Parking brake issue

[REDRAM]

Help!! 2012 RT-S parking brake is locked up. Pressing button does not release it. I've been reading relevant posts on this issue and thought I knew how to release it but no go. I loosened the lock nut on the cable back by the rear pulley and brakes are loose enough to move it but still can't get the parking brake light (!) To go off. Any more ideas? Please!!

[happyspyder2039]

Help!! 2012 RT-S parking brake is locked up. Pressing button does not release it. I've been reading relevant posts on this issue and thought I knew how to release it but no go. I loosened the lock nut on the cable back by the rear pulley and brakes are loose enough to move it but still can't get the parking brake light (!) To go off. Any more ideas? Please!!

Chances are the cable came off the front actuator located on the right side. There was a recall bulletin to secure cable

[REDRAM]

Chances are the cable came off the front actuator located on the right side. There was a recall bulletin to secure cable

Thanks for the help. I'll be on it 1st thing in the a m.

[Habib]

I was having trouble with mine, hosed it down with WD40 and it works fine now.

[jerpinoy]

Chances are the cable came off the front actuator located on the right side. There was a recall bulletin to secure cable

Can you sent a picture where the actuator is?

[REDRAM]

Chances are the cable came off the front actuator located on the right side. There was a recall bulletin to secure cable

I assume by actuator you're talking about the front pulley. I pulled the right panels today and the cable is still on the pulleys, front and rear. I lubricated the cables with silicone spray. Nothing I try does any good. Any more suggestions please?

[vintage]

Had an issue on my RT also with park brake...check your terminals at the rocker switch on your console.. mine were dirty causing a poor connection.

[REDRAM]

Had an issue on my RT also with park brake...check your terminals at the rocker switch on your console.. mine were dirty causing a poor connection.

Will do. Thanks

[Wfreysr]

I assume by actuator you're talking about the front pulley. I pulled the right panels today and the cable is still on the pulleys, front and rear. I lubricated the cables with silicone spray. Nothing I try does any good. Any more suggestions please?

Check to make sure the 2 pigtails connectors are still together supplying power to actuator.
I removed the rail on right side to get the airbox out when I changed plugs this past weekend and didn't realize they pulled apart till I had everything back together and couldn't get the brake to release. Had to tear things apart the next day and discovered this. Now aok.

[NautiBrit]

Have you checked the fuse?

[Doc - Riverside]

Help!! 2012 RT-S parking brake is locked up. Pressing button does not release it. I've been reading relevant posts on this issue and thought I knew how to release it but no go. I loosened the lock nut on the cable back by the rear pulley and brakes are loose enough to move it but still can't get the parking brake light (!) To go off. Any more ideas? Please!!

Parking light will not go out if the front pulley doesn't rotate to the unlock position. If you got the brake to release you can drive it but carry a couple of short 2x4 to chock the wheels when you park it. Does the windshield go up and down? if so the fuse is good and you have a electrical problem probably between the switch and the wpm module. Dealer can easily isolate the problem area by hooking it up to the BUDS computer and command the brake to set and release. If it does it is in the switch. If it doesn't it's the WPM module and or the motor for the brake.

[REDRAM]

Parking light will not go out if the front pulley doesn't rotate to the unlock position. If you got the brake to release you can drive it but carry a couple of short 2x4 to chock the wheels when you park it. Does the windshield go up and down? if so the fuse is good and you have a electrical problem probably between the switch and the wpm module. Dealer can easily isolate the problem area by hooking it up to the BUDS computer and command the brake to set and release. If it does it is in the switch. If it doesn't it's the WPM module and or the motor for the brake.

You guys have been great, responding to my problem. Thanks most to the one who suggested it could be the connection
At the rocker switch. That was the problem!! It is now working after only manipulating the switch a bit. I finally was able to push and pry on the central panel (dashboard bezzel)and was able to get the plastic rivit loose from the glove box where it connects to the central panel. ThAt allowed me to raise the panel enough to, like I said, manipulated the switch connection enough to get better contact. In order to pull it all the way out, there are straps way down in there that have to be cut loose. I'm gonna settle for what I have for now and not go any deeper. I also want to pass on that information somebody gave me about the analog gas gauge. The Richardson, Texas motorsports(Jerry in service) confirmed if you take the wires from the back of the gauge and connect them together the signal will then be picked up by the computer and sent to the console/screen for digital display. That's my next endeavor. He did say that you can't do that with the temp gauge. That's all for now folks. Thanks again.

[REDRAM]

Had an issue on my RT also with park brake...check your terminals at the rocker switch on your console.. mine were dirty causing a poor connection.

From the looks of your picture, our trikes are pretty much identical, just mines a '12. You were right about the rocker switch. Working fine now!!! Keeping my fingers crossed. Much appreciated.

[vintage]

From the looks of your picture, our trikes are pretty much identical, just mines a '12. You were right about the rocker switch. Working fine now!!! Keeping my fingers crossed. Much appreciated.

You're welcome

[Doc - Riverside]

I also want to pass on that information somebody gave me about the analog gas gauge. The Richardson, Texas motorsports(Jerry in service) confirmed if you take the wires from the back of the gauge and connect them together the signal will then be picked up by the computer and sent to the console/screen for digital display. That's my next endeavor. He did say that you can't do that with the temp gauge. That's all for now folks. Thanks again.

Not sure you were given correct info about the transfer to digital gauges. To get the digital gauges to display on the screen you have to disconnect both analog gauges. You do not connect any wires to the analog gauge plugs, doing so my cause more harm than good. Just leave the plugs disconnected and you will be fine.

[Araña805]

You guys have been great, responding to my problem. Thanks most to the one who suggested it could be the connection
At the rocker switch. That was the problem!! It is now working after only manipulating the switch a bit. I finally was able to push and pry on the central panel (dashboard bezzel)and was able to get the plastic rivit loose from the glove box where it connects to the central panel. ThAt allowed me to raise the panel enough to, like I said, manipulated the switch connection enough to get better contact. In order to pull it all the way out, there are straps way down in there that have to be cut loose. I'm gonna settle for what I have for now and not go any deeper. I also want to pass on that information somebody gave me about the analog gas gauge. The Richardson, Texas motorsports(Jerry in service) confirmed if you take the wires from the back of the gauge and connect them together the signal will then be picked up by the computer and sent to the console/screen for digital display. That's my next endeavor. He did say that you can't do that with the temp gauge. That's all for now folks. Thanks again.

I am having issues with my parking brake and I want to try your suggestions. How did manipulate the cable to the rocker switch? What panels did you remove? Your reply is appreciated. Thanks