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Very Active Member
Loading a Spyder onto a Utility trailer
This is how I made ramps to load my Spyder onto my 10’ Utility trailer. As you know, without doing anything extra to load your bike onto a trailer of this type, the front nose will hit the ramp of the trailer. This method allows for a minimum of 1.5” clearance with the rider on board the bike. Note: the ramp is approximately 4’ long on our trailer. Here is how I did ours:
2 - 2”x6”x30” lumber
2 - 3” bolts (nuts to fit)… I used #10, but any size will work
Approximately 11” from one end make a permanent mark with a Sharpie pen
At that same end, install the bolt (about 1” from the edge; centered)
Line up the mark with the edge of the trailer ramp. The bolt just hangs through one of the openings and prevents the board from moving.
Hope this helps.
don
Did own: 2008, Red, SE5 - and 2010, Black, RT-S Premiere Edition Number 670
Now Own: 2014 Black RT-S SE6
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by Don in E Texas
This is how I made ramps to load my Spyder onto my 10’ Utility trailer. As you know, without doing anything extra to load your bike onto a trailer of this type, the front nose will hit the ramp of the trailer. This method allows for a minimum of 1.5” clearance with the rider on board the bike. Note: the ramp is approximately 4’ long on our trailer. Here is how I did ours:
2 - 2”x6”x30” lumber
2 - 3” bolts (nuts to fit)… I used #10, but any size will work
Approximately 11” from one end make a permanent mark with a Sharpie pen
At that same end, install the bolt (about 1” from the edge; centered)
Line up the mark with the edge of the trailer ramp. The bolt just hangs through one of the openings and prevents the board from moving.
Hope this helps.
don
I like your solution, Don. Simple, inexpensive, and effective!
Good work!
Bruce
Bruce Brown
London, Ontario, Canada
Spyder Ambassador (Ret.)
2009 Moto Guzzi Stelvio "Silvia Dionisio"
Help us fight prostate cancer: http://motorcycleridefordad.org/
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, 'WOW, what a ride!'"
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Very Active Member
Don, we use an ATV trailer and we do the same thing, works great. We actually use the ramps that it came with that attach to the front when not in use. It's an oversized ATV trailer for two large ATVs.
We are a happy THREE Spyder family! My Rides: 2008 Quantum Blue Premier Edition Spyder GS SM5 (#1344)
2015 Pearl White / Red Can-Am Spyder F3-S SM6
2016 Intense Pearl Red Can-Am Spyder F3-T SE6
2019 Chevrolet Volt (ER-EV)
2003 Jeep Wrangler Sport X 4.0L I-6
RETIRED Owner / Event Coordinator - Annual Western Regional Can-Am Spyder Rallies
Spyders in the Redwoods and Red Rock Spyder Rally of Southern Utah
The West Coast's Can-Am Spyder Community Ambassador
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Don in E Texas
This is how I made ramps to load my Spyder onto my 10’ Utility trailer. As you know, without doing anything extra to load your bike onto a trailer of this type, the front nose will hit the ramp of the trailer. This method allows for a minimum of 1.5” clearance with the rider on board the bike. Note: the ramp is approximately 4’ long on our trailer. Here is how I did ours:
2 - 2”x6”x30” lumber
2 - 3” bolts (nuts to fit)… I used #10, but any size will work
Approximately 11” from one end make a permanent mark with a Sharpie pen
At that same end, install the bolt (about 1” from the edge; centered)
Line up the mark with the edge of the trailer ramp. The bolt just hangs through one of the openings and prevents the board from moving.
Hope this helps.
don
If you jack up the front end it will also lower the ramp. This what I do with the same size trailer.
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Lower Belt Guard??
Originally Posted by Don in E Texas
This is how I made ramps to load my Spyder onto my 10’ Utility trailer. As you know, without doing anything extra to load your bike onto a trailer of this type, the front nose will hit the ramp of the trailer. This method allows for a minimum of 1.5” clearance with the rider on board the bike. Note: the ramp is approximately 4’ long on our trailer. Here is how I did ours:
2 - 2”x6”x30” lumber
2 - 3” bolts (nuts to fit)… I used #10, but any size will work
Approximately 11” from one end make a permanent mark with a Sharpie pen
At that same end, install the bolt (about 1” from the edge; centered)
Line up the mark with the edge of the trailer ramp. The bolt just hangs through one of the openings and prevents the board from moving.
Hope this helps.
don
What about the lower belt guard......does that hit when crossing the apex of the ramp and start of trailer bed? It looks like that is one of the lowest points under the Spyder belly?
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Active Member
What I do is approach the ramp at an angle so that only one of the front tires hits the ramp first. This raises the nose up before the second front tire hits the ramp. Just back off the same way.
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Member
Loading in reverse
Can you load in reverse? I want to add boxes to the front end so want to put the single wheel at the front?
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by Garden
Can you load in reverse? I want to add boxes to the front end so want to put the single wheel at the front?
You will have to watch the weight distribution carefully. The weight of the Spyder is well toward the front, which could put it behind the axle, a recipe for disaster. Counterbalancing with a load in the boxes would be possible, but is not too predictable. The extra weight of the boxes and their load could also make the tongue too heavy. Proper tongue weight on a trailer is critical to good, safe towing. I would also have concerns in an open trailer at highway speeds with the wind blowing the wrong way on the windshield. It is not designed for a load in that direction and could break. I have towed bikes and cars many miles, with many different types of trailers and I would be hesitant to do this. At very least it needs to be well planned, and thoroughly tested before you hit the highway. Just loading the Spyder in my enclosed trailer took some careful adjusting before I settled on the proper location for the chocks.
