Belt tension

[BajaRon]

Mine was at 180 on the Krikit and then I bumped it up to 220 right before l brought it in for a laser alignment. I thought I was doing the right thing by bringing it into the 1050N spec prior to the laser alignment. I guess I should have just left it. I haven't noticed any vibrations though.

It is better to stay at the middle or lower settings on the older Spyders. (2008-2012). The output shaft bearing didn't like high belt tension and you don't want to have problems there. With BRP upping the belt tension on the 2013+ machines I can only assume that they did something to beef up the output shaft situation so not as much worry on those machines.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Last question is should the tension be set with the smooth spyder set or not????

SmoothSpyder should be off the belt.

[fjray]

It's easier to push down than it is to push up. The belt tension should be identical with the wheel lifted. The easier the process the more likely to get an accurate reading. But if you're getting the same reading several times that means you're fine.

I have the machine 4' in the air on a lift table so it's easy to push up on the bottom run. In the morning I'm going for mid range with the krikit and adjust the smooth spyder with with a passenger on board.

[GeorgiaBill]

My tension was at 180 pounds when I started the install. I was reluctant to change 2 things at the same time, but will probably dial it back a little. I'm a little nervous about doing this, but there's plenty of help on this forum.

-Bill

Sent ya a PM. 630N is around 141 pounds, that seems low to me? Who knows What is everybody else running? Tension on ground or air?

[GeorgiaBill]

However, I was kinda planning on using your expertise for additional guidance, so we can experiment together. I am not yet adept enough to make the adjustment without removing the belt guard, but I'm going to try.

Saturday morning works for me.

Looks like we have a few days without rain in the forecast. I'm planning to go to Highlands, NC tomorrow and then to Cherokee and ride some on on the Blue Ridge Parkway.

-Bill

Bill,
I'm coming over to adjust mine, since you're well versed and have a lot of practice with the tensioner. Maybe next Saturday early morning?

[BajaRon]

My tension was at 180 pounds when I started the install. I was reluctant to change 2 things at the same time, but will probably dial it back a little. I'm a little nervous about doing this, but there's plenty of help on this forum.

-Bill

If you like the results at 180 (Wheel on the Ground) I would leave it there. BRP reduced the tension specs. a great deal on the 2008-2012 models. I suggest running towards the middle of the specs. as a rule of thumb. But even 190 (Wheel on the Ground) is not bad. Certainly not worth the effort to adjust if it's working well for you.

[GeorgiaBill]

Thanks, Ron, my 180# reading before installing the SmoothSpyder was with the rear tire off the ground.

PS - got my filter in the mailbox yesterday - Thank you.

-Bill

If you like the results at 180 (Wheel on the Ground) I would leave it there. BRP reduced the tension specs. a great deal on the 2008-2012 models. I suggest running towards the middle of the specs. as a rule of thumb. But even 190 (Wheel on the Ground) is not bad. Certainly not worth the effort to adjust if it's working well for you.

[GeorgiaBill]

I almost forgot about this, but I accumulated several links to SL threads and put them into Evernote so I could access them any time. Probably lots of repetition here, but they should be helpful to someone.

Thanks to all of you whose words I am pasting below.

-Bill


Belt Tension Adjustment Video - British/Australian





http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ighlight=1200n
Good Thread with copy of TST, plus FINLESS suggests the lower readings to reduce bearing failures caused by too much tension
UPDATE : BRP put out a TST (Technical Service Tips) bulletin in June 2015 to all dealers that revises the specs for all Spyders for belt tension. I am fortunate to have a good dealer that provided me with a copy of this bulletin as I do my own minor repairs and adjustments on my Spyder. Here is what that TST recommended :


2008-2012 Models GS/RS/RT > Recommended Belt Tension > 270 N +/- 100
2013-2015 Models RS/ST/RT > Recommended Belt Tension > 630 N +/- 100
2015 Model F3 > Recommended Belt Tension > 300 N +/- 100


Now since your Krikit II measures only in pounds (lbs) and not Newtons (N) like the Gates Sonic Tension Meter that the dealers use, you need to know the conversion, which is :


Newtons (N) x 0.2248 = Pounds (lbs)
Pounds (lbs) x 4.4482 = Newtons (N)


The first conversion above is what you will use for the Krikit. So for example, on your 2010 RT, the recommended belt tension is 270 N x 0.2248 = 47.208 lbs tension ideal, or 170 N x 0.2248 = 38 lbs minimum tension, or 370 N x 0.2248 = 83 lbs maximum tension. You will probably never get it spot on, but as long as you are in the range between min 38 lbs and max 83 lbs, you will be ok. Also, very important, as per the BRP Shop Manual, these readings are to be taken with the back wheel OFF the ground, at room temperature, and measured on the position of the belt in line with the bolt for the passenger floorboard or as close as possible thereto.


