'm almost 100% confident that between these awesome forum insights and some troubleshooting my turn signal problem/light problem = a new LH switch housing/harness install on my 2011 RTS. Has anyone done this job themselves? The new housing is about $400, and the labor estimates I've read about on here range from 2-4 hours. I'm a fairly solid wrench turner and more worried the dealer will mess up other things or mods I've done if I let them at it. Gotta beleive the biggest issue is potential having to unwrap a crap load wire harnesses to find where the factory plugs hook to cluster and who knows what and where else, as there are three factory connectors on the end of the housing wire run.
If only I'd been blessed (just kidding) for Finless to have this problem. Then I'd have another awesome one of his videos to follow. Which reminds me, love his Cali style wrenching in bare feet.
Appreciate in in advance any insights or help. May take my first shot at giving back to this awesome place (video wise) if I end up taking this on.
It's pretty easy to get the grip off. See my Tri-axis install video part 2 and there is a segment for removing them.
That's the easy part.
Yes the harness goes all the way into the bike and plugs in at two connectors called MSL2 and MSL3 on the left side just over the oil tank.
What I do not know is if you have to remove the entire fairing to fish the harness down there. My bet is you do have to remove the entire fairing as I don't think there will be enough "gap" to fish that connector through. But I might be wrong on that and hopefully I am as it is a big job.
Again my Tri-axis install videos show you how to do all that which will get you to the point of being able to remove the left grip harness.
Do you have a 2011 service manual?
The manual does not give you all the procedures for this but will show you where the harness and connectors are.
If you like, I can scan the Tri-Axis handlebar install instructions which shows some of this on paper.
Bob
Last edited by finless; 11-22-2015 at 10:28 AM.
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
It's pretty easy to get the grip off. See my Tri-axis install video part 2 and there is a segment for removing them.
That's the easy part.
Yes the harness goes all the way into the bike and plugs in at two connectors called MSL2 and MSL3 on the left side just over the oil tank.
What I do not know is if you have to remove the entire fairing to fish the harness down there. My bet is you do have to remove the entire fairing as I don't think there will be enough "gap" to fish that connector through. But I might be wrong on that and hopefully I am as it is a big job.
Again my Tri-axis install videos show you how to do all that which will get you to the point of being able to remove the left grip harness.
Do you have a 2011 service manual?
The manual does not give you all the procedures for this but will show you where the harness and connectors are.
If you like, I can scan the Tri-Axis handlebar install instructions which shows some of this on paper.
Bob
Bob,
As always you are such a great resource and inspiration for the Spyder community and now me in particulars. Thank you. I'll check out that video. I do have the 2011 service manual but a copy of they Tri-axis install instructions would be awesome if you think they too would be useful.
I also included the the full symptoms of the problem, in a follow-up post, in case I've potentially mis-identified it. I Want to be 100% (ok no such thing as 100%), but as confident as possible before I tear into this repair.
'm almost 100% confident that between these awesome forum insights and some troubleshooting my turn signal problem/light problem = a new LH switch housing/harness install on my 2011 RTS. Has anyone done this job themselves? The new housing is about $400, and the labor estimates I've read about on here range from 2-4 hours. I'm a fairly solid wrench turner and more worried the dealer will mess up other things or mods I've done if I let them at it. Gotta beleive the biggest issue is potential having to unwrap a crap load wire harnesses to find where the factory plugs hook to cluster and who knows what and where else, as there are three factory connectors on the end of the housing wire run.
If only I'd been blessed (just kidding) for Finless to have this problem. Then I'd have another awesome one of his videos to follow. Which reminds me, love his Cali style wrenching in bare feet.
Appreciate in in advance any insights or help. May take my first shot at giving back to this awesome place (video wise) if I end up taking this on.
Thanks, Jon
I should included more detail so here goes:
I started having having left turn switch not turn on the left turn signal lights normally on a long trip a couple of weeks ago. It would take multiple attempts. Right side works just fine. Then the left turn signal started coming on when I press the switch in (normally the cancel function). Now it's getting harder and harder to get the left turn signal to come on at all. Now pretty much only comes on when you press the switch straight in. Or it will come on when I manually stop the right side. Then yesterday, when I did get it to come on, all the left side lights (I've added several LEDs tied into turn signal) started doing the rapid flash drill. The right side, is still working fine. I checked all the lights using the emergency switch and both sides blink at the correct rate. So, I know it's not a resister gone bad on the left side causeing the rapid blink. Based on the problems I'm having with the switch itself and what I've researched on here of others with similar issue, all signs seem to point to the switch being bad which equals switch LH switch assembly replacement surgery !
