Another Quick Oil Question - Initial change

[SpyderSteveFL]

Ok, so I know, another oil question. I HAVE read a ton on here but still want to ask this. So, when I bought the bike the service guy did say the initial service was 3k but he would highly recommend changing the original oil by 1k to get the initial crap out and not have it floating around till 3k. I just hit 1k and was debating if I was going to change it or let the dealer do it (but I was convinced it should be changed). I'm servicing at a different branch of the same franchise where I bought it 65 miles away (they have completely different managers, etc). I emailed the service manager here to ask about appointments, etc. and so I also asked "I heard some say to change the oil on the 1330 by 1k and not wait until the 3k, what do you think" and he said "You can go to the 3K mike mark. The new engines run very clean and the oil is not getting that dirty even at 3K miles. The older engines did run a little "dirtier" and that's why they required sooner intervals."

So now I'm confused. Do y'all think I should just change it out now or just wait until 3k or slightly before? If the oil remains clean and the magnet on the plug is holding onto the break-in shavings, etc. maybe it's safe to go to 3k?

Also, while I was gearing up to to it myself he said they change oil for $125. Heck the kit is $80 so I would probably let them do it for that. $200+ and I would. An extra $125 is not going to kill me if ya think it best to do initial now at 1k???

And not really asking or wanting to go there but in a video Shawn Smoak (seems like an excellent CanAm mechanic) said no way use anything beside the BRP XPS stuff. I'm sure Amsoil is probably fine, but going to stick with Shawn's advice. He seems to very extremely knowledgeable watching several of his vids. Was a great video anyway.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPeb1YqV4Gw

[Chupaca]

Wait till you get to the 3,000 miles and have the dealer do it. Always good they do the break in service and check the whole machine out. They may have softwear updates to add etc. After that you can handle it on your own. In my opinion I would not go the 9,000 + they state for changes after break in. But your choice..

[BajaRon]

Why do you think stuff is 'Floating Around' in there? Oil filters are very good at taking out everything but the very small stuff. And the oil is very good at suspending that. Don't over think this. Relax, ride and enjoy. Get the oil changed at the recommended 3k mark and be happy! Getting it changed sooner will just cost you money and won't satisfy the warranty requirement.

[JayBros]

There is a magnetic plug on the clutch cover, a.k.a. transmission plug that will pick up metal shavings, no magnetic plug on the crankcase plug. IMO, if an oil change was required at 1,000 miles to get out little shavings BRP would have added it as a service interval. You may have seen hereon number of Spyder owners were told their 1330 engines neeeded a first oil change at 600 mi, the recommended first change for V-twin engines. That's just ignorant BS. The BRP semi-synthetic oil is undoubtedly more than adequate for the life of the Spyder with oil and filter changes at BRP's recommended intervals; however, you can find owners, myself included, who report smoother shifting of the SE6 transmission with fully synthetic oil. Do your researching and form your own plan of action.

[SteveLaoyster]

You should go by what the owners manual says. And after the 3k change I think is has every 9k miles or every 12 months, whichever comes first. The every 12 months is the normal change interval on any engine if the hours or miles are not reached.

[Gunkandpudge]

Just had my first service on my 2015 RT-S. 2930 miles. Oil was very clean and nothing collected around the magnet. I'm very pleased with my Spyder, my second one by the way.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

....IMHO...BRP knows exactly how long the 1330 engine will last with a minimum amount of maintenance and that's what the BEAN counters advise for Warranty purposes.......So, if you don't plan to keep it past say 50,000 miles you probably don't even have to change the oil or filters....let the next person worry about it........Of course, that is not my recommendation. Changing the oil is not difficult. You can buy Valvoline Full Synthetic 10w/40 at Walmart for around $ 6.25 per qt.......you need 5 qts.-....just change the OIL not the filter......Your engine will LOOOOOOOOOOOOve you for it......I think the first TECH gave you some very good advice ( very unusual ).........There are people here who will drop $ 3000 on farkles without blinking, but changing oil early will cause them to hyper-ventilate........JMHO.....Mike

[BajaRon]

