once set to this spec gravel is no longer an issue and an RT is a perfect gravel running machine.

Not sure if I would agree with the quote" there's no such thing as too loose on the belt" I had mine adjusted at the dealer and they said it didn't even register on the gauge at all. It ran perfect spec on the pulleys but had a lot of vibration in the pegs. And I'm sure the tension has no bearing on the fact of no problems with driving in gravel. Loose or not, gravel will get in the teeth and potentially damage the belt by punching holes through the rubber. Just because the belt is Kevlar doesn't make it bullet proof.