I'm certainly open to to other ideas or troubleshooting if any has got better/different perspective on what the problem could be. Thanks in advance.
First thing to try is go get some electronics cleaner spray (use to be called tuner cleaner).
It's made to clean switch contacts and things like that.
It does not harm wiring, plastic, etc. Spray it into the slot of the switch and work the switch left and right.
It may just be dirt build up over time.
If that doesn't work, then it maybe a bad switch and yes you have to replace the left grip.
Here is the Tri-axis install instructions that I used in my video.
2011 RT-S SM5 - Black
Bought June 2013 with 450 miles. 27K on 8-1-2017.
Farkles - DIY Trunk Break Light, HMT Break Light, DIY Mirror Turn Signal Lights, DIY Bluetooth Dongle, DIY iPod Setup, DIY Alarm System Install, Show Chrome front fender / rear saddle bag lights, 4th break light around the trunk, Vented Windshield, Baja Ron Sway Bar, DIY GPS setup, Smooth Spyder, BRP Chrome Mirrors, Adjustable deflectors, Triaxis handlebars, NVB Pegs, Bad Boy Airhorn... More to come
Only one thread on the same topic is necessary and is less confusing.
........and too bad the switch isn't for an SE , because that switch is only $ 220.49.............Which seems very odd to me because the switch for the SE is a lot more complicated than the one for the manual - imho .......go figure .. Mike
........and too bad the switch isn't for an SE , because that switch is only $ 220.49.............Which seems very odd to me because the switch for the SE is a lot more complicated than the one for the manual - imho .......go figure .. Mike
The good news is they've upgraded the switch from the original. How many times have we complained about this problem? Hopefully this upgrade will work for longer than a few thousand miles like the original switches.
710002742 ($433.99) replaces 710002612 for the SM-5's.
710002741 ($244.99) replaces 710002611 for the SE-5's.
I started having having left turn switch not turn on the left turn signal lights normally on a long trip a couple of weeks ago. It would take multiple attempts. Right side works just fine. Then the left turn signal started coming on when I press the switch in (normally the cancel function). Now it's getting harder and harder to get the left turn signal to come on at all. Now pretty much only comes on when you press the switch straight in. Or it will come on when I manually stop the right side. Then yesterday, when I did get it to come on, all the left side lights (I've added several LEDs tied into turn signal) started doing the rapid flash drill. The right side, is still working fine. I checked all the lights using the emergency switch and both sides blink at the correct rate. So, I know it's not a resister gone bad on the left side causeing the rapid blink. Based on the problems I'm having with the switch itself and what I've researched on here of others with similar issue, all signs seem to point to the switch being bad which equals switch LH switch assembly replacement surgery !
I'm certainly open to to other ideas or troubleshooting if any has got better/different perspective on what the problem could be. Thanks in advance.
Take a look at the chart below. It's for the 2013 RT but I think it's basically the same for the 2011 RT. To me, what you are describing doesn't jibe with the switch functions. All the switch functions in that chart are for circuits that feed into the processor board in the MSL. Let's call the turn signal connections R, L, and Gnd. As you can see when you press the switch in both R to Gnd and L to Gnd connections are made. As I see it the only way the switch would cause the left signal to come on as you describe it, the R to Gnd connection isn't being made when you press the switch in for cancel and the L to Gnd is being made. When you push the switch to the right you make a R to Gnd connection. When you push it left you don't make a L to Gnd connection. But why would pushing the button in not make the R to Gnd connection when pushing it to the right does? And why does pushing the button in make the L to Gnd connection but pushing it to the left does not?
Keep in mind the turn signal switch is not connected to the turn signal lamp circuits. It is connected only to the MSL processor board. The processor sends a digital signal over the CAN BUS to the cluster. The cluster then operates the left and right turn signal circuits. Either the MSL processor is not sending the correct signal to the cluster, or the cluster board is messed up. Now, if the MSL sent a goofy signal to the cluster maybe that caused the cluster to flash the left signal rapidly. I'm inclined to think one of three things is happening. First, the switch has failed in a really weird way causing the MSL processor to get some really goofy signals thus causing it to send out no or bad CAN BUS signals, or second, the MSL processor is failing and simply sending wrong or no signals to the cluster, or three, the cluster is failing. Since two of the three possibilities are the MSL, and it's cheaper to replace than the cluster, let's hope it's the MSL. But the symptoms tend to make me think it's the cluster. The Spyder clusters have had very few problems so that would point against it being a cluster problem.
