Spyder 2013 STL won't start - Please help

[Zenagirl]

Okay, I have been super bad. Been so busy, spending weekends helping to take care of my terminally ill sister 90 miles away (I know, NO EXCUSE), but haven't started my Spyder for a couple of months, altho my heart has said, start it. Tried to last weekend and wouldn't start. Have full panel lights, fender and back lights, no headlights. Put bike on battery tender. After full charging to a solid green light, turned on key, stepped on brake, did the kill switch thing, hit the mode button, hit the starter. wants to start but wouldn't, also still no headlights although full panel lights and fender lights, and back lights. Okay, tried battery tender again, and today, after full charge, and solid green light redid all the steps. Same thing. Bought a new battery today, same kind of battery. I found a post from another rider who posted earlier this month about a dead battery, and followed the directions given him to replace the battery. However, I notice that the new bolts that came with the new battery are loose, you can push them in and pull them easily out, tried the bolts from the "dead battery" and same thing. I also noticed as I was removing the bolts from the old battery that the old bolts were not tight on the old battery either. Anyways, put everything together, and I got the very same results. removed everything, put it all back, same thing. Did it one more time and this time the only difference is when I went to start it, everything went black and I got a "click". So, I did not try it again. I have removed everything and the battery is sitting on my counter.

Now what????? Any ideas? And why would I have full panel lights, radio, and fender lights but no headlight? I did not see any corrosion or evidence of anything else that could be wrong. Could this be a fuse??? I have no idea. Will be going to look for tighter screws at one of the car places tomorrow and taking the battery with me to make sure they fit.

Any suggestions? My son is coming out tomorrow to help me figure it out. He's also coming down from about 90 miles away and it would be nice if he didn't have to make a useless trip out to help me.

I PROMISE never to ignore my precious Spyder again!!!!! This is a 2013 STL, and I bought it brand new in February 2013. I love my baby and need wind therapy VERY badly!!! I would be EVERY so grateful if this is an easy fix. Thank you from the bottom of my heart! Seriously!!!
(I'll be checking back in the morning.)

[SpyderAnn01]

Headlights don't come on until the bike is running. Loose connections are often the culprit when a Spyder won't start. I'm sure others will help you in detail. Good luck.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

...The bolts ( loose ) thing has me concerned. If they won't get tight then they are stripped !!!.....They shouldn't be.....I would dis-assemble the old battery bolts & nuts first ( battery out of spyder ) and find out what is going on with them.......If you don't have a good connection this will cause lots a various types of issues.......Also the green light on the TENDER means NOTHING.......( really )........If you have loose connections you probably didn't get a good charge............Also if the Battery was very depleted the TENDER might take 3 -4 DAYS to bring it back..........After you check the connections .....jump start the Spyder with a car battery ...DO NOT HAVE THE CAR ---RUNNING --- this could fry the spyder battery or a computer............good luck.....keep us informed........................PS your OEM battery may be fine ( I think it is )......................PPS...after you get the bolts thing figured out put some STAR washers on before you tighten them, I have always done this and never had a loose battery terminal....NOT EVER ......Mike

[Bfromla]

Headlights don't come on until the bike is running. Loose connections are often the culprit when a Spyder won't start. I'm sure others will help you in detail. Good luck.

Sounds loose lil advice dont just get tight but maximize the area of contact.
Battery tenders do not do charge but a maintain a level. Even if you have 12V you may not have the Amps. The new battery needs a good charge by itself. The headlight wont come on till engine is running only. Double check all fuses & how well they are in. Cycle thru dash with mode button just to be sure its working right too. Contact your dealer see if they have other tips.


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[Zenagirl]

Headlights don't come on until the bike is running. Loose connections are often the culprit when a Spyder won't start. I'm sure others will help you in detail. Good luck.

Hmmm, I was sure the headlights came on each time I used the key, even to just open the frunk because they'd blind me.... maybe not! Thanks for your response. Will check connections and fuses as suggested by others. So frustrating when you don't know what to do.

[Zenagirl]

...The bolts ( loose ) thing has me concerned. If they won't get tight then they are stripped !!!.....They shouldn't be.....I would dis-assemble the old battery bolts & nuts first ( battery out of spyder ) and find out what is going on with them.......If you don't have a good connection this will cause lots a various types of issues.......Also the green light on the TENDER means NOTHING.......( really )........If you have loose connections you probably didn't get a good charge............Also if the Battery was very depleted the TENDER might take 3 -4 DAYS to bring it back..........After you check the connections .....jump start the Spyder with a car battery ...DO NOT HAVE THE CAR ---RUNNING --- this could fry the spyder battery or a computer............good luck.....keep us informed........................PS your OEM battery may be fine ( I think it is )......................PPS...after you get the bolts thing figured out put some STAR washers on before you tighten them, I have always done this and never had a loose battery terminal....NOT EVER ......Mike

I already gave the old battery to the shops guy when I bought the new battery. (Had the battery tender on the old battery several days each time before trying to start again, so figured battery just wouldn't hold a charge.) When I get new bolts, I will pick up STAR washers as well. I will be taking the battery so the folks can make sure they fit. Will try jump starting with car too. Stupid question though, how do you jump start the bike if you don't start the car after hooking it up? (My son will probably know the answer to that one.) Thank you so much for your help!

[Zenagirl]

Sounds loose lil advice dont just get tight but maximize the area of contact.
Battery tenders do not do charge but a maintain a level. Even if you have 12V you may not have the Amps. The new battery needs a good charge by itself. The headlight wont come on till engine is running only. Double check all fuses & how well they are in. Cycle thru dash with mode button just to be sure its working right too. Contact your dealer see if they have other tips.


