Trailering Front Attach

[JimboRTS]

My tie down point on the front of my trailer lines up with lower suspension arm next to shock.
Is this a safe place to secure spyder to front of trailer? Or can I strap it forward using the front shock? Saw on the form where someone put a lift ibolt on to the front shock bolt. I can't fine a lift ibolt local and don't have time to order one.

Jim

[Chupaca]

Don't trailer but that is not a good place to tie down. You would be better off soft strapping from through the rims. Check with BLUEKNIGHT911 who I think had some good tie down methods.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Don't trailer but that is not a good place to tie down. You would be better off soft strapping from through the rims. Check with BLUEKNIGHT911 who I think had some good tie down methods.

...Yes , I put a heavy duty RACHET STRAP over the tire ( in-line with tread ) and tighten it. Nothing gets scratched , bent etc........and the Spyder doesn't move ...............even if you have an accident .......Mike

[AmeriDeck]

The tire straps are super. Very secure.

Any time we secure a bike we use some sort of "happy straps" somewhere below the suspension, if at all possible. These are available at most auto supply or farm equipment store, like Rural King or Tractor supply.

Hook the strap through the 'eye' of your tie-down strap and then back over the s-hook. This eliminates the s-hook coming off if you hot a bump that causes slack in the strap.

[Bob Denman]

I put my straps around the lower A-arms up front, and it sure seems to secure the bike nicely...

[Bfromla]

Don't trailer but that is not a good place to tie down. You would be better off soft strapping from through the rims. Check with BLUEKNIGHT911 who I think had some good tie down methods.

& shows you in the manual. To go through rim (NOT the rear belt sprocket) just the rims to tie down. The eyebolt thread was an idea by someone & would be ez but NOT RIGHT!

[lwrydr]

My tie down point on the front of my trailer lines up with lower suspension arm next to shock.
Is this a safe place to secure spyder to front of trailer? Or can I strap it forward using the front shock? Saw on the form where someone put a lift ibolt on to the front shock bolt. I can't fine a lift ibolt local and don't have time to order one.

Jim

I am going to tie mine with a lift bold if i can find one......will be pulled forward and secured to a ring in the floor of my trailer....will secure the back using the trailer hitch...also will have the emergency brake on...and not pressing down an any part just stopping it from moving forward or backward....I also have wheel chaulks.(spelling)...I hope this will work since I am taking the to St. George in Sept....

[Deanna777]

...Yes , I put a heavy duty RACHET STRAP over the tire ( in-line with tread ) and tighten it. Nothing gets scratched , bent etc........and the Spyder doesn't move ...............even if you have an accident .......Mike

The heavy duty RACHET STRAP does work over the tire, ( in line with the tread) and underneath the spyder. I can vouch for that, it was my spyder ( 2012 RTS-SE5), that was tied down on the Snow mobile trailer, and it DID NOT MOVE. Deanna

[Bfromla]

Fyi found that thread
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ht=towing+ring here is picImageUploadedByTapatalk1450318239.294566.jpgagain Please DO NOT DO!


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[jaherbst]

I just drive mine onto the SuperClamps and attache two small straps to the side onto E-track--that's it!

Jack

[fencepost]

I changed out the lower front shock bolts with eye bolts. Have done this since 2010 with no issues and is quick and easy. Never understood why you would put straps through the wheel.

[Bob Denman]

Fyi found that thread
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ht=towing+ring here is picImageUploadedByTapatalk1450318239.294566.jpgagain Please DO NOT DO!

I went around the A-arms, because I thought that it'd be a stronger attachment point that the lower shock mount (Tubular arms; versus two tabs of steel...). I didn't wrap through the wheels, because I thought it best to not put that sort of potential shock-load on the wheel, and the wheel hub...
Your choice; your call...

[dlby]

Can't teach a new dog old tricks eh?

through the wheel works perfect
0 stress on machine

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T337A using Tapatalk

[Brentc]

One observation, I've seen many photos of $25,000 machines being held in place with a $5 strap that at best has a working load limit of 300 lbs. Whatever the method you choose to configure the straps at least get quality straps with an appropriate working load limit. I use three straps and each strap has a WLL of 1500 lbs. Tractor supply I believe, and they were about $15 each.

Cheap piece of mind I thought.

[Bob Denman]

If you've got a cheap bike; use cheap straps...
Our bikes deserve better...

[jaherbst]

Can't teach a new dog old tricks eh?

through the wheel works perfect
0 stress on machine

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-T337A using Tapatalk

I agree. Strapped through the wheels works great as long as you do not cross tie the front wheels. Keep straps fairly inline with the direction of the wheels for the front. Cross tie the rear wheel is fine and recommended to prevent movement to the side.

