Headlight out on my 2014 RT ...How hard is it to DIY change?

[rtlister]

I noticed today that the left headlight on my 2014 Spyder RT is out (bike is still under warranty) but they say warranty doesn't cover light. I flashed between high and low beam but neither high or low works on that light. That made me think perhaps it's not the bulb but something else...perhaps a loose connection (on a car bulb, usually one filament or the other, high or low beam goes out but not both at the same time).

So my questions are:
1. Is this bulb like a car light filament ...with high and low in the same bulb? Wouldn't it be rare for both to burn out at the same time?
2. If it is the bulb, how difficult is it to change (DIY?? ...the dealer charges $140 labor to change it)?
3. I've seen an add for LED with Lamonster ...recommend or not? ...and if you do recommend the LED, should I change both (including the one that is not burned out)?
4. A parts guy told me that the bulb is the same as an H9 65 watt bulb from auto parts store. Is that right?
5. Any recommended video (youtube, etc) out there on changing the bulb?
Thanks

[ThreeWheels]

It could very well be the light.

There is only one filament in the bulb. When "dim" is selected a shutter comes down and obscures 1/2 of the bulb to produce the dimmer light. You should hear a loud thunk when the shutter is opened or closed.
Regardless of going to LEDs, I'd change them both out. If one bulb burned out, the other bulb has had a similar history.
Changing the bulb is not terribly difficult, just tedious. Like almost everything on the RT, you have to take off the mirrors, then the side panels before you can get access to the front panel to gain access to the headlights. The headlights also need to be removed in order to gain access to the rear of the headlight to replace the bulb.
$140 ? Sounds cheap to me.

[OverHillAndDale]

It's easy enough to do if you have a 10mm socket, a set of star bit drivers and an extension (maybe 10" or so) to reach some of the recessed bolts.

Remove the two side covers, the mirrors, and the fascia over the headlights. You'll have to remove the nuts that secure the headlight adjustment knobs. I think there are 4 bolts on each side that secure the headlight housings. Slide them out and there is a cover for the bulb in the back of the housing. Yes, you can get a bulb at any auto-store that substitutes directly for this bulb.

I changed to LED bulbs, but having done so not entirely sure it was worth it. They are whiter, whether or not they're brighter is questionable. I also replaced the fog light bulbs, and that is a much trickier install.

One trick - when you pull the housing forward the cable that connects to the headlight adjustment knob will also be pulled forward. It can be a pain in the butt to fish back into place, particularly for the right side. I got a 10" zip tie and placed it on the cable before I pulled the headlight housing forward. That way I could find the end of the zip tie and pull the cable back into position.

Good luck. It sounds intimidating, but once you've been through it once you'll think (in hindsight) it was easy.

[Cruzr Joe]

It's easy enough to do if you have a 10mm socket, a set of star bit drivers and an extension (maybe 10" or so) to reach some of the recessed bolts.

Remove the two side covers, the mirrors, and the fascia over the headlights. You'll have to remove the nuts that secure the headlight adjustment knobs. I think there are 4 bolts on each side that secure the headlight housings. Slide them out and there is a cover for the bulb in the back of the housing. Yes, you can get a bulb at any auto-store that substitutes directly for this bulb.

I changed to LED bulbs, but having done so not entirely sure it was worth it. They are whiter, whether or not they're brighter is questionable. I also replaced the fog light bulbs, and that is a much trickier install.

One trick - when you pull the housing forward the cable that connects to the headlight adjustment knob will also be pulled forward. It can be a pain in the butt to fish back into place, particularly for the right side. I got a 10" zip tie and placed it on the cable before I pulled the headlight housing forward. That way I could find the end of the zip tie and pull the cable back into position.

Good luck. It sounds intimidating, but once you've been through it once you'll think (in hindsight) it was easy.

I could be wrong on this but i believe that they are Torx bits rather than Star bits.

Cruzr Joe

[OverHillAndDale]

You're correct, thanks for the catch.


