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Thread: Oil change diy

  1. #1
    Active Member rtlister's Avatar
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    Default Oil change diy

    Shawn Smoak has a two part video on youtube that shows in amazing detail the process of the oil change for a 2015 Spyder RTS (Shawn is a mechanic/tech at a Can Am dealership). He gives detail to the step by step process including certain cautions to be on the look out for. Great job Shawn!! But I have a question (for him or anyone that would know) about his final step. He connects his laptop to the Spyder's onboard computer and registers the oil change, looks for updates, etc. What software is used...what cables are needed...or is this even necessary (warranty?)?? Also, is this process for the 2015 the exact same for a 2014?? Thanks!

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    Pragmatic Member Pampurrs's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtlister View Post
    Shawn Smoak has a two part video on youtube that shows in amazing detail the process of the oil change for a 2015 Spyder RTS (Shawn is a mechanic/tech at a Can Am dealership). He gives detail to the step by step process including certain cautions to be on the look out for. Great job Shawn!! But I have a question (for him or anyone that would know) about his final step. He connects his laptop to the Spyder's onboard computer and registers the oil change, looks for updates, etc. What software is used...what cables are needed...or is this even necessary (warranty?)?? Also, is this process for the 2015 the exact same for a 2014?? Thanks!
    Shawn is using BUDS which is proprietary software that dealers and some technicians such as Squared Away have. Very pricey!

    The procedure on his video is for the 2014 and later RT.

    Pam



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    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    If you are concerned about documenting your DIY oil changes simply save and/or scan to a file your parts invoices and write an MFR with the date, mileage and details of your oil change. B.U.D.S. is too expensive IMO to buy for recording oil changes and you must update it yearly to keep it current.
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    I just create a word Document and put all the maint items I do on the document.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JayBros View Post
    If you are concerned about documenting your DIY oil changes simply save and/or scan to a file your parts invoices and write an MFR with the date, mileage and details of your oil change. B.U.D.S. is too expensive IMO to buy for recording oil changes and you must update it yearly to keep it current.
    I'll help translate:
    MFR = Memorandom For Record; a statement of what you did, when, and any observations.
    File with the rest of your records, invoices, receipts, warranty, etc.
    Great idea, Jay!
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    Dealer for the Outlaw/ROLO laser Alignment system

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    Active Member rtlister's Avatar
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    Thanks for the replies. Just curious, how many of you do your own oil change? From all I have seen (i.e. Shawn's youtube video) there are a number of things that could go wrong...that could potentially cause serious damage. I've done oil changes on my inboard boat, cars/trucks, and some past bikes...but this oil change on the Spyder is perty involved. So, just curious...how many of you do it yourself? Thanks again?

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    Very Active Member irvin48's Avatar
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    my first is coming up soon. youre right. i watched all the vids. had the parts all off[tupperware]
    second day i owned it. bought 2 oil change kits and also extra filters and o rings later from baja
    ron. will probly go syn after the first 2 changes. of course shaun says xps is 70% syn.
    good luck with yours. buy a set of aftermarket oil plugs too.--irv
    Last edited by irvin48; 07-08-2016 at 02:37 PM.
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    Pragmatic Member Pampurrs's Avatar
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    I have done all my own oil changes, with the exception of the first service. I've done all my own oil changes on previous bikes as well. I just enjoy doing my own maintenance.

    Pam



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    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtlister View Post
    Thanks for the replies. Just curious, how many of you do your own oil change? From all I have seen (i.e. Shawn's youtube video) there are a number of things that could go wrong...that could potentially cause serious damage. I've done oil changes on my inboard boat, cars/trucks, and some past bikes...but this oil change on the Spyder is perty involved. So, just curious...how many of you do it yourself? Thanks again?

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
    I do my own,have done for 50+ years. I keep a log of what I do and when I do it In those 50+ years I have never had a dealer question my work or refuse to honor a warranty claim that was legit.
    Last edited by pegasus1300; 07-08-2016 at 11:38 AM.

