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  1. #1
    Very Active Member OverHillAndDale's Avatar
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    Default Dashboard/computer issue

    A couple of times recently, the splash screen that requires me to hit the handlebar button to clear has stayed on after I started the byke, and I have to clear sometimes after I've got the byke in gear and rolling. Never thought it was much of an issue. Yesterday the byke let me start it before the screen lit up, and the screen stayed grey with no graphics at all. Although the engine ran, I couldn't put the byke in gear and none of the controls worked.

    The magic walked eventually cleared the issue, but I'm not willing to trust it as I've been stranded before. I guess this means a ^&%#$& trip to the #&^* dealer. Worse, since it's an intermittent issue I'm likely to have it returned with no change.

    Anyone else seen this? Thoughts?
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  2. #2
    Very Active Member Chupaca's Avatar
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    Default Curious. ....

    From the list of mods you have made one might think back if this started after any electical work was done. Have seen screen issues mostly from direct sunlight, led lighting, hid lighting etc. Was the dash removed and may have a loose connection. Then there are those glitches that come and after a reset never return. The dealer can hook you up to buds and look for stored code that could explain this
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  3. #3
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    Default

    I hate to say it... but Gene might just be right.
    Are you SURE that that this one wasn't self-inflicted? Did it start doing this right after one of the modifications?
    He's also correct about sunlight and high heat: the displays will sometimes "blank out", if they get too warm.
    (It's an odd thing to point out in February, but your location is pretty vague...)
    Good Luck; please let us know what you find!
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  4. #4
    Very Active Member jaherbst's Avatar
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    Default


    He said he is from the United States Bob.
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  5. #5
    Very Active Member OverHillAndDale's Avatar
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    Default

    I'm an electrical engineer, and the mods I made are generally no deeper than tapping into a 12V circuit (that's truly not arrogance - I've fried many a wire on other projects and know I have limitations!). That being said, there is potential that I've increased the load on a sensitive circuit and shot myself in the foot. I have tried to electrically isolate most of my mods, and the timing of this issue doesn't correlate closely with any mod I've made, even the mechanical ones.

    I've not read of others who had issues related to adding LED lighting. If it turns out I've caused this, I'll issue a red-faced explanation down the road .
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  6. #6
    Very Active Member OverHillAndDale's Avatar
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    Just noticed some items that I didn't address.

    The location was in my garage, about 65 degrees so there shouldn't have been a hot or cold component. This did not start shortly after a mod. I am DIYer, so I fully acknowledge that puts me at risk.
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  7. #7
    Very Active Member JayBros's Avatar
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    Your Spyder should still be under warranty so, as much as it is a PITA, it's worth it to have the dealer check for any stored code(s). JMO.
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  8. #8
    Very Active Member OverHillAndDale's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayBros View Post
    Your Spyder should still be under warranty so, as much as it is a PITA, it's worth it to have the dealer check for any stored code(s). JMO.
    You're correct, and fortunately I'm in need of my 10k service soon. I'll certainly get it done before I take off on any long trips.
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  9. #9
    Very Active Member IdahoMtnSpyder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OverHillAndDale View Post
    That being said, there is potential that I've increased the load on a sensitive circuit and shot myself in the foot. I have tried to electrically isolate most of my mods, and the timing of this issue doesn't correlate closely with any mod I've made, even the mechanical ones.

    I've not read of others who had issues related to adding LED lighting. If it turns out I've caused this, I'll issue a red-faced explanation down the road .
    I'm going to guess you have a battery that is about to crap out even though it's not that old. Check the cable connections. The screen symptoms you describe will occur when the battery just doesn't have enough oomph to keep the voltage up while cranking the starter. If the voltage drops below something like 10.5 or 11 the computer pukes.

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  10. #10
    Very Active Member OverHillAndDale's Avatar
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    That's an excellent thought in that the starter has sounded a bit anemic after the byke sits a few days.


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    2020- RT Limited
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  11. #11
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    Default A battery tender is your friend

    Quote Originally Posted by IdahoMtnSpyder View Post
    I'm going to guess you have a battery that is about to crap out even though it's not that old. Check the cable connections. The screen symptoms you describe will occur when the battery just doesn't have enough oomph to keep the voltage up while cranking the starter. If the voltage drops below something like 10.5 or 11 the computer pukes.
    Any time I know I am not going to use my Spyder for more than a few days, I always plug in a battery tender to maintain optimum conditioning of the battery.
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