Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 32
  1. #1
    Very Active Member Don in E Texas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Gilmer, TX
    Posts
    795
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Loading a Spyder onto a Utility trailer

    This is how I made ramps to load my Spyder onto my 10’ Utility trailer. As you know, without doing anything extra to load your bike onto a trailer of this type, the front nose will hit the ramp of the trailer. This method allows for a minimum of 1.5” clearance with the rider on board the bike. Note: the ramp is approximately 4’ long on our trailer. Here is how I did ours:
    2 - 2”x6”x30” lumber
    2 - 3” bolts (nuts to fit)… I used #10, but any size will work
    Approximately 11” from one end make a permanent mark with a Sharpie pen
    At that same end, install the bolt (about 1” from the edge; centered)
    Line up the mark with the edge of the trailer ramp. The bolt just hangs through one of the openings and prevents the board from moving.
    Hope this helps.
    don
    Did own: 2008, Red, SE5 - and 2010, Black, RT-S Premiere Edition Number 670
    Now Own: 2014 Black RT-S SE6

  2. #2
    Registered Users Director's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    London, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,193
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Don in E Texas View Post
    This is how I made ramps to load my Spyder onto my 10’ Utility trailer. As you know, without doing anything extra to load your bike onto a trailer of this type, the front nose will hit the ramp of the trailer. This method allows for a minimum of 1.5” clearance with the rider on board the bike. Note: the ramp is approximately 4’ long on our trailer. Here is how I did ours:
    2 - 2”x6”x30” lumber
    2 - 3” bolts (nuts to fit)… I used #10, but any size will work
    Approximately 11” from one end make a permanent mark with a Sharpie pen
    At that same end, install the bolt (about 1” from the edge; centered)
    Line up the mark with the edge of the trailer ramp. The bolt just hangs through one of the openings and prevents the board from moving.
    Hope this helps.
    don
    I like your solution, Don. Simple, inexpensive, and effective!

    Good work!

    Bruce
    Bruce Brown
    London, Ontario, Canada
    Spyder Ambassador (Ret.)
    2009 Moto Guzzi Stelvio "Silvia Dionisio"
    Help us fight prostate cancer: http://motorcycleridefordad.org/



    "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, 'WOW, what a ride!'"

  3. #3
    Very Active Member SpyderGirl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    South Jordan, UT (Salt Lake)
    Posts
    2,939
    Spyder Garage
    1

    Default

    Don, we use an ATV trailer and we do the same thing, works great. We actually use the ramps that it came with that attach to the front when not in use. It's an oversized ATV trailer for two large ATVs.
    We are a happy THREE Spyder family!
    My Rides: 2008 Quantum Blue Premier Edition Spyder GS SM5 (#1344)
    2015 Pearl White / Red Can-Am Spyder F3-S SM6
    2016 Intense Pearl Red Can-Am Spyder F3-T SE6
    2019 Chevrolet Volt (ER-EV)
    2003 Jeep Wrangler Sport X 4.0L I-6

    RETIRED Owner / Event Coordinator - Annual Western Regional Can-Am Spyder Rallies
    Spyders in the Redwoods and Red Rock Spyder Rally of Southern Utah

    The West Coast's Can-Am Spyder Community Ambassador
    2008 GS , ISCI Quantum Blue

  4. #4
    Very Active Member smokster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    661
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Don in E Texas View Post
    This is how I made ramps to load my Spyder onto my 10’ Utility trailer. As you know, without doing anything extra to load your bike onto a trailer of this type, the front nose will hit the ramp of the trailer. This method allows for a minimum of 1.5” clearance with the rider on board the bike. Note: the ramp is approximately 4’ long on our trailer. Here is how I did ours:
    2 - 2”x6”x30” lumber
    2 - 3” bolts (nuts to fit)… I used #10, but any size will work
    Approximately 11” from one end make a permanent mark with a Sharpie pen
    At that same end, install the bolt (about 1” from the edge; centered)
    Line up the mark with the edge of the trailer ramp. The bolt just hangs through one of the openings and prevents the board from moving.
    Hope this helps.
    don
    If you jack up the front end it will also lower the ramp. This what I do with the same size trailer.

  5. #5
    Registered Users
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    120
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Lower Belt Guard??

    Quote Originally Posted by Don in E Texas View Post
    This is how I made ramps to load my Spyder onto my 10’ Utility trailer. As you know, without doing anything extra to load your bike onto a trailer of this type, the front nose will hit the ramp of the trailer. This method allows for a minimum of 1.5” clearance with the rider on board the bike. Note: the ramp is approximately 4’ long on our trailer. Here is how I did ours:
    2 - 2”x6”x30” lumber
    2 - 3” bolts (nuts to fit)… I used #10, but any size will work
    Approximately 11” from one end make a permanent mark with a Sharpie pen
    At that same end, install the bolt (about 1” from the edge; centered)
    Line up the mark with the edge of the trailer ramp. The bolt just hangs through one of the openings and prevents the board from moving.
    Hope this helps.
    don
    What about the lower belt guard......does that hit when crossing the apex of the ramp and start of trailer bed? It looks like that is one of the lowest points under the Spyder belly?

