Oil Drain Bolt Won't Come Off Crankcase

[speedbuggy]

Hey folks.
Question: I have a 2008 998 SM5 Spyder GS. The bottom oil drain bolt won't come off. Probably tightened to much.
The inner edges where you put in the hex wrench to take it off are all rounded off.
I have tried vise grips, a hammer with a flat tip screw driver to knock it loose. Nothing I can think of works.
A friend of mine suggested using "Speed Out" stripped screw extractor. The product says it can be used on
wood, and metal on all types of screws.
The side oil tank bolt is OK and I replaced it with the magnetic bolt as advertised on this site and want to put
the same magnetic drain bolt on the bottom of the crankcase.

Any suggestions from you wise men/women would be greatly appreciated. Other than taking it to a dealer
what, if anything I can do.???

Would it hurt if I just left it there when I did my oil changes, and drained the oil from the tank and filter area only.
If I left it in when I changed the oil, how much oil would be left in the crankcase when the oil is changed????

[JKMSPYDER]

​Try tapping the edge of the bolt with a flat blade screwdriver and hammer or even an air tool if you have one.

[Lamonster]

This is not uncommon and what works for me is to take a sharp chisel to the edge and tap it loose. Best if you warm the bike up first.

[speedbuggy]

​Try tapping the edge of the bolt with a flat blade screwdriver and hammer or even an air tool if you have one.

I have already tried that.Nothing

[Bob Denman]

On any bolt that was going to be destroyed; I've also had good luck by grabbing them with a honking-Big set of Vise-Grips, and locking them down tight!! You can hit them with a hammer, or just muscle it out!
(Just have your replacements at the ready! )

[speedbuggy]

This is not uncommon and what works for me is to take a sharp chisel to the edge and tap it loose. Best if you warm the bike up first.

It's good to hear that I am not the first this has happed to. It really makes a person feel like an idiot. I will try a chisel.

[Gordy]

best to use a small chisel, screw driver handle takes up too much of the shock

[Chupaca]

A chisel with no handle so all blows are metal on metal. The shock helps brake up the varnish resulting from the hot oil baking on the threads. I always tap a few solid blows to the drain plugs to loosen that seal...

[JayBros]

Good luck, you'll get it out. When you do, switch to a Dimple Plug or Gold Plug.

[SpyderAnn01]

We nearly had the same thing yesterday and we were really glad that our customer brought Dimple Plugs with him for replacement.

[DrewNJ]

Unless you really know what your doing take it easy with the hammer. Never been to fond of hammering on an aluminum case.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

A chisel with no handle so all blows are metal on metal. The shock helps brake up the varnish resulting from the hot oil baking on the threads. I always tap a few solid blows to the drain plugs to loosen that seal...

.........I usually have either the Torx or Allen socket ( 1330 ) in when I start, and just give one medium tap with a hammer and test it.....If it hasn't broken loose , I'll tap a little harder.....because I agree with Drew, Aluminum cases will crack. It doesn't take that much to break the varnish hold .........................jmho........Mike ............PS, you can always tap harder, you can't tap lighter ( after the damage )

[Bob Denman]

It's a lot like, "Digging a hole shallower..."

[speedbuggy]

Good luck, you'll get it out. When you do, switch to a Dimple Plug or Gold Plug.

I bought dimple plugs this past fall and putting them on this week.

[Sarge707]

Now That My 2009 was traded in with 35,000 miles I can admit mine got stuck the first oil change and I never got it loose. I changed All the other oil and that 1/2 quart left in the motor never caused me any grief. But I would also extract 2 quarts from the tank at 2,500 miles and refill - Then change at 4,500 miles!

[Bob Denman]

Now That My 2009 was traded in with 35,000 miles I can admit mine got stuck the first oil change and I never got it loose. I changed All the other oil and that 1/2 quart left in the motor never caused me any grief. But I would also extract 2 quarts from the tank at 2,500 miles and refill - Then change at 4,500 miles!

[DrewNJ]

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

[kep-up]

small pipe wrench? the harder you pull, the tighter the jaws get. guaranteed to work.

[Crisis]

Same thing happened to me on both plugs. Vise grips worked. There is enough thread to grab on to. The secret is to jack the Spyder up so you can see what you are doing, don't work blind what ever method you choose. Good luck!

[DrewNJ]

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/i...c=1#fragment-1

[4 MARIE]

Because the crankcase (alloy) and drain plug (steel) expand at different rates.
You can heat the area directly around the plug with a small torch, before grabbing
and removing pesky plug.

just warming engine won't do it, because that allows plug and crankcase to heat "together".

[cptjam]

Because the crankcase (alloy) and drain plug (steel) expand at different rates.
You can heat the area directly around the plug with a small torch, before grabbing
and removing pesky plug.

just warming engine won't do it, because that allows plug and crankcase to heat "together".

Concur; a small propane torch can heat up the surrounding area, and let you get it out. You can file or hacksaw a slot for a flat tip screwdriver, or vise grips. Used in combination, that plug is going! Joe

[trikermutha]

They have tools that are made to remove rounded off bolts,screws etc and work really well. They fit over the rounded off head and grip to it when you turn.

Sometimes a little heat will help too.

[trikermutha]

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/i...c=1#fragment-1

[GeorgiaBill]

What about an impact driver? Any reason not to try one?