Changing Transmission Filter Cover on Semi-Automatic 1330

[spydermanstever]

I was just wondering if anyone here with a 2014 or 2015 semi automatic Spyder has changed the transmission oil filter cover on their machine themselves. Did you take the machine to the dealer to have BUDS cycle the valves and bleed the air out of the system like the shop manual states should be done or did you just let it bleed itself without BUDS? Any problems if you did the latter?
The reason I ask is because I am going to switch over from the BRP semi synthetic 5w40 oil to Amsoil synthetic 10w40 motorcycle oil and I wanted to get all the old oil out before I do this changeover or maybe should I just do an oil change without changing the transmission filter and allow the Amsoil oil to mix with the BRP oil held in the transmission filter?

[Chupaca]

Being that the tranny filter on the semi autos are changed at 28,000 miles not many have done it. I for one have not seen anyone posting about doing this themselves. Hopefully someone has and it would be nice to have some feed back...

[Highwayman2013]

Someone on here did it without BUDS and I don't think there was a problem.

[BLUEKNIGHT911]

Yes it has been done .....and NO BUDs were needed. I can't remember who, but I did read it here......I was very happy to get this news.......PS BAJARON sells the filter at a better price than the dealer ......Mike

[Jim&Teresa]

Les (PW2013STL) changed his before the Alaska trip and all went fine without BUDS.
You can read this thread for more info: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...mission+filter

I did my transmission filter on my 2014 RT Limited at 25,858 miles before putting it away this fall. I did ride it a few hundred miles after the oil/filter and trans filter change (before winter storage @ 26,467 miles) and saw no performance issues with shifting, clutching, etc. I think Les put on about 8,000 plus miles after doing his without any issues.

Hope this helps....BTW I bought my transmission filter from BajaRon - you can save a few bucks on it from Ron vs. your dealer. Ron's trans filter did not come with instructions, but it's very simple. JayBros posted the instructions, here they are (found them for you). Note that there is a sequence to torque the bolts - follow the instructions so you torque them in the proper sequence and to the proper torque spec:



Good luck. I just took my time and torqued the bolts back to spec - all went well. No oil leaks and runs just fine.

My next "challenge" will be installing new spark plugs before riding in the spring - that should be a treat! LOL

Here's a few pics from my install on 10-20-15:

[cptjam]

Les (PW2013STL) changed his before the Alaska trip and all went fine without BUDS.
You can read this thread for more info: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...mission+filter

I did my transmission filter on my 2014 RT Limited at 25,858 miles before putting it away this fall. I did ride it a few hundred miles after the oil/filter and trans filter change (before winter storage @ 26,467 miles) and saw no performance issues with shifting, clutching, etc. I think Les put on about 8,000 plus miles after doing his without any issues.

Hope this helps....BTW I bought my transmission filter from BajaRon - you can save a few bucks on it from Ron vs. your dealer. Ron's trans filter did not come with instructions, but it's very simple. JayBros posted the instructions, here they are (found them for you):



Good luck. I just took my time and torqued the bolts back to spec - all went well. No oil leaks and runs just fine.

My next "challenge" will be installing new spark plugs before riding in the spring - that should be a treat! LOL

Slow, but not too bad - we did Ann's at 50K. It is easier to remove the fairing completely than work in the confined space. Good winter project! Joe

[Jim&Teresa]

Just added photos of the transmission filter install to my earlier post - fyi - see post #5 if interested!

[BajaRon]

As already stated, yes, there are several who have done this themselves without the aid of BUDS. So far, no one has encountered any issues.

You do not need to completely flush the old oil out when switching to Amsoil. Amsoil mixes just fine with any oil product that meets the criteria for use in the Spyder. I certainly would not change the trans filter early just to get a bit more oil out of the system. The amount remaining is insignificant.

[trikermutha]

I went from BRP to amsoil with no issues..Ran much quieter IMO

[Major spyder]

Will temp my first oil change tomorrow ...and trans filter included I'm at 25+k. And switching to AMSOIL....

[PW2013STL]

The hard part was removing all the Tupperware on the right side. After that the filter/cover is only 5 bolts. No Buds was needed. Since I was heading to Alaska I did mine at 21,000 miles. Next change will be at 50,000 and I have 42,000 now so I will be doing another one this year.

[Roadster Renovations]

[cbredneck]

Good thibg to remember. keeps lots of rags handy. filter does not drain completely, spills a lot. BUDS not needed

[AeroPilot]

Thanks to all the posts regarding the 1330 HCM Filter change and to the great links and videos included in this thread, I just finished the wifes 15 RT-S service at 31,300 miles (a little late) but still quicker than waiting on an appt at the dealer and much cheaper thanks to BajaRon and his filters/brakes/gasket kits etc. I called Ron last week for the filters and while we were talking I was reminded that the rear brake pads were getting thin as well, so I had Ron throw a complete set of sintered pads in the box while he was at it. The box was sitting on the doorstep Monday. Thanks Ron.

Over the weekend, I also got another look at the rear tire and although it only had 18,800 miles on the Kumho, it was starting to show some bare spots, so while I was at it and the wife was soaked from her commute home in the rain last eve, I suggested she drive the car today, and I would get after the HCM change and see what else I could get done while it was parked.

Pulled the tupperware, drained all oil, and pulled the old HCM filter off last evening, and cleaned and installed the new HCM filter last evening while it was cool and put 5 qts oil back in and called it good til this morning. No skinned nuckles and all was good. This morning I noticed how much oil was laying in the sub frame area, and next time I'll sacrifice a towel or box of rags like Doc and CBredneck mentioned. After rolling it outside I gave it a quick underbody spray and rinse cleaning and noticed how much oil was flushed out of who know where.

