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RT 2010 spyder SE5 fuel gauge bouncing
Hi all", I am peter and new to Canam Spyders. I have just purchased a CanAm RT 2010 Spyder SE5 and had it about a month now. I have noticed the Fuel Gauge bouncing up and down and contacted the place where I bought it from. I have extended warranty with the bike. I told the service guys that my fuel gauge is bouncing up and down and he said they all do that, and he asked me what fuel I am putting in it. I told him 95 or 98 octane. The gauge bounces I noticed when I ride over roads that have little bumps on them, but it even started bouncing when I ride it on the freeway. I believe it may be a fuel sender because it does not bounce when just sitting still. I have to ride the bike 280 kms just for them to look at it, but I would like it fixed or replaced. From my reading", I have read that certain model Spyders do that. I don't want to replace the gauges with any other gauges except the ones that belong to the bike.
Regards Peter
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Very Active Member
The analog gauge does that. If you unhook the temperature and fuel gauges on the dash the gauges will appear on the LCD screen in the middle. Take out the four screws in the dash, pull it out and unplug the wires. You must do both gauges for this to work. The electronic gauges are much more accurate.
Welcome.
2016 F3 Limited
2019 Ryker Rally
2014 Suzuki V Strom 650
2020 CSC TT 250
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I had a 2010 RTS and when my first gauge bounced I had it replaced under warranty, then the 2nd one bounced and I said fix it again. After all we paid more for those lousy analog gauges, the base model didn't have them. Then I learned about disconnecting the analog and using the digital gauges, I was amazed how much farther I went on a tank of gas before the fuel light came on. I took my Spyder in for service and when I picked it up they had reconnected the analog gauges. The gauge on my 2013 RT wasn't much better and I disconnected it too but finally the gauges on the 2014 RT don't bounce and are really accurate.
Len has you covered on how to do it just know that the fuel graph will be on the right and the temp graph will be on the left.
2017 F3T-SM6 Squared Away Mirror Wedgies & Alignment
2014 RTS-SM6 123,600 miles Sold 11/2017
2014 RTL-SE6 8,600 miles
2011 RTS-SM5 5,000 miles
2013 RTS-SM5 burned up with 13,200 miles in 13 weeks
2010 RTS-SM5 59,148 miles
2010 RT- 622
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Very Active Member
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Thanks mate for the writeup
Thanks Mate I do that then
regards Peter
Originally Posted by Highwayman2013
The analog gauge does that. If you unhook the temperature and fuel gauges on the dash the gauges will appear on the LCD screen in the middle. Take out the four screws in the dash, pull it out and unplug the wires. You must do both gauges for this to work. The electronic gauges are much more accurate.
Welcome.
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Thanks
Hi mate", thanks for that post
regards Peter
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Thanks Mike LOL
Hi mate", thanks for that post Mike
regards Peter
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I have a 2010 rt se5 and have disconnected the analog gauges and have found that the display gauges are alot more accurate.
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Very Active Member
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Active Member
The makeup of our fuel down here in NZ and Australia is different to yours, and the minimum octane requirement for us is 92.
Our options are 91, 95, 98. We used to get away with running the pre 2012 on 91 octane, but anything later than that will not run properly on 91.
We now have His and Hers Spyders.
Current Spyder, 2015 F3 Steel Black, Passenger Backrest, Blue Ridge Screen with Xcreen Extention, Akrapovic Muffler, Attitude Handlebars, Blades front rims, RT Swaybar,
Her Spyder 2011 Magnesium RSS Sportrack and Backrest, Comfort Seat, Grip Puppies, 3.5 inch Riser Bars, Wespyd Signature Swaybar. Hindle Muffler, Godiva Screen, Hiway Pegs Can Am Panniers
Previous Spyders
2013 ST SM5
2011 RSS
2010 RS
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