Jack

[ozarkryder]

Fyi found that thread
http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...ht=towing+ring here is picImageUploadedByTapatalk1450318239.294566.jpgagain Please DO NOT DO!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm setting up a 16 X 7" enclosed trailer and a 5th wheel toyhauler for the 2018 RTL and a 2013 Triumph Bonneville. The toyhauler garage will become a living area when parked, so rings and chocks etc. have to be flush with the floor or removable. I have chocks that fit the front RTL tires set up so I can remove them, but I still want to tie the front end into the chocks. I have been going through archive posts about tying
down a Spyder. The addition of lifting bolts to attach (quality) ratchet straps seems a good way to tie down the front end using the in-floor tie loops. There are a few warnings like the quite adamant one above, but no reasons with the possible exception that it's not the way it says in the mamual. Thoughs?

[pegasus1300]

I'm setting up a 16 X 7" enclosed trailer and a 5th wheel toyhauler for the 2018 RTL and a 2013 Triumph Bonneville. The toyhauler garage will become a living area when parked, so rings and chocks etc. have to be flush with the floor or removable. I have chocks that fit the front RTL tires set up so I can remove them, but I still want to tie the front end into the chocks. I have been going through archive posts about tying down a Spyder. The addition of lifting bolts to attach (quality) ratchet straps seems a good way to tie down the front end using the in-floor tie loops. There are a few warnings like the quite adamant one above, but no reasons with the possible exception that it's not the way it says in the mamual. Thoughs?

I have been using this method for 4 years, no suspension damage, no movement , steady ride works great.

[bushrat]

FWIW, I do some extensive trailering of my Spyder... over 4000/5000 miles each year. Mostly, this is the round trip from Ontario to Florida and back, plus a few other short hauls. Sometimes, it's trailering one of my boats, or a utility trailer job. I have hauled canoes across the continent on car rooftops; same issues apply.

I try to approach the task of fastening any load, not just from the perspective of "tie-ing it down" securely, but then stepping back, seriously looking at how I have done it, and asking myself: "what can go wrong?"; "what happens next if it does?"; "can things come apart?" "can I lessen the likely damage?" Am I guilty of over-thinking things? Maybe; but it could help prevent an expensive law suit, should an unwanted accident occur. Life has a habit of throwing us a curve ball when we least expect it. A trailering accident can easily expand to involve other drivers and nasty results played out in hospitals or courtrooms. It's not just a simple matter of loading, hauling, unloading, ryding. It's also a matter of what happens if it all comes apart.

So, it's not just what and how we tie down; it's whether we did it the best way, followed good advice, didn't take short-cuts, used good sense and the best equipment. Mike (BlueKnight911) uses a system favored by many leading haulers of priceless autos. Can't go too far wrong there. BRP advises straps through the wheel rims. Again, following instructions in your Spyder manual will certainly stand you in good stead should something occur that necessitates later warranty claims, or gets challenged in a law suit alleging that you were negligent. Of course, this means using good quality straps whatever your method. Cheap, sub-standard straps will likely lead to grief.

I'm very wary of putting heavy tie-down force on any part of the Spyder's steering arms or front shocks. While this might hold a Spyder in place for short and uneventful travel, in the case of a sudden, sharp stop at Interstate speed, a quick evasive maneuver or collision, the extreme inertial force created by the Spyder trying to break free of the trailer and launch itself into space will likely do more than just upset your alignment, and will be bad enough if it does only that!!

I, personally, use the "through the rims" method for all 3 wheels, independently. That's 3 quality straps of sufficient load-bearing capacity. Then, I go into 'overkill' mode; I use two more. This is where the earlier, above-mentioned "what can go wrong?" and "how can I prevent it?" analysis comes in. Straps can break; they can wear through from friction caused by road vibration at high-speed travel. I use an additional ratchet strap at the front. This is, I admit, placed around the 'A arms' and through my trailer frame (different place entirely from where front rims are tied), but loosely done up so as to place no pressure/force on the Spyder. It's only there to prevent the 'ultimate catastrophic separation' of Spyder and trailer from taking place, if necessary. It's a bit of defensive strategy, hopefully never needed, and requiring only a couple more minutes out of a 24-hour journey. Same for the rear. I place another extra ratchet strap through the Spyder's trailer hitch, loosely anchored at each side of the trailer's rear. The main rear tie down strap goes through the rim (avoiding the sprocket) to its own anchors on the rear frame.

In all, I have 5 attachment points/straps. Too many? Perhaps. But better to spend a few extra minutes over-securing my load than a few lost hours picking up bits of scrap metal and Spyder plastic along a highway, then talking to investigating police officers and/or explaining to a judge.