Then since I had the bike for the day, I pulled the rear wheel and removed the rotor to avoid any damage when I took the wheel and my stored Kumho down to the tire shop to get it mounted. They had it mounted and ready in less than an hour and after picking up some groceries on the way home, I was back and ready to install the new brake pads and wheel with new tire. I had done a quick brush and spray of the brake caliper, and checked the rear air bag for any debris while things were clear, so the pad install with anti-squeal lube on the backings was easy. The toughest part was getting the axle back in (and even after five times practice) still is the biggest workout for me. Maybe I'll get the hang of it one day. Bearings and spacers looked good, so just a quick clean and light lube, and everything was back in place and time for a nap til later this afternoon. Finished checking torque, and reinstall the Tupperware, and a road check, and the bike is ready for the morning commute. Probably 6-8 hours of leasurely work time, but I know the condition of every part I touched and looked at an now the bike is roadworthy again while saving a few bucks.... thanks to SpyderLovers posters for making this possible and enjoyable!!

[Roadster Renovations]

Thanks to all the posts regarding the 1330 HCM Filter change and to the great links and videos included in this thread, I just finished the wifes 15 RT-S service at 31,300 miles (a little late) but still quicker than waiting on an appt at the dealer and much cheaper thanks to BajaRon and his filters/brakes/gasket kits etc. I called Ron last week for the filters and while we were talking I was reminded that the rear brake pads were getting thin as well, so I had Ron throw a complete set of sintered pads in the box while he was at it. The box was sitting on the doorstep Monday. Thanks Ron.

Over the weekend, I also got another look at the rear tire and although it only had 18,800 miles on the Kumho, it was starting to show some bare spots, so while I was at it and the wife was soaked from her commute home in the rain last eve, I suggested she drive the car today, and I would get after the HCM change and see what else I could get done while it was parked.

Pulled the tupperware, drained all oil, and pulled the old HCM filter off last evening, and cleaned and installed the new HCM filter last evening while it was cool and put 5 qts oil back in and called it good til this morning. No skinned nuckles and all was good. This morning I noticed how much oil was laying in the sub frame area, and next time I'll sacrifice a towel or box of rags like Doc and CBredneck mentioned. After rolling it outside I gave it a quick underbody spray and rinse cleaning and noticed how much oil was flushed out of who know where.

Then since I had the bike for the day, I pulled the rear wheel and removed the rotor to avoid any damage when I took the wheel and my stored Kumho down to the tire shop to get it mounted. They had it mounted and ready in less than an hour and after picking up some groceries on the way home, I was back and ready to install the new brake pads and wheel with new tire. I had done a quick brush and spray of the brake caliper, and checked the rear air bag for any debris while things were clear, so the pad install with anti-squeal lube on the backings was easy. The toughest part was getting the axle back in (and even after five times practice) still is the biggest workout for me. Maybe I'll get the hang of it one day. Bearings and spacers looked good, so just a quick clean and light lube, and everything was back in place and time for a nap til later this afternoon. Finished checking torque, and reinstall the Tupperware, and a road check, and the bike is ready for the morning commute. Probably 6-8 hours of leasurely work time, but I know the condition of every part I touched and looked at an now the bike is roadworthy again while saving a few bucks.... thanks to SpyderLovers posters for making this possible and enjoyable!!

That is awesome! Only thing I can see is you only used 5 qts of oil. I added about 10 oz to compensate for what came out with the HCM filter. I was lucky on the oil spatter. I pulled the bottom plastic so it had no where to collect.

[AeroPilot]

Over the next couple of days and short rides, I'll be checking the oil with it up to temp, etc. Thanks for the reminder!! Wish I had your lift, Doc, but otherwise the collection of tools needed is getting winnowed out to several T30 bits and drivers, M5 & M6 bit and M10 wrench and the pushpin puller and of course the 36 mm tools and torque wrench when I tackle the rear wheel. That and rags and patience is all you need..

[Roadster Renovations]

Over the next couple of days and short rides, I'll be checking the oil with it up to temp, etc. Thanks for the reminder!! Wish I had your lift, Doc, but otherwise the collection of tools needed is getting winnowed out to several T30 bits and drivers, M5 & M6 bit and M10 wrench and the pushpin puller and of course the 36 mm tools and torque wrench when I tackle the rear wheel. That and rags and patience is all you need..

Lift works well for many things, but some things are better doing on the floor.
I need to get one of those push pin tools. Keep forgetting....
Make sure you post how much you eventually added above the 5 qts.

[BamaJohn]

Les (PW2013STL) changed his before the Alaska trip and all went fine without BUDS.
You can read this thread for more info: http://www.spyderlovers.com/forums/s...mission+filter

I did my transmission filter on my 2014 RT Limited at 25,858 miles before putting it away this fall. I did ride it a few hundred miles after the oil/filter and trans filter change (before winter storage @ 26,467 miles) and saw no performance issues with shifting, clutching, etc. I think Les put on about 8,000 plus miles after doing his without any issues.

Hope this helps....BTW I bought my transmission filter from BajaRon - you can save a few bucks on it from Ron vs. your dealer. Ron's trans filter did not come with instructions, but it's very simple. JayBros posted the instructions, here they are (found them for you). Note that there is a sequence to torque the bolts - follow the instructions so you torque them in the proper sequence and to the proper torque spec:



Good luck. I just took my time and torqued the bolts back to spec - all went well. No oil leaks and runs just fine.

My next "challenge" will be installing new spark plugs before riding in the spring - that should be a treat! LOL

Here's a few pics from my install on 10-20-15:

As Ron White says: Now, that right there is good information to have!
Thanks for posting it.
jb