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  1. #26
    Very Active Member Grandpot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wengerda View Post
    I am looking at the manual, is the relay at "Left JCase fuse box", fuse #1-- 40A-- VCM pump?
    I don't have a manual in front of me. Take off the cover of the fuse box located on the wall of the frunk. There are about 4 or 5 relays running left to right. They are all about 3/4" square. The left most (as you are looking at it) is R1. Pull it out and the pump can not operate.
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  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grandpot View Post
    I don't have a manual in front of me. Take off the cover of the fuse box located on the wall of the frunk. There are about 4 or 5 relays running left to right. They are all about 3/4" square. The left most (as you are looking at it) is R1. Pull it out and the pump can not operate.
    got it
    2016 Spyder F3 Limited, black, Special Edition, SE6, belt tensioner, Bajaron swaybar, AKARAPOVIC, F4 windshield with vent. Previous 2015 RTS in black and 2011 RT Limited, SE5 with Bajaron Swaybar and Bumpskid

  3. #28
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    I have a 2012 RTS SE5 doing the same thing right now. I had the compressor replaced about a year ago under warrantee because it failed. Mine is doing the same thing by showing "Manual" on the screen when you hit the button to adjust the ride, softer or harder. Sometimes when I am riding it will work and show on the screen adjusting to a softer or harder ride. I have an appointment to take my bike in next week to see what it is. I believe that the compressor is not working again because I had to manually put air into the shock.
    2012 RTS SE5

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grandpot View Post
    The easiest way to disable the compressor without disturbing anything else that operates on the same fuse is to remove relay R1. Its sole purpose is to run the pump. R1 is located in the fuse box in the frunk. It's in the upper left corner as you are standing in front of the Spyder, facing the rear.
    Okay I try and removed the R1 but that relay fuse is also the reverse gear for the bike, you cant use the reverse gear without the relay. Also without the R1 relay, I see error code P0924
    Last edited by wengerda; 06-24-2016 at 03:26 PM.
    2016 Spyder F3 Limited, black, Special Edition, SE6, belt tensioner, Bajaron swaybar, AKARAPOVIC, F4 windshield with vent. Previous 2015 RTS in black and 2011 RT Limited, SE5 with Bajaron Swaybar and Bumpskid

  5. #30
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    On my 2011 RT had same issue press to adjust would show squares for ride then goes to manual. Turned out bad compressor.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by SpongeBob2015 View Post
    Mine is in the shop right now for the EXACT same problem.
    let us know what you find out

  7. #32
    Very Active Member Grandpot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wengerda View Post
    Okay I try and removed the R1 but that relay fuse is also the reverse gear for the bike, you cant use the reverse gear without the relay. Also without the R1 relay, I see error code P0924

    I'm not sure if we are speaking of the same part. You refer to R1 as a "relay fuse." There is no relay fuse. You have fuses and relays. The R1 relay is a 3/4" black cube with 4 prongs sticking out of it. If that is what you pulled and it affects Reverse, I am surprised. The prints don't show anything relating it to reverse. Nanny must be looking at it without any indication on the prints.

    Don't pull any fuses. The fuses are bright colored and have 2 prongs.
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  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grandpot View Post
    I'm not sure if we are speaking of the same part. You refer to R1 as a "relay fuse." There is no relay fuse. You have fuses and relays. The R1 relay is a 3/4" black cube with 4 prongs sticking out of it. If that is what you pulled and it affects Reverse, I am surprised. The prints don't show anything relating it to reverse. Nanny must be looking at it without any indication on the prints.

    Don't pull any fuses. The fuses are bright colored and have 2 prongs.
    Yes the relay 1 with 4 prongs is also the reverse, as soon as I put back the R1 relay my reverse was working and all the codes cleared.
    2016 Spyder F3 Limited, black, Special Edition, SE6, belt tensioner, Bajaron swaybar, AKARAPOVIC, F4 windshield with vent. Previous 2015 RTS in black and 2011 RT Limited, SE5 with Bajaron Swaybar and Bumpskid

  9. #34
    Very Active Member Grandpot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wengerda View Post
    Yes the relay 1 with 4 prongs is also the reverse, as soon as I put back the R1 relay my reverse was working and all the codes cleared.
    Wow, I didn't see that one coming. Nanny really surprised me. No indication at all in the prints. Sorry I misled you. The only other way I can see to disable the compressor without affecting anything else is to disconnect it at the plug, but that plug is a real PIT to get to.
    2011 RTS (Sold to a very nice lady)
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  10. #35
    Very Active Member Grandpot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grandpot View Post
    Wow, I didn't see that one coming. Nanny really surprised me. No indication at all in the prints. Sorry I misled you. The only other way I can see to disable the compressor without affecting anything else is to disconnect it at the plug, but that plug is a real PIT to get to.
    I think I just figured out where the error in logic is. First, I just went out and pulled R1 from my 2011 RTS and reverse worked fine. I was under the impression you had a 2011 RT, which after looking at your post again I saw it was your previous Spyder and now you have a 2015, thus lies the problem, Wrong Electrical Prints! If you have 2015 prints, find the relay that controls the pump. Maybe it is still R1, but in a different physical location. If you don't have prints, hopefully someone that does will chime in and give you the information.
    2011 RTS (Sold to a very nice lady)
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  11. #36
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    Okay I rode over 50 miles this week to work. I put manually 80 PSI before starting the trip. I checked the PSI after riding and a week and is keeping 41 PSI. It does appear that the air compressor kicks in when I put manually 80 PSI and takes it down to approximately 41 PSi and does not lose or add any more air automatically. My question, with what we know, can I continue to ride the spyder until the end of the season? I am assuming that loses half of the air and then stay steady on the psi. Comments.
    2016 Spyder F3 Limited, black, Special Edition, SE6, belt tensioner, Bajaron swaybar, AKARAPOVIC, F4 windshield with vent. Previous 2015 RTS in black and 2011 RT Limited, SE5 with Bajaron Swaybar and Bumpskid