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I did not cycle through the dash mode button to check that it is working right, and will check all fuses. If the headlight doesn't actually come on until started then I don't need to be concerned about the headlight issue just yet. Thanks so much for your suggestions and help!

[Zenagirl]

I already gave the old battery to the shops guy when I bought the new battery. (Had the battery tender on the old battery several days each time before trying to start again, so figured battery just wouldn't hold a charge.) When I get new bolts, I will pick up STAR washers as well. I will be taking the battery so the folks can make sure they fit. Will try jump starting with car too. Stupid question though, how do you jump start the bike if you don't start the car after hooking it up? (My son will probably know the answer to that one.) Thank you so much for your help!

Okay, I have the answer to this, I read in the manual how to jump start with another vehicle.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

I already gave the old battery to the shops guy when I bought the new battery. (Had the battery tender on the old battery several days each time before trying to start again, so figured battery just wouldn't hold a charge.) When I get new bolts, I will pick up STAR washers as well. I will be taking the battery so the folks can make sure they fit. Will try jump starting with car too. Stupid question though, how do you jump start the bike if you don't start the car after hooking it up? (My son will probably know the answer to that one.) Thank you so much for your help!

............I'm confused your new Battery didn't come with any BOLTS ?????, what kind of battery is this.....I have never heard of this!!!! ...........DO NOT HAVE THE CAR RUNNING.......Remember the car battery is already way more powerful than the Spyder battery........most battery bolts are 10mm.................Mike

[billybovine]

In your first post you say it wants to start but didn't. I take that to mean the engine was spinning but would not fire up. If so that means the battery was likely good and did not need to be changed out. More likely flooded and needed to do a wide open throttle start procedure to clear the engine. You do not mention that when you took in your old battery if it was load tested or not. So at this point not sure if the battery was bad or not. Most places will test for free.

The battery bolts when loose are able to push in and out like you describe. That is normal for power sports batteries and will tighten up when you tighten up the bolts when installed.

Put booster cables on it. Hold the throttle wide open. Then press the starter button for a maximum of 30 seconds. If it does not start, wait 1 minute to let the starter cool. Then try again. After three tries. Try doing a normal start.

[Bfromla]

Going round & round here plz let us know its fixed & allgood. Thx


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[Zenagirl]

In your first post you say it wants to start but didn't. I take that to mean the engine was spinning but would not fire up. If so that means the battery was likely good and did not need to be changed out. More likely flooded and needed to do a wide open throttle start procedure to clear the engine. You do not mention that when you took in your old battery if it was load tested or not. So at this point not sure if the battery was bad or not. Most places will test for free.

The battery bolts when loose are able to push in and out like you describe. That is normal for power sports batteries and will tighten up when you tighten up the bolts when installed.

Put booster cables on it. Hold the throttle wide open. Then press the starter button for a maximum of 30 seconds. If it does not start, wait 1 minute to let the starter cool. Then try again. After three tries. Try doing a normal start.

OKAY!!! Am currently doing the extremely HAPPY DANCE!!!!!! The bike is running!!!!!!! I am thrilled thrilled thrilled!! Thank you EVERYONE for helping me!! I am not certain what the problem was..... And apparently my old battery was not entirely the culprit, as you mention above, so I may have given up a good battery as they did not test it when I took it in and bought the new battery. Everything is nice and tight, had to get a new rectangle nut at NAPA, as I dropped one when I was putting it in last night and of course it didn't just fall out onto the garage floor, who knows where it ended up.... got one not the same size but works fine.

I didn't realize that the rectangle nuts were to be inserted between the battery terminal posts. Dumb, I KNOW, but I didn't have to deal with those on the battery to my sportster when I had changed its battery. Maybe they were always there but attached and not loose and these were and I just didn't know it. It appears that was the situation with my old battery, the nuts must have been attached inside the posts and I did not realize it yesterday. (Also, it was dark and I was holding a flashlight in my mouth while working, so I didn't notice them on the old battery. )(The battery also didn't come with directions as to what I was suppose to do with those darned things either. Hey, I'm an older gal and this is fairly new to me!!! )

Anyways..... long story short, I got everything put together nice and snug, checked all the fuses, and cranked her up. Sounded better, more hopeful, and sounded like she really wanted to start. Tried several times, letting her rest between times. Wondered if this was a spark plug thing, so sat and read the manual trying to learn about spartk plugs .... Then I remembered reading one of these posts about giving her some gas, I was afraid to do that, but after several good hearty revs, I've gotten her started!!!!! I kept thinking "I hope I'm not hurting her!!!!" I sure don't want to abuse her or cause her damage!!!

So, she's running. Will take her for a little spin. Then turn her off and see if she'll start. If she doesn't then maybe I have a starter problem or a loose wire that I'll have to have the professional folks check out. But in the meantime, I am a super happy camper, and THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR ADVICE BECAUSE EVERY ONE OF YOU HELPED ME GET THIS DONE!!! I super super appreciate it!!!

I love this site, and researched it for many months before jumping in and buying my 2013 STL (sight unseen, by the way, although I had been able to ride the GS in the 2-wheel safety class.).... OKAY, now back to my baby and thank you all so much again!!!!

[billybovine]

Good news

[Zenagirl]

Hi All!!! Happy to report that I've turned the bike off several times, and she's started right up, no problems. Took her out for a little spin and she ran just fine. Everything seems back to normal. It felt SO GOOD to get out there even for a short ride!!!!! Realized too late that I'd run off without my purse, without my new insurance card, or driver's license OR my new tabs!!!!! Just grabbed riding gloves and helmet and off I went!! Did not wear riding gear so it was COLD!!!! But felt super great to get out on her. Been too long since I've ridden. Looking forward to the upcoming weekends. Hope we get some sunny days and a little warmer than the low 40s, but will head out as soon as I can!!! Thank you again everyone!!