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BRP hitch install
Hi all,
Well I bought a new (old stock) BRP hitch which had the 9 pin control module which I didn't use (used Show Chrome harness instead) all is well electrically. I have a 2015 RTL and could not get the hitch to slide onto the swingarms. I noticed there are some what look like thin poly shims/protectors that are glued to the inside contacting surfaces of the hitch. I tried grease and silicone and could not get the hitch to slide over the swingarms no matter how hard I tried. I finally removed the upper and lower shims and bingo, slides right on. However without tightening the thru bolt, I have about a 1/2 to 3/4 inches of slop on the ball end. Will just torqing the bolt be OK? I thought all BRP hitches would work on any year rig. Anyone else have this issue? Thanks.
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Where the trailer would connect to the ball. Hitch slides on OK now without shims, will torquing bolt down be good, or do those poly shims need to be there.
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How long is the ball/threads? or do you mean the ball appears loose when you put on the receiver?
Hitch ball should be 1-7/8 depending on the trailer receiver you have. There are adjustments to if needed.
Last edited by trikermutha; 06-05-2016 at 07:39 PM.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Uticat
Hi all,
Well I bought a new (old stock) BRP hitch which had the 9 pin control module which I didn't use (used Show Chrome harness instead) all is well electrically. I have a 2015 RTL and could not get the hitch to slide onto the swingarms. I noticed there are some what look like thin poly shims/protectors that are glued to the inside contacting surfaces of the hitch. I tried grease and silicone and could not get the hitch to slide over the swingarms no matter how hard I tried. I finally removed the upper and lower shims and bingo, slides right on. However without tightening the thru bolt, I have about a 1/2 to 3/4 inches of slop on the ball end. Will just torqing the bolt be OK? I thought all BRP hitches would work on any year rig. Anyone else have this issue? Thanks.
I think the others missed what you are trying to explain. Now that you were able to easily slip the hitch onto the swing arm, the end of the hitch will move up and down about 3/4". The hitch is pivoting on the swing arm, right? I'm not familiar with the BRP hitch but will the U piece unbolt from the channels that go on the swing arm? If so, take it apart and see if you can't get the channels to go onto the swing arm with all the shims in place. Then bolt the U piece back onto the channels. Also, you might try loosening the bolts that hold the U piece to the channels and see if it'll slide onto the swing arm then. There may be a slight misalignment between the channels and swing arm.
Do what you have to minimize the looseness you're seeing. The hitch is exhibited to a lot of vibration and up/down forces as you ride so you don't want to have any more looseness than you can get away with. Those shims are in there for a reason.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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The ball is firmly attached to the hitch, my only concern is with the slight up and down movement before tightening the thru bolt. Have any of you found the hitch hard to slide on? Mine slides on easily now that the top and bottom shims have been removed.
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there is some resistance when sliding back over the swing arm. Just make sure you tighten the nut and put in a fresh cotter pin. should not be any movement once tight
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I understand those shims are there for a reason, (to cushion the bike/trailer connection or protect the frame finish with hitch removed?) but it seems I shouldn't have to dis-assemble the hitch to connect it properly.
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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
....Are the side plates on correctly ??? ...left plate on left side of swing arm.........just a thought as to why it might be loose ...Mike
I assume it is Mike, it came as 1 assembly with the model number on left side being right side up. I will have to delve deeper into this mystery, just want to be sure as I don't want to loose my nearly new to me RT-622.
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Very Active Member
Originally Posted by Uticat
I shouldn't have to dis-assemble the hitch to connect it properly.
That assumes the hitch was put together properly in the first place. That is not a good assumption.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
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Originally Posted by Uticat
The ball is firmly attached to the hitch, my only concern is with the slight up and down movement before tightening the thru bolt.
How about after you tighten the bolt?
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BRP hitch install
The hitch is a friction fit on the swing arm. It should be tight. Because of this the hitch must be perfectly aligned both vertically and horizontally when trying to mount it. The smallest misalignment (1/16 of an inch in any direction) will cause binding when trying to push it on. If need be get a second person to help holding it in place and be sure to push from the center of the hitch by the ball. Do not push from the side. Use plenty of grease on the wear strips and look out for the brake lines. Once started evenly it will side forward into place.
Skip H
Elyria, OH
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Very Active Member
2018 F3 LIMITED
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Hey guys, thanks for all the input, I'll try loosening the side plates (anyone know the torque of these) I don't want any movement and all parts installed properly. Have no time this week, hopefully next weekend.
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Hitch Update
Well...... After removing sideplates and trying to get them to go on separately, no progress, couldn't even force them on with wood block and hammer. I then called local dealer service and they were no help. I finally called Pitbull Motorsports and talked to Whit in parts, apparently the hitch kit I bought (219-400-144) was for 2010-2012 RT's. There was a slight modification in the newer models (2013-current) to the swing arm dimension that didn't allow the old hitch kit to fit, it has been superseded by the current kit (219-400-432) which I ordered thru Pitbull, should be here soon and this nightmare can be done with. Kudos to Whit @ Pitbull for his help. They sell about 100 hitch kits a year he said.
Last edited by Uticat; 06-11-2016 at 09:23 PM.
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Very Active Member
Well that's new info. For me at least. Thanks for sharing that.
But that does bring up a question. Many people post buying older used hitches and installing it on a newer Spyder. How come this has not come up before?
2018 F3 LIMITED
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