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[derrill]

The left headlight burned out on my RT 2014 limited. Had it replaced. 2 days later it burned out again. Powersports did the work. When changing it out the second time they found that the connecter was melted. They fixed it under warranty. These bulbs should last a lifetime. This may be your problem also.


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[SpyderAnn01]

I've got my Spyder apart right now as my right headlight had gone out. When I originally took it apart I found that the connection from the bulb to the headlight housing had melted. This was the 4th time my right headlight had gone out. The entire assembly was replaced under extended warranty. I had to reassemble it and I've been riding for the last month with only one light.

As they said you need the 10mm socket and a 30 Torx. I like OverHill's trick with the zip tie and another trick we found is when you go to reinstall the headlight the top bolt is a bit difficult to get in, even with an extension. We took a piece of painter's tape and basically taped the bolt to the socket so it wouldn't fall off.

I'll be up early tomorrow morning to reinstall mine when the garage is a little cooler. Now I'm sad that I have one pretty shiny new light and one dull old one.

[SpyderAnn01]

The left headlight burned out on my RT 2014 limited. Had it replaced. 2 days later it burned out again. Powersports did the work. When changing it out the second time they found that the connecter was melted. They fixed it under warranty. These bulbs should last a lifetime. This may be your problem also.


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You were typing at the same time I was. That is interesting as that is the same thing that happened to mine. Although my right bulb burned out 3 times before and this 4th time it melted. I remember reading (maybe on Facebook) of some others who have had multiple bulbs go out on their 14 RTs.

[tobor9]

My wife's(SDM) '14RTL right fog light went out and then her right headlight went out about a week or so later? she is ryding without for now as she is thinking of getting Lamosters LED kits and having dealer install. I had the same problem on my RS of the right headlight burned out,never had a left one go out?

[SpyderAnn01]

My wife's(SDM) '14RTL right fog light went out and then her right headlight went out about a week or so later? she is ryding without for now as she is thinking of getting Lamosters LED kits and having dealer install. I had the same problem on my RS of the right headlight burned out,never had a left one go out?

Interesting.

[ceyer69]

It's easy enough to do if you have a 10mm socket, a set of star bit drivers and an extension (maybe 10" or so) to reach some of the recessed bolts.

Remove the two side covers, the mirrors, and the fascia over the headlights. You'll have to remove the nuts that secure the headlight adjustment knobs. I think there are 4 bolts on each side that secure the headlight housings. Slide them out and there is a cover for the bulb in the back of the housing. Yes, you can get a bulb at any auto-store that substitutes directly for this bulb.

I changed to LED bulbs, but having done so not entirely sure it was worth it. They are whiter, whether or not they're brighter is questionable. I also replaced the fog light bulbs, and that is a much trickier install.

One trick - when you pull the housing forward the cable that connects to the headlight adjustment knob will also be pulled forward. It can be a pain in the butt to fish back into place, particularly for the right side. I got a 10" zip tie and placed it on the cable before I pulled the headlight housing forward. That way I could find the end of the zip tie and pull the cable back into position.

Good luck. It sounds intimidating, but once you've been through it once you'll think (in hindsight) it was easy.

Which LED headlights did you go with? I installed the Xenon ones but would like to hear a comparison with Lamonster ones.

[OverHillAndDale]

I bought TricLED. I like them well enough but it would be nice to see them go toe-to-toe.


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[rtlister]

It's easy enough to do if you have a 10mm socket, a set of star bit drivers and an extension (maybe 10" or so) to reach some of the recessed bolts.

Remove the two side covers, the mirrors, and the fascia over the headlights. You'll have to remove the nuts that secure the headlight adjustment knobs. I think there are 4 bolts on each side that secure the headlight housings. Slide them out and there is a cover for the bulb in the back of the housing. Yes, you can get a bulb at any auto-store that substitutes directly for this bulb.

I changed to LED bulbs, but having done so not entirely sure it was worth it. They are whiter, whether or not they're brighter is questionable. I also replaced the fog light bulbs, and that is a much trickier install.

