Two Limp Homes on 3-10-2016

[GeorgiaBill]

I began a ride of about 600 miles yesterday. That was the plan. I got 2 limp homes at around the 160 mile mark. I'm trying to get some understanding of causes, and try the ride again ASAP. I've read lots of the limp home accounts and wonder if anyone can recognize what I may have done to cause this.

At around 155+ miles I rode 2 or 3 miles on a dusty non-paved road leading to the Tugalo Dam operated by Georgia Power. Lots of switchbacks and loose gravel as we descended to the river level. On my return to pavement the rear tire slid out a couple of times on switchbacks, and I was not riding aggressively. I do not know if stability control was engaged.

When I returned to asphalt, the cruise control would not engage. I would turn it off, then back on and try to engage. After several attempts it finally engaged and the limp mode was displayed pretty soon. I pulled off, let it sit for a while, walked around a bit, restarted again and was on my way.

I engaged the cruise control again and the limp mode was displayed as well as the VSS warning. I stopped again, and decided to limp home. I went slowly for about 25 miles and finally rode normally and this included the cruise control.

I checked the error codes today and none are displayed. After reading some, I think I should check these codes as soon as I stop after the limp mode displays.

Any suggestions will be appreciated. I'll probably venture forth again, real soon, unless the wisdom of the forum doesn't approve. I did run a short errand of 13 miles today - no problems detected.

-Bill

[billybovine]

If I was to take a wild guess without knowing the codes. I will say brake light switch. If the brake lights stay on the cruise does not work. If the brake lights do not come on. It will cause VSS error and Limp Home Mode.

If it happens again pull over and check the codes before turning off the key. Also check the brake lights.

[GeorgiaBill]

Why didn't I think of that? I'll do that next time, and I'm assuming there will be a next time.

-Bill

[Cruzr Joe]

Quite possibly while you were on that dirt/gravel road you may have been using the brake and accelerator at the same time and NANNY gets confused when you do that.

Just a thought.

Cruzr Joe

[ARtraveler]

Gravel and dirt roads can sometimes lead to crud on your brake light switch actuator. This will cause the bike to think you are riding the brake constantly. The symptoms you mentioned will show up.

Cruise control will not engage if the brakes are applied--or the thinks they are.

Let's hope it is something simple like this.

[Snowbelt Spyder]

Quite possibly while you were on that dirt/gravel road you may have been using the brake and accelerator at the same time and NANNY gets confused when you do that.

Just a thought.

Cruzr Joe

I had the same thought. The "riding the brake" limp mode.

[Bob Denman]

Gravel and dirt roads can sometimes lead to crud on your brake light switch actuator. This will cause the bike to think you are riding the brake constantly. The symptoms you mentioned will show up.

Cruise control will not engage if the brakes are applied--or the thinks they are.

Let's hope it is something simple like this.

with this assessment... Getting "crud" on those sensors, can mess up how the system is reading the individual wheel speeds, and if it thinks that you're on the brakes; the cruise control won't come on.
Good Luck; let us know what you find!

[billybovine]

I had the same thought. The "riding the brake" limp mode.

Riding the brakes causes a brake failure message and the brake fault light to come on. That is not what the OP described. He describe a VSS light.

[GeorgiaBill]

Thanks all. It might be a while until another failure or it could happen today. I read several posts about the limp mode, and one poster said he was limited to 58 miles per hour. I could sure live with that instead of calling AAA or my son to come get me. I measured our utility trailer yesterday to ensure it would work.

I'll post back here if/when there is a definite resolution.

Thanks again.
-Bill

[GeorgiaBill]

Decided to ride a few miles and pay attention to how close my foot is to the brake pedal - very close, but that is not the problem, unfortunately.

Got about 4.7 miles when the limp code presented. Pulled into next street and the horn blared very loudly???

Pulled the error codes, came home and installed SpyderCodes.

U0073 reports as CanBUS failure.

C006C reports as ECM failure triggered by U0122 or U226B.

I guess the next step is to contact the dealer???

Hope this is a warranty issue.

-Bill

[SpyderAnn01]

Decided to ride a few miles and pay attention to how close my foot is to the brake pedal - very close, but that is not the problem, unfortunately.

