F3 two up shock

[kkcdcdc]

Out on the Spyder today. New rear shock is a deffinite improvement...
No passenger on Spyder yet but I think it is worth the money..
Well worth the cost, new shock may be one of my cheapest upgrades so far...

[vondalyn]

mine doesn't look quite so dramatically different like that first picture. The shock looks the same, the spring is definitely better. EDIT: I guess it's the same as the first picture, but for some reason seeing it in person made it look different to me.

[juscuz]

Thought i would post this so more people could see..
New two up F3 shock
$213.49 plus $60 installation
see any difference..

Saw this at 2WheelPros.com for 194.97 part number219400739.

[llyrad]

Just ordered mine today as well, thanks for all the info.

How difficult was it to install?

[ca8920]

Ordered ours last week. Plan to have it installed when I take the trike in for the recall repair.

[vondalyn]

Just ordered mine today as well, thanks for all the info.

How difficult was it to install?

Not difficult. I think the instructions say 30 minutes, but because we were being careful when taking body panels off & back on, it took nearly 2 hours.

[Jay A]

Dealer ordered shock for me .and gave me a $100.00 gift card to help pay for it

[BLUEZL600EFI]

I went this route and could not be more happy (although it's quite a bit more expensive) The Mrs and I bottomed out on our first ride I already had this on order when I got the bike. We had them on our 09 as well. This time I got it with the overload adjuster.

[MMMII]

Just ordered mine today for $159 + $49 for the install.

[BamaJohn]

With the frame reinforcement completed, I ordered the beefier rear shock yesterday. Will install it myself...should be a two-beer job.
JB

Installed mine yesterday, and it was easy, but (as always) a bit of learning curve the first time..I could do the second one in half the time) The test ride was surprising, in that the ride is much less-harsh; the rear end doesn't sag as before when I mount up; and the ride on the local bumpy roads was MUCH smoother!

Some might suggest that it's just the old thing about the bike running better after an oil change, but I honestly feel the difference in my butt and back...no bottoming out and much smoother...the best $180 I've spent on "Buster".

I'll try to post a link with photos and instructions, but here's a starter:

1. Chock both front wheels so the spyder doesn't move when the rear is jacked up.
2. Place a small hydraulic jack of your choice under the rear of the box frame (just forward of the primary muffler), and lift until the rear tire is barely off the ground...then lower it until the rear tire barely touches the ground (this will be about the right position to take the load off the shock and yet keep the shock bolts from being under tension when removing them).
3. Remove the rear seat only.
4. (if you have BRP side cases, remove both of them)
5. Get a 15mm box wrench and socket with extension(s) for the shock bolts.
6. Pay attention to the orientation of the bolt head...they are different from top to bottom...the bolt head at the top of the shock is on the left side, and on the bottom it's on the right side.
7. Remove the plastic splash pan under the seats. There are 2 torx screws on top under the rear seat, and 15 underneath (12 of which are in the 4 panels you'll see readily. I'll send photos of the two on top under the seat, as there are a bunch, and you only remove two...the CORRECT 2
8. Remove the original shock and put it aside.
9. Install the new shock..you may need to make slight adjustments to the jack height in order to slip in the lower bolt so as to NOT bugger up the threads on the bolt. When you get it lined up correctly, the bolt will slip into place without forcing it.
10. Reinstall the plastic splash pan.
11. Reinstall the rear seat.
12. GO FOR A TEST RIDE AND ENJOY THE FRUITS OF YOUR LABOR!

Cheers JB

[vondalyn]

There is a noticeable difference with this shock over the original. It also made the handling of the F3 feel slightly different (better) in tight fast corners.

[MMMII]

With these great reviews I'm starting to get excited.

[Sccar]

Just ordered mine today for $159 + $49 for the install.

Where are you all ordering from? I could not find the shocks on BRP website.

thanks

[MMMII]

Where are you all ordering from? I could not find the shocks on BRP website.

thanks

http://www.powersportswarehouse.com

[IndyBill]

Picked mine up at the dealer Friday. Part # given earlier in this thread is good. I had to order it but had in in three days. Still waiting on the "signature light". I got the wiring harness but no light.

Bill

[Bluehole]

Installed mine yesterday, and it was easy, but (as always) a bit of learning curve the first time..I could do the second one in half the time) The test ride was surprising, in that the ride is much less-harsh; the rear end doesn't sag as before when I mount up; and the ride on the local bumpy roads was MUCH smoother!

Some might suggest that it's just the old thing about the bike running better after an oil change, but I honestly feel the difference in my butt and back...no bottoming out and much smoother...the best $180 I've spent on "Buster".

