I really want to like this bike...

[Deanna777]

Hang in there....it only gets better!

x 3 Deanna

[Stumpy6Guns]

I hope so. Tonight's ride home was awful. The bike wouldn't hold a line in the curves; a little input gave too much output. Every time I relaxed my grip, the dang thing would head for the boonies. I felt the rear tire break loose a couple of times, and other times it felt drifty, especially coming out of the curve when it would snap into a straight line.
At one point, I was ready to get off and push it the remaining 7 miles home.
I feel like I'm caught in a vicious circle. I'm getting more skittish, which undoubtedly shows up in the bike's behavior, which in turn makes me more skittish.

As far as getting it aligned goes, Riverside is a lot closer than Vegas, and that means fewer hours of terror on the road.

The local dealer is having a Can-Am sales event tomorrow through Sunday. I'm going to go ride a new machine just to see how it feels. I'll also talk to their service tech and get his input.

Man, reading back through my posts in this thread makes me sound like a big whining ninny. I'm really not- I just don't need the aggravation!

[BitSlayer]

Hang in there. The bike can be a great ride. I am on my second one now and there is some learning as all have said. The alignment can help keep the bike on a straight line. One of the biggest things for me is to make sure your front end is not sagging and does not dip going into the corners. I think you have stated you have a BajaRon sway bar installed. You might look at the preload of the front shocks. Set it at the top most level, 5. That helped me on my 2011. The next step would be to look at some Elka shocks. They will also make a world of difference.

I agree with talking to a Can-Am specialist. They can give the bike a once over and tell you if there is a basic setup problem. I have heard stories about a misaligned DPS sensor making the steering squirly as well.

Good luck and hope you get the issue resolved. The bike is a great ride.

[Pirate looks at --]

Before you go out and spend $1000.00 for Elka shocks, get that darned thing laser aligned. PM Spyder Anne and she will get you Squared Away. I can literally ryde my Spyder without gripping the handle bars. Push with the outside hand and pull ever so slightly with the inside hand. Most Tim we can take corners with one hand. I am guessing that you are WAY out of alignment!

[PW2013STL]

Or I could slip my nephew some party money and have him take it for me!

I would advise that you get it to Joe and Ann (Squared Away) how ever you can as they are the best. I had them do an alignment on mine in Alaska last year and they checked it again in Springfield. Joe noticed that my air bag was not holding air - something that I missed. I was able to get my dealer in MN to fix it under warranty.

[BajaRon]

I think there is a big difference between the 2012 and the 2015 has the 2015 has different shocks and a bigger sway bar and of course different engine. my 2015 RT drove perfectly right out of the box. Even the stock seat broke in enough to where its comfortable for me. I would try anything to get it right because once you do you will love it, and I am a gold wing guy at heart.

The 2015 does not have a bigger sway bar than the 2012. BRP did re-engineer the frame and suspension making improvements to geometry and shocks. The sway bar on the 2015 is longer and mounts differently. But is functionally the same as the 2012 bar.

[Stumpy6Guns]

I think I may have found the problem- bad ball joint(s) on the left side. Tow truck is on the way.

[Bob Denman]

That'll do it...
While it's never good to find a busted part on your bike; at least you have a good idea as to what the source of the bigger problem was!
So I don't want this to sound horrible , but

[ARtraveler]

Glad to hear you found what may be the biggest part of the problem.

[Stumpy6Guns]

They loaned me a brand-new 2016 RTL with 3 miles on the clock for a couple of days. What a difference! It's more sensitive than mine, so it took some getting used to, but it handles like everyone says it should. The corners that gave me trouble before were easier to deal with, and I felt a lot more confident on this bike. I picked up some bad habits out of fear on my bike, and I had to work at riding correctly, but I'm glad it's my bike and not me!

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

They loaned me a brand-new 2016 RTL with 3 miles on the clock for a couple of days. What a difference! It's more sensitive than mine, so it took some getting used to, but it handles like everyone says it should. The corners that gave me trouble before were easier to deal with, and I felt a lot more confident on this bike. I picked up some bad habits out of fear on my bike, and I had to work at riding correctly, but I'm glad it's my bike and not me!

Now you know we weren't shi**** you! That's great!

[PW2013STL]

On finding the issue and for not giving up. I do have to warn you that after having the 16 to ride it will be hard to go back to the 12

[Bob Denman]

They loaned me a brand-new 2016 RTL with 3 miles on the clock for a couple of days. What a difference! It's more sensitive than mine, so it took some getting used to, but it handles like everyone says it should. The corners that gave me trouble before were easier to deal with, and I felt a lot more confident on this bike. I picked up some bad habits out of fear on my bike, and I had to work at riding correctly, but I'm glad it's my bike and not me!

That's the problem with the newer bikes.
Everything that you love about your current ride, is just as loveable on the new ones.
And the stuff that might have needed a bit of improvement: they knocked right out of the park!

Face it : the hook has been set, and you're doomed!

[PrairieSpyder]

I'm so glad you found the problem.

[Stumpy6Guns]

The price of the '16 is why I bought the '12! I just don't know how you guys can keep trading in for new rydes without going broke. The financial mechanics escape me!

[Bob Denman]

The price of the '16 is why I bought the '12! I just don't know how you guys can keep trading in for new rydes without going broke. The financial mechanics escape me!