Do this for a test. Press in the Mode, Set, and Turn signal buttons simultaneously with the engine running. Do you get a blank screen or any codes showing? If the procedure for checking fault codes fails then for sure you've got a bad MSL. If the code screen comes up correctly that is an indication, to me anyway, that the MSL is working. If that's the case I suggest you go to your dealer and have them connect it to BUDS. I don't know what all can actually be read with BUDS but there is an option to read data, and the cluster is one of the units it will read data from. I'm guessing there is a whole separate manual for BUDS with a lot more info than the regular service manual has. If no codes show, but the screen looks correct, there is one sure way to generate a code. Raise the rear tire off the ground, put it in gear and run it up to 20 or 30 mph for a several seconds. You'll get a code because the front tires aren't turning. Then check to see if the 3 button push brings it up. Be sure to do that before turning the ignition off.
If you end up buying an MSL I'd look first online to a motorcycle salvage yard. That's one of the items that most likely won't be clobbered in most wrecks so you should be able to find a good used one. Good luck chasing this down.
2014 Copper RTS
Tri-Axis bars, CB, BajaRon sway bar & shock adjusters, SpyderPop's Bumpskid, NBV peg brackets, LED headlights and modulator, Wolo trumpet air horns, trailer hitch, custom trailer harness, high mount turn signals, Custom Dynamics brake light, LED turn signal lights on mirrors, LED strip light for a dash light, garage door opener, LED lights in frunk, trunk, and saddlebags, RAM mounts and cradles for tablet (for GPS) and phone (for music), and Smooth Spyder belt tensioner.
Take a look at the chart below. It's for the 2013 RT but I think it's basically the same for the 2011 RT. To me, what you are describing doesn't jibe with the switch functions. All the switch functions in that chart are for circuits that feed into the processor board in the MSL. Let's call the turn signal connections R, L, and Gnd. As you can see when you press the switch in both R to Gnd and L to Gnd connections are made. As I see it the only way the switch would cause the left signal to come on as you describe it, the R to Gnd connection isn't being made when you press the switch in for cancel and the L to Gnd is being made. When you push the switch to the right you make a R to Gnd connection. When you push it left you don't make a L to Gnd connection. But why would pushing the button in not make the R to Gnd connection when pushing it to the right does? And why does pushing the button in make the L to Gnd connection but pushing it to the left does not?
Keep in mind the turn signal switch is not connected to the turn signal lamp circuits. It is connected only to the MSL processor board. The processor sends a digital signal over the CAN BUS to the cluster. The cluster then operates the left and right turn signal circuits. Either the MSL processor is not sending the correct signal to the cluster, or the cluster board is messed up. Now, if the MSL sent a goofy signal to the cluster maybe that caused the cluster to flash the left signal rapidly. I'm inclined to think one of three things is happening. First, the switch has failed in a really weird way causing the MSL processor to get some really goofy signals thus causing it to send out no or bad CAN BUS signals, or second, the MSL processor is failing and simply sending wrong or no signals to the cluster, or three, the cluster is failing. Since two of the three possibilities are the MSL, and it's cheaper to replace than the cluster, let's hope it's the MSL. But the symptoms tend to make me think it's the cluster. The Spyder clusters have had very few problems so that would point against it being a cluster problem.
Do this for a test. Press in the Mode, Set, and Turn signal buttons simultaneously with the engine running. Do you get a blank screen or any codes showing? If the procedure for checking fault codes fails then for sure you've got a bad MSL. If the code screen comes up correctly that is an indication, to me anyway, that the MSL is working. If that's the case I suggest you go to your dealer and have them connect it to BUDS. I don't know what all can actually be read with BUDS but there is an option to read data, and the cluster is one of the units it will read data from. I'm guessing there is a whole separate manual for BUDS with a lot more info than the regular service manual has. If no codes show, but the screen looks correct, there is one sure way to generate a code. Raise the rear tire off the ground, put it in gear and run it up to 20 or 30 mph for a several seconds. You'll get a code because the front tires aren't turning. Then check to see if the 3 button push brings it up. Be sure to do that before turning the ignition off.
