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  1. #26
    Active Member _..stiffler..'s Avatar
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    I got the uniroyal on now. I'm doing a trip on Friday. I'll report my review when I'm back.

    Went to the gym this morning and seemed good. Didn't rub.

    So far so good. Crossing fingers.

    Stiff

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    2011 RT Limited , White

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    JC, I have Mud flaps and so do many, many others here with a 215/60 tire. and they aren't reporting this as an issue....... So maybe the MUDFLAPS you are using are the problem ???????.................just a thought.........Mike
    I just recently got the altimax tire and if my rear suspension setting was less than 2 bars from the top my tire would rub against the mounting hardware for the mud flap. The mud flap I have is the Spyder flap which is a site sponsor.
    The solution for me was to use plastic rivets to mount the mud flap which were shorter than original mounting bolts. Also the plastic rivets will not corrode like the SS hardware over long time use.

  3. #28
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    What psi is common for the general altimax? I have mine at 26psi which I thought I read somewhere on the forum but I can't find that info again for the life of me to confirm that is correct.
    Thanks for your help.

  4. #29
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default PSI FOR CAR TIRES ON ANY SPYDER

    Quote Originally Posted by beefybudds View Post
    What psi is common for the general altimax? I have mine at 26psi which I thought I read somewhere on the forum but I can't find that info again for the life of me to confirm that is correct.
    Thanks for your help.
    I have been using car tires on ALL my assorted Spyders since 09 ...... Originally based on my expertise on Hydroplaning , I have found using a much lower PSI with car tires on any Spyder works to your benefit for many reasons ( and I've stated them soo many times I'm not going to list them all again ). I run my fronts at 17 psi and my rear at 21 psi .......this is the cold reading .............. try it , you'll like it. Remember the Spyder only weighs between 775 lbs & 1050 lbs......................Mike

  5. #30
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    wiv wot 'e says!!

    Your OE Spyder tire was a lightly (?poorly?) constructed tire that most wouldn't trust to carry the max load you could put in a wheel barrow, & any car tire is designed, tested, & warranted to carry a much heavier vehicle safely! One of the main functions of any pneumatic tire is simply to contain the air inside it that actually carries the load of the vehicle, & your Spyder is a whole lot lighter than most cars, so it just doesn't need as much air crammed in there to do the same job!!

    Since I'm using fairly hard compound (& slightly stiffer sidewalled) All-season 'touring' tires that are slightly bigger again than the OE tire & the size mentioned in the thread title, I run 16 psi up front & 16-18 psi in the rear - handling, ride, traction, & longevity are all waaaayyy ahead of the OE tire, & it just happens that the tires I bought were also cheaper than an OE replacement as well!! And they even feel safer than the OE tire too!!

    If you really want to get technical about running the correct tire pressure, run your Spyder over a weigh bridge & get the weight of the load it imposes on the various tires, then go to the manufacturers technical specs for the tire you are running, they should have a table of pressures required to carry the various loads so you can read it off there (or do the math to work it out if it's off the lower end of their scale!) or there are various 'foot-print length' methods or 'rules of thumb' like 'the 4psi rule' that will work pretty closely for any/all pneumatic tires! (Google can help)
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-18-2016 at 05:02 PM.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpyderAnn01 View Post
    I checked my records and I've only put 15,000 miles on the General Altimax and the "replace tire" is showing.
    I saw that replace tire showing on mine too now. I didn't measure the thread depth but there is still a lot of life left yet in the tire I believe.

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott16119 View Post
    I saw that replace tire showing on mine too now. I didn't measure the thread depth but there is still a lot of life left yet in the tire I believe.
    You might be right but I was getting ready for some long trips so I changed it. Can't put a price on having good rubber under you.

    Peter, you say you run 16- 18 in the rear? That seems way too low to me.
    2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
    2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
    2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
    2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
    2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
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    2010 RT- 622

  8. #33
    Ozzie Ozzie Ozzie Peter Aawen's Avatar
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    It might seem low, but by comparison to the OE tire it is a fairly robustly constructed tire with a relatively hard compound designed for All-Season long distance touring, and that all adds up to it needing to flex the sidewalls a bit in order to reach the optimum operating temps for the rubber, plus the ride & handling it returns at that pressure is fantastic!

