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  1. #1
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    Default SE5 Not Downshifting

    My 2012 SE5 rt started stalling today every time we would come to a stop, figured out its not down shifting, I've read to check oil levels and I did and it is almost full, had oil changed at 9k miles at the dealer it has a little over 10k miles right now, The only way to get home from a ride was to manually downshift and avoid stopping (timing out the red lights) it would even stall on 1st gear, I would have to keep the rpm's up and apply the brake to keep from stalling . anyone else have this issue, My closest dealer is about 2hrs away, any advice would be appreciated , thx in advance

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    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    So you can only manually down shift, can you get in reverse? Does it still go to N on start up? No codes? Is there another dealer for a second opinion/inspection? Just a thought

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    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    So, we have an SE5 that won't initiate an Auto downshift, but paddle shifting works normally in both directions. However, even when manually downshifted to 1st, the engine won't idle and keeps trying to die at a stop. I'm actually more interested in that because a lot of throttle manipulation, depending on how you're doing it, can interrupt the Auto downshift initiation.

    So, what is the engine idle behavior in Neutral? Is it hard starting, idle rough, idle fast, keep trying to die? Does it run normally at higher RPM? If so, typical symptoms of a large vacuum leak such as failed purge valve or hoses to the MAP sensor. Vacuum hoses is always the old standby here, anyway. Your machine is 4 years old. Any codes? Check Engine Light? Just need to divide and conquer a little and separate the issues.

    If idle operation is normal, what happens when you shift to 1st. Hard shift, feel like the centrifugal clutch is dragging on the engine at idle? Or after you start moving does it feel like it's not disengaging? Well, that would be a worse problem and probably a trip to the dealer is required. Or, are things relatively normal after startup, and the problems start after riding for awhile?
    Last edited by Snowbelt Spyder; 04-10-2016 at 08:22 AM.


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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bfromla View Post
    So you can only manually down shift, can you get in reverse? Does it still go to N on start up? No codes? Is there another dealer for a second opinion/inspection? Just a thought
    Yes I can get it on reverse, its on 1st gear when I start up, unless I put it on N when I shut down, No codes

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    Active Member JIM W's Avatar
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    Check the map sensor vacuum lines if they haven't been replaced yet there do.
    That's how my 2012 acted maybe not quite as extreme!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Snowbelt Spyder View Post
    So, we have an SE5 that won't initiate an Auto downshift, but paddle shifting works normally in both directions. However, even when manually downshifted to 1st, the engine won't idle and keeps trying to die at a stop. I'm actually more interested in that because a lot of throttle manipulation, depending on how you're doing it, can interrupt the Auto downshift initiation.

    So, what is the engine idle behavior in Neutral? Is it hard starting, idle rough, idle fast, keep trying to die? Does it run normally at higher RPM? If so, typical symptoms of a large vacuum leak such as failed purge valve or hoses to the MAP sensor. Vacuum hoses is always the old standby here, anyway. Your machine is 4 years old. Any codes? Check Engine Light? Just need to divide and conquer a little and separate the issues.

    If idle operation is normal, what happens when you shift to 1st. Hard shift, feel like the centrifugal clutch is dragging on the engine at idle? Or after you start moving does it feel like it's not disengaging? Well, that would be a worse problem and probably a trip to the dealer is required. Or, are things relatively normal after startup, and the problems start after riding for awhile?
    Engine Bahavior is same as always, Idle normal 1300-1400, it does not sound like it wants to die. Took it for a ride this morning and sometimes it downshifts and sometimes it don't, it only died once while it was downshifting by its self, checked the oil again and its full, took some panels off on the left side but cant really see anything abnormal, I only see 1 hose but doesn't look cracked or broken, I wonder if I should pressure wash it with a reg hose nozzle, since we live by the coast and maybe something is just sticking?

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    Quote Originally Posted by JIM W View Post
    Check the map sensor vacuum lines if they haven't been replaced yet there do.
    That's how my 2012 acted maybe not quite as extreme!
    I took the lower panel (LH) off but cant figure out where the Map sensor vac hose is, We just recently move and lost my CD with the diagrams, thx . I'll keep looking ,
    Found a pic here on the Vac line, looks like its on top of the engine, not sure what panels to take off , but I'll keep looking, thx
    Last edited by stevo62; 04-10-2016 at 09:00 AM.

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    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    Not really sure pressure washing would be recommended. The shift linkage is the only thing external and paddle shifting is fine.
    2 hoses, front and back.

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    Active Member JIM W's Avatar
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    Take a look at the check engine light post in this trend it's the same problem

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    Very Active Member spyderCodes's Avatar
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    It is possible that your map sensor hoses need replaced but I doubt if that is your problem.

    On the SE5 shifting is initiated by the ECM (engine Control Module) by opening & closing a couple of solenoids (electrically controlled valves).
    Since the ECM or TCM (Transmission Control Module) aren't throwing codes back I would remove the oil inspection Tupperware to expose the oil tank and look at the wiring and connectors that surround the aluminum structure behind the oil tank.
    You'll see connectors and wires.
    Make sure the connectors are snapped together securely.

