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  1. #1
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    Default Bolt a Seat Back in Place.

    Hi Guys!
    Well; I finally mounted a set of armrests for the Missus.
    Only thing is: I've got a seat sitting loose, and I haven't figured out the right version of the "hokey-0Pokey", to get it back into place.
    At least I haven't lost the square nuts, or collars down into the recesses of the bike yet.
    Since the collars seem longer than the area where you put them: does the part that sticks out go to the outside? Is there a trick to getting the seat to slide rearward into place?
    Once in place: do you then put the square nuts down there, and attack them from the other side with the mounting bolts?

    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  2. #2
    Very Active Member finless's Avatar
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    You put the nuts (with the little black boxes) into the bracket area. These little boxes capture the nut so you should not need a wrench on the nut.
    Feed the tubes into the seat hinges.
    Put the seat in place and wiggle around until you can push the long bolts through.

    Yes the tubes are longer than the seat hinge. They are suppose to be as they act like a bushing.

    Bob
    2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
    Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
    Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
    2011 RT-S SM5 , Baja Ron Black

  3. #3
    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by finless View Post
    You put the nuts (with the little black boxes) into the bracket area. These little boxes capture the nut so you should not need a wrench on the nut.
    Feed the tubes into the seat hinges.
    Put the seat in place and wiggle around until you can push the long bolts through.

    Yes the tubes are longer than the seat hinge. They are suppose to be as they act like a bushing.

    Bob
    No video??


    I wasn't there but I still care!
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  4. #4
    Very Active Member pegasus1300's Avatar
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    Default

    and remember to put a couple of rags in the black hole so when it all falls out you don't lose it.

    Happy TRAils/NSD
    Paul

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  5. #5
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    [QUOTE=Bob Denman;1146078]Hi Guys!
    Well; I finally mounted a set of armrests for the Missus.
    Only thing is: I've got a seat sitting loose, and I haven't figured out the right version of the "hokey-0Pokey", to get it back into place.
    At least I haven't lost the square nuts, or collars down into the recesses of the bike yet.
    Since the collars seem longer than the area where you put them: does the part that sticks out go to the outside? Is there a trick to getting the seat to slide rearward into place?
    Once in place: do you then put the square nuts down there, and attack them from the other side with the mounting bolts?

    [/QUOTEHaving replaced the stock seats on two Spyders, here's what I do. Remove the passenger backrest to provide a little extra space to see and work. Also remove the strut (or at least disconnect it from the seat). Have a piece of 2X4 or something to hold up the seat at times. The most important thing I learned is to put tape over the fronts of the channel in which the square "nuts" slide so that they remain close to where they'll be needed. Just leave the tape on in case you have to remove the seat again. There's no need to worry about the sleeves sticking out one side or the other. They'll take care of themselves when you tighten things down. The bolt will be inserted from the outside with the nut on the inside. Of course the bolt goes through the sleeve and the "slider." To get the seat reinstalled, slide it back, keeping it as level as possible while you're eyeing the mounting holes. Once you get it in (you may need to use that short wood piece in the front of the seat to see back there) insert the bolt, sleeve and nut on each side, but DON'T TIGHTEN THEM TOO MUCH because you'll have to "play" with the seat it get it properly positioned. Rather than working under the seat I work from above. It's easier on my back and there's enough space since the passenger backrest if off. To make it even easier I bought a ratchet that not only operates in the usual way, but also allows you to tighten just by turning the handle as you would with a screw driver. There's not much room to swing a regular ratchet. Since you didn't tighten the seat you can move it forward and backward and even the front of the seat left and right to obtain proper alignment. You'll want to be certain the seat lock engages properly. Then some fine tuning. It might take a couple of tries. You may find that you must tighten the bolts a little more to retain the seats position. Once you have the seat in the right spot tighten the bolts (they don't have to be real tight) reconnect the strut and replace the passenger backrest.

  6. #6
    Very Active Member ThreeWheels's Avatar
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    Lot's of good suggestions.
    I've never removed the passenger back rest, but it seems like a good idea.
    I agree with pegasus. Stuff some rags or tape over the holes in the back of the pan so that when you drop the fasteneres, they don't fall into a black hole.
    Hold the nuts in place with a little tape just like finless Bob suggested. That man has a powerful set of skills.
    You can mount the tubes in place using some vaseline or other thick grease to hold them in place while you set it in place.
    Leave the bolts in the back a little loose so the seat can move forward and back.
    Latch the seat in place. Once latched in place tighten down the bolts in the back to lock it in place. That way the seat will pivot up and down in the right place.
    If it ain't broke, don't break it.
    IBA #47122
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  7. #7
    Very Active Member Copperman's Avatar
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    To align the seat, after the nuts and bolts are connected, I leave them loose. Then, lower the seat so the locking mechanism catches. That's where the seat is perfect. Then, tighten the seat bolts.

    Reinstall the seat piston and the backrest. Job is done.
    2020 Chalk, RT Limited, Dark and matching RT622 trailer and BRP hitch. BRP Drivers Backrest, Auxiliary Light, Garmin Zumo XT, GPS Support, RT Rear Panel and Travel Cover. Spyderpops LEDs on fenders, mirrors, saddlebags, top case and RT rear panel. Spyderpops Rock Guard. BajaRon Swaybar, Wolo Bad Boy horn, Freedom Windshield, Elka Shocks.
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  8. #8
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    Thanks, Guys!
    I'm going to tape up the "chasms", that swallow hardware... (I already lost a 10mm socket...)
    Taping the square nuts into place seems like an excellent idea!
    When I attempted to get the seat slid back into place, it seemed that I couldn't get the bushings started on the proper path. They just sort of hit something; went "thunk!", and would stop...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  9. #9
    Very Active Member 2Paw's Avatar
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    Ultimate has an install video that was was very helpful for me when I installed my comfort seat.

    https://ultimateseats.ca/installation-help
    Ed

    They told me not to give up on my dreams, so I went back to sleep.