....IMHO...BRP knows exactly how long the 1330 engine will last with a minimum amount of maintenance and that's what the BEAN counters advise for Warranty purposes.......So, if you don't plan to keep it past say 50,000 miles you probably don't even have to change the oil or filters....let the next person worry about it........Of course, that is not my recommendation. Changing the oil is not difficult. You can buy Valvoline Full Synthetic 10w/40 at Walmart for around $ 6.25 per qt.......you need 5 qts.-....just change the OIL not the filter......Your engine will LOOOOOOOOOOOOve you for it......I think the first TECH gave you some very good advice ( very unusual ).........There are people here who will drop $ 3000 on farkles without blinking, but changing oil early will cause them to hyper-ventilate........JMHO.....Mike

I don't think anyone is saying NOT to change oil at 1K. Or every 1,000 miles there-after if you like! Just that it is extremely likely to be a waste of time and money. But hey! If it makes you feel good, the oil companies will love you for it and after all, it is your Spyder!

[Bob Denman]

[Brentc]

I had the dealer do the 3000 and then will be doing myself annually, as I probably will not hit the 9300 interval. Just did the spyders second oil change, my first, today. Was pretty easy just a matter of tracking down the torque specs and having everything handy. Was a nice day to be in the garage anyway.

congrats on the ride!

[DrewNJ]

Well, that's what the "sales brochure" says. If your comfortable doing 9,300 miles on motor oil that also shares duty as transmission fluid then go for it. Personally, I wouldn't be comfortable with that in any machine and would never buy used from an owner that ran that long between changes.
I guess it does make good marketing material for "low cost maintenance" though......if your into believing the manufacturer has YOUR best interest in mind.
Good luck!

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[Bob Denman]

It's okay that the manufacturer is only interested in what's good for them: they don't want to have to pay for expensive engines under their warranty program.
They won't cut corners; only to slit their own throats...

[DrewNJ]

The warranty period is such a small part of it. The back end or the 5+year area is what I would be concerned with. Mike makes a really good point.
Heck, if your good with a 5 year old machine that mechanically is beat and likely out of warranty, then cool. Trade it in and spend another $25k
Personally, I'd rather spend a bit more and take care of what I have, keep it or at least feel confident I'm passing along a solid machine when/if I do sell it.
A dealer oil change is what $200 ($100 diy). That's such a small amount. Spend $25k to cheap out on maintenance????

Extended maintenance intervals are a win win for manufacturers.
-looks good on the brochure
-does not create issues in the short term/warranty periods for most machines.
-concerns for longevity push people to buy new or spend money to fix outside of warranty...the back end.

Have any of you actually seen the oil out of a Spyder after almost 10k miles???!!!.....holy crap!

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[DrewNJ]

Hey Bob, do you run the BMW's recommended 8k mile oil change interval for your wife's mini? Do you remember about 3-4 years ago they spec'd 16k for the same platform. They cut it back to 8k when they realized they were killing motors. However, it took them a few years to finally fess up. I'm sure some of those motors survived, right?
Would you feel comfortable buying a "dealer serviced" mini from the time period of the 16k oci???.....haha.

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[Bob Denman]

Actually; it's s "once a year" thing... just like they say in the manual.
The same for my Spyder.
I'll normally accumulate about 5,000 miles each year...

[KX5062]

If you're going to do your own servicing, don't forget to buy a set of Dimple drain plugs. FAR superior to the OEM and makes future oil changes much easier.

[Nyparrothead]

Unfortunately I don't hit the recommended milage every year so I do an oil change yearly regardless of mileage.

Mark

[Tango]

Unfortunately I don't hit the recommended milage every year so I do an oil change yearly regardless of mileage.

Mark

Same here. Once a year. Tom

[Buggy]

If you're going to do your own servicing, don't forget to buy a set of Dimple drain plugs. FAR superior to the OEM and makes future oil changes much easier.

Where do you get these plugs...are they a BRP part?

[ARtraveler]

When in doubt, change it out, if that is the way you feel about your .

I used the 3,000 mile indicator for my "break-in" service on the 1330 and then 9,000 miles later for my second and third oil changes. I am now coming up on the "big" 28,000 mile service later this season.

No issues with my yet. I am also of the opinion that BRP knows what they are doing as they don't want to replace engines under warranty.

My mileage is usually more than the "once a year" section for oil changes.
Is this a wait, or an engine BBQ sign?

[Buggy]

Where do you get these plugs...are they a BRP part?

Disregard I found the info.....http://magneticdrainplugs.co/canamspyder.php