    Besides, for me/my loads, running those pressures solo/2up give a consistent 4psi increase from the cold start pressure after an hours riding, and they return an even temperature across the face of the tire after that hours riding; if the pressure was too low, the pressure increase would be appreciably higher & both the outer edges of the tire would show a higher temp/increased wear rate than the middle; or if it was too high, the pressure increase would be less & the centre of the tread would show a higher temperature/increased wear rate than the edges - and that's exactly what happens when I run any higher pressures!! And when I finally got around to looking up the technical specs for the tire, the manufacturers load/pressure table recommended the same pressures, so it shows those pressures are pretty right on all counts, & the tires have already well and truly exceeded the life of the OE crap that came with the Spyder, so I'm happy on all counts!!

    But you also need to bear in mind that the tire pressures that work for ME, my loads, my riding style, and the roads I ride on might (& probably will) be somewhat different to the pressures needed by YOU, your loads, your riding style, and the roads you ride on!!
    Last edited by Peter Aawen; 09-18-2016 at 05:27 PM.

  9. #34
    Very Active Member Deanna777's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beefybudds View Post
    What psi is common for the general altimax? I have mine at 26psi which I thought I read somewhere on the forum but I can't find that info again for the life of me to confirm that is correct.
    Thanks for your help.
    I am running 26psi on the rear ( General Altimax RT 43). Deanna




    Current Spyder - 2023 F3 LTD Special Mineral Blue

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    Former Spyder - 2014 RTS SE6 Cognac SOLD

  10. #35
    Active Member GeorgiaBill's Avatar
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    Default 4PSI Rule - wot be that?

    4PSI Rule, a new one for me. Peter, I did a search and tried it early this morning. After 40 minutes my left front only increased .5 PSI, right front .3 PSI, and rear 1.3 PSI. I'll start off with just 2 pounds reduction instead of the recommended 4 and iterate from there. I replaced the OEM fronts last week even though they only had 15,000+ miles and had a lot of tread remaining. The handling improvement was remarkable. Wish I had done this at 5,000 miles.

    The fronts are Contiprocontact 165/60/15 and they had about 36 PSI when I got them. They induced a slight pull to the left. The rear is a Kumho 225/50/15 which I'm replacing next month and getting a laser alignment.

    My starting PSIs today were 18.6, 18.5 and 26.2.

    I read your articles on Aawen4x4 Tours and Training. I'll post back with my results.

    -Bill

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Aawen View Post
    wiv wot 'e says!!

    Your OE Spyder tire was a lightly (?poorly?) constructed tire that most wouldn't trust to carry the max load you could put in a wheel barrow, & any car tire is designed, tested, & warranted to carry a much heavier vehicle safely! One of the main functions of any pneumatic tire is simply to contain the air inside it that actually carries the load of the vehicle, & your Spyder is a whole lot lighter than most cars, so it just doesn't need as much air crammed in there to do the same job!!

    Since I'm using fairly hard compound (& slightly stiffer sidewalled) All-season 'touring' tires that are slightly bigger again than the OE tire & the size mentioned in the thread title, I run 16 psi up front & 16-18 psi in the rear - handling, ride, traction, & longevity are all waaaayyy ahead of the OE tire, & it just happens that the tires I bought were also cheaper than an OE replacement as well!! And they even feel safer than the OE tire too!!

    If you really want to get technical about running the correct tire pressure, run your Spyder over a weigh bridge & get the weight of the load it imposes on the various tires, then go to the manufacturers technical specs for the tire you are running, they should have a table of pressures required to carry the various loads so you can read it off there (or do the math to work it out if it's off the lower end of their scale!) or there are various 'foot-print length' methods or 'rules of thumb' like 'the 4psi rule' that will work pretty closely for any/all pneumatic tires! (Google can help)
    2019 Black F3-T

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