  12. #37
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    Okay took my bike to the dealer, I will let you know the findings in a few days
    2016 Spyder F3 Limited, black, Special Edition, SE6, belt tensioner, Bajaron swaybar, AKARAPOVIC, F4 windshield with vent. Previous 2015 RTS in black and 2011 RT Limited, SE5 with Bajaron Swaybar and Bumpskid

  13. #38
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    Well after dropping my bike yesterday, I received a call from the tech about the reason of my air bag is not inflating. First I had a Corbin heated seat installed a few months ago. The Corbin tech cut the top cover of the fuse box cover to bring the heated seat wire to one of the fuses. The fuse box cover needed to be cut to fit the wire to a fuse. Well first the fuse cover is on recall due to moisture, having the box cut, it brought moisture and corrosion into 2 relays, therefore the 2 relays and the recalled fuse box cover need to be replaced. It will take the dealer 3 days to receive the new relays and fuse cover. I told the tech to remove the Corbin wire and as soon as they receive the relays and cover, I will bring the bike back. I am not sure why Corbin seat in Daytona Florida had to cut the fuse cover without telling me. Either way the air bag does not have any issues.
    Last edited by wengerda; 07-11-2016 at 04:30 PM.
    2016 Spyder F3 Limited, black, Special Edition, SE6, belt tensioner, Bajaron swaybar, AKARAPOVIC, F4 windshield with vent. Previous 2015 RTS in black and 2011 RT Limited, SE5 with Bajaron Swaybar and Bumpskid

  14. #39
    Active Member ris's Avatar
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    I had the same problem on my 2015 RTS. After riding about 2 miles the gage would say manual. I found a bolt missing on the left side of the rear swing arm. This allowed the switch to move out of position and over fill the shock. Replaced the bolt with a 6mm by 1.0 thread and used a check nut and have had no problems. The ride is much improved.

  15. #40
    Very Active Member Roadster Renovations's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wengerda View Post
    Maybe I was confusing. When I start the bike the LCD does show the up and down arrow squares, when I start riding the bike after 10-15 minutes and I press the shock switch, the shock up and down arrows changes to show "Manual" (instead of up and down arrows as before) I went to the bike this morning after an hour, checked the fuses, all look good, started the bike, no brake and in 1st gear, and press the shock switch and again it shows the up and down arrow squares. If I press down the squares goes down etc. The only thing I do not hear is the air compressor going up and down (should I went I press the shock setting?) . Also there are no error codes. Do you think still is the sensor? Thanks
    I had the same thing that I just repaired. I had a burned up pump and mine did the same. I have now installed a aftermarket and it works great, just like new.

  16. #41
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    The saga continues, the dealer stated that this repair was not on warranty because, Corbin when they installed the heated seat, they tapped on one of the small fuses, and also made a small hole in the fuse cover. Therefore the dealer is stating that I had water going inside the fuse box and maybe shorten the 2 relays for the compressor. Now they are calling BRP to see if the compressor is on warranty. I am pretty sure if they tell them that I had water then I will have to pay for a new compressor. Except the 2 relays it showed a little of corrosion, all the other fuses were dry. Also the wire Corbin tapped to one of the fuses, the hole made in the bottom of the fuse box, there is no way you can get water inside. Our Can Am dealers in the area are not great, but also they will not help. I will wait for them to tell me BRP if BRP will cover the compressor on warranty or not. If not how much I should expect to pay for a new compressor and install. Thanks
    2016 Spyder F3 Limited, black, Special Edition, SE6, belt tensioner, Bajaron swaybar, AKARAPOVIC, F4 windshield with vent. Previous 2015 RTS in black and 2011 RT Limited, SE5 with Bajaron Swaybar and Bumpskid

  17. #42
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    I was getting this also and then realized my horn and fog lights didn't work. Had developed a leak in the bag and it burnt out the compressor. Try the horn and if I'd doesn't work the fire is blown and you need to get it in. Mine was on my 2013 RT Ltd. I would think you must still be under warranty which is good. Mine was fixed under my extended warranty and with the labor and a new bag & compressor they charged $880.

  18. #43
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    Default Shock settings

    Quote Originally Posted by wengerda View Post
    I never saw the word Manual when I press the setting in the LCD. Always an up/down arrow.
    Had the exact same problem with mine. It was a faulty air compressor. Pittbull took care of me.

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