My 2015 Spyder RT Limited had an initial spec for belt tension of 1050 N +/- 100. I always felt some vibration at certain speeds/rpms and was starting to learn to accept and live with them. Now with the revised spec that I changed to, the 630 N +/- 100, there is hardly any vibration at all speeds, as I have tested the machine up to 100 mi/hr (briefly & safely of course). You should know that you will never get rid of all vibrations because it is the nature of the machine, with the long drive belt, but if you go with these revised specs put out by BRP, you can reduce the vibrations substantially and see an improvement like I did. I am sure BRP must have listened to all the complaints about belt vibration to warrant putting out this bulletin to all dealers.
REVISED TST Tension
530N 630N 730N --- 119.144# 141.624# 164.104#


http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...2-belt-tension
April 2008 -


Do the following in order:
1. Loosen axle nut (large nut on right side of swing arm)
2. Turn adjustment screws on rear of swing arms to adjust belt tension
3. Turn adjustment screw on rear of right swing arm to set belt alignment
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until both are properly set
5. Tighten the axle nut to lock the rear wheel in place


A properly tensioned belt will deflect about 7/8 inch with ten pounds of pressure in the middle. When adjusting tension, turn both the adjustment screws the same amount. For example, turn BOTH screws (left and right swingarms) 1/4 turn then check tension, repeat if necessary.


IMPORTANT!!!!
Make small adjustments and check tension often; the consequences of improper tension can be dire (stripped drive belt, destroyed wheel bearings, etc.)!


To set belt alignment you must turn only one adjustment screw. If you adjust only the RIGHT side, you have less chance of affecting the belt tension. If you can, jack your Spyder's rear wheel off the ground, start her up, place the transmission in third and ease the clutch out. This allows the rear wheel to spin while the engine idles.


CAUTION!!!!!
Make sure the front wheels are securely chocked to prevent the Spyder from rolling off the jack! Best case if she rolls off the jack: the engine stalls when the spinning rear wheel hits the ground, worst case: use your imagination!


Make small adjustments of the right-side adjustment screw while watching the gap between the belt and the drive sprocket internal flange. The Operator's Guide calls for 1mm clearance.


If you can't jack the rear wheel you must make a small adjustment on the screw, tighten the axle nut, drive her a bit then check the belt alignment -- bit of a pain in the @ss really...


Once you have the alignment set, recheck the tension. If the tension is off, make small adjustments of BOTH screws.


It's an iterative process -- continue adjusting both tension and alignment until you have them both properly set.


http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ion+adjustment
I had to adjust a couple in SITS this past weekend. Both bikes were tracking right up against the inner edge of the rear sprocket. No gap at all. One of them was so bad I added 1 1/2 turns on the right and had to take 1/2 turn off on the left to even get it to move off of the shoulder of the sprocket. Even then it was barely 1mm off and could have went more.


FYI: Most of you know this, but we had a few at the Smokies that didn't know what to look for on their belts.
1. Make sure when looking that you have been moving forward and not backed up any at all. (backing up will temporarily change the alignment)
2. Looking at the back sprocket you should have 1-5 mm of play off of the inside rear sprocket. (this is between a playing card and a credit card)
3. The tension can be roughly checked by grasping the bottom on the belt at the mid-point and twisting. You should be able to twist it to 45 degrees and not all the way to 90 degrees. (obviously this is not "dealership" specs, but it will do in a pinch) Also, you can grasp your belt in that spot very soon after a dealership adjustment to get a "feel" of how much tension it should have. (provided it has been done correctly.

[M109Dreamer]

Ok, so I'm more confused now more than ever. We have a 2011 RTS. From the last I looked up the tension for our Spyder here it was 100lbs. So has it changed again?