Got about 4.7 miles when the limp code presented. Pulled into next street and the horn blared very loudly???

Pulled the error codes, came home and installed SpyderCodes.

U0073 reports as CanBUS failure.

C006C reports as ECM failure triggered by U0122 or U226B.

I guess the next step is to contact the dealer???

Hope this is a warranty issue.

-Bill

Sounds like you've got some weird gremlins lurking inside. Limp Mode will limit your RPM so if you shift early you can maintain highway speed, as long as you aren't headed up a big hill. It used to basically slam on the brakes and drop your speed to 45 mph but a computer update fixed that issue a few years ago.

[GeorgiaBill]

Although the limp home presented this morning, it was all clear for the 6 miles to the dealer.

They said a couple of business days before they diagnose the problem.

I knew an electrical/mechanical failure might occur before the purchase but decided to go for it. Hope this is the last one.

I'll add to this post as I hear something.

-Bill

[GeorgiaBill]

Here's the resolution comments on the repair order:

BATTERY TERMINALS WERE DIRTY,,,WE REMOVED
CABLES AND CLEANED BATTERY AND CABLES AND
UNIT HAD A UPDATE FOR ECM,,WE CLEARED CODES
AND REWRITE ECM
CODES WERE FOR SHIFTING ISSUES,,,IF PROBLEM
CONTINUES CUST NEEDS TO CHANGE OILS WITH CAN
AM OIL ONLY AND CAN AM FILTERS

I'll post this and go pick up my Spyder. I'm not real optimistic that the problem has been resolved.

-Bill

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

.Considering what you were just told !!!! ....imho....your biggest problem is finding a dealer with better Techs and /or a better understanding of the word HONESTY ......good luck...Mike

[GeorgiaBill]

I e-mailed the service tech:

Hi Billy;

I'm having trouble understanding the resolution.

My codes were U0073 and C006C. Would you be able to tell me if these involve ECM, Can Bus, and or VSS?

Or are the codes related to shifting issues which I have not noticed or reported.


And got this from the service manager:

Hi, William. We did have a technician perform a diagnostic on your Spyder. Attached is the B.U.D.D.S. file from your machine. We found 24 error codes pertaining to the VCM. Also there were 18 occurrences of a low battery/low voltage. This could explain the error codes in the VCM. As for your question about the two codes. The first code is for the Cam Bus, which would be typical of a low voltage and/or from the dirty battery cables. The C006C is a VCM code which could also be caused by the low voltage, or could have been caused by the needed update, which we applied when we plugged the unit into the diagnostic system. If you have any questions, please, feel free to call or email me.

The BUDS report listed Occurred codes of C006C, P2806, U0073, U0100 (DPS), U0400, and U0100(WPM).

Active codes of C1281, C1300, and U1150 were listed.

Max RPM of 8200 was listed - not by me!

I upgraded my AAA coverage from PLUS to PREMIERE so I get one 200 mile 'tow' just in case, and I'll watch my battery pretty carefully.

For now it's a nice day so I'll just ride and see what happens.

-Bill

[billybovine]

Sounds logical and the dealer could be right in that the root cause was low voltage. Time and miles will prove it out.

The crap about the oil seems out of place and wonder where that came from. My guess someone in the garage expressing their opinion about oil. What a surprise that someone has strong opinions about oil.

[AY4B]

Seems like every time I have had to get to the battery to add something, the cables were not very tight. Ill suggest putting some blue lock tite on the screws. I have also seen other threads posted that lead to just loose battery cables. OR does locktite isolate and cause poor connection?

[GeorgiaBill]

I've put 890 miles on my Spyder since getting it back from the dealer, and there has been no return of the LIMP HOME. I guess the problem was corroded or loose battery terminals.

Thanks to all who provided advice.
-Bill

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I've put 890 miles on my Spyder since getting it back from the dealer, and there has been no return of the LIMP HOME. I guess the problem was corroded or loose battery terminals.

Thanks to all who provided advice.
-Bill

Now go back to your Battery with some STAR WASHERS .....re-move bolts ......put on washers ....put on bolts ....tighten.......Now they will never loosen - - unless you do it with a tool .........Mike