Dash Goes blank and engine won't start?!

[2Paw]

Today after a ride I turned off the key and checked the oil, added a little and then tried to start so I could check again. When I pressed the start button the console went blank and it would not even attempt to start. I then turned the key off and back on but the console remained blank. I tried this a couple of more times with no luck. I then removed the key and took it in the house for almost an hour, tried again, after a longer than normal interval the console came on, I pressed the mode switch, everything normal so far, pressed the start switch and again the console blanked out and it would not start, so far it's still blank and won't start. Any ideas? 2012 RT-S with no electrical additions.

[Chupaca]

Start with the battery connections, then the battery cause that will be the source of your problems. If you can get some jumpers to the spyder and all works normal then it will be the battery. If it still does nothing it will be in the cable connections....

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Your battery's shot. That's the typical response when the battery just doesn't have the oomph left in it to start the bike.

[Bfromla]

Your battery's shot. That's the typical response when the battery just doesn't have the oomph left in it to start the bike.

No simple charging will fix it either You may get lucky with a loose or corroded terminal but a fresh battery will keep you going longer. Good luck

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Start with the battery connections, then the battery cause that will be the source of your problems. If you can get some jumpers to the spyder and all works normal then it will be the battery. If it still does nothing it will be in the cable connections....

.....Plus, it may be the battery itself......Have you kept it on a MAINTAINER when not riding ????....All RT's have a larger PARASITIC draw than the other Spyders.......and the Magneto in yours is marginal at re-placing a charge into the battery...........PS, unless the Battery has " SULFATED " you may be able to bring it back ......but you must keep it on a maintainer.......................Mike

[bronzeflex42]

i keep mine on a maintainer when I'm not riding it. I know the battery will soon wear out regardless, but it does last longer that way. from my experiences.

[billybovine]

The voltage has drops below 10V when you press the start button.

1. Loose, corroded battery connection. Clean and tighten.
2. Dead battery. Recharge the battery.
3. Bad battery? Recharge and have it load tested.

[2Paw]

Is this something that would happen with no previous warning? I had just made a trip of around 30 miles with a short stop for gas after the first 10 miles or so. What brand battery would you use as a replacement? I am looking at the MotoBatt MBTX24U. The old Battery is the original OEM battery, so it may be time to replace it anyway.

[Grandpot]

You are going to get a lot of opinions about batteries; here's mine. You have a 2012, so you are most likely due for a battery. I get mine at BatteriesPlus. They have a two year warranty and I have used them on several of my vehicles and rechargeable devices. They work very well.

[2Paw]

You are going to get a lot of opinions about batteries; here's mine. You have a 2012, so you are most likely due for a battery. I get mine at BatteriesPlus. They have a two year warranty and I have used them on several of my vehicles and rechargeable devices. They work very well.

Yes I know, potentially 20,000. I have also use Batteries Plus before and was pleased with them.

[Big Will 51]

I would also check the charging system. You said you were just out on a ride, so it should have put some energy back into the battery. The battery could be bad, but if the charging is not working you'll just have this happen again real soon.

[remark2013]

Ours did the same thing, then after about 2 months without a problem again, had to trailer it to the dealer. The had to replace the "Gauge Cluster". My only complaint is when that happens, they cannot update to the actual millage of the bike!

[Indyron]

Is this something that would happen with no previous warning? I had just made a trip of around 30 miles with a short stop for gas after the first 10 miles or so. What brand battery would you use as a replacement? I am looking at the MotoBatt MBTX24U. The old Battery is the original OEM battery, so it may be time to replace it anyway.

Yes, no previous warning. I store my 2013 RT Ltd on tender all year. Rode to dealer 35+ miles for a later alignment. Tech did alignment and couldn't start w/o a jump. Battery readings way below normal. New battery solved it. Not a warning, can go anytime.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Ours did the same thing, then after about 2 months without a problem again, had to trailer it to the dealer. The had to replace the "Gauge Cluster". My only complaint is when that happens, they cannot update to the actual millage of the bike!

This is interesting !!!!......... did they tell you why it needed to be re-placed ?????.....Mike

[spyderCodes]

I'm not at all sure that batteries actually last longer using maintainers.
What I am fairly certain of is that on Spyders batteries appear to last longer on maintainers.