If you end up buying an MSL I'd look first online to a motorcycle salvage yard. That's one of the items that most likely won't be clobbered in most wrecks so you should be able to find a good used one. Good luck chasing this down.
Tremendous insights and additional trouble shooting...THANK YOU for taking the time to provide such a thoughtful and in-depth response. ! However, I think I read somewhere that code checking switch sequence only works on 2013 and newer models.I'll give it a shot though.
First thing to try is go get some electronics cleaner spray (use to be called tuner cleaner).
It's made to clean switch contacts and things like that.
It does not harm wiring, plastic, etc. Spray it into the slot of the switch and work the switch left and right.
It may just be dirt build up over time.
If that doesn't work, then it maybe a bad switch and yes you have to replace the left grip.
Here is the Tri-axis install instructions that I used in my video.
thank you Bob. Ugggg that's going to be a serious amount of work to replace that switch housing. But, much better shot at success with you videos to help. Thanks again.
The good news is they've upgraded the switch from the original. How many times have we complained about this problem? Hopefully this upgrade will work for longer than a few thousand miles like the original switches.
710002742 ($433.99) replaces 710002612 for the SM-5's.
710002741 ($244.99) replaces 710002611 for the SE-5's.
Yep, same numbers I found. Outrageous. I'll check MC salvage yard too. Thanks!
Tremendous insights and additional trouble shooting...THANK YOU for taking the time to provide such a thoughtful and in-depth response. ! However, I think I read somewhere that code checking switch sequence only works on 2013 and newer models.I'll give it a shot though.
Tried this and the code screen did come up, but was blank. So for the check it appears the Left MFS is working. Also, got some electrical contact cleaner per Finless suggestion and gonna give that a shot too. We'll see.
Hi I dunno if anyone can help me I have to replace my housing lh on my rts 2012, I have the service manual and i know there are 3 connectors I kind of found where msl 2 connect and msl3 connector kind of is but there is 3 connectors I can't find where the third one goes, I have not fully took the spyder apart just left hand panel and found there are load of connections above the air box I am assuming two go in there somewhere just can't figure out where third one goes
Sorry, but asking the same or similar things repeatedly in different old threads is probably not helping you too much (see post #5 in this thread! ) - just give your already existing thread a chance to be read & considered, and there's a good chance that if anyone DOES know anything that'll help, they'll answer in there.
But do be aware it might not happen immediately, since not everyone comes to the Forum every day; some only visit once a week or so, others less frequently, some more often. You still have to give them a chance to see it (most will, since most use the 'New Posts' option to see EVERYTHING that's been posted since they last visited ) and then to work out how best to reply - and that's not helped if you ask the same or similar things in a number of different threads across the boards.
So hang in there, bump your original thread maybe once every 5-7 days, and see what responses you get. If you learn more/achieve more in the meantime, post it in that thread, please don't start yet another discussion or thread on it elsewhere, that'll only make it less likely you'll ever get all the whole solution &/or an explanation of what to do in one place, and it'll also make it waaay harder for anyone else looking for the same info to track it down later on too.
Last edited by Peter Aawen; 05-17-2021 at 09:45 PM.
Anyone replaced LH switch housing on RTS?
Has anyone done this job themselves? The new housing is about $400, and the labor estimates I've read about on here range from 2-4 hours. I'm a fairly solid wrench turner and more worried the dealer will mess up other things or mods I've done if I let them at it. Gotta beleive the biggest issue is potential having to unwrap a crap load wire harnesses to find where the factory plugs hook to cluster and who knows what and where else, as there are three factory connectors on the end of the housing wire run.
Which reminds me, love his Cali style wrenching in bare feet.
Originally Posted by finless
!
........and too bad the switch isn't for an SE , because that switch is only $ 220.49.............Which seems very odd to me because the switch for the SE is a lot more complicated than the one for the manual - imho .......go figure .. Mike 
Sorry, but asking the same or similar things repeatedly in different old threads is probably not helping you too much (see post #5 in this thread! 
) - just give your already existing thread a chance to be read & considered, and there's a good chance that if anyone DOES know anything that'll help, they'll answer in there. 
) and then to work out how best to reply - and that's not helped if you ask the same or similar things in a number of different threads across the boards. 
