We changed the oil and filter on 2015 RT Limited last fall while preparing for winter storage. Purchased the XPS kit for the SE6 and after draining all the oil and replacing the filter, o rings and seals added 5 quarts of oil. Today in preparation for the start of our riding season per the instructions in the shop manual we let the Spyder run for 35 minutes (live on a dirt road and can't get out to ride yet)and within 2 minutes checked the oil level which was slightly above the "min" on the stick. Is this normal? Does it actually take more than 5 quarts?
If you really let it drain for a long time ( and lower it so it's level ) after fully warmed up and change the filter, I have found it takes another 4 oz. in the 1330 engine to bring it up to 3/4 full..............and that's where I leave it..........Mike
will depend on the way the change is done. Is the warm or cold, level or askew, how long you let it drain etc. Always good to the check it cause all the manuals are reference and the dip stick is the way to go.....
Gene and Ilana De Laney Mt. Helix, California
2012 RS sm5
2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
We are told in order to check the oil level accurately, we have to make sure the engine gets hot, then shut it off, give it a few minutes to drain into the oil pan, then check the level. Why not just check the level when the engine is cold? Checking it cold should give the same result as getting the engine hot, then waiting for the oil to settle back into the pan - which is where it will be when the engine is cold.
We are told in order to check the oil level accurately, we have to make sure the engine gets hot, then shut it off, give it a few minutes to drain into the oil pan, then check the level. Why not just check the level when the engine is cold? Checking it cold should give the same result as getting the engine hot, then waiting for the oil to settle back into the pan - which is where it will be when the engine is cold.
FWIW, in my first DIY oil change I had the front of the Spyder up automobile wheel ramps. If you look at the diagrams of the engine and clutch cover you can see that the drain plugs are located toward the rear of the casings. I let the hot engine drain for an hour or so, did the five quart refill and test restart. When the oil light went out I backed the Spyder off the ramps, restarted and ran it until the fans cycled twice, turned off the engine and waited a minute before checking the dipstick and the oil level was at the Min mark. I subsequently added a total of 10 oz in two top offs, restarted the warm engine, let the fans again cycle twice and which raised the level on the dipstick to the bottom of the Full bulge.
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****************************** Cognac 2014 RT-S
Wow, well what we are planning on doing is to add 4 ounces now and after the next ride out check again and add if necessary to be somewhere between 3/4 and full based on the dipstick.
Thanks to everyone that has taken the time to reply.
Has there been an update to the manual? Our manual clearly states 5 quarts.
I was writing from memory, having just changed the oil the evening before and looking it up in the PDF copy of the 2014 service manual. I remembered the number correctly. I missed seeing it was litres, not quarts. It's a good thing too. I put in 5 qts, warmed up the engine, checked the level, and added about 8 oz more. I'll have to check it now that I've ridden a couple of hundred miles and see where it's at.
Did BRP ever send out a correction sticker for the owner's manual? I haven't looked at mine, relying entirely on the e version I got from canammanuals.com, and it has the original specs in it. Any idea when the manuals were changed?
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
We are told in order to check the oil level accurately, we have to make sure the engine gets hot, then shut it off, give it a few minutes to drain into the oil pan, then check the level. Why not just check the level when the engine is cold? Checking it cold should give the same result as getting the engine hot, then waiting for the oil to settle back into the pan - which is where it will be when the engine is cold.
Checking when cold is fine, been doing that forever.After draining I let it set until cooled off. Then put in five qts. and check where it is on stick, mark it and that's where it will be in the morning when you check it. Works for me,Been checking oil like this for 74 years................
Checking when cold is fine, been doing that forever.After draining I let it set until cooled off. Then put in five qts. and check where it is on stick, mark it and that's where it will be in the morning when you check it. Works for me,Been checking oil like this for 74 years................
From what I've read here I don't think this works well with an OIL reservoir system like ours .......but I could be mis-taken on this ................Billy B !!!!!!!!!........................Otherwise just check it AFTER every ride ......Mike
Oil Level
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Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder
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