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  1. #1
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    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Central Texas
    Spyder Garage

    Default 2013 ST Limited SE5 Deep Dive Part 2 (Brakes)

    Summary: The brake flush was easy. I read everything in the forum posted about the task I was going to perform, there's a wealth of information. Said another way, there's some excellent advice. When I got stuck, I asked on the forum, got help and unstuck. There are things I did that improved on the manual's recommendation such as Motion Pro's Bleed Valve. Tools - I used 6 point sockets, torx drivers, and hex drivers so I didn't round off bolts. I love Ann's Spyder more than the shop; thus, I pay closer attention to the details.

    I removed the rear brake caliper. Shouldn't have done this since the brake pads were good, teach me to look better next time. Anyhow, I learned some valuable lessons. Torqued the caliper bolts back to 77 lbf-ft with loctite. The reference to the pad pins torque seems to be incorrect at 34 lbf-ft. As advised in a another thread ( I tightened it up good and snug with medium loctite and reinserted the pin. Big shout out to IGETAROUND for the assistance. The parking brake adjustment went smoothly as directed in the manual. I see no reason to replace the caliper bolts (screws as manual states but look like bolts to me) and pad pin retaining clip. Just added some medium loctite to the bolts and pad pin.

    I didn't remove the muffler or all the cable and brake line clips as directed in the manual. I removed the last rubber cable clip with a small zip tie. Yup, I took short cuts. I noted that if I were to remove the front calipers, I'd have to remove the front wheels.

    Why I change my fluid every two years:
    I used Pentosin Super DOT 4 which has excellent properties, see referenced chart in article above. Shout out to PMK for the recommendation.

    I used a Motion Pro 08-0143 Hydraulic Brake Bleeder which allows only one way flow and prevents air from returning into the lines. Bought 5/16 vinyl hose from Home Depot and cut to lengths that worked for me. Shorter length to bleed valve and longer to reach bottle. Hose size fits good and tight on the bleed valves. After a few years the vinyl hose will harden with the brake fluid and require replacement. I used an empty vinegar bottle to catch used brake fluid which doesn't fall over easily and is resistant to the fluid for disposal at local recycle center.

    Bleeding Prep: I removed the front fenders but did not remove the wheels to bleed the front brakes - plenty of room. It's easy to level the Spyder on it's wheels.

    Followed the bleeding sequence in the service manual but increased the number of pumps from 25 to 30 to flush. Normally, I like to empty the reservoir and start with fresh fluid there but the sensors prevented this. If I had a suction device with a small hose I could have done this. But I'm cheap and use a turkey baster. I increased the number of pumps to account for the old fluid in the reservoir.

    Motion pro:

    Flushed brake fluid was really dirty as can be seen in picture.

    I reinstalled the reservoir caps the way they came off. The diaphragm was not puffed at the edges like the service manual showed, the edges were flat to the cap with a raised ring about a 1/4 inch from the edge. I wonder if they changed the construction of the diaphragm at some point. I cleaned the diaphragm and caps with denatured alcohol to remove old fluid and possible water contamination.

    Couldn't perform the B.U.D.S. finishing touches since there are no versions available for owners, which probably means there's some old stuff still in the lines. I really have a complaint here with BRP. There's not a standard service on the ST Limited I shouldn't be able to perform myself BRP!

    The brake light has been sticking for a long time now even after shop visits, so I lubed up the brake pedal according to billybovine's post in Great post. The brake light no longer sticks on!

    I have zero error codes following these tasks.

    Again thanks for all the posts and assistance, it's invaluable.
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