-Scotty
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MOgang Member
Loading it on the trailer is not the problem for me, its the tie down points, I looked in the book and theres no info on this,,, Where do you guys but the front and rear strap's at? Mainly the front ones I have a concern with the rear one there are a couple of points you can tie into but the front I am a bit confussed, I do not want to damage anything in and around the front end, yah know?? Your thoughts please?
Joe
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Originally Posted by xpeschon
Loading it on the trailer is not the problem for me, its the tie down points, I looked in the book and theres no info on this,,, Where do you guys but the front and rear strap's at? Mainly the front ones I have a concern with the rear one there are a couple of points you can tie into but the front I am a bit confussed, I do not want to damage anything in and around the front end, yah know?? Your thoughts please?
Joe
The owners manual shows tie down running through the wheels I think.
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Very Helpful Member
I have not trailered my Spyder but I thought one of the most approved tie down suggestions was to run the straps through the rims. Definately don't use the cast metal parts (footpeg mounts) or the passenger grab handle to secure the Spyder.
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Very Active Member
Yup, straps thru the wheels, no tie-points on frame. DO NOT use passenger grab handles, they'll break.
john
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by bjt
I have not trailered my Spyder but I thought one of the most approved tie down suggestions was to run the straps through the rims. Definately don't use the cast metal parts (footpeg mounts) or the passenger grab handle to secure the Spyder.
That's right Brian. I trailered my Spyder to a local motorcycle show in February and used the wheels as tie-down points as per the manual. Worked like a charm. You must also be careful not to run the tie-down strap through the rear sprocket, as this can damage the drivetrain.
Bruce
Bruce Brown
London, Ontario, Canada
Spyder Ambassador (Ret.)
2009 Moto Guzzi Stelvio "Silvia Dionisio"
Help us fight prostate cancer: http://motorcycleridefordad.org/
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, 'WOW, what a ride!'"
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MOgang Member
I must have missed the tie down section in the owners manual, I will have to re-look this however, It's not need now cause of the info on this message, OK--the tires it is.. I have to be honest with you, as for the rear I surely would have tied it to the grap handles, Mistake number one--I'm learning... Thanks for the information--Good stuff..
Joe
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SpyderLovers Founder
Page 68 and 69 shows two ways of securing the Spyder.
http://spyder.brp.com/NR/rdonlyres/A...de_2008_en.pdf
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Motorbike Professor
Originally Posted by xpeschon
I must have missed the tie down section in the owners manual, I will have to re-look this however, It's not need now cause of the info on this message, OK--the tires it is.. I have to be honest with you, as for the rear I surely would have tied it to the grap handles, Mistake number one--I'm learning... Thanks for the information--Good stuff..
Joe
I have found that you can use the grab handles for keeping the Spyder back end from moving around (in an enclosed trailer) but you cannot cinch it down this way at all. You can just bring the straps taught, no more! Also, the handles are softer than they seem, and the tie-downs will cut into them. You need sleeved soft-ties to even think about it. The rear wheel is safer and easier.
-Scotty
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SpyderLovers Founder
Originally Posted by NancysToy
I have found that you can use the grab handles for keeping the Spyder back end from moving around (in an enclosed trailer) but you cannot cinch it down this way at all. You can just bring the straps taught, no more! Also, the handles are softer than they seem, and the tie-downs will cut into them. You need sleeved soft-ties to even think about it. The rear wheel is safer and easier.
-Scotty
Personally I would not use the grab handles for tie downs. If you hit the right bump or had to make a quick lane change you could wind up putting enough pressure on those handles to break them. There's been post of them being broke before and if I remember right they are $200.00 or more.
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Very Active Member
Did own: 2008, Red, SE5 - and 2010, Black, RT-S Premiere Edition Number 670
Now Own: 2014 Black RT-S SE6
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Registered Users
Ramps for loading
I found a great solution for me. I purchased ramps from Walmart that you would use for car oil changes in your garage. I set the ramps and then lower the gate onto them. The gate weight holds them in place and they provide enough wheel space for any alignment error on the part of the rider. They are also wide enough for the rear wheel. No problem backing off either. These ramps are sold in pairs and run about 40 bucks. There is more than enough clearence for the nose coming and going on. I intend later to modify so that there is not a chance of one slipping during the load.
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by COOLHAND
I found a great solution for me. I purchased ramps from Walmart that you would use for car oil changes in your garage. I set the ramps and then lower the gate onto them. The gate weight holds them in place and they provide enough wheel space for any alignment error on the part of the rider. They are also wide enough for the rear wheel. No problem backing off either. These ramps are sold in pairs and run about 40 bucks. There is more than enough clearence for the nose coming and going on. I intend later to modify so that there is not a chance of one slipping during the load.
Would love to see a pic of what you do!
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Registered Users
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Registered Users
Bruce Brown
London, Ontario, Canada
Spyder Ambassador (Ret.)
2009 Moto Guzzi Stelvio "Silvia Dionisio"
Help us fight prostate cancer: http://motorcycleridefordad.org/
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming, 'WOW, what a ride!'"
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Registered Users
Originally Posted by Trickie Dick
I like that trailer. Looks perfect for the spyder. Hope you don't mind me asking how much your guy charged to make it? And how long did it take?
It was about $1400.00... took about a week. The darn d-rings were $20.00 apiece x 4. Could have gotten it cheaper with non-LED tail lights or with a wooden floor, but it sounded reasonable to me.
Vidi, Vici, Veni!
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Very Helpful Member
Originally Posted by Degaman
It was about $1400.00... took about a week. The darn d-rings were $20.00 apiece x 4. Could have gotten it cheaper with non-LED tail lights or with a wooden floor, but it sounded reasonable to me.
I agree, it sounds very resonable.
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