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  1. #1
    MelloYelloSpyder
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    Default Spring StartUp Problem

    Good day all. Well I went over this past weekend and pulled the 13 Spyder STS-SM5 from storage. The battery had to be removed as the storage facility had no power in the units. I kept the battery on a Battery Maintainer for the past 3.5 months. When I started the bike up it was idling a little rough which I expected. I had an engine light show up at the bottom of the screen and flashed a couple of times. I shut the bike down, pulled the key and walked away. Came back and started it up and the light did not come back on. I let it idle for a couple of minutes and then rode about 5 miles to the doctors office. When I came out of the doctors office I fired the bike up and the whole screen went orange with an engine in the middle (the orange screen of death) just long enough for me to see it. I shut the bike down again and walked away with the key again. Came back and started it up and rode home about 6 miles. Shut the bike down while I was opening up the garage and getting ready to put up till winter is officially over. Fired the bike back up and no code or light and the idle was nice and smooth. I am wondering, as I have read somewhere, that if the battery is removed for more than an hour that you have to go through a start up procedure of starting the bike and allowing it to idle (no revving) for 15 minutes and then shut the bike off for at least 15 minutes for the computer to relearn its parameters. Is this the case or should I take it to the dealer. I did the button push to pull codes and there were no stored codes.

    I was not able to store it in the garage before winter so I had no choice but to put it in storage and pull the battery. The battery is less than a year old and was obtained from the dealer.

  2. #2
    Very Active Member Cruzr Joe's Avatar
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    I would take it out for a good ride (hour or better) and see how it operates before worrying about it. It probably just wants to be ridden.


    Cruzr Joe
    2018 F3 Limited, BRP Driver Backrest, Spyderpops Lighted Bump Skid, Dual Spyclops Light, Mirror Turn Signals, Laser Alignment, Engine LEDs, Fog Lights With Halo's, Cushion Handgrips, BRT LEDs, and Under Lighting, Lamonster IPS, (with Clock), F4 25" Vented Windshield with Wings, Airhawk "R" Cushions. Position 4 Brake setting, Short reach Handlebars, Dash Mounted Voltmeter and 12 Volt Plug. Set of 3rd pegs. Extended Passenger Seat. Exterior BRP Connect setup, Ultimate Trailer

  3. #3
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    You need to get it fully warmed-up, and check your oil and coolant levels...
    Take it out for at least a 10 mile or so ride, and then start checking.
    Good Luck; please let us know what you find!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  4. #4
    MelloYelloSpyder
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    Will do but I am going to have to wait. Michigan can not decide whether it wants to be winter time or spring just yet. It was 50-60 degrees over the weekend and tomorrow we are supposed to get 6-8 inches of snow. And of course I have to head to Columbus Ohio for work the rest of this week. I have the bike on the charger now as the garage has power. Once it clears up again and the weather is above 30-40 I will get it out for a long ride and see what's going on.

  5. #5
    Very Active Member BLUEKNIGHT911's Avatar
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    Default ISSUES

    ....Maybe a silly question, but did you put any GAS stabilizer in before you put it away ???.....if not it won't do any good to do it now, but run the tank as low as you can and FRESH GAS may help this issue.......Mike

  6. #6
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    Good Point!
    In fact... If you didn't add any fuel stabilizer; I'd suggest siphoning the tank empty, and re-filling it with some fresh fuel.
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  7. #7
    Very Active Member ARtraveler's Avatar
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    x 2 and 3 on new gas.

    Currently Owned: 2019 F3 Limited, 2020 F3 Limited: SOLD BOTH LIMITEDS in October of 2023.

    Previously : 2008 GS-SM5 (silver), 2009 RS-SE5 (red), 2010 RT-S Premier Editon #474 (black) 2011 RT A&C SE5 (magnesium) 2014 RTS-SE6 (yellow)

    MY FINAL TALLY: 7 Spyders, 15 years, 205,500 miles

    IT HAS BEEN A LONG, WONDERFUL, AND FUN RIDE.
    2020 F3L , Magma Red

  8. #8
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Your right....