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    Default MAINTENANCE / SERVICE

    Quote Originally Posted by pegasus1300 View Post
    I do my own,have done for 50+ years. I keep a log of what I do and when I do it In those 50+ years I have never had a dealer question my work or refuse to honor a warranty claim that was legit.
    WITH Pegasus................and after you have been here awhile you will see how many Dealer Techs have screwed up this simple procedure BIG TIME ......PS, the GOLD PLUG BRAND are the same as Dimple for less money ....and the 6 mm Hex oil drain plug doesn't cause the same issues as the TORX plug........also TAP the plugs firmly before you try to un-do them to break the VARNISH seal that has formed from heating/cooling...........Good luck.......Mike

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    Default Sums it up for me too...

    Quote Originally Posted by Pampurrs View Post
    I have done all my own oil changes, with the exception of the first service. I've done all my own oil changes on previous bikes as well. I just enjoy doing my own maintenance.

    Pam
    The satisfaction of having seen everything out (dirty oil and any metal shavings..hopefully not) and the right amount and type oil in with fresh filters, torque etc. is right up there with having a clean bike!! I enjoy the time spent maintaining it second only to riding it!!
    2015 RT , OEM Black Gloss

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    Active Member subdude17349's Avatar
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    I just changed the oil in my RTS last night for the first time. Frankly, after all the people on here who talk about how complicated it is, I was stunned by how easy it was compared to some of the things I've worked on over the years. Thoughts:

    You need a total of 4 tools. A T30 driver for the body panels, a 36mm socket for the oil filter cap, and a T45 and 6mm hex for the drain plugs.

    The body panels take all of maybe 5 minutes to remove, if you stop for a cold drink in the middle.

    The drain plugs are both accessible without removing anything. The T45 one makes a mess as soon as you remove it, but its not too bad.

    The oil filter sits in a cup on the side of the motor, and the cap comes off the cup. Far better design than my Mini Cooper, where the oil filter is in an upside down cup which screws into the side of the motor and dumps oil down the side of the motor as soon as you remove it.

    The O rings are a pain, but if you've ever worked with o rings before it's no big deal. Cover the threads before you install the new o ring, oil it before you put it on, and you're fine.

    Start to finish it couldn't have taken me more than 45 minutes to do, and a large part of that was the whole "warm it up, let it idle" business to check the oil level when done.

    I'm going to have to look at these dimple drain plugs you guys talk about, but if the only reason to change is that they use the same tool on both to remove, I don't really care.

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    Quote Originally Posted by rtlister View Post
    Thanks for the replies. Just curious, how many of you do your own oil change? From all I have seen (i.e. Shawn's youtube video) there are a number of things that could go wrong...that could potentially cause serious damage. I've done oil changes on my inboard boat, cars/trucks, and some past bikes...but this oil change on the Spyder is perty involved. So, just curious...how many of you do it yourself? Thanks again?

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
    just be carefull not to over tighten the plugs like I did and stripped the threads on the clutch cover it cost me $830.00 to replace the clutch cover
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  14. #14
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    Shawn does all of the service on my RTS. I know just barely enough to be dangerous, and with Shawn being local, well, they get my business.

    The last thing I want to do is accidentally destroy my Spyder trying to save a few bucks.

    -Fratz

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    Active Member rtlister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by subdude17349 View Post
    I just changed the oil in my RTS last night for the first time. Frankly, after all the people on here who talk about how complicated it is, I was stunned by how easy it was compared to some of the things I've worked on over the years. Thoughts:

    You need a total of 4 tools. A T30 driver for the body panels, a 36mm socket for the oil filter cap, and a T45 and 6mm hex for the drain plugs.

    The body panels take all of maybe 5 minutes to remove, if you stop for a cold drink in the middle.

    The drain plugs are both accessible without removing anything. The T45 one makes a mess as soon as you remove it, but its not too bad.

    The oil filter sits in a cup on the side of the motor, and the cap comes off the cup. Far better design than my Mini Cooper, where the oil filter is in an upside down cup which screws into the side of the motor and dumps oil down the side of the motor as soon as you remove it.

    The O rings are a pain, but if you've ever worked with o rings before it's no big deal. Cover the threads before you install the new o ring, oil it before you put it on, and you're fine.

    Start to finish it couldn't have taken me more than 45 minutes to do, and a large part of that was the whole "warm it up, let it idle" business to check the oil level when done.

