What would be the cost of an excellent suspension for an ST ?

[Flamewinger]

I moved the upper ring to almost the top. Not sure how they look when I'm sitting on it but when off is what I checked. (Can't do both at the same time) I used a small level to check vertical. The white mark is what I did to help know how many times I turned the ring.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1453480908.845707.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1453480922.111640.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1453480973.583172.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1453480985.035786.jpg


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Susie - 2013 Spyder ST-Ltd
Flame Red '04 GL1800
'97 GL1500
'95 GL1500
'89 GL1500
'83 GL1100

[Flamewinger]

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1453481060.264379.jpg

Is what my bike looked like before I did the adjustments.




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Susie - 2013 Spyder ST-Ltd
Flame Red '04 GL1800
'97 GL1500
'95 GL1500
'89 GL1500
'83 GL1100

[AY4B]

I had the Fox shocks for about 10k miles and they were bottoming out when I went up/down driveways. I was able to adjust them so the wheels were back to vertical. After about 3000 miles I got Elka's.

You have to break the two locking rings loose them move the upper one up and tighten them again.


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Susie - 2013 Spyder ST-Ltd
Flame Red '04 GL1800
'97 GL1500
'95 GL1500
'89 GL1500
'83 GL1100

Also how much difference did it make when you went to the Elka shocks
and which ones do you recommend for solo ryding? I weigh around 300 pounds+

[Flamewinger]

When I got the spyder with the OEM shocks, it felt very squishy and didn't feel confident going around corners. When I got the Fox shocks installed it felt stiffer and more confident in corners but maybe too stiff. They did loosen up and got comfortable.

The Elka shocks are kindof in between, but they feel more supportive but doesn't make for a rough ride. I feel more confident with them and they don't seem to be loosening any time soon.

http://www.elkasuspension.com/products/spyder/

I called and talked to them about what shocks I should get. I ride by myself and don't plan to do any racing. They recommended stage 1 for both front/rear. They build to order and ship from Canada. Takes a little longer to get them because of that.


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Susie - 2013 Spyder ST-Ltd
Flame Red '04 GL1800
'97 GL1500
'95 GL1500
'89 GL1500
'83 GL1100

[Saluda]

My wife complained that she felt she was going to fall off the back without any backrest. I tried to compensate by trying to be more careful not to accelerate, turn or brake too aggressively. I imagine If she had no riding experience, I would have beefed up the spyder but she chose to get her own bike.

To us back rest is a definite need.

[AY4B]

To us back rest is a definite need.

I know but she really missed her previous bike and did not want to ride in the back.
That's just her.

[AY4B]

I just tightened the spring 2 turns a side. Tightening the springs has nothing to do with the tire being straight up or plumb. That is the toe in adjustment. My wheels are plumb before and after the spring adjustment.

[Flamewinger]

Alignment (toe in) does NOT affect the camber of the front wheels. The saggy suspension does and even though the Fox shocks can be adjusted, I figured they won't last long. Since they got saggy only after 10k miles.

Hoping the Elka's will last longer. If not I'll try Progressive's. Had no problems with then on the Goldwing.


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[lousd1]

I have a 2013 ST-S.
Added a BajaRon Sway Bar and Links.
Also add BajaRon Front Spring Load Adjusters.
Will do a Laser Alignment as soon as the snow and salt clear away.

Can you tell me more about the spring load adjusters? I am about to put the sway bar and links on. Thanks.

2013 Spyder ST Limited Black Current
stock (so far)

[Haze]

The spring load adjusters are collars that mount on the stock shock tube. I do my own mechanical work. Very easy to install.
I have my preload set at 2 revolutions. For heavy loaded moto-camping I will go to 3 revolutions.
See BajaRon's site on the SpyderLovers home page.
2013-2016 ST & RT Front Shock Spring Adjusters (Only for those Spyders WITHOUT Factory Front Shock Pre-loadAdjusters)
Coil Spring Adjusters allow you to quickly and easily adjust the amount of pre-load (stiffness) and ride height of your Spyder. This not only helps to control lean and dive but brings yourSpyder back to the proper ride height giving your more ground clearance which avoids hitting the front of your Spyder on speed bumps, driveway approaches,etc.
email Ron at fyredad@hotmail.com or PM Ron here atSpyderlovers.com

[Saluda]

I know but she really missed her previous bike and did not want to ride in the back.
That's just her.

Can understand that.

[900Dave]

We love our 13 ST Limited for two up riding, 95% of the time my wife is with me. Back rest a must, Sharon only rode once with out it and she would not ride again until it was installed. We have the OEM version. Baja Ron Sway bar & Links, Elka Stage 1 up front & stage 1 + R in the rear. Don't forget the seat!!! 400 mile days are hard on the OEM seat. There are lots of options here, I chose the Ultimate Seat and we both love it. I also have car tires all the way around, Federals up front and Kumho in the back.

Sharon also thinks the RT felt a little less spacious in the back than out ST.

Good luck what ever you decide.

[spacetiger]

Just curious, what is the recommended carrying Capacity for the various types of Spyders? Aside from the fact that we find the RT more cramped, I thought they are very closely related under the skin. Aside of course from the newer RT's with the 3 cylinder, but that is outside of our budget for now. For suspension though, particularly rear, how different are they? I was under the opinion that given that the ST was not carrying around as much baggage that it could therefore carry around more payload. Am I wrong on this? I also thought that the braking would be identical, but I have not looked at the spec's, maybe I should do that.

It took over $3,800 to make the wing feel right, and that included the heaviest springs possible from TRAXXION. When loaded with all gear we were pushing close to 1,700 pounds gross weight on the Wing. That is the main reason we ran dark, but that is a totally different issue.

bug's zedi,

The rear shock damping is good enough, it is the weak spring that lets the "shock" down. You do not need to spend big $'s unless you want to; just replace the spring. With a coil over sleeve and spring, you can get it sorted out for less than $200. Here is a post on what I did with my 2012 RT: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...on-%28shock%29

I will get around to doing my 2013 STL once warmer weather gets here.

Having had a 12 RT and now a 13 STL I would say the ST can be set up to carp more volume than the RT. The RT has fixed side and rear cases. The ST has fixed givi side cases and the oem rear case leaves a lot to be desired, but you do not have to use it. With some minor modification to the rack, you can mount a larger givi top case. You can also mount it a bit back to give you a little more room. You cannot do this with the RT. Here is my post on the givi top case I chose: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...the-ST-Limited

You can choose a different givi top case (larger than the one I chose).

Post back what you do.

Jerry