I'll try to post a link with photos and instructions, but here's a starter:

1. Chock both front wheels so the spyder doesn't move when the rear is jacked up.
2. Place a small hydraulic jack of your choice under the rear of the box frame (just forward of the primary muffler), and lift until the rear tire is barely off the ground...then lower it until the rear tire barely touches the ground (this will be about the right position to take the load off the shock and yet keep the shock bolts from being under tension when removing them).
3. Remove the rear seat only.
4. (if you have BRP side cases, remove both of them)
5. Get a 15mm box wrench and socket with extension(s) for the shock bolts.
6. Pay attention to the orientation of the bolt head...they are different from top to bottom...the bolt head at the top of the shock is on the left side, and on the bottom it's on the right side.
7. Remove the plastic splash pan under the seats. There are 2 torx screws on top under the rear seat, and 15 underneath (12 of which are in the 4 panels you'll see readily. I'll send photos of the two on top under the seat, as there are a bunch, and you only remove two...the CORRECT 2
8. Remove the original shock and put it aside.
9. Install the new shock..you may need to make slight adjustments to the jack height in order to slip in the lower bolt so as to NOT bugger up the threads on the bolt. When you get it lined up correctly, the bolt will slip into place without forcing it.
10. Reinstall the plastic splash pan.
11. Reinstall the rear seat.
12. GO FOR A TEST RIDE AND ENJOY THE FRUITS OF YOUR LABOR!

Cheers JB

I was under the impression that the shock could be replaced by going thru the slots that the stiffener covered up to get at the top bolts??? Sure would appreciate any photos and further directions on removing this splash pan. I am contemplating ordering and will indeed install it myself.

Thanks,

[BamaJohn]

I was under the impression that the shock could be replaced by going thru the slots that the stiffener covered up to get at the top bolts??? Sure would appreciate any photos and further directions on removing this splash pan. I am contemplating ordering and will indeed install it myself.

Thanks,

The instructions that come with the new shock suggest taking off the tupperware on the right side of the F3. It also suggests removing the splash pan under the seats in the tire well. I did NOT remove any tupperware, only the splash pan, and was able to get to all the bolts rather easily.
As promised, photos are below...please click on the link below to see photos. Sure hope this helps!
JB

https://picasaweb.google.com/1071144...eat=directlink

[Bluehole]

The instructions that come with the new shock suggest taking off the tupperware on the right side of the F3. It also suggests removing the splash pan under the seats in the tire well. I did NOT remove any tupperware, only the splash pan, and was able to get to all the bolts rather easily.
As promised, photos are below...please click on the link below to see photos. Sure hope this helps!
JB

https://picasaweb.google.com/1071144...eat=directlink

I will study these photos with much interest!

Thanks again,

[bmccaffrey]

I'm confused.

BRP puts a sub standard shock anf customer has to purchase a new one.

Bottoms out with 2 up

[ca8920]

Got my new shock installed this week while I had my F3 in for the recall. Got a bit of riding in today and it is awesome. The ride is much better and it no longer has the drifting sensation left and right that it had before. Love it.

[IndyBill]

Put my shock on last night. Going to ride today and let you know how it works. Mine had no instruction's with it so As usual I had to rely on this sight. Made it easy.

Also wife wanted the passenger boards and that was more of a hassle that the shock. A design that made an easy job a pain.

[cmarsala]

Just ordered mine today as well, thanks for all the info.

How difficult was it to install?

Got mine yesterday and installed it today, took about 45 minutes. If you have the right tools the only thing you need to remove is the seat. The top mount bolt can be removed using a 15MM socket on a universal joint thru the slot under the seat, a wrench for the nut thru the bottom access, was able to torque the bolts as well.
The ride is much better and smoother and handling is much better in the curves. The best $167.00 I spent so far.
Sorry I should of taken pictures of wrench placement, but I didn't think of it until I was done.

[MMMII]

Got mine installed today and put about 15 miles on it so far. I have a couple hour ride slated for tomorrow so I'll wait till after that to give my thoughts.

HOWEVER.... I thought I would do a little pre-post install experiment. So I broke out the tape measure and with a little help from a friend....

• Original shock with 3,940 miles on it measured 32 1/2" from ground to the rear tip of the passenger grab handle.
• Original shock with with me on the passenger seat (let's just say I'm about 235ish) from ground to the same point on the grab handles measured 29 3/4".
• Two up shock with no passenger measured 32 3/8" from the same points.
• Two up shock with me on the back measured 29 7/8".

I'm a casino marketing guy and by no means a mechanic but I assume this means the benefit of this "upgrade" comes towards full compression of the spring.

Thoughts?

[ABQSpyder]

To me you've experienced no benefit. Your saging almost three inches with no one sitting on driver seat. Go measure how far you sag with just you on it.

[ta-kid]

From my sport bike days that's a LOT of intial Sag.Anyways ,just a thought,the F3-T rear air adjustable preload shock should fit and may be an viable option to stiffen up the pre load and intial sag for better handling and maybe no bottoming out.Can Anybody with a new F3-T chime in.