All modern vehicles use small amounts of battery power just sitting there doing nothing.
The Spyder is no exception.
What seems to set the Spyder apart is that this drain (called parasitic drain) seems to vary widely in Spyders.

I think I blame, at least in the RT, the radio.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I'm not at all sure that batteries actually last longer using maintainers.

You could be right. The single biggest benefit to using the maintainer is the Spyder is ready to start and go whenever you want! It will also prevent deep discharging which is not good for vehicle lead acid batteries, and can shorten battery life. How much .

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

Is this something that would happen with no previous warning? I had just made a trip of around 30 miles with a short stop for gas after the first 10 miles or so. What brand battery would you use as a replacement? I am looking at the MotoBatt MBTX24U. The old Battery is the original OEM battery, so it may be time to replace it anyway.

Yes and no. The Spyder chokes on a poor performing battery, not just a dead one. When you hit the starter the high current draw will drop the voltage dramatically. If the battery is not up to par that drop will take the voltage below something around 10 to 10.5. The Spyder cluster will not function with voltage less than about 10, even for a moment. The starter is controlled by the cluster and ECM, not the start button. You could quite possible take a battery that won't start a Spyder and put it into a Goldwing and have it start, albeit sluggishly.

In short, the Spyder needs a very healthy battery to start, not just a so-so battery that will start other bikes. The health drops gradually but when it hits the minimum level the Spyder needs the resulting choking is sudden.

There are other good batteries out there, but all things considered for overall performance vs dollars the Yuasa battery is at the top of the heap. Especially if you can buy it at a discount which usually means online. The Yuasa battery in my Honda ATV lasted 8 years even with it not being on a maintainer most of the time and going totally dead more than once!

[remark2013]

This is interesting !!!!......... did they tell you why it needed to be re-placed ?????.....Mike

Just that instrument cluster went bad! Time will tell if that is really true!

[ARtraveler]

As others have mentioned above, it sounds like a battery on its last legs. They do quit without any previous warning and I have always had that in the back of my mind when making long trips away from the dealer.

We have a 2011 and since it has not sold, I am planning on replacing the battery this riding season. It has slept every off season from 2012 to now on a battery tender. Started right up this season--but--it's time for a change, just to be safe.

[2Paw]

I got a new battery, but I've been so busy I haven't had a chance to put it in yet. I will let know what happens.

[exwinger]

Make certain the battery has been fully charged before installing . A reputable dealer should inform you of that and a lot will tell you the battery is already charged . A lot of people think they can drop in a new battery and then charge it by letting the bike idle , this won't work and you'll discharge the battery even further and may not start the next time you try.

[Gray Ghost]

Make certain the battery has been fully charged before installing . A reputable dealer should inform you of that and a lot will tell you the battery is already charged . A lot of people think they can drop in a new battery and then charge it by letting the bike idle , this won't work and you'll discharge the battery even further and may not start the next time you try.

Thousand times ditto on this. Even if a dealer tells you it is already charged, I would still hook it to a charger and let it top off. How it is prepared before the first time it has a load applied plays a big role in how long it will last.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Just that instrument cluster went bad! Time will tell if that is really true!

The reason I'm curious about this is........I had a different issue and the Dealer also wanted to re-place the CLUSTER to fix it..............After getting some BETTER info here I told the Dealer not to....that His FIX wouldn't even work !!!!!.......It turned out my CLUSTER wasn't the problem................I don't trust DEALERS for a reason !!!!.........Mike

[2Paw]

I went to replace my battery today and what do you know the instructions and pics I have are different than actual. I am unable to remove the old battery. The pics show the battery crosswise of the bike but it is parallel with the bike and half covered so no access to the positive terminal, and not enough room to move the battery to lift it out. Back to the drawing board to look for different instructions and pics.

[IdahoMtnSpyder]

I went to replace my battery today and what do you know the instructions and pics I have are different than actual. I am unable to remove the old battery. The pics show the battery crosswise of the bike but it is parallel with the bike and half covered so no access to the positive terminal, and not enough room to move the battery to lift it out. Back to the drawing board to look for different instructions and pics.

In 2013 the battery was moved to the front with access to it from the frunk. Those must be the instructions you received.