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how to remove rear wheel
I have seen video on removing rear wheel by removing bolt that holds the shock, but can you remove it by turning out the adjusters a certain amount of turns then take of the belt like on a 2 wheel motorcycle?
richie spyder
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but our benefits don't?
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The method of removing the shock bolt works real good. I used that method when I put on the Kuhmo and the belt went right back to where it was.
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ok thanks but where do you do all the jacking up the bike from the frame or the swingarm?
Last edited by ssmcclub; 03-08-2016 at 07:09 AM.
richie spyder
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Frame, as far back as you can get.
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do not readjust the tentioners when you remove the axel the belt will be loose enough to remove the wheel
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If you Measure the exact distance from each side of the axle to the end cap and loosen each adjuster the same amount of turns (Not too much) And turn the adjusters the same amount when done and remeasure the exact distances you can Do Away with laying on the ground taking of and putting back in the shock bolt which can be a pain if your Old like me. The manual has you do it this way.
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I would read the manual as there is no need to remove the shock bolt.
Measure the adjusters or mark the ends.
Make sure the belt gap is correct to the edge of the pulley.
Make sure belt tension is correct..
There are plenty of threads already on this topic.
Good Luck
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THE MEASURING METHOD
Originally Posted by Sarge707
If you Measure the exact distance from each side of the axle to the end cap and loosen each adjuster the same amount of turns (Not too much) And turn the adjusters the same amount when done and remeasure the exact distances you can Do Away with laying on the ground taking of and putting back in the shock bolt which can be a pain if your Old like me. The manual has you do it this way.
As far as the measuring method goes, be advised............as little as 1/4 turn on either adjustment bolt can move your belt +/- 1/8th inch ( from the flange )........1/4 turn is less than 1/96th inch of axel movement, maybe you can see that on a ruler ....I can't..............good luck............Mike
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Jusr used the video'd technique on mine. Put on a new Kumho Solus. Everything worked well, but lossening the fasteners was the toughest part for me. Whatever thread locker they used was a bear! But the techique worked well, and the belt was aligned perfectly when reassembled. Recommend it highly.
I put my front end up on car ramps and then used regular car jack under the rearmost portion of the frame. Plenty of room to get at everything. And it is necessary to raise and lower a couple of times to get the load off the shock bolt and the axle.
Good luck.
John
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Originally Posted by trikermutha
I would read the manual as there is no need to remove the shock bolt.
Measure the adjusters or mark the ends.
Make sure the belt gap is correct to the edge of the pulley.
Make sure belt tension is correct..
There are plenty of threads already on this topic.
Good Luck
The 'shock bolt' approach is an alternative to the 'official' approach discovered by some of the early Spyder Owners (Lamont did the original video). Having done both I found the 'shock bolt' method is both faster and easier - mainly because you don't have to muck about with the belt alignment/tension.
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Originally Posted by BLUEKNIGHT911
As far as the measuring method goes, be advised............as little as 1/4 turn on either adjustment bolt can move your belt +/- 1/8th inch ( from the flange )........1/4 turn is less than 1/96th inch of axel movement, maybe you can see that on a ruler ....I can't..............good luck............Mike
Originally Posted by PistonBlown
The 'shock bolt' approach is an alternative to the 'official' approach discovered by some of the early Spyder Owners (Lamont did the original video). Having done both I found the 'shock bolt' method is both faster and easier - mainly because you don't have to muck about with the belt alignment/tension.
Removing the rear shock bolt is easy, and you wont mess with the belt alignment or the wheel alignment. IMHO
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Finless also recommends removing the sensor at the front of the swing bar, forget what it's called. Check out his video.
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PERSERVERANCE
Last edited by BLUEKNIGHT911; 03-10-2016 at 11:50 PM.
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Never thought of that but then the little tire shop here in Mt.Pleasant just mounted it no questions asked.
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I did mine yesterday. Took it off but did not see any sensor wire in the front. Could be just an RT thing. took it to 2 car tire places and they would not do it. I called Richardson motorsports and they said they would do it for 37 dollars. I went there because I knew a Spyder dealer would not booger up my rim.
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Originally Posted by AY4B
I did mine yesterday. Took it off but did not see any sensor wire in the front. Could be just an RT thing. took it to 2 car tire places and they would not do it. I called Richardson motorsports and they said they would do it for 37 dollars. I went there because I knew a Spyder dealer would not booger up my rim.
I got one of these wrenches off Ebay. I highly recommend it and it is small enough to add to your tool kit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191407295271...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
2017 F3 Limited
2017 F3 Limited , Lamonster Black Dymond brake pedal with brake rod at #5 Pure Magnesium Metallic
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only the rt has the sensor up front
richie spyder
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