One last bit of advice: the job is not finished when you tie down your Spyder and are ready to jump in your vehicle and head down the road. Before you do that, make sure your trailer hitch coupling is tight, has a safety clip, and that your safety chains are secure. Do a 'circle check' and ensure that your running lights, brake lights and turn signals all function properly. Nothing is worse than coming up on an unlit trailer at night on a dark road, or one whose signal lights have failed because the lines are worn and shorted, or the plug has fallen out, or simply was left unconnected. If the driver behind you can't figure out your driving intentions, your Spyder and trailer might just become the 'crumple zone'. Check your tire pressures, all around. After you've started off and driven for 20 minutes, pull over and re-check you tie-downs for snugness. Loads have a tendency to shift, and straps will loosen. Check all straps early and often. Circle check at every pit stop. It takes but a minute or two, but could save you a lifetime of agony.

Now, having given my sermon, have I ever had problems? ever had anything happen? Hell, yes!! I've had straps wear through and break - friction!!! I've had straps mysteriously become undone mid-journey; ever so glad I used that extra, 'overkill' back-up. I've had tires spring slow leaks. Even had both trailer tires begin to suffer tread separation last year while doing Interstate speeds. The memory of that still shakes me; I had looked both tires over before starting, but not closely enough; their life expectancy obviously was less than I had thought. So much can go wrong in spite of best efforts. I have to keep reminding myself to "take the time", do it right and double check. Also, grease your trailer axle bearings regularly; beats being stranded miles from nowhere with a wheel seized up unable to roll.

Get your load there safely and in one piece. Trailer right, ryde safe, have fun!!

[Big F]

I agree with all of those that suggest strapping thru the rims. I've put 1000's of trailering miles on my last 3 Spyders by strapping thru the rims and NEVER an issue..
BIG F

[Revalden]

I've got one more thing to add to the check list. Put a big ass socket/wrench on the trailer BALL before hitching up the trailer. MAKE SURE IT'S FREEKIN' TIGHT. Many, many moons ago we were moving from Calif to Oregon driving a 64 Ford Galaxy Wagon pulling a U-Haul covered trailer. Just as night falls the generator, not alternator, goes out. So, driving on battery power only I find an auto parts store but its closed, so we sleep in the car until store open the next morning. I buy new gen slap it on, go in to give them the old one. Coming out of store, ready to leave, I step on trailer tongue and it bounces. I look under and the ball bolt was still there but only by one thread. Could've been a disaster for us. God looks after me, and I thank Him every day for watching out for my dumb ass.

[bushrat]

I've got one more thing to add to the check list. Put a big ass socket/wrench on the trailer BALL before hitching up the trailer. MAKE SURE IT'S FREEKIN' TIGHT. Many, many moons ago we were moving from Calif to Oregon driving a 64 Ford Galaxy Wagon pulling a U-Haul covered trailer. Just as night falls the generator, not alternator, goes out. So, driving on battery power only I find an auto parts store but its closed, so we sleep in the car until store open the next morning. I buy new gen slap it on, go in to give them the old one. Coming out of store, ready to leave, I step on trailer tongue and it bounces. I look under and the ball bolt was still there but only by one thread. Could've been a disaster for us. God looks after me, and I thank Him every day for watching out for my dumb ass.

Revalden, hate to admit/recall it, but I'm guilty of that one too - not ensuring that the nut & bolt on the ball on my draw bar was drawn up tight. In my case, the nut dropped off the bolt, the ball popped out of the draw bar (still locked in the jaw of the coupler), the trailer began to sway, and I was only saved by the safety chains. Thankfully, I was only doing about 20 mph on a city street, near home and the trailer was empty. An hour earlier, I had been 40 highway miles away, dropping off my Spyder for service; that nut began working itself off just after I unloaded the Spyder. Scary to think that the last time I had used the trailer just previous to that day was my 1500 mile trip north on I-75. You just never know when bad things are gonna try to jump up and bite ya in the butt. The Spyder and I dodged a bullet that day. I put the draw bar in a bench vise and torqued the nut double tight with a large pipe wrench, after also adding a bunch of loctite.

Thanks for the "add" to the check list; very, very important!!!

[Joel The Biker]

The tire straps are super. Very secure.

Any time we secure a bike we use some sort of "happy straps" somewhere below the suspension, if at all possible. These are available at most auto supply or farm equipment store, like Rural King or Tractor supply.

Hook the strap through the 'eye' of your tie-down strap and then back over the s-hook. This eliminates the s-hook coming off if you hot a bump that causes slack in the strap.

Dont ever do this! It almost guarantees the strap will break. If you want to ensure the hook does not come off, they sell straps with a safety clasp. Never tie a knot in your straps!

[Joel The Biker]

I use a special 2 foot tie-down strap that is choked around the lower front control arms. Ratchet straps are then attached to the straps, crisscrossed to the opposite sides. This emsures the spyder cant move side to side or rearward. Another strap is also attached to rear corner of trailer, around rear tire, then to opposite rear corner of trailer. This also ensures the spyder cant move side to side or forward.

[wilpir]

I used the eye bolt method cross country..never moved an inch worked great! No problems with suspension