  6. #6
    Active Member Longlegs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Central IL
    Posts
    354
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    What I do is approach the ramp at an angle so that only one of the front tires hits the ramp first. This raises the nose up before the second front tire hits the ramp. Just back off the same way.

  7. #7
    Member Garden's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV
    Posts
    12
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Question Loading in reverse

    Can you load in reverse? I want to add boxes to the front end so want to put the single wheel at the front?

  8. #8
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Allegan, MI
    Posts
    20,514
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Garden View Post
    Can you load in reverse? I want to add boxes to the front end so want to put the single wheel at the front?
    You will have to watch the weight distribution carefully. The weight of the Spyder is well toward the front, which could put it behind the axle, a recipe for disaster. Counterbalancing with a load in the boxes would be possible, but is not too predictable. The extra weight of the boxes and their load could also make the tongue too heavy. Proper tongue weight on a trailer is critical to good, safe towing. I would also have concerns in an open trailer at highway speeds with the wind blowing the wrong way on the windshield. It is not designed for a load in that direction and could break. I have towed bikes and cars many miles, with many different types of trailers and I would be hesitant to do this. At very least it needs to be well planned, and thoroughly tested before you hit the highway. Just loading the Spyder in my enclosed trailer took some careful adjusting before I settled on the proper location for the chocks.
    -Scotty

  9. #9
    MOgang Member xpeschon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Waynesville MO
    Posts
    1,194
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Loading it on the trailer is not the problem for me, its the tie down points, I looked in the book and theres no info on this,,, Where do you guys but the front and rear strap's at? Mainly the front ones I have a concern with the rear one there are a couple of points you can tie into but the front I am a bit confussed, I do not want to damage anything in and around the front end, yah know?? Your thoughts please?
    Joe

  10. #10
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Carmel, In
    Posts
    2,357
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by xpeschon View Post
    Loading it on the trailer is not the problem for me, its the tie down points, I looked in the book and theres no info on this,,, Where do you guys but the front and rear strap's at? Mainly the front ones I have a concern with the rear one there are a couple of points you can tie into but the front I am a bit confussed, I do not want to damage anything in and around the front end, yah know?? Your thoughts please?
    Joe
    The owners manual shows tie down running through the wheels I think.

  11. #11
    Very Helpful Member bjt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Grand Blanc, MI
    Posts
    5,443
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I have not trailered my Spyder but I thought one of the most approved tie down suggestions was to run the straps through the rims. Definately don't use the cast metal parts (footpeg mounts) or the passenger grab handle to secure the Spyder.

  12. #12
    Very Active Member retread's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Bargersville, IN
    Posts
    2,962
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Yup, straps thru the wheels, no tie-points on frame. DO NOT use passenger grab handles, they'll break.

    john

  13. #13
    Registered Users Director's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    London, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,193
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bjt View Post
    I have not trailered my Spyder but I thought one of the most approved tie down suggestions was to run the straps through the rims. Definately don't use the cast metal parts (footpeg mounts) or the passenger grab handle to secure the Spyder.
    That's right Brian. I trailered my Spyder to a local motorcycle show in February and used the wheels as tie-down points as per the manual. Worked like a charm. You must also be careful not to run the tie-down strap through the rear sprocket, as this can damage the drivetrain.

    Bruce
    Bruce Brown
    London, Ontario, Canada
    Spyder Ambassador (Ret.)
    2009 Moto Guzzi Stelvio "Silvia Dionisio"
    Help us fight prostate cancer: http://motorcycleridefordad.org/



    "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, 'WOW, what a ride!'"

  14. #14
    MOgang Member xpeschon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Waynesville MO
    Posts
    1,194
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    I must have missed the tie down section in the owners manual, I will have to re-look this however, It's not need now cause of the info on this message, OK--the tires it is.. I have to be honest with you, as for the rear I surely would have tied it to the grap handles, Mistake number one--I'm learning... Thanks for the information--Good stuff..
    Joe

  15. #15
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Springfield, MO
    Posts
    15,858
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Page 68 and 69 shows two ways of securing the Spyder.
    http://spyder.brp.com/NR/rdonlyres/A...de_2008_en.pdf

  16. #16
    Motorbike Professor NancysToy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Allegan, MI
    Posts
    20,514
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by xpeschon View Post
    I must have missed the tie down section in the owners manual, I will have to re-look this however, It's not need now cause of the info on this message, OK--the tires it is.. I have to be honest with you, as for the rear I surely would have tied it to the grap handles, Mistake number one--I'm learning... Thanks for the information--Good stuff..
    Joe
    I have found that you can use the grab handles for keeping the Spyder back end from moving around (in an enclosed trailer) but you cannot cinch it down this way at all. You can just bring the straps taught, no more! Also, the handles are softer than they seem, and the tie-downs will cut into them. You need sleeved soft-ties to even think about it. The rear wheel is safer and easier.
    -Scotty