One trick - when you pull the housing forward the cable that connects to the headlight adjustment knob will also be pulled forward. It can be a pain in the butt to fish back into place, particularly for the right side. I got a 10" zip tie and placed it on the cable before I pulled the headlight housing forward. That way I could find the end of the zip tie and pull the cable back into position.

Good luck. It sounds intimidating, but once you've been through it once you'll think (in hindsight) it was easy.

Where did you get your LED bulbs? I'm thinking that if the origanl bulbs go this fast, and are this involved to change, I may want the LEDs.

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[OverHillAndDale]

Mine came from TricLED, and now LaMonster is selling them.


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[rtlister]

Thanks for the info everyone...one more question: is there an issue of aiming (adjusting) the NEW bulb or is it just plug and go? And by the way, the light that is burned out is on the left hand side, rider facing forward to the road ahead (right hand side if you are in front of the bike facing it).

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[OverHillAndDale]

Right and left side of bike are from seated position.

In my experience, you will not need to re-aim the headlights as long as you don't turn the adjustment knobs.


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[garageguy]

Very happy with the Lamonster Leds on my RT. Very noticeable difference driving at night

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[AeroPilot]

I am tearing down to change both the headlight and foglight on the left side of the wife's RT. I am comfortable with getting the headlight bezel off and then installing Lamonsters LED headlight, but having trouble getting the 10 mm bolt out of the front part of the tupperware covering foglight. That and the air intake seems to have things awfully crowded in there.

Am I going to have to take off the bumpskid and the whole frunk to get to where I can change out the foglight?

[Jim&Teresa]

I am tearing down to change both the headlight and foglight on the left side of the wife's RT. I am comfortable with getting the headlight bezel off and then installing Lamonsters LED headlight, but having trouble getting the 10 mm bolt out of the front part of the tupperware covering foglight. That and the air intake seems to have things awfully crowded in there.
Am I going to have to take off the bumpskid and the whole frunk to get to where I can change out the foglight?

I was able to get to both foglights to replace the bulbs with the LED's WITHOUT removing the frunk. I could reach from below to unclip the foglight cover and replace it. You are correct, the left one is very difficult, but can be done. You can also remove the push rivets and any bolts to get the sides of the frunk loose to work from top or at least see what's going on as well. Right side took 5 minutes, left side took 3 times that long and a few choice words.....good luck!


Previous Post from 8-5-16:

I had one fog light out on my 2014 RT Limited -- so..........I went to LEDs on both the headlights and the fog lights. I wanted to let you all know that Lamonster Garage did a great job of shipping them quickly and even had a savings when you buy both sets for $145 - otherwise they would have totaled $152.90. It is certainly a good price, great service, and the videos are helpful for install.....the LEDs really add visibility to the bike as they are white bright vs. the OEM "yellow" light. Here's a photo after install..... Attached Thumbnails

[AeroPilot]

Thanks for the help!

[Ken613834]

I just had the same problem on my 2014 RT Ltd. They replaced the bulb under warranty as they said I have a full warranty until April of 2017 and bulbs are covered.

[AeroPilot]

After I pulled the headlight bezel out it gave a little more room to get to the foglight cover. Glad my hands weren't any bigger. Also once I saw how the tabs on the headlight cover "spread" to release, it was easier to reach in blind from above and the wheel well, and release the same double tab latch on the foglight cover.

Headlight bulb still looked good, but the foglight bulb obviously had a filament segment burnt out. I'll put Sylvania H8 Xenon bulbs back in the foglights (local bought at Oreillys) and wait for the truck to deliver Lamonster's LED headlight bulbs. Wish I had checked for Lamonsters LED foglights before I finished the order. Hope that they both are compatible..

[wd8ajj]

I put LED's in at Spyderfest and talking to a few different dealers the type to use also depends on were you live. There are 2 types fan cooled or wick cooled. Was told by the sellers and even my dealer to get ones with fans for cooling. With the enclosed case and the daily temp in the 90's to 106, the wick LED will not cool properly and overhead and shutdown.So got the fan type and have not had any problems in the heat of southern New Mexico. Up north and out of the desert either ones will work.