    It's possible either the transmission oil filter has either collapsed upon itself, the shift unit has picked up some dirt or the solenoids are not always working.
    Last edited by spyderCodes; 04-10-2016 at 09:21 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by spyderCodes View Post
    It is possible that your map sensor hoses need replaced but I doubt if that is your problem.

    On the SE5 shifting is initiated by the ECM (engine Control Module) by opening & closing a couple of solenoids (electrically controlled valves).
    Since the ECM or TCM (Transmission Control Module) aren't throwing codes back I would remove the oil inspection Tupperware to expose the oil tank and look at the wiring and connectors that surround the aluminum structure behind the oil tank.
    You'll see connectors and wires.
    Make sure the connectors are snapped together securely.

    It's possible either the transmission oil filter has either collapsed upon itself, the shift unit has picked up some dirt or the solenoids are not always working.
    Ok Thanks , I'll check that

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    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    And if we understand your problem correctly, shifting with the paddle worked every time with no issues. Auto downshifting was not working correctly. And there was a tendency to stall at idle. But, both the Auto downshifting and the stalling issue showed improvement on the ride this morning compared to previous. Auto downshifting needs 4 conditions to initiate:

    -Throttle released
    -Vehicle decelerates
    -Preset RPM reached
    -Preset speed reached

    If you don't find anything wrong with your checks, give it some more exercise.
    Last edited by Snowbelt Spyder; 04-10-2016 at 09:48 AM.


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    Default Got it.

    Found the cracked hose, I'll be posting pics soon, on the way to buy a replacement and test run, Thanks everyone

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    Something else easy to check just in case. The shift lever will come loose and bind. Not allowing it to shift sometimes. It is located in front of the left foot peg. Under the lower side bodywork. The lever must be all the way on the spline shaft with a small amount of the shaft sticking through the lever. Grab the lever and try and slide it back and forth on the shaft. If it slides tighten up the pinch bolt.

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    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    Something else easy to check just in case. The shift lever will come loose and bind. Not allowing it to shift sometimes. It is located in front of the left foot peg. Under the lower side bodywork. The lever must be all the way on the spline shaft with a small amount of the shaft sticking through the lever. Grab the lever and try and slide it back and forth on the shaft. If it slides tighten up the pinch bolt.
    Yes , I checked that first, it was good , Thx

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    Default Running Great now

    I changes the Vacuum Line , It was the front side, and went for a ride, and its back to normal, I shot some video and im gonna try and post it on you tube, I had already taken everthing apart so it might look weird uploading in reverse , thanks everyone, hope my pics load up
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    I'm glad to read this post and I've learn a lot, I also own a 2012 RT SE5 . Thanks to all who tune in.
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    Glad to hear that fix your problem
    But there's a second line running to the other carburetor I recommend you change that one as well

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    Very Active Member Highwayman2013's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JIM W View Post
    Glad to hear that fix your problem
    But there's a second line running to the other carburetor I recommend you change that one as well
    Agree, there is another vacuum line behind the sensor that goes to the other injector.
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    Here's a short video if anyone wants to see it, I had already taken it apart when I started shooting video,
    https://youtu.be/CfTPUz-3ytA

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    Very Active Member Bfromla's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevo62 View Post
    Yes I can get it on reverse, its on 1st gear when I start up, unless I put it on N when I shut down, No codes
    The SE5 is suppose to always start engine in N no matter what gear it was in. The dealer should be able to know something from that. Sorry your having trouble, hope it all gets figged out

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    Very Active Member Snowbelt Spyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevo62 View Post
    Here's a short video if anyone wants to see it, I had already taken it apart when I started shooting video,
    https://youtu.be/CfTPUz-3ytA
    Nice work. Now then. How about if EVERYBODY with a 998, who has never replaced these two hoses, replaces them this spring before the season starts. How to get that word out? Imagine what a trouble free riding season you'll have.
    Last edited by Snowbelt Spyder; 04-10-2016 at 04:18 PM.


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    Very Active Member billybovine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bfromla View Post
    The SE5 is suppose to always start engine in N no matter what gear it was in.

    If you mean the engine will start in any gear. Yes, it does not need to be in neutral. After the engine starts an SE will automatically shift to neutral.

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    Default WELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL - MAYBE

    Quote Originally Posted by billybovine View Post
    If you mean the engine will start in any gear. Yes, it does not need to be in neutral. After the engine starts an SE will automatically shift to neutral.
    It is designed to work that way.............but it doesn't always ..........My RT is living proof, and B.U.D.S. couldn't find WHY !!!......Soooooooooo I always put mine into neutral before I shut it off..........Mike

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    Quote Originally Posted by stevo62 View Post
    Here's a short video if anyone wants to see it, I had already taken it apart when I started shooting video,
    https://youtu.be/CfTPUz-3ytA
    I own a 2012 also and will definitely use the vid to replace mine. Thanks Steve.
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