Adjusting the air in the rear suspension

[Mazo EMS2]

So, when we're toolin' down the road I'll occasionally feel like I wanna add some air to the rear end. I press and hold the switch and the dash shows an orange "manual" light as I'm holding the switch. I'm pretty confident that I can feel the back end rise up as it should, but how do I know the pressure is holding? Does it go back to a default pressure when the bike is turned off, or does it stay at the added pressure? How can I tell if it's leaking down? Is it as simple as taking a measurement in the garage and checking it a couple times. I tried to read up on it in the manual without much luck. Just wondering what the best way is to see if it's working right

[Frank G]

http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ith-Viair-097c

Read the above post. If the horn won't blow (the compressor, horn, and grip heaters are on the same fuse) you have a bad fuse which means the compressor is failing.

[WARWAGON]

So, when we're toolin' down the road I'll occasionally feel like I wanna add some air to the rear end. I press and hold the switch and the dash shows an orange "manual" light as I'm holding the switch. I'm pretty confident that I can feel the back end rise up as it should, but how do I know the pressure is holding? Does it go back to a default pressure when the bike is turned off, or does it stay at the added pressure? How can I tell if it's leaking down? Is it as simple as taking a measurement in the garage and checking it a couple times. I tried to read up on it in the manual without much luck. Just wondering what the best way is to see if it's working right

Under the seat is the manual fill. Check the pressure there. But as stated if horn won't blow fuse for on board compressor is blow.


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[Bob Denman]

If the fuse is good: the "strut" may have come loose...

[Snowbelt Spyder]

So, when we're toolin' down the road I'll occasionally feel like I wanna add some air to the rear end. I press and hold the switch and the dash shows an orange "manual" light as I'm holding the switch. I'm pretty confident that I can feel the back end rise up as it should, but how do I know the pressure is holding? Does it go back to a default pressure when the bike is turned off, or does it stay at the added pressure? How can I tell if it's leaking down? Is it as simple as taking a measurement in the garage and checking it a couple times. I tried to read up on it in the manual without much luck. Just wondering what the best way is to see if it's working right

Well, let's work on your questions. The error code "Manual" is just the cluster telling you that your requested setting is not matching the setting signal it's getting back from the sensor.(Bob's photo). And you need to put air in manually. To be sure about the compressor, with the bike idling, put it in gear, release the parking brake and foot brake. Adjust the setting switch and watch your headlights shining on the garage wall. If the compressor is working, the lights will move up and down and you'll hear it. When the compressor fails, sometimes it blows the fuse and sometimes it doesn't.

Check the air pressure with the valve under the seat just like you check air pressure in a tire. The system does not go to a default pressure, it should hold whatever the last setting was. Keep in mind, every time you check it, it will drop 4 or 5 pounds, so check it once, and then again after sitting for a few hours or overnight. You may even want to add some air using that valve if necessary. 50# is a good middle band number.

Experience tells us that, with a 2010, the compressor has probably failed because that's what they do. But of course, check your fuse and sensor linkage, too. If your system holds air, you can operate it manually based on that chart in your manual.

[spyderCodes]

Check the sensor link that ties the ride height sensor to the swing arm.
There is a bolt that sometimes, for reasons that aren't apparent to me, not there.
This can be seen by looking under the Spyder and looking at where the rear shock is connected to the swing arm.

[Mazo EMS2]

OK, I'll check that stuff. I know my horn works, and I do believe the system is functioning, because as I mentioned, when I hit the switch, it sure feels like the back end comes up. I'll check it though in the garage sitting still. I was just wondering if it might be leaking out or if it did indeed return to a default pressure.

Thanks all!

[jcmcalpinjr]

Thanks for the info on the sensor link. I have been having problems with my new 2016 RTS and that was the problem

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[Mazo EMS2]

Once again, I feel like an idiot. I raised up the seat yesterday and checked the pressure in the airbag. It was down to 20psi. Heck I've adjusted it "up" multiple times while riding, just never checked it sitting still....I wonder just how low it actually was. So, I filled it to 50 with my garage compressor last night. Checked today and it was holding just fine, still at 50. Then I checked the onboard compressor. IT seems to be working fine as well. Kept the gauge on it and it pumped up to 80 with no problem, and released air fine as well. Sorry for yet another confusing thread... I was just thinking that since the "Manual" signal was orange while I held the pressure switch, there was an issue. It doesn't give any indication of the pressure or anything, just stays orange.

[Cruzr Joe]

Well, let's work on your questions. The error code "Manual" is just the cluster telling you that your requested setting is not matching the setting signal it's getting back from the sensor.(Bob's photo). And you need to put air in manually. To be sure about the compressor, with the bike idling, put it in gear, release the parking brake and foot brake. Adjust the setting switch and watch your headlights shining on the garage wall. If the compressor is working, the lights will move up and down and you'll hear it. When the compressor fails, sometimes it blows the fuse and sometimes it doesn't.

Check the air pressure with the valve under the seat just like you check air pressure in a tire. The system does not go to a default pressure, it should hold whatever the last setting was. Keep in mind, every time you check it, it will drop 4 or 5 pounds, so check it once, and then again after sitting for a few hours or overnight. You may even want to add some air using that valve if necessary. 50# is a good middle band number.

Experience tells us that, with a 2010, the compressor has probably failed because that's what they do. But of course, check your fuse and sensor linkage, too. If your system holds air, you can operate it manually based on that chart in your manual.

, compressor went bad on my 2015 RTL and it showed up on the dash as "Manual".


Cruzr Joe

[Doc - Riverside]

Pressing and holding the air bag switch will not get you anywhere. The way the system works is the computer has 5 presets that are displayed on the screen. You press and release the switch and watch the display go to the new setting. press and release again will go to next setting.

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Once again, I feel like an idiot. I raised up the seat yesterday and checked the pressure in the airbag. It was down to 20psi. Heck I've adjusted it "up" multiple times while riding, just never checked it sitting still....I wonder just how low it actually was. So, I filled it to 50 with my garage compressor last night. Checked today and it was holding just fine, still at 50. Then I checked the onboard compressor. IT seems to be working fine as well. Kept the gauge on it and it pumped up to 80 with no problem, and released air fine as well. Sorry for yet another confusing thread... I was just thinking that since the "Manual" signal was orange while I held the pressure switch, there was an issue. It doesn't give any indication of the pressure or anything, just stays orange.

No friend, don't feel like an idiot, because there IS an issue. The system should maintain pressure automatically - the way your owner's manual describes - and not show you the "Manual" error message. So, you've verified your compressor works and that there is no leakage. You didn't mention if you have checked the sensor linkage arm underneath, the electrical connector, etc. See Bob's photo. The arm from the sensor should point to the rear, and then down to the swing arm. Also, are you the original owner and have you EVER seen it working correctly? Because there is one other odd ball thing. There's a screen in BUDS where you have to check a box to tell the cluster that the ACS system is installed on that bike. Just wondering. The only other troubleshooting that's indicated for your symptoms is to have a dealer check out the sensor and do a sensor reset procedure.

Or, you can just keep things the way they are and run it manually. Your call.

[safecracker]

Could be a bad ASC switch. Mine has been replaced twice. Bruce

[Mazo EMS2]

Well, no I did not verify the sensor linkage. I'll do that next. If I recall that got removed for a tire change and I know I put it back on the same way. I'll check it again. So the components are working, just not as "automatically" as they should. Thanks again all..