    When the battery is out for extended periods the computers have to reset with the new info from the sensors. Have not seen a seaquence but as mentioned above a good ride should get you set back up. Checking for codes after you have shut down and let the computers reset will not show the stored codes. This can only be done with the BUDS system at the dealer. Good dealer could hook you up and give you a printout if you wanted...
    Gene and Ilana De Laney
    Mt. Helix, California

    ​2012 RS sm5
    2012 RS sm5 , 998cc V-Twin 106hp DIY brake and park brake Classic Black

  9. #9
    MelloYelloSpyder
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    Well I am in Ohio for work until Friday. Yesterday however I started the bike up and again I got the check engine light. I allowed the bike to run for 20 minutes at idle and then shut it down. I pulled code P2530 from it this time. I waited 5 minutes and started the bike again. No code this time. While I am down here in the low 50 degree temp my fiance is at home in Michigan getting snowed in. I am going to check the voltage of the battery when I get back. Maybe it was low or something when I hooked everything back up. If it keeps coming back I will be taking it in to get serviced as I have it on extended warranty for a couple of more years.

  10. #10
    MelloYelloSpyder
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    Quote Originally Posted by MelloYelloSpyder View Post
    Well I am in Ohio for work until Friday. Yesterday however I started the bike up and again I got the check engine light. I allowed the bike to run for 20 minutes at idle and then shut it down. I pulled code P2530 from it this time. I waited 5 minutes and started the bike again. No code this time. While I am down here in the low 50 degree temp my fiance is at home in Michigan getting snowed in. I am going to check the voltage of the battery when I get back. Maybe it was low or something when I hooked everything back up. If it keeps coming back I will be taking it in to get serviced as I have it on extended warranty for a couple of more years.
    And gas stabilizer was added as I have done with all my motorcycles for the past 30 years.. Never forget that stuff

  11. #11
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    FAULT CODE: P2530

    MODULE: ECM (Engine Control Module)

    DESCRIPTION: Ignition switch state not plausible

    POSSIBLE CAUSE: Ignition key switch connection or internal switch fault.

    SERVICE ACTION: Check ignition key contacts and wire connections.

    Could mice have chewed some wiring?
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  12. #12
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    We're wondering if you found the solution to this yet...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  13. #13
    MelloYelloSpyder
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
    We're wondering if you found the solution to this yet...
    Not yet...We got about a foot of snow and the bike is snowed in the garage. Then is got up to 50 degrees and melted over the weekend and then tomorrow we are supposed to get a few more inches of snow. This damn back and forth on the weather is getting on my nerves. Either snow or don't...Pick a season already.

  14. #14
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    Thanks for the update... I was getting worried, when there was no news...
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

  15. #15
    Active Member Richardv's Avatar
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    Default Battery connection...

    Quote Originally Posted by MelloYelloSpyder View Post
    Not yet...We got about a foot of snow and the bike is snowed in the garage. Then is got up to 50 degrees and melted over the weekend and then tomorrow we are supposed to get a few more inches of snow. This damn back and forth on the weather is getting on my nerves. Either snow or don't...Pick a season already.

    Are you sure that your battery connectors are really tighten solidly?

  16. #16
    MelloYelloSpyder
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    Quote Originally Posted by Richardv View Post
    Are you sure that your battery connectors are really tighten solidly?
    Everything will be double checked once the weather has cleared. The few inches they predicted turned out to be a good foot of snow. I think the weather is supposed to warm up next week so maybe I can get it out for a good ride to get those parameters relearned. Been hectic with moving the bike out of storage and over to the fiancés house. Add to that the wedding is 4 weeks from today. I have to get the oil changed on the beast before I ride too much. And I still need to figure out how to get the airbox out of it so I can install the JT airfilter kit in it. I think the soon to be Mrs. is actually more ready to start riding than I am this year.

  17. #17
    MelloYelloSpyder
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    Default Final Update on this

    Took the bike to the dealer and they hooked it up to BUDS. Ended up replacing the right side start/stop kill cruise switch. Also since it was in I had the sticking brake light switch replaced at the same time. Bike was in the shop for a few weeks which was no big deal as I was in the process of final wedding planning and leaving on the honeymoon. I have the bike back home now and just need to do an oil change this weekend and then me and the new wife are going to go for a spin somewhere.. Thankfully I had an extended warranty that covered the repairs and only had to pay the 50 dollar deductible.

  18. #18
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    on the running bike, AND the new Bride!!
    2010 RT A&C, RT-L, RT-L , Orbital Blue, Cognac, Jet Black

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