If so, can someone post or PM me the new requirement please. If you have the #'s for off the ground and on the ground that would be great.

And if the tension has been lowered even more, below 100 lbs. How are you using Kirkit II? It starts at 100 lbs?

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[manman007]

How many miles does Spyder need get belt tension done ? When I used cruise control up and down speed , I got vibrate


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[Jhawker]

I am sure everyone on this board but me knows how to change the tension and suspect it is somewhere in the archives. Would someone relieve me of my age induced failure to recall and tell me exactly what I need to do to change the tension.

[Brogers57]

Ugh what am I doing wrong here? My belt always ends up like this. and it seems the belt alignment piece is loose


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[Brogers57]

Could it be that I'm actually loosening both the right and left of the axel? I see the video and write up day specifically the right right nut. Gah.


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[GearHd]

You have definitely loosened that right adjuster a lot. I would tighten both adjusters until they just touch the swing arm again. Then I'd check belt tension. To correct your belt you either need to tighten the belt side adjuster or loosen the brake side adjuster. I have found that when you loosen adjusters you need to tap the axle forward, I use a block of wood against the axle then tap with a hammer.

[Brogers57]

Thanks. I will try this! I could get the tension spot in but as soon as I tightened that axel it was all she wrote!

Just to make sure I understand this. If I need to loosen the tension it's turning the left hand bolt anti clockwise and then I should also have to turn the right belt bolt anti clockwise? Also, should I get my tension correct first before messing with the belt bolt?

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[GearHd]

Correct. Go in small turns, 1/8-1/4 turn at a time. Those adjusters being that loose probably didn't help your tension changing when you tightened the axle. Any time you have to loosen an adjuster I'd tap the axle forward.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Thanks. I will try this! I could get the tension spot in but as soon as I tightened that axel it was all she wrote!

Just to make sure I understand this. If I need to loosen the tension it's turning the left hand bolt anti clockwise and then I should also have to turn the right belt bolt anti clockwise? Also, should I get my tension correct first before messing with the belt bolt?

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I fought the exact same problem as you're having. Go here to see what I finally ended up doing to get the tracking to stay, and why the belt wants to move when you tighten the nuts. http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ht=flange+belt

[BajaRon]

Correct. Go in small turns, 1/8-1/4 turn at a time. Those adjusters being that loose probably didn't help your tension changing when you tightened the axle. Any time you have to loosen an adjuster I'd tap the axle forward.

I use a large dead blow hammer on the tire. Same objective. But whatever you do. You must take all slack out of the adjusters or your adjustment will be destroyed when you tighten the axle nut. Not only is this frustrating but the stress will cause your hair to fall out.



What I like to do is set the axle nut loose enough so when I beat on my tire the axle will move. But snug enough so it doesn't move easily. I will back off the adjusters about 1/4 turn past where I think they need to be. Then I beat on my tire with the dead blow hammer taking the slack out. (I enjoy this part for some reason!) You can tell if you've gotten all the slack out of the adjusters by attempting to turn them counter-clockwise with your fingers. If you can turn them you need to beat on the tire more (or whatever method you're using), or loosen your axle nut just a bit. Then I can set tension by tightening the adjusters instead of loosening them. This process removes as much slop from the components as possible which eliminates as much change to the adjustment as possible when you tighten the axle.

[manman007]

Ugh what am I doing wrong here? My belt always ends up like this. and it seems the belt alignment piece is loose


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look like on the right side need reverse screw for a little bit make both side are even

[Brogers57]

Thank you all for this. It will help me in a few hours hopefully!


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[Brogers57]

Welp 180 on the ground. The trick was tightening the axel and hitting the wheel forward. Thank you all for helping!





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[GearHd]

I thought you checked tension with the wheel in the air?

[Brogers57]

It was about 145-150 ish in the air which I believe the new BRP tst calls for 141 in the air. With a rider on the bike it checks in around 200ish.


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[claychaser]

These are the numbers I've gone by that BajaRon had posted.

THANKS for all the good discussion.
I am changing out my rear tire tomorrow on my 2013 ST. All the discussion has been for earlier models.
So...my in air belt tension should be between 202 and 236 it sounds like.
HAS anything changed with BRP or users since all this good info has been posted?
THANKS!
ANDY

[GearHd]

From what I've seen recently the numbers have been drastically reduced to something like 140-180.