It's actually pretty easy to understand...


10-mind-blowing-leonardo-dicaprio-facts-you-probably-didn-t-know-874154.jpg

[Stumpy6Guns]

It's the how that eludes me. These are not cheap rydes, and my pockets aren't deep. Let's say that I wanted to keep this one, after just buying the first one in May. It doesn't seem likely that the dealer will just take the trade and pay off the note without asking me to come up with more cash to cover the shortage or roll the difference into the new loan.

If the dealer could work it out so that between the two bikes, I didn't spend any more than if I had bought the '16 to start with, I'd probably go for it. Are you listening, Mr. Dealer?

[Babyblue]

I am sorry to hear you are struggling. I on the other hand cannot ride 2 wheels to save my soul.

That being said, when I bought mine new in 2012 I rode her home 90 miles with absolute confidence and comfort. I learned within a few miles not to man handle it. I ran between 60 and 70 mph all the way home. But, I had no preconceived notions about riding a Spyder. I let my machine guide me in how to rider her. In curves if I felt a pull, I leaned against it.

It sounds like you are comparing apples to oranges. Try to erase all negativity in your mind every time you go for a ride. Ride it like a snowmobile (if you ever have). Lighten that touch on the handle bars. No death grip! If she still pulls, then you may need an alignment. I never have had mine done though.

Don't lose hope. Maybe riding a new one will help, but the new ones are way different than the older ones so keep that in mind.

Good luck!

Blue

[Bobleach45]

Great that you found the culprit. Once you get past the bill and getting it fixed you'll be on your way to miles of smiles and happiness.

[cyclerider]

Here is my take. I am happy you found the issue. Some may say that I am a little off the hinges. I have 2013 RTS Spyder with no suspension mods. I am not spending several hundred dollars on any steering issues unless it is absolutely necessary. I have ridden many bikes over many years. When I first test road the Spyder, I thought. This thing handles like crap. In ten minutes I thought. I love the comfort on this thing. It handles ok. I adjusted quickly. After owning and riding the the Spyder for over a year now I noticed more "twitchiness" in the steering. I tried something while riding on a straight stretch in a cross wind and turbulence from a tractor trailer. I have tried this several times now. I set the cruise control and gently let go of the bars. (No Hands). The Spyder held a straight line for some time. Maybe a quarter mile. It still tracked pretty well beyond that with little adjustment from just a touch of a finger. I believe the steering is fine. I have no issues with the steering. It takes curves very well. (Although two wheels are more responsive in the twisties.) I have not ridden a Spyder with a laser alignment. It probably would be a noticeable difference. But I am pretty satisfied with the stock set up. Just my opinion.

[Bob S]

I've owned it for 5 1/2 weeks, and ridden it for 800 miles, and now I'm starting to wonder if it's me or the machine.
It just feels squirrely. I've read a bazillion posts, and I try to stay relaxed and do the things that you folks with much more experience have shared, but riding this thing is wearing me out. All I want is a nice, well-behaved machine that doesn't continually scare me like this one does.
It is very sensitive to roadway conditions and wind turbulence. Above 45 mph, I feel like I am fighting to stay in my lane as it darts about. Rain grooves and patched asphalt especially cause trouble, but smooth is not trouble-free.
I installed the Baja Ron swaybar and links, and I'm trying to be objective, but I can't say for sure that they helped. I've methodically changed the tire pressures in order to find the optimal settings and have settled into 18.5 psi in front and 28 psi in the rear.
I haven't had it aligned yet; wish someone in Escondido would buy the equipment so I don't have to drive 100 miles to get it done.
The drive belt starts slapping time at 5800 rpm, unless I'm going uphill and then it starts earlier. I checked the tension with the little click gauge, and it's at 160 lbs. A belt tensioner is needed.

Maybe it's fine. I don't have a frame of reference to compare it to; I should probably take a new one out for a ride to get my head calibrated.

I think my biggest fear (other than safety) is finding out that I bought someone else's problems and it's just worn out and will take a lot of $$ to make right.

Have you looked at your front shocks?

I have the Baja Ron's sway bar, but I also put on his shock adjusters. Used a couple of turns and they really have helped.

Good luck.

BobS

[Stumpy6Guns]

Great that you found the culprit. Once you get past the bill and getting it fixed you'll be on your way to miles of smiles and happiness.

Fortunately, I purchased an extended warranty that will cover the repairs. The sad part is that my Spyder will be in the shop for at least a couple of weeks; I'm having them fix a few other issues while they have it.

• Ball joints
• Install air scoops to cool down my foot and hind end
• Fix drive belt vibration (@5800 RPM, it vibrates like a cricket on crack)
• Glove box latches, but doesn't lock

[Pirate looks at --]

You know the dealer maybe motivated to move units so you may as well ask the dealer, what cane you do for me? The worst thing that happens is that you have your Spyder fixed and you ryde off into the sunset!

[Bob Denman]

There's no harm in asking...

[Stumpy6Guns]

I talked to the sales guys when I dropped off the loaner yesterday, but they weren't biting. They just smiled and said mine will ryde just like the '16 when it comes out of the shop. Who's playing whom here? Why can't they just shut up and take my money?