    I'm going to have to look at these dimple drain plugs you guys talk about, but if the only reason to change is that they use the same tool on both to remove, I don't really care.
    Where do you get your oil change kit...and and what's it cost? I'm seeing $82 on ebay. Wow, didn't expect it to be that high. Thanks.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

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    Active Member rtlister's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AeroPilot View Post
    The satisfaction of having seen everything out (dirty oil and any metal shavings..hopefully not) and the right amount and type oil in with fresh filters, torque etc. is right up there with having a clean bike!! I enjoy the time spent maintaining it second only to riding it!!
    Would you mind telling me where you get your oil change kit and for how much? I'm seeing $82 on ebay. Thanks.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

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    Very Active Member Copperman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtlister View Post
    Would you mind telling me where you get your oil change kit and for how much? I'm seeing $82 on ebay. Thanks.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
    Call Bill in parts at iMotorsports (a site sponsor). Be sure to tell him you're a Spyderlover. I've bought a few things from them and they're pretty reasonable.
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    WITH Pegasus................and after you have been here awhile you will see how many Dealer Techs have screwed up this simple procedure BIG TIME ......PS, the GOLD PLUG BRAND are the same as Dimple for less money ....and the 6 mm Hex oil drain plug doesn't cause the same issues as the TORX plug........also TAP the plugs firmly before you try to un-do them to break the VARNISH seal that has formed from heating/cooling...........Good luck.......Mike
    Mike, where did you purchase the Gold Plugs?
    To God Be The Glory!



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    Very Active Member Copperman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Minister View Post
    Mike, where did you purchase the Gold Plugs?



    http://goldplug.com/

    https://goldplug.com/shop/mp18/

    https://goldplug.com/shop/mp01/
    Last edited by Copperman; 07-09-2016 at 07:19 AM.
    2020 Chalk, RT Limited, Dark and matching RT622 trailer and BRP hitch. BRP Drivers Backrest, Auxiliary Light, Garmin Zumo XT, GPS Support, RT Rear Panel and Travel Cover. Spyderpops LEDs on fenders, mirrors, saddlebags, top case and RT rear panel. Spyderpops Rock Guard. BajaRon Swaybar, Wolo Bad Boy horn, Freedom Windshield, Elka Shocks.
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    Active Member SteveandBelinda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtlister View Post
    Shawn Smoak has a two part video on youtube that shows in amazing detail the process of the oil change for a 2015 Spyder RTS (Shawn is a mechanic/tech at a Can Am dealership). He gives detail to the step by step process including certain cautions to be on the look out for. Great job Shawn!! But I have a question (for him or anyone that would know) about his final step. He connects his laptop to the Spyder's onboard computer and registers the oil change, looks for updates, etc. What software is used...what cables are needed...or is this even necessary (warranty?)?? Also, is this process for the 2015 the exact same for a 2014?? Thanks!
    Does he show one (video) changing oil on a 2010 RT SE5? I need to find videos for this oil change.
    2014 Can Am Spyder RT Limited - Pearl White
    2010 Can Am Spyder RT - Full Moon

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    Active Member rtlister's Avatar
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    The 2-part video I have seen is for a 2015 RT. Don't know of one for a 2010

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    Active Member SteveandBelinda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtlister View Post
    The 2-part video I have seen is for a 2015 RT. Don't know of one for a 2010

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
    Yea, since the 2015 is the 1330 and mine is the 998, I'm sure there is moderate amount of difference. I would like to also like to find some online or purchasable manuals or videos of how to do all my own maintenance. What is this reference to the "Green Manual" that someone refered to in another thread I read the other day?
    2014 Can Am Spyder RT Limited - Pearl White
    2010 Can Am Spyder RT - Full Moon

  23. #23
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    Default Torx & Smidchen

    Quote Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911 View Post
    WITH Pegasus................and after you have been here awhile you will see how many Dealer Techs have screwed up this simple procedure BIG TIME ......PS, the GOLD PLUG BRAND are the same as Dimple for less money ....and the 6 mm Hex oil drain plug doesn't cause the same issues as the TORX plug........also TAP the plugs firmly before you try to un-do them to break the VARNISH seal that has formed from heating/cooling...........Good luck.......Mike
    Everytime I remove a torx screw or bolt I replace it with a hex type--well most every time provided the hex parts are handy..even my high quality $18/set torx wrenches strip out--if there's a smidchen of dirt inside the torx screw--I have problems. I know--most of you are unfamiliar with the term "smidchen" it's listed in Darrell's dictionary.
    d
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