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  10. #10
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    Thanks for the video link; that may just "turn the tides".
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  11. #11
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Thanks, Guys! [emoji106]
    I'm going to tape up the "chasms", that swallow hardware... (I already lost a 10mm socket...)
    Taping the square nuts into place seems like an excellent idea!
    When I attempted to get the seat slid back into place, it seemed that I couldn't get the bushings started on the proper path. They just sort of hit something; went "thunk!", and would stop...
    The bushings fit snug & slide into grooves.

    Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

    2014 Copper RTS

    Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
    2014 RTS , Copper! (officially Cognac)

  12. #12
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    Thanks!
    Using the benefit of hindsight; I probably was just being too careful...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  13. #13
    Very Active Member irvin48's Avatar
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    post pics when you are done. lotsa good info.
    2015 rts-white pearl- mods- '16 F3 fat 6 chrome wheels,
    and some little stuff. setback utopia backrest, baja ron
    sway bar, oem adj. air deflectors, marlin gps compass,
    lamonster fbb foot pegs[modified brackets], lamonts
    vibration damper, rock guard, and side case stiffener kit,
    . brp comfort seat. , fomozas and
    altimax, magic mirror mts, and wide mirrors.
    [joyce & irvin toms]

  14. #14
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    The armrests bolt down to the bike; they're already in place.
    Pics later on today!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  15. #15
    Very Active Member Tango's Avatar
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    I solved the seat bolt problem by not using them. Two zip ties. The largest you have. It works. Tom
    Baloo is my name. Spyders are my game. Well, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, yes, it's a doo-bah-dee-doo, I mean a doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee, doo-bee-dee-doo. And, well, now. Ha ha! What have we here?



    2020 Petrol Blue Metallic RTL

  16. #16
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default There you go....

    You can't not get it now.... so much information, suggerstions and even a video link. Put down the coffee and get to it....
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  17. #17
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    I've got to actually get around this entire "work thing"; before I can grab wrenches...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  18. #18
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    Default Some Pictures

    Armrests1.jpgArmrests2.jpgArmrests3.jpg
    I like the way that they bolt to the "guts" of the bike. They seem to mount nice and solid, with very little flexing. You can easily set the amount of effort it takes to have them pivot out of your way.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  19. #19
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    Default Epilogue...

    After last weekend; I only had the seat hinges "cable-tied", to their moorings...
    After grinding the final fitment in my molars all week ; I tackled the homestretch: armed with a couple of tools, and a Magnum-sized lack of common sense.
    I finally decided to remove the passenger backrest, in order to give me better "eyeballs-on the prize" capability. This made a HUGE difference, I have to heartily suggest this step for anyone who is attempting any work that involves removing the seat.
    Now that I had more room, I Duct-Taped up the three spots that could swallow hardware and tools. While I had the tape out, I also used it to capture the nuts in their proper locations.
    I greased the spacers, slid them in place, (Covered the "tank" with protective cloths), and positioned the seat into a rough location.
    Surprisingly: it slid into place with almost no wiggling or cussing needed. I guess that I got lucky!
    Then: I couldn't get the bolts to start!
    Taking a wild swing at the problem, I decided to latch the seat into place up front. I figured that it would at least give me the proper fore and aft positioning.
    That did the trick!
    It only took a little bit of playing with the vertical plane, and the bolts slid into place, and I was able to get them started into the nuts!
    At that point: it was just down to tightening things up, replacing the strut, plugging in the passenger sensor, and replacing the strut.

    Now, I'm a happy camper again!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  20. #20
    Active Member Holub's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    Hi Guys!
    Well; I finally mounted a set of armrests for the Missus.
    Only thing is: I've got a seat sitting loose, and I haven't figured out the right version of the "hokey-0Pokey", to get it back into place.
    At least I haven't lost the square nuts, or collars down into the recesses of the bike yet.
    Since the collars seem longer than the area where you put them: does the part that sticks out go to the outside? Is there a trick to getting the seat to slide rearward into place?
    Once in place: do you then put the square nuts down there, and attack them from the other side with the mounting bolts?

    Just sayin....did anyone suggest how to insert the square nuts thingy in or thingy out and why. Oh.....by the way your instal was quite interesting....Congratulations!

  21. #21
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    I had the "thingy" out... and forward!

    It worked...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  22. #22
    Very Active Member Bam Bam and Pebbles's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    I had the "thingy" out... and forward!

    It worked...
    You guys and your way too technical jargon has got me completely confused.

    Current Ride
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  23. #23
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    The more that I thought about the "Thingy"; it's probably is used as an indexing tab, and should be tried to the inside. There's probably a hole in there, that captures it, and holds the nut in exactly the correct spot.
    Last edited by Bob Denman; 06-27-2016 at 07:27 AM.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  24. #24
    Member spankym's Avatar
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    Default ultimate video

    go to ultimate seats... they have great videos on seat removal/install...
    also great tips of tape over nut slot and handle driver that turns.
    hope this helps.... btw just changed ultimate seat over yesterday myself

  25. #25
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    And...after completion...have a Cognac, do the Hokey Pokey and turn yourself around.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

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