  17. #17
    SpyderLovers Founder Lamonster's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Springfield, MO
    Posts
    15,858
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NancysToy View Post
    I have found that you can use the grab handles for keeping the Spyder back end from moving around (in an enclosed trailer) but you cannot cinch it down this way at all. You can just bring the straps taught, no more! Also, the handles are softer than they seem, and the tie-downs will cut into them. You need sleeved soft-ties to even think about it. The rear wheel is safer and easier.
    -Scotty
    Personally I would not use the grab handles for tie downs. If you hit the right bump or had to make a quick lane change you could wind up putting enough pressure on those handles to break them. There's been post of them being broke before and if I remember right they are $200.00 or more.

  18. #18
    Very Active Member Don in E Texas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Gilmer, TX
    Posts
    795
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Rev 1 of loading Spyder

    Quote Originally Posted by Buelldog View Post
    What about the lower belt guard......does that hit when crossing the apex of the ramp and start of trailer bed? It looks like that is one of the lowest points under the Spyder belly?
    After another go at loading the Spyder on my Utility trailer, Buelldog is correct: the belt guard plus some of the exhaust MAY hit at the apex of the ramp (all this depends on your trailer, height, etc. etc.)....

    My simple solution was to retain my two 2 x 6 boards in the same place but add two other 2 x 4 or 2 x 6 boards UNDER the edge of the ramp on the ground thus changing the ramp angle. Now everything clears

    YMMV, of course..

    Thanks for your post, Buelldog!

    don
    Did own: 2008, Red, SE5 - and 2010, Black, RT-S Premiere Edition Number 670
    Now Own: 2014 Black RT-S SE6

  19. #19
    Registered Users COOLHAND's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Tupelo/Madison, MS
    Posts
    22
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Ramps for loading

    I found a great solution for me. I purchased ramps from Walmart that you would use for car oil changes in your garage. I set the ramps and then lower the gate onto them. The gate weight holds them in place and they provide enough wheel space for any alignment error on the part of the rider. They are also wide enough for the rear wheel. No problem backing off either. These ramps are sold in pairs and run about 40 bucks. There is more than enough clearence for the nose coming and going on. I intend later to modify so that there is not a chance of one slipping during the load.

  20. #20
    Registered Users rc51ny's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    270
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by COOLHAND View Post
    I found a great solution for me. I purchased ramps from Walmart that you would use for car oil changes in your garage. I set the ramps and then lower the gate onto them. The gate weight holds them in place and they provide enough wheel space for any alignment error on the part of the rider. They are also wide enough for the rear wheel. No problem backing off either. These ramps are sold in pairs and run about 40 bucks. There is more than enough clearence for the nose coming and going on. I intend later to modify so that there is not a chance of one slipping during the load.
    Would love to see a pic of what you do!

  21. #21
    Registered Users Degaman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Nashville, Tennessee
    Posts
    176
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default Spyder Trailering

    I finally got a chance to take some pics of my custom made trailer for spyder, 6'4"wide x 11' including last 3' dovetailed, 4' gate:










    Vidi, Vici, Veni!

  22. #22
    Registered Users Director's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    London, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,193
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Degaman View Post
    I finally got a chance to take some pics of my custom made trailer for spyder, 6'4"wide x 11' including last 3' dovetailed, 4' gate:









    Sweet setup! Nice work.

    Bruce
    Bruce Brown
    London, Ontario, Canada
    Spyder Ambassador (Ret.)
    2009 Moto Guzzi Stelvio "Silvia Dionisio"
    Help us fight prostate cancer: http://motorcycleridefordad.org/



    "Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, 'WOW, what a ride!'"

  23. #23
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Carmel, In
    Posts
    2,357
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Degaman View Post
    I finally got a chance to take some pics of my custom made trailer for spyder, 6'4"wide x 11' including last 3' dovetailed, 4' gate:










    I like that trailer. Looks perfect for the spyder. Hope you don't mind me asking how much your guy charged to make it? And how long did it take?

  24. #24
    Registered Users Degaman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Nashville, Tennessee
    Posts
    176
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Trickie Dick View Post
    I like that trailer. Looks perfect for the spyder. Hope you don't mind me asking how much your guy charged to make it? And how long did it take?
    It was about $1400.00... took about a week. The darn d-rings were $20.00 apiece x 4. Could have gotten it cheaper with non-LED tail lights or with a wooden floor, but it sounded reasonable to me.
    Vidi, Vici, Veni!

  25. #25
    Very Helpful Member bjt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Grand Blanc, MI
    Posts
    5,443
    Spyder Garage
    0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Degaman View Post
    It was about $1400.00... took about a week. The darn d-rings were $20.00 apiece x 4. Could have gotten it cheaper with non-LED tail lights or with a wooden floor, but it sounded reasonable to me